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lithium last won the day on January 10

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About lithium

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  1. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Those mounts look sweet. thanks for the suggestion!
  2. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Attaching these suckers to the A pillar will be tough. I think I'll try to use some metal washers epoxy to reinforce the A pillar trim. I may end up attaching it the pillar itself.. not sure yet.
  3. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Quick update. I made a holder for a cheap laser pointer. The laser isn't pointed straight so in practice you have to rotate the laser pointer in the holder, this makes a circle on the object your aiming it at so you can estimate the center point. Not ideal but it works.
  4. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    I think I paid less than 300 on the cr-10 but I had to spend more to put in new fans and isolating/dampening mounts on the x and y motors. It was too loud to operate in my 1 bed room apt otherwise. I plan to print some of the parts for these pods in abs later this year. But I will likely have to make some modifications to the printer to print in abs. Most ppl build an enclosure around the printer to keep temps higher I believe. I went back and forth between the cr-10 and the prusa i3 mk2 when I was shopping for printers. Not quite sure what happened to the nd20. The dome is hard/brittle to the touch. Perhaps it was exposed to some chemical or light.. it slightly discolored as well
  5. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    One of my dayton ND20's has a damaged cone so I'll probably use these guys for now. The tweeter dome kind of dried up.... not sure if you can fix that.
  6. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Quick update. Started building the speaker/tweeter pods. Current internal volume available is about 56 in^3, with polyfill it would add a little bit more to that effectively. I could go larger if needed. You lose quite a bit of volume to wall thickness with the pvc pipe. The tweeter pods were designed in fusion 360 and printed on my CR-10.
  7. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    I can definitely add a tweeter. I got some little dayton nd20's lying around somewhere or the slightly larger Tang Band 25-1166SJ 1".
  8. So a car battery is wired to the ignition of the car. When you start a car or turn the key to the ON position it will turn on other components in the car (hvac, lights, etc). This is accomplished with relays. When a relay is switched on it sends 12v from the battery to the components wired to that relay (lights for example). If a car didn't do this then the battery would be drained because all the components in the car would be constantly powered on. So if you look at basic wiring diagram for a headunit you will see the 12V constant power from the battery and accessory power (switched power from the ignition). You can think of the accessory power as the remote IN to the headunit. The headunit will then create a remote out [sometimes called the antenna out, (some cars use this signal to raise the antenna)] which is wired to other audio devices in the car (amps, LOCs, DSP, etc). So these components are effectively passing through the accessory power from the car's ignition.
  9. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Unfortunately, both the inner and outer rocker panel rusted through so its good that I was able to add some of the structural integrity back. I made sure to cover any exposed metal with por15 and bed liner so it should hold up longer then I intend to keep the car.
  10. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Well I think its time to start updating this thread again. I took a bit of a break from car audio stuff over the last year or so. In Dec 2016 I was laid off from my job in Illinois and moved to Michigan. Two months later I was offered my position back at my previous job and decided to take it. I'm not a big fan of central IL but the work is considerably more interesting. In 2016-2017 I made a few undocumented upgrades to the car, I swapped out the two minidsp 2x4 units for a minidsp 6x8. Shame I didn't see that dayton audio DSP (perhaps it wasn't out then) but seems like a better deal. I also swapped out the two 2-channel amps that powered the tweeters and midrange drivers w/ a ppi900.4. A few months later I was jumping the car and blew the amp. Not exactly sure why it blew, it was purchased used but I suspect that I it blew because I keyed the car on, connected the battery jumper, and then started the car. Perhaps the voltage drop during the engine crank zapped it. Anyways, I replaced it with a nvx800.4 since you can not find the ppi amps anywhere (and I think I grabbed it from the ssa store, iirc). In 2017 I had to address some significant rust issues with the rocker panels that almost pushed me towards buying a new vehicle. I decided that "repairing" would be a better option as the cost to own a low mileage (2001 w/ 75k mi.) GM sedan is pretty cheap. I cut the rocker panels off below the door seam, separated the pinch weld, and attached a new rocker panel with 3m panel bonding adhesive and self taping screws. Obviously not the correct way to do it but I only drive 15 miles round trip to work and put a whoppping 5k miles on the car last year. I also pulled the fiberglass panels out with the intention to re-upholstery them. But, I haven't gotten to it yet. My original upholstery job looked decent, I managed to get a decent color match with a spray dye/color coat product. But the summer heat caused the glue to fail. I got some tonneau cover adhesive that I hope will work better. Anyways, future plans for the car are to move the midrange drivers up to the A pillar to address some issues with the frequency response from the driver side kick panel. I plan to try out some Markaudio drivers or use my Tangband w4s. I will probably not use a tweeter but I have several lying around if needed. The sls 8s might be swapped out if I cant get the 4" midrange to play low enough. updated pic of the amp rack, https://imgur.com/Gdu11nn
  11. if the auto sense feature doesn't work as it should than its trivial to run a remote wire to turn the lc2i and amp on. the voltmeters are tacky garbage. Unless you listen to music to with sustained tones the meter wont show you quick transient dips in voltage. Just do The Big Three and use your ears and eyes when you're listening to music. A 1kw amp shouldn't be tooo bad for most vehicles I would think.
  12. If I get creative with some PVC pipe I could play around with enclosure size for now. Its not quite that cold in central IL but I do not have access to garage either... Interesting, I'll look into UV resin.
  13. I think i'll grab a pair of those markaudio drivers just for fun and mess around with some A pillar pods for now. Too cold to do any fiber glassing for now.
  14. I'd be interested in swapping out the midbass if I dont lose too much midbass. Though, I'm probably not pushing the sls 8s all that hard as these GM doors are not very robust, even with a massive amount of sound deadening treatments. Any suggestion on 8" drivers?