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hardballer7

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Everything posted by hardballer7

  1. hardballer7

    Electrically safe?

    dual 1's
  2. hardballer7

    15 Icon

    They are designed for SQ, but they can handle a good amount of abuse as well. We suggest a 1000wRMS amp for your ICON. I'm currently running a sundown 1500d to my 10D2, but of course the gains are set very conservately. If you would like to run that kink of power, just please know where your limits are. Other then that, enjoy. The subs should be in stock in Aug. We will be taking pre-orders on them at a small discount in the mean time. How would a SAZ-1500D be for 2 Icon 15's?
  3. hardballer7

    Best Options for Konaki Recone

    ^^x2. Playing music below your tuning frequency without a subsonic filter is what's making your subs bottom out. Either: a) Design a new box with a lower tuning frequency (best bet if you wanna continue to beat down low) or b) set your subsonic filter so you don't kill ur woofers
  4. hardballer7

    Going Active?

    I'm trying to learn more about setting up my mids/highs & I've been reading a lot of threads about "going active." I think I've got the gist of what it is and how to do it (kind of) but I'm trying to figure out what the benefit is. Is going active and using the HPF & LPF on the amp better than just using the passive x-over that comes with ur components? The only thing I can think of is maybe it's cheaper to buy a midrange and a set of tweets than buying a nice component set....Somebody wanna help me understand this a lil' better?
  5. hardballer7

    Going Active?

    holy crap....this is a little more involved than i thought. I thought I knew more about mobile audio than I actually do. Looks like I've got some studying to do if I want to see this one through. I'm finally up to par on my low frequency knowledge but it's time to step it up on 70hz+. Active is probably the best way for me to go since I'm gonna be using a lot of audio control stuff. I've got factory nav/steering wheel controls etc that i'm gonna keep and i'm not using an aftermarket head unit. unfortunately all the audiocontrol stuff i've been told that I'll need will run me over 1K....
  6. hardballer7

    loud subs?

    that's a good idea....i think i may try that I was just kidding...20Hz is the threshold of hearing & that's at about 70dB so I wouldn't want that system anyways
  7. hardballer7

    loud subs?

    that's a good idea....i think i may try that
  8. hardballer7

    Going Active?

    Ok...that's understandable. So how is going active different/better than just using passive x-overs/component speakers?
  9. hardballer7

    18" Fi Q

    Is a true 1500 watts too much for a single Fi Q 18" to handle with the BP option? I was trying to decide between going this route, or going with a dual 15" setup with a 2500watt amp...I'm leaning towards the 18 since it'll be cheaper and more electrically friendly. (vehicle is a dodge magnum)
  10. hardballer7

    18" Fi Q

    On that note, the amp is either gonna be Memphis MCD-M1500 or Kicker ZX1500.1. Both amps usually bench around 1700 or so (@14.4). Would that be enough for two 15" Q's?
  11. hardballer7

    Fi Q's (2 15's vs 1 18)

    For both options the box will be around 7.5 cubes after port & displacement. for the 15's tuning will be 32ish Hz and 28 Hz for the 18. For both options the amp will be Exile 2400.1. For 15's 2400 watts @ 1 ohm. For 18, 1600 watts at 2 ohms. For overall musicality/output, which would you rather have? .....oh yea, vehicle is a Dodge Magnum.
  12. hardballer7

    Fi Q 18 enclosure

    Why is the recommended tuning frequency for the Q 18 so low?
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