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By options I ment: 1. 4ft^3 with 8" port, 2. 5ft^3 with 8" port, 3. 5ft^3 with 10" port. Sorry if that was a little confusing. Lol. With the depth... Does it matter how much of the port is inside the box and how much is sticking out of the box?? Other than the net area taken up by the amount of space the port displaces??

I knew this day would come but haven't been preparing for it. My battery has passed away. It has been through a lot being the first battery I've had since I got into car audio. I need something new. I am running a JL JX360 2 channel for my mids and highs along with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D for my BL 15. Its somewhere around a total of 1500-1800 wrms. (When the voltage is up, which hasn't been in a while) I have a Stinger 180 amp alternator installed as well. The dimensions I have to work with are 11"w 8"d 8"h. I was looking at an XS power D3400 or maybe a Kinetic KHC1800. Would these be enough to run as the only battery in the car?? (which is a better choice between the two??) Or should I also pick up a smaller version in addition to run in the trunk to keep the electrical very strong. Any knowledge helps greatly.

When I was making my box it ended up being to big and I had to cut a few inches off the front. Left me with a box tuned at 37hz. I was worried that would be to high but it really isn't that bad for daily use. Listen to it for a while and change it up later if you want something different. I did learn that the SubSonic needs to be set just a few hz under your box tuning or it could hurt your sub. Example: My ss is set at 35hz for the 37hz tuning. Just be careful, want to keep the subs happy.

Thanks everybody.

Hey everybody. I went on Madisound and found some Aura 16ohm 3" full range speakers for $1. I've never done an array before but thought this would be a great opportunity to try it out. I've got two different arrays going for a surround sound. The amp Im using to power the new speakers is out of a Logitech X-530. I pulled the speaker boxes apart and took out the speakers to also use with the Aura speakers. The original speakers out of the Logitech system are 8ohm each and are wired in parallel giving a final ohm load of 4ohm. I don't know what the amp puts out in rms or anything but I've hooked up a JL 12" sub to the sub channel and it makes quite a good amount of bass on a 4ohm load. Now with the arrays I have wired them in pairs and then into quads and so on, to get a 4ohm load. When I hook them up to the amp they sound awesome but then when I starts to turn the volume up to 80-85% volume the entire channel starts to cut out. My wiring is correct, I think... I assumed the speakers do not pull power they take power and the amp would only push out what it is capable of?? I don't know what is causing the cutting out at high volume it sounds great right up to that point. Here are some pictures. Any help would be much appreciated. The tall tower uses only the Aura speakers. The small tower uses both the Aura and Logitech speakers. The schematic. I dont know if maybe there are to many speakers but I would really like to get this figured out because I like the way it sounds. Until the cutting out starts.

I am trying to save as much cash as possible and it makes sense that I don't need XS batteries for my application. I really appreciate all your help everybody. I'm going to look into a DieHard 34/78 under the hood. See how that performs and then add a really big battery in the back if I upgrade my amps since size is not as limited.

The dimensions I took were maxed out, so nothing bigger could go under the hood. There is a Sears near me and I would be able to trade in my old battery on a new "DieHard Platinum Automotive Battery Group Size 34/78DT W/ Price with Exchange" for around $200. To start off would this battery be a good choice up front, then add a small battery in back if there is still voltage drop?? (There is so much weight in the back I don't want to add a big battery back there) The DieHard brand keeps coming up so I searched it. The amp hours and CCA dont look as high as the XS Power batteries??

PM sent.

@ M5: I thought about that... Today I put together some more speakers and will try running a channel on an 8ohm load to see if that helps with the cutting out. I will also do some tests with single arrays instead of double to see how it changes the sound. Thanks!! @ 95Honda: I found a couple hole saws that fit right around the surround of each speaker and then took a round-over bit to the front side to smooth everything up.

They sound good but get a little harsh on high frequencies. But will work awesome in the setting I am using them for.

Its going in my game room and will only be aimed at one person. Lol. But I will for are try a single stack versus a side by side stack. I will also look into a filter. To help the speakers perform better. Thanks for the input!! It doesn't explain the cut outs at high volume though... Maybe the amp is just finally giving up after all the modifications I've done to it?? I have no clue.

Hi, are these still being made??

"Bass, I love you" by Bassotronics doesnt have any swearing and will definatly make some bass. Lol.

I'm guessing you're running the SPR-60Cs? I see a lot of good reviews on those. That's definitely in the budget range...... I'll have to check out a set at one of the shops. Thanks for the input! You would be gussing correct!! Chek them out and see what you think.

I have been running a pair of Alpine Type R 6.5 components up front for about 6 months and love them. They sound great and can decently keep up with an FI BL 15 on 85wrms. (The Type R 6x9's help in the back as well but that sub is pushing 1200wrms) They are rated for 110wrms though and I know for sure they could take that with no problems. Something to look into.

I am curious about this too. This would be a really great sub for a little project I have going on.

I am currently running an FI BL 15 with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D at 1 ohm. The box I made got all messed up when it didnt fit in my trunk but it is 3.5^3 tuned at 37 hz. The BL still slams like no other sub I have ever heard before. Due to the tuning of the box I dont know how the lows sound under 35 hz but I am in no way dissapointed in my purchase of the BL at all. And I know that in the right box the BL is an unbeleivable subwoofer.

Bump for good seller.

I went outside this morning to work on my alternator that has been giving me problems and when the garage door opened up the was a fedex guy digging through his truck. Since he was on the other side of the road I just didn't think anything of it. When he dug out a box, struggled to pick it up and then started walking to my house I freaked out. Without any shipping info or warning at all my BL 15 came in the mail today!!!!!!!!!!! I am order #1624 ordered on April 2nd and got my sub in perfect condition today April 26th. Don't even have a box made... Thought it would take a lot longer to get it here.

Nice to see there is another car audio enthusiast in Colorado. Box looks good dude.

On youtube there are videos of people running an insane amount of subs in their vehicles for spl applications. Like 15 15's or 6 18's and other crazy numbers of subs. How do they have enough space?? An FI BL 15 for example is recommended to need 3-5 cubic feet of space plus port area. If you run 15 of them together thats 45-75 cubic feet of space plus port area... Do SUV's and vans really have that much space?? Or does the fact that there are so many cones moving so much air make them work the way they do without having the recomended amount of space?? Im just curious if anybody knows how so many subs can be run together and do what they do in the space they are put in.

What does inverting the subwoofer do for performance?? Is this completely cosmetic or does it do something differently than normally mounting the sub?? Also, How can you mount a sub backwards if the trim piece only fits on one way?? Is there a different trim piece needed to do this type of mounting?? Thanks everybody.

FI is an amazing company. I would not let shipping stories scare me away from a great product. My BL arrived in perfect condition.

Alright. I can see Im in way over my head. Lol. I just wanted to see if I could make something different than an L ported box but I need some more experience first... I don't know what a standard vented 4th order is. And I choose the PWX 10's because well I have them sitting here not being used at the moment. It looks like there is way more to this than I originally thought...

Hi guys. I will have some time to hang out next week and wanted to use up all my extra MDF. I wanted to attempt to make a 4th order bandpass to put a couple PWX 10's in there and hook it up to my xbox. I know they are not subwoofers but they are my test speakers. If this box turns out good I will refine my design for a couple of real subs. This is what I have come up with. Each side chamber is 1 ft^3 sealed and the center chamber is 2 ft^3 tuned at 33hz. I have no clue how a 4th order works but this is what I have come up with. If you could explain to me how a 4th order works that might help me design this and also let me know if there is anything I can change to make my design better. Thanks guys.