papermaker

ported is tricky.. its honestly takes a-lot of experience to really find the ideal enclosure for the car/woofer.. take it how you want to but this is my recommendation for the woofers ported which BTW will sound every-bit as good as sealed.. for the 12, 2 cubes tuned to 30 offers a flat response and much lower group delay.. the trick here is having the ideal port area and placement of the port/woofers.. 25in^2 or port area is adequate for 1200 RMS per 12... this alignment limits output but its flat and offers low group delay AKA its going to sound great and still be louder than sealed.. if you wanted more of a daily driver Id advise 2.25 tuned to 36hz with 25in^2 of port area.. or you could do 2 tuned to 34 with 40in^2 of port area.. the larger port allow its to peak harder at tuning but it unloads much faster under tuning.. for the 15 3.75 tuned to 30 with 50in^2 for SQ for a daily beater 4.25 tuned to 36 with 50in^2 of port area or 4 tuned to 34 with 60in^2 of port area same thing with the unloading..

in a sealed box no more than 1200 is needed, ported they will handle a couple hundred more..

Before M5 jumps on you, SQ and SPL are COMPLETELY COMPLETELY COMPLETELY DIFFERENT! ""SQL"" does not exist. These two terms are never to be used in the same sentence and never worded together. the term SQ is often miss perceived.. i could argue that your easily capable of having SQ @ 150DB.. SQ means simply this inaudible distortion and good sound staging.. with the proper install there is NOTHING saying you cannot have very low distortion @ 140DB.. i've been doing low distortion high output systems for years its all in the install and using the proper equipment for the app....

cooling is extremely important when you design a high output woofer.. seems like its a good balance of cost, cooling and still getting enough flux density.. i wouldn't expect a qes of .25 but its really not needed with the proper design.. Id say that its going to be in-between the old DP and the warden..

i rode around for about 1hr today, seems it migh hold up.. should i just send it to chris when i return home? if i could make 2 suggestions.. pots that click, for more accurate x over selections, and the bottom cover extended to avoid the problem dr johnson had. other than that awesome amps..

im going to look at it again.. see whats up... like i sai it got hot on the drive and would cut out go cool again and worked fine.. what you recommend??

noted, i rewired it and put the tweets to 3 4 and so far so good.. fact is though it shouldn't completly kill 3 if the pot touches the chassie..

if I did i would pay for it, no doubt. but something like this tends to be ethier from bac connection and or resistor not sure on the circurity on the amp but it seems as the power supply has a small short in it noticablly in hte 3rd channel.. i haven't does enought electronics to beable to identify the problem without a schematic and help without any experence.. for now im going to ground the amps chassie so it does kill my highs, but i really want to fix it, and IMO a new board is probably the best option..

no sir, i don't even have my woofers in yet, John @ AV is sending it out very soon thought, so i want to have my highs.. its under the seat, no possible way to short it out or anything to touch it... been installing stuff for 10 years...

i really can send it back to DB-r to fix it(got it throught him as a referb), is there some way i can get a new board for them amp and just replace the guts? if not ill probably buy a 450/4 and sell the sundown when i get it fixed... which i hate to do because its a freaking nice amp vesides those few details... unless someone can help me trouble shooot the board... something tells me the output are going bad because its staring to sound abit fuzzy, and the amp just does sound as good/loud.. SUCKS BALLS... help..

i took a 20 hour trip friday/sat and about 3 hours in the amp started cutting out on channel 3 ONLY but i noticed the other channels sounded a bit distorted as well... i get to ohio(from louisiana) and trouble shoot it, checked everything, opened the board up NOTHING visual.. put it vack in and played it for about 30 min and it still occures.. so i go to lower the gains a bit just enought to keep it from getting hot and cutting out/sounding bad.. i touch the gain(pot) and it completely shorts channel 3 out. i mean completely cuts off when i touch the pot to the chassie of hte amp... figuring its got a short somewhere between hte gain and the output i ground the amp frame itself and i get a good signal back!!! WTF?? it sems as the pots are also very inaccurate.. as in i have to turn hte subsonic 7/8 up to get a decent xover point it seem to be only on he subsonic though, nothing else is over sensivitive... i freaking hate to send it back to texas to get it fixed...

t/s parameters for the 15??

i would grab a pair of DD 2512As If you plan to upgrade your amp and IF you can get 4 cubes with 65in^2 of port area... i recommend tuning to 35hz on the other hand i would grab a pair of the new AQ 2.5 12s with a very similar box as recommended eariler for the DDs.. the 2512s get a bit lower and louder with the added power but the 2.5s are very efficient and sound prettty good too boot.. great budget woofer...

when you have 50 amps of current passing thought 10 ga it will get very hot and melt... if your putting 4kw to the sub at 1 ohm that means you have identical ampount of amperage to voltage about 64 amps... not all wire is made the same... espically the leads are really important in high power applications... its silly not to puut larger 8ga leads... in normal 70 degree C wire 10 is rated for 30 amps, 90 degree(thhn etc) is 35amps. that is free air btw... the leads on the woofers need to be able to handle at least the amprage of its max rating... also remember that lower impedance loads present high amperage per watt... for instance at a true 2 ohm load with 6kw(pretty common now in days) you have 6000 watts with 120 volts again(prety common voltage in high power amps) 6kw/120volts=50amps that is 20 amps more than the rating of the wire which would easily burn the leads up in a few seconds... also don't forget that your connections play a role is resistance and ampacity of the circuit.... IE copper to copper is the best besides silver...