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lithium

SSA Regular
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lithium last won the day on August 28 2019

lithium had the most liked content!

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352 Excellent Member

About lithium

  • Rank
    Lurker In Chief

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    brendan
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    SQ
  • Vehicle
    01 buick century

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  1. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    I was looking at the replacement seat back part and noticed circles on the drawing. Turns out there are about 36 holes on the panel. I'm going to build a sealed enclosure for one of my subs and see how much bass pass through the rear seat as is.
  2. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    That's fair. I'd rather cut the seat than the rear deck, but for now I'll probably try my 12" AA Arsenal sealed. Front stage is bit more important to me anyways. Planning to start with a simple two way with SSA components since I have a set just lying around. I'll probably get bored of that after a year or so and try some weird midbass stuff (underseat, kick panel, etc).
  3. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    do you think stock opening in the rear deck would be too restrictive for 10s or 12s?
  4. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    I don't want to cut the deck and do not have access to a welder. Still working out of my 1 bedroom apartment for now.
  5. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    I think I could make 3x 10" work on the rear deck. Seems like the Daytons, modelled above, could get close to the same performance as the mach 5 mj18 I've run in my last vehicles. I need to see if 12s could fit. And if they do, would the stock speaker openings in the deck be large enough to vent through. Im sure I could build a 6 inch thick baffle to install any size woofer on the rear deck. But that would defeat the purpose of the install.
  6. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    3 dayton ultimax 10's vs my MJ18 in 15 cuft. MJ 18 on 300 watts vs 600 watts on the daytons. (the mj18 xmax is 12mm so it actually runs out well below 300 watts)
  7. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    Maybe three 10s or 12 IB on the rear deck could happen.
  8. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    So as you can see here the rear deck is about 12 or 13 wide between the bracing. seat up (this color combo is kinda fuggly in some lighting, should have went with black interior lol) seat down, opening is about 27 inch wide at the bottom, 16 inches wide at the top, 30 inches wide in the middle, and 16 inches tall.
  9. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    Turns out you can buy the steel back for $200 https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~frame~rr~seat~back~82126-t3l-a01.html
  10. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    Ya that's right. Cutting the actual seat back. I would cut a small hole and let the sub vent into the seat foam. The problem with the rear deck is creating that baffle. The actual deck is <12" and I have to deal with the lid tension bars. I'll get pictures. Its useless to talk about this without showing you what it looks like.
  11. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    I'll get some pics when I can. Here is a stock photo of the rear seat. As you can see, its one section. stock photo of the truck
  12. lithium

    Infinite baffle and cutting rear seat back

    I forgot to mention that the rear seat does lie down unlike other coupes I've seen. So I think its not structural, thoughts? The issue with the rear deck is that it's very narrow, roughly 12". Stock sub installed in the rear deck is 8 inches with two additional holes for 6.5" drivers. Current driver options that I own are my Mach 5 MJ18 and 12" AA Arsenal. Making the MJ18 fit in a car is rough, I'd probably grab a 15" IB sub option just save myself the hassle.
  13. I would like to run an IB sub (ski pass) setup in my new vehicle (2015 honda accord coupe) but I'm unsure if its a smart idea to cut the rear seat back. In previous vehicles w/ a 60/40 split rear seat I would lay down one of the rear seat sections. However, this vehicle the entire rear seat back is steel and does not have a split section that I can lower. Also, there is no pocket arm rest in the center like most sedans which people commonly vent through. Can I remove a section of metal and vent through the foam/leather seat? For low frequencies I think I would be fine... How much metal should I remove? Some percentage of SD? Are there any safety concerns I should have when removing some of this metal? passenger safety? (who actually has passengers in a coupe I assume the function of steel is noise barrier and maybe some fire barrier?
  14. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    Bonus points for any suggestions on used cars under 20k. So far I have test drove a 2016 accord v6 sedan and 2015 Q50.
  15. lithium

    Buick Century - active 3way + sub w/ nexus 7

    I was meaning to update this post back at the end of fall. I finished the construction of the door enclosures and enjoyed them for last few months with some exceptions. Unfortunately the car is on its way out and I'm looking for a new vehicle. Below i'll post a few photos of the install as it (I actually removed everything today). Door Enclosures The door was cut back to allow some additional volume for the enclosure. I constructed the enclosure in a clam shell kind of shape. I used foam to create in the internal volume an shape. I dont have pictures of the shaping process and I'm not sure if I would do it this way in the future. Here is where I missed some photos. I used a piece of MDF to create a flat side to the outside of the enclosure and positioned the speaker baffle. The baffle was built with a replaceable ring so I could swap in other drivers (sls 8s are bit on the smaller side compared to other 8 inch drivers). The 2 pieces of the clam shell design where glued together with panel adhesive (the good 3M stuff). I dont have a photo but the enclosure are about 1/4" from the seat so I really maximized the volume. I had a little noise when using an analog rca connection with the c-dsp. so I grabbed a fio dac with a digital output. Pretty happy with the result. The crazy connector I have to use with my phone. I use an usb c extension so this whole thing doesn't hang from the phone. It retains phone charging. Just prior to Xmas I had one of the polk 2 channels pop (made pop sound on the speaker that was connected went into protect). I wasn't playing the system at the time so it was pretty strange. Found a hole in a voltage regulator. I replaced both of these chips and it booted up fine. Have not tried it on music yet. Hopefully I fixed it as these are great amps and put out a ton of power bridged. For some reason I started finding frost and a lot of moisture in general on the amplifiers in the trunk. I'm not sure what's causing it. It was not a leak, perhaps it was not venting? Anyways, apologies again for not posting more photos. Hopefully, I do a better job on the next car. I suspect I'll just install my set of SSA components, C-DSP, and PPI 4 channel initially and go crazy after buying a house with some garage space!
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