jack

Ok, thanks, that's it, moisture resistance and no other considerations, it'll just pop in to a car with no problem, that's good info. Thanks again

What is the difference between marine audio and car audio? Will the typical marine audio amplifier work in a car? Are their wny special considerations? Wiring? Air Circulation? Voltage? Thanks for the input.

Not only the original parts, but cruise the site and read about the processes that they follow for repairing whatever is needed. The methods that they use are proper. Read here. http://www.db-r.com/repairs/index.html A good part installed all wrong may work for a bit, but when installed properly, well you know...

Can a 100.4 run bridged at 2 ohms?

I am not qualified to agree,argue or otherwise. I just wanted to throw my impression out there for further clarification and I might learn something. I thought that the Alty was a fixed part of the equation, what I thought was that the alty generates power based on the rpms which it is spinning, period. And that at 2200 rpms whether the lights and stereo are on or off, the same exact power is being generated and is pushed toward the battery, feeding the car on the way, and the battery just receives power as needed. You said "While driving with the radio, fan, lights, phone charger, ect, the battery is using much more current and that is where the alternator is putting out most of its power." Don't those things get their power from the alty unless the alty is not providing any power? And the battery doesn't "use" current, does it? I mean the power from the alty is made available to the car before the battery can charge from it anyway, right? look at the order of the connections. So is the alty generating more power at the same rpms or is it simply that more of it's generated power is being drawn? To paraphrase, I thought that the altys output was a constant based on rpms and that the battery's purposes were to A -store power (you know, to start the car and more) and B -deliver power in the event that the alty is wither spinning slow not at all and C it is the last thing to receive power and it only draws power that is forced on it, after the car's needs are met, up to it's capacity as it. Or have I been misinformed? The alty does vary it's own output based on a need that is senses and reacts to So, when I thought that the battery assists the alty by storing and delivering power in the even that the alty is unable to or it's output is not enough I was wrong and it's actually visa versa, the battery delivers power and alty only "kicks in" to assist and re-charge the battery to deliver power as needed? Any electrical engineers in the house who can explain. I just want to know if I have had a long term misconception or partially or not at all? I also thought that when the lights dim it was because the alty's supply is not quite enough to power everything that is connected to it and the amp draws the most and takes more than it's fair share and so the lights have to deal with less power than they need partially because the battery can't unload its stored power fast enough. is that wrong also?

I know that this one has been tabled for a while, but this weekend I am trying to sell a few subs and a couple of amps to get the money for one of these amps, with no luck so far, so it's back on the front of my mind. The budget here is even more critical because I need to add at least a nice power cell to my setup to run one of these properly so that's a good bit of money after you add misc. materials and 25 pounds of shipping. This thread will soon turn into a "WTB" but if anyone knows of the current deal of the century on one of these or another one I haven't listed please let me know! The spreadsheet is less than complete and not organized properly but whatever. (and you might have to zoom in) Let's hear some input, Do I have the order about right? Two number threes because it's a tossup. Any more suggestions or recommendations? If it doesn't work so well, try this link. http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee269/b...s/iamps1234.jpg thanks!

Thanks man, that told me a lot. What do you know about US Amps/ RE being carried at Costco? That's big news for US Amps right, Good job guys! Here's the first offering, http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?...amp;topnav=#Top What will Costco carry next? Merlins?!? Does anyone know?

I see two different md2s' One says "Merlin MD.2" and has all of the connections at the bottom of the amp on the long side The other says "MD-2D" and has all of the connections on the right end of the amp (this is the one on the usamps.com site durrently) The power ratings are identical, but there is no way that with all of the radical differences they are te same, one has to be better My questions are these; What are the differences (is one like a 5 year old model and the other current?) And of course, which one has more power! (do they exceed rated power or just meet it? at 2 ohms specifically), Does anyone have specifics or no? And what else about them should one know? Thanks for your time and assistance!

wire from a spool... v0 gauge would it be better to replace, or just add the the factory wires Add to, leave what's there in place, maybe even clean them up a bit

Let me ask you guys this question, what if you ran a fat power wire to a dist block, from there; wire A goes directly from the d block 1 to a reversed d block (2) and wire B goes from the 1st d block to a 4 farad cap and then to d block 2 and then a single power wire runs from d block 2 to the amp. Then for the ground you do basically the same thing in reverse? This way the cap is available to discharge but not in the way of straight bat/alty power when it's empty. Do you think that will work better?

Ahhh, sounds interesting, let me check it out, anyone else know this amps pros and cons?

Sonic, that's a good point, I looked at the manual on Lanzar.com to find a copywright date to see if it's part of the old or the new ans couldn't find anything, nor anything about a release date of the opti line whatsoever, so I don't know if it's pre or post Pyramid. What's your opinion of those specs? (of course assuming they are true) Haves, you had me then you lost me ith the AB class. The amp on my Camry couldn't handle that (I have already done the big three) alson, ideally I will find something good to 1 or half ohm for a bit of versitility. Thanks guys, keep the ideas flowing!

haves, I can't find much on the BP1200.1 I don't think that they make it anymore??? Maybe it was replaced with the JBL GTO1201.1??? What I have found it looks like it's only stable to 2 ohms? maybe? Do you know what the replacement was for sure? or anyone? and is it still a tank or what? Sonic, The Lanzar (OPTI not vibe) wound up on my list by a couple of recommendations and some research. Highlights, Stable to 1/2 ohm, 180 amp fuse rating, well look below, SPECS Mono Block Subwoofer Amplifier 0.5 Ohm Stable MOSFET Power Supply PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulated) System Double Sided Epoxy PCB Circuit Board Gold Plated RCA Inputs Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connections Thermal, Overload & Short Protection Remote Bass Control Soft Turn On/Off 700 Watts RMS Power into 4 Ohms 1100 Watts RMS Power into 2 Ohms 1600 Watts RMS Power into 1.3 Ohms 2000 Watts Max Power into .5 Ohms 2600 Watts Bridge Max Power Into 2 Ohms THD @ 1Watt/4 Ohm: 0.1% S/N Ratio: 90dB Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150Hz (+/-3dB) Damping Factor @ 20Hz/4 Ohms: 400 Low Pass Filter: 50Hz-150Hz, 24dB/Octave Variable Subsonic Filter: 15Hz-40Hz, 24dB/Octave Variable Bass Boost: 0 to 18dB Variable Phase Control: 0 to 180 Input Sensitivity: 200mV ~ 8V Input Impedance: 10k Ohm Line Output Impedance: 100 Ohm Fuse Rating: 30A x 6 Dimensions: 10.08'' (W) x 2.12'' (H) x 19.1'' (L) And I've heard that it does all that it says it will. At this point it's definitely a leader in my mind. For the 300 price tag that is. Compared to say the 160 amp rated mtxta81001 Thunder Super Amplifier Prizm EFX: Selectable Lighting Color, or Pusate to Beat Xtant Technologies Cooling: Thermal-Regulated, Turbo-Charged Intercooler RMS Minimum Power Rating: 500 Watts x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms 1000 Watts x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms 1500 Watts x 1 Channel @ 1 Ohm Wired EBC Remote Subwoofer Bass Level Control Included CEA-2006 Compliant Strappable with Another TA81001 Power and Protection LEDs Parametric Bass Control: -12 - +12 dB Bass Control Variable Bass Control Frequency: 30 - 80 Hz Variable Bass Control Q: 0.5 - 4.0 Onboard Crossover: LP (40 - 200 Hz), Sub (20 - 50 Hz) Phase Control: 0

Man that looks incredible! Great job!

that's a good question, in the search to narrow down the list I was thinking of future versitility/options and I figured that a 2 ohm limitation would be as good of a place an any to start, if you have other criteria that you think would help narrow things down, let's consider them, or if you think that something else should have been the first cutting question, I'm all ears. I appreciate any input!