lithium
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Everything posted by lithium
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you would wire them like below. Your amp has 2 sets of input terminals but its just a 1 channel (mono) amp. So those terminals on the amp would be in parallel. I would just wire as shown below.
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ya. In the parking lot or on my balcony. Planning to rent a house next year if things go well at work.
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Started the door enclosures Saturday. I rolled the windows down and spaced out about 1/4 inch with some scrap materials prior to tapping. I also used some foil and petroleum jelly to get a easy release from the tape (not pictured). Also not pictured is an application of 1/8in closed cell foam (adhesive backed) applied to the door skin. Hopefully that will be enough to isolate the enclosure from the door. I did about 3 layers of fg before letting this cure overnight. I ran out of the good resin from USComposites and tried some cheap stuff from Ebay. Seems to be working ok but there are definitely some spots that need fixed before I start adding more layers (the horizontal portions under the arm rests were particularly difficult). Working on a vertical surface was tricky. I'll get the dremel out and fix some air pockets and hopefully it will come out fine.
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Thanks guys. The left pod would definitely be problematic in a sportier vehicle but not a Buick that drives <10 mins through some corn fields to work.
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The purpose of the dashmat is to absorb sound. The material properties, dimensions, and placement determine performance. It works exactly like throwing carpet on a wood floor to reduce echo.
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I didn't really do a good A to B comparison when I installed it so I can't say I hear any difference. I'll try to do a comparison in the future and maybe take some measurements (I have access to professional equipment at work that I could borrow for day). Theoretically I think the foam backing is too thin to do a whole lot. I like the look though!
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A pillars are finished. Haven't played with the tune yet as I'm trying to move on to the midbass enclosure now. Before (w/ door trim cut) after (trying to maximize enclosure volume) Deadened whats left of the trim panel.
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I just need to find a way to bolt these the A pillars so they dont kill me in a car crash. I hope to install them this week and start on the door enclosures soon after that.
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Been a while guys. I've made some progress despite the difficulties of working on things in my apartment. I think I got carried away with the size of these enclosures. These are my baffles, the ring is 3d printed petg. The white speaker mount is also 3d printed and will allow me to swap in other drivers easily. Starting the enclosures. Pretty standard stuff. I decide to build enclosure that sit on the dash rather then build off the A pillar. In retrospec I think it might have been better to put the 4 on the pillar and tweeter in the sail panel to cut down the size of these monsters. Next I aimed the speaker baffles the left side has to come out towards the driver quite a bit. I hope this doesn't kill imaging too badly. The pods where difficult to wrap, even with this spandex material I used. My solution to the creases in the fabric. After the first coat of resin on the spandex Test fit ya these look toooo big... Had to flock the enclosures in my kitchen... not the best idea
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sound quality mostly corresponds to the frequency response of the total system. Model the subwoofers in an enclosure that isn't particulaly peaky and use EQ to correct in situ. Make sure the midbass drivers can meet up the subwoofers (front stage is more important then subwoofers in SQ installs).
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did you build a solid baffle (speaker mounting ring)?
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is the 2cuft the gross or net after displacement. sundown recommends 1.5 cu ft for that subwoofer. I think you need to verify that the current setup is installed correctly before throwing money around. building new boxes to experiment with response would be a good idea.
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Generally you would want to try a few location and aiming directions before permanently mounting the tweeters. If you have limited mounting options or fabrication ability some of those options might not work out but its best to try. Try something like blue tack to temporarily mount the tweeters while you play around. I haven't played with these drivers in a vehicle yet so idk where to start with Xovers, I expect Aaron will chime in when he sees this thread.
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download winisd and model the two subwoofers in their optimal enclosure.
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I think you should go out and measure that box. We would need overall dimensions of the box, wood thickness, and dimensions of the port. Pictures would also help. We could model your driver in that box to see if its performing anywhere close to what it should be. Most people new to audio don't realize how much the enclosure determines performance and I doubt that your current enclosure is in any way compatible to your subwoofer.
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What are the specs of the current enclosure? The enclosure contributes the most to the frequency response and performance of the subwoofer
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Also try box location and aiming in the trunk. I've had the best results with sub aimed rear and box moved a few inches from the trunk lid.
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Ported box size difference at same tuning.
lithium replied to audiohz's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
Win isd is pretty simple program to learn. I would suggest you play around with it and see what the effect of box size and tuning is for yourself. Let us know if you need a link to a tutorial. -
Need advice for amp power to sub
lithium replied to Carlosss's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Don't bother setting gain with a DMM. Typically this method is too conservative. Play music and turn the gain up till you hear distortion. Another idea to try, move the subwoofer around in the vehicle. I've notice significant differences in output at the driver position by moving the enclosure closer or further away from the trunk lid, aiming, etc. -
splitting the rca into 2 inputs increased the output quite a bit. Haven't pushed the sls 8s past xmax at >40hz before so that was cool. I'm absolutely doing door enclosures after these A pillar are finished. I need this midbass without door rattles.
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doesn't seem as powerful as the dayton audio dsp which can also be programmed from a phone. I'd recommend buying the remote and bluetooth dongle so $200 all in. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dsp-408-4x8-dsp-digital-signal-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--230-500
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The NVX 4 channel in my picture is probably the only 4 channel from that batch (PPI, polk, etc using same design) that you can still get for a decent price (under $200). I guess the PPI 600.2 sold out while these polk 2 channels are getting sold off at a great price. Ultimately, I hope to simplify my amp rack in my next car. So this will cut down on space requirements quite a bit. Very little seat time with the new amps but I haven't notice a huge difference between the two so far. I doubled power so the headroom should be nice given the giant EQ cuts I'm using to correct the cabin mode on the left driver. I got a sweet sunburn yesterday while swapping amps so I wont get to the A pillar pods till next weekend. I might just try a Y cable just to see what happens. Pretty sure it wont make a difference but I'd like to know.
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right, I'm just wondering how the summation occurs internal to the amplifier when you bridge the channels. 1 rca > Y adapter > 2 inputs on a bridged 2 channel amp > summed internally 1 rca > plugged into 1 of the inputs on the amp > summed internally does either case result in a different output from the amp?
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sweet build dude!