audiofanaticz

Guy is still waiting for his subs. Chris Lun seems as shady as another dealer unfortunitly. This handled yet Dj? It should not take 2 months if he sent the wrong subs to sundown and the wrong subs to the customer that traded him 2 dc 12s for 2 sa 12s. Slap a return shipping label on the box and have it shipped off from Sundown directly to the customer bypassing shipping it back to Chris. Thats if the story is true...

There is an outrageous number of forums now days. Too many in my opinion. So I really been wondering what every ones favorite forums are that they visit on a regular basis? I think some of the answers could be interesting to see! Im going to post this on a few sites in the off topic forums, so If theres a site that I dont visit and you do go ahead and post this up! This maybe a way for some to find out other great sites, meet new friends, and broaden your knowledge of this hobby. Lets keep this topic clean!! Copy/paste my questions in your post when replying. No one post crap like "I cant stand that guys site because he is a douche". No singling out individual users of said sites if you dont like them. This is not a method to bash sites or members of sites you do not like. I dont want to see people quoting someone elses response and saying "x2", or any replies that have nothing to do with this thread. Website name/link: Your likes: Your dislikes: What keeps you coming back: What does the site offer you the user: How can the site improve:

DC Power 270XP alternators are truly the best around! Even the SP line is very good at idle compared to the other manufactures alternators. It seems people think that their bargin brand alternator is good enough and works flawlessly or whatever the case maybe be, but once they see one in person or even try something new and go the DC route, you will not want any other companies name under your hood. You end up getting instantly hooked! Ive been round and round with many other known companies producing alternators priced on the low end to the high end, but I never had a single issue with my alt kit or even my first single sp alternator that originally got me hooked. I found my alt shop for the rest of my audio career needs! When I hear the word alternator, I automatically associate DC Power Engineering with it. Keep up the great work guys!

Somewhat true, but not fully. Theres a simple reason why to use a minimum of 8awg wire for the negative. The internal wiring in the amp that goes from the pc board to the speaker output connections runs a 8awg wire. Going from 8awg wire in the pcboard to the speaker connectors, then running 10 or 12awg from speaker connector to speaker connector, then the 8awg from the speaker connector to the pc board is going to cause a little resistance. resistance is never good in any case unless your actually wanting resistance. But Im pretty sure any manufacture that produces a strappable amp will tell you to use a minimum of 8awg wire for strapping. I know companys like rockford say to use 8awg and to keep the negitive bridge wire under 15 or 16 inches in length. Running 2 8awg wires from both negative outputs is a little excessive, but it will not hurt you any and may just help out in the end. After all a good wiring job is the backbone to a good stereo system. I noticed the whole deal with the stinger and monster cable rca thing, Id really like to know why some amplifiers are not compatible. I have some custom made cables that do not like to work with my amps. Is it something the way the cables are made?

I dont know, I can run active on my 2004 alpine..... and it has a built in processor, time alignment, 60x4 (requires a 10 gauge positive wire). But that is a sexy looking deck for sure!!! I love the diecasted zink finish (maybe part to due with me being a diecaster). I also like the heavy volume knob. I know them pioneers got some good looking but cheap knobs, and it drives me crazy on my primeir 680 (i think). All in all, that looks like a killer deck and wouldnt mind one at all (still waiting to get another screen tho). I always use to want the clarion that had the little screen in it. I think it was drz 9875 or something like that and was a bit older then the clarion autopc unit. I just remember scrolling stars on the screen

My name is Brian, Im from Wisconsin. Ive browsed this site a bit here and there, and only registered for the chatroom, but now it seems like it died off since you had to become a member to use it. I only comment on things I know for sure, I hate to be wrong, but when I am wrong I man up and admit it Ive been messing with audio systems home/car since I was 12 years old. I learned everything I know from a retired competitior that had many national records. I like expensive gear, usally imported stuff that everyone on the block does not have. Then when people ask what I am running I just simply say JENSEN because after I took all the time to tell them what it is, they will have this dumb look on their face, and then will say something like my 12 inch sony xplode is louder then yours.... I am currently running a Digital Designs 9518 sub, with the old 2002 "D" triple stacket motor, red composite cone, and a 8 inch carbon fiber dustcap, dual 1.5 ohm coils. I have a matching motor sitting at dd right now being rebuilt into another matching sub. Then I will be walling off my cadillac with two 18s, ran by 2 amps strapped at a extremly low ohm load and 16+ volts.... So yea. Peace out yall!

ditto Buy some reducers? How so? if 8 gauge is completly unecessary, wouldnt owning a fully loaded fi btl 12 be completly unecessary? Going overkill on your wires will never hurt your stereo, but running with tiny 16-12 gauge will. It will raise resistance, and not allow every drip of power to get to your speakers. Maybe I will gain a few DB's if I rewire my sub with 16 gauge speaker wire? Underkill ftw?

Also just read that you are going for spl? if thats the case, why are you tuning in the low 30s? Id shoot for at least 40hz, but I never messed with FI personally, but with a proper box you should get a decently flat response. My box and my 18 can play the lows like no joke and Im tuned for 40hz in a 6cubed box after sub/port displacement (hitting 148.1 usac in the kick on a t10001bd). Keep in mind, this is a 4 door sedan. I know someone that ran 2 18 inch fi btls walled in a focus, with 2 zx2500.1s and was doing well in bassrace

A very unbiased answer, I like seeing that! The two 15s deffenitly have an advantage with more cone area. Also, what are the rms ratings of the MAWs? (dont think I ever heard of them)? But if you only got 1200rms to play with it is not much at all. So if the rms of them subs are only 600wrms each, then it maybe a tad louder, but if them maws are above 600rms you wont be even giving them their recomended wattage to get them moving properly, so the more cone area over the 18 wont be a benifit. Id almost try having a good box built for the 18 inch bl, and maybe spend the money you where going to use on the new subs for a new amp, considering that the BL will laugh at 2000+ rms.