QuestionMan

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KBT-30N I have their other set that only holds one 1/0, and another if you want to use a ring terminal. It's easy to use, and look pretty good too haha

Yes, i've used a table saw before, before anyone asks lol. But never for a box with mdf. The table saws i've used have always been pretty big, like shop table saws. I recently borrowed a 10" table saw from a buddy who builds boxes with it, but it's small as hell. It's really small, especially for the box i'm making (the biggest sides are 39.5"x21"). I even put tables on two sides, to help support the wood as it goes along the blade. I used a circular saw to make the mdf as small as possible for the saw, cutting the 4x8 in (about) half. Everytime i take a piece across, it kicksback pretty bad. Now i know i'm not the first person to use a small table saw for a big project, and i'm not looking for a scolding from anyone. If anyone could help me out a little bit and tell me what they did in something like this, it'd help a lot. Thanks for reading and (maybe ) replying

I did search 'box carpet',and you'd be amazed (sarcasm) how much those two words are used on this forum. lol, i went through about 15 pages and found some good info on where to get it,but i still have one question. A lot of people said they got their carpet from a hobby store,and i'm just curious what kind of carpet to look for when i get there. I could be wrong, but i don't see them having "sub enclosure carpet", so i really just need a name to call it... If i can't find it at a hobby store, i guess partsexpress.com is the next choice ($5.85/yd... much better than crutchfield's $30 for 3yds.)

Just make sure it doesn't turn out to be 369 lbs, 23" tall, and mad mikes new favorite toy. ... nah, scott wouldn't do that

On some of the formulas it asks for the ports diameter, so i put it in just in case. Thanks!

Could someone check and make sure this is right for me?: 39.5 x 21x 20.25 box (outer dimensions, i'm using .75" mdf) 4.5 x 19.5 port (10.57 in. diameter, if you need it) 24 inch port length i got just a little below 33 hz. I just don't want to find out it's wrong after i make the cuts and all. Thanks a lot

i haven't done anything with audio in months, and i'm wanting to make a new box.. just making sure everythings right, as i didn't know much to begin with lol. To get the vent length, i'm using: . Is that right? it seems like theres a ton of equations for the same thing, and i dont know which one to trust. The other question is that with Vb, am i using the volume of the box, including the port, or do i subtract the port from the volume? The second seems hard to do if what i'm trying to do is to find out how much volume the port is going to take up... Thanks for reading, and maybe answering :bigclap:

Well for the Vb, i had 7^3 ft. as the net volume in both of them, and my dimensions on the box are around (i have some wiggle room to make it to 7cubes after port) 40x21x19

assuming i was supposed to make a net volume and add the port on when i'm done, i went ahead and used that formula, and it said i needed 25 inches of vent length for 32 hz. I used: 10.57 inch diameter (4.5x19.5 slot) 1 port 7 cubic feet 32 hz end correction of .723 Here's the link Just to see, i went to JLs Tutorial, and for end correction, I used the 25 inches from the other result, and added 2.25 because the width of the port was 4.5 (27.25 for total Vb). I used the same numbers for everything else, and the tuning came out to be 31 hz. Did i do the end correction right here? 1 hz isn't much. i'd just like to know... I know it's long but i'm really trying to learn this, so bear with me if you can haha

Just curious, but is the area right in front of the subs still considered the port? how'd you take that into account when you calculated the tuning? Awesome scores by the way

I'd really like to learn (not ask here whenever i have a question) how the amp draws current, and where it draws from (how the alternator comes in to play and such). A buddy was asking me if he should get 2 bls, and i told him his electrical couldn't handle it if he were to power them as much as he wanted to. I'm pretty confident what i told him was right, but i'd really like to know more, it just bugs me to tell him that and not know why myself lol. Anyone know of a good link or two so i can learn about this?

Really haven't been on here much, so i'm even more out of the loop than i was. I planned on waiting till next spring (after cross country and wrestling) to do more with my audio, but i can't wait. To start off, i really don't know a whole lot about speakers or tweeters, but i want something with good quality and good price, and from the looks of it, the Mach5 MLI-65 is great for the money. I'd also need some tweeters, and when i searched, most people recommended SEAs tweeters to compliment the mli. Does that sound good, what model of the tweeters, and are there any other suggestions? I was thinking a 100x2 amp for the mli's (sundown, maybe), and just power the tweets from my HU, but then i don't have a good way to crossover them. So what should i do there? Sorry for the ignorance in advance. lol. Please keep in mind that i don't need an all out SQ setup, and i don't need top of the line. What i do need is something that can keep up and sound well enough with what i have (18 bl and saz1500). Thanks for reading.

Well i installed it mid june(?), everything has worked great. Whenever i took people, they said my truck smells weird. I never really thought about it, but last weekend i drove a group to the football game (they chose the guy with an 11 mpg truck to drive 1.5 hours there, wtf lol) and took the box out for the ride up. When i put it back in a couple days later, i noticed the smell. I guess i just got used to it, and never noticed. I know it's not my sub, because it can smell funny when i get in it for the first time in a couple days, when nothing has been playing. I really can't describe it, it's a mixture of things. Wood would definitly be one smell, but could it be silicone? I wouldn't think so after so long, but i'd really like to figure out what it is. Sorry for the long post, thanks for reading oh and air freshners don't work. lol

Sounds good to me, but if i were to do that, isn't that a little much power for a tweet? Thanks for the help.. and i know it won't be exact, but you think this will be out around november?

I wondered about that, but i figured carpeting wouldn't help the wood on the inside (not fiberglassed), which the sub moved that air outside the box constantly. I've been telling myself i was going to carpet since i got it in, just never got around lol. guess it's time.

I haven't logged on here for awhile, i've been kind of busy, but anyways. I may have gotten it off of one of the topics here, the song 'No Help' by Trae. I like it... the only thing i could call it is a chill song. It's just relaxing, with a good beat to it. Does anybody have their own songs like that, they don't have to be rap/r&b/hiphop, just a song you would call chill. lol.

Wow, didn't check for a fewdays, thanks for all the replies. May take me awhile but i'll download 'em haha

No.. it was great. lol, but i can laugh just by looking at a picture of stewie.

Hey, i stay true to my name <<<. lol, but why does a sub seem louder with a window(s) down, than when they're up? I don't know if it is on a meter, or just to the ear, but shouldn't it be that if the waves are focused into a smaller space, it'd be louder? with a window down the air goes everywhere.. just don't understand. Also, if it really is louder on a meter to have windows down, then why do the true bassheads, modified vehicles spend thousands on concreting a vehicle and making sure every crevice is sealed, when i roll down a window and it's louder. Is it just the class they're in, and the rule is windows up? Or does it actually make it louder? Just kinda wondering as i rolled down the windows on my way home to get it louder, so i thought i'd ask, lol. Thanks for reading, Mitch

haha just got done watching it on youtube (i search for new vids every night, lol), then i saw this. Nice man, i think you scared the gfs cousin haha

HT= home theater

Yeah i think in another sticky it was 3200 or so at 11 volts Edit: found it. 65.8 volts 49.2 Amps 1.33 ohm calculated rise from 0.6 ohm DCR ** 3237 Watts 14.4 volts rest dropping to 10.75 volts beastly, if you ask me

Thanks to Sean we did some power testing on the SAZ-3000D yesterday. Power testing was done on two RE MT 15" woofers, dual 1 ohm coils (0.7 ohm DCR) with a rise to around 0.87 ohms at our test frequency. Power Output at Maximum Volume before Protection: 67.4 volts 77.1 amps 5196 watts Power supply voltage was 16.5 volts at rest dropping to around 14.5 volts. So consider this a 14.5 volt output rating. Our clamp meter ran out of steam at 400 amps so we measured efficiency at lower levels: 3294 watts @ 84% efficiency (252 amps draw) 3938 watts @ 81% efficiency (316 amps draw) 4424 watts @ 74% efficiency (392 amps draw) We didn't have an electrical setup to run 12.8 volt testing available at this time. ........................................................................... That's from the sticky at the top of sundownz forum... if you're staying at 14.4 full tilt, i'm guessing this would fall in your category

So while i have some people with a little knowledge on the subject, how does a plane not move with all that force being exerted behind it? Ex: mythbusters, when they make a truck drive from behind a 747(?), they have the thrust on, but the plane remains still, and even throws a bus 100 yards. Are brakes the only thing holding it from moving? i've always wondered.. lol

If youre trying to find reasons not to do it, shouldn't that tell you your answer? Your decision though