zeero3

Thank you guys! I appreciate the advice.

Quick update and quick question: Everything is finally in! Everything sounds awesome and now it's time to tinker... I have the Evil tweets mounted in a pod on the A pillar of a Honda Accord and the Evil mids are at the bottom of the front doors. With that run of the mill setup, what would be your starting point when it comes to crossing the mids and tweets? I've been playing with it but keep going back and forth and I've gotten a lot of mixed advice searching the forum. With your obvious experience with these components, where would you say is a good starting point to work from? Would 3kHz with steep crossover slopes fit the bill?

Thanks for the response! You’ve helped make this a little simpler for me. I plan on getting the miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 because I’ll be keeping my stock Honda head unit and I want to get the most out of the drivers (and I LOVE tuning things and this’ll be my first time using a DSP). This leads me to my next questions. 1) in using the DSP, I’m guessing just set all the amplifier crossovers at their “largest” setting to allow the most frequencies and let the DSP go to work? I say this because I believe channels 3&4 on the amp in question does not have a “full” crossover setting (and all mono amps have built in xovers). 2) if I buy a mono amp US Acoustics Mike, that delivers 1500W but have a sub (SI Mag v4 12”) that is rated by the manufacturer at about 1kW, what’s the appropriate way to safely “give less” power to the sub? Gain? DSP settings? Buy a different amp? 1500W is fine? thanks in advance!

Quick search and I didn’t find an answer to this easy question so I’ll ask here: If I go with US Acoustics Barbara Ann 100x4 @ 4 ohm amp how can I wire 2 Evil tweets and 2 Evil midbasses? I was figuring buy the tweets in 8 ohm to roughly power them w an estimated 50W from two channels active and get the midbasses in 4 ohm to roughly power them w an estimated 100W from the other two channels active. Is that how it works? Is each load independent on each channel thus getting independent power from the amplifier? This seems obvious but I’m not sure.

Thanks a lot Nigel. Not using the rear fill seems like something I’ve noticed a lot since I’ve been back lurking on the forums. I’ll take your advice and stop trying to feel like I need to find speakers for the rear. That also simplifies things a lot. Are there any suggestions for LOCs that work well with both a 4 channel and a mono amp? Also I’ve noticed many car audio builds on here have 2000W plus going to the subwoofer. Does anyone have experience with systems that have about 1kW to the sub and maybe 500W to the front stage? Does the big 3 upgrade usually handle the voltage drop or is more usually needed?

Ok, well after 10 years, I'm back and I came straight back here. First off, I want to say I'm happy this company, community, and forum is still around. I got a ton of help 10 years ago and I learned so much. Seeing the SSA store over the past week and browsing the forum brought me back. I already learned so much but see that I need to learn so much more. As the title suggests, I'm getting back into car audio with only an untouched SI Magnum I bought based on recommendations back in 2008. However, I now have a 2016 Honda Accord and some money to spend on a simple SQ system. The car has a stock 4 speaker system, and frankly, it sucks. I'm stuck at understanding what I can and can't do keeping my stock head unit and using a LOC. Is it possible to go with a 6.5" component set up in the front, a pair of something for the rear deck (I have no idea what to put there), and a single subwoofer and still keep the stock head unit all while NOT using cheap passive crossovers? If I want a pair of speakers in the rear deck, does that mean I must go with passive crossover components to get it all on a single 4 channel amp? I've seen a few recommend not even putting anything in the rear deck. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions/information. I promise to keep this thread going with updates in the build process....

Thanks guys. As far as the front stage goes, I kind of went the cheapo route. I sort of regret it, but I was extremely strapped for cash at the time, but those Type Rs are "alright" for what they are. Once my poker bankroll gets enormous, then I'll think about toys. (Talk about assbackwards, I was thinking Hybrids/Sundowns/3 batteries/etc w/ no source of income at the time!) As of now, I just want to think about a subwoofer that fits the above listening preferences. I also want a subwoofer that can get "babied" right now, but in the future could handle a little more wattage--nothing extreme and probably not even as bold as a SAZ-1500D, but just want to have a higher ceiling just in case I go on a 6 month heater. Sounds like I can't go wrong with either the Icon or the Magnum in a sealed enclosure....

Major lurker for a while. Love the site. Posted a few times, but I suck. Anyway. I was considering three subs: FI Q, SSA Icon, and SI Magnum (new one). I have a LOT of rap music, and when I play it I of course I want it to sound nice. However, the rap music I like is mostly bay area rap and older rap (94-98) and the bass lines aren't always the Jeezy, Weezy, whatever the hell loud ones. But when I'm cruising solo, I mostly listen to Soul (60s/70s), R&B (classic and contemporary), and Jazz. Listening to this kind of music doesn't usually ring the subwoofer bell for most people, but can a sub be a valuable asset to these genres? Are there any suggestions on how to "tune" a subwoofer to make it come alive while listening to these genres? (When I say "tune" I'm not even sure what I mean, but I believe I'll be going for a single 12" in a sealed box, so not that kind of "tune".) As of late, I think I'm most leaning towards the Icon, then the Magnum, then the Q. But would the Magnum better suit the Soul/R&B/Jazz sound better than the Icon? Anyone listen to these genres with $0.02? BTW, it will most likely be running off a 2000 (year) RF 800a2 amplifier and I already have Alpine Type Rs (5.25" components and 6x9") getting underpowered by 40Wx4 Alpine MRP-250. Music sounds decently good in a 1996 Buick LeSabre, but feel I definitely should have went w/ a more powerful 4channel. I'm ready for the subwoofer soon and trust the SSA Forum's knowledgable experiences with products. Thanks in advance guys....

Sorry I'm just sensitive like that. For what it's worth, I value the opinions on this forum. Going w/ a single 12, I was considering a few and narrowed it down to the Icon and the Magnum. Now I know I won't be sorry if I go with the Icon, but with an old 800a2 powering one sub, I'd much rather go with the one that needs less wattage to sound so great, ESP because I can seal it.... Can't wait to get this sub...

...and yet, we have another question, which could have been unasked, if people read through threads carefully. To answer your question - YES. Playing very high and remaining very clean is one of this sub's fortes. ... and yet, we have another jerk... For your info, I've been reading THIS thread and most of SI's theads about the new Mag daily for almost 3 weeks. Why don't you read through them carefully? I know it was stated that it COULD, that's why I asked smart-ass. Just because it COULD doesn't mean it's recommended does it? I know I'm new to posting on this forum, but that "jerkness" was not appropriate... I intend on purchasing the new SI Mag based on testimonials and reputation ALONE, so excuse yourself that I'm asking a question as SIMPLE as the preferred crossover point. BTW, thank you JimJ for your honest, helpful opinion....

Would the new Mag be happy with its LP crossover higher than the usual 70-80Hz?

If you really want a "thump" (thereby ruining the SQ potential), you can get that from either the Mag or the Icon. I've heard the Icon in infinite baffle, which is basically a very low-Qtc sealed alignment...it sounds great. Very accurate, and goes down to the limits of audibility and beyond into the infrasound range without complaining. It's all in how they're installed... Thanks guys for all the help. I appreciate the recommendations and honesty from people speaking on what they've experienced...

I would go with a FI SSD if i were you, just because the SSD requires a little less power than the Q, therefore it would be a lot closer to the power that amp is Actually putting out. And they sound great even being the bottom of the line FI sub, u dont have to worry about that. I can see you recommending the SSD over the Q because of where you believe the amp's power is at, but would you recommend that Fi sub over the Icon sealed? Please leave room for an amp upgrade WAY down the line...

Damn you guys! I saw this thread and I'm in the same freakin mess! I'm going sealed for SURE, but my choices are Icon, Q, and Magnum (assume all are 12"). SEALED and powered by the old RF 800a2! This amp is only 4Ω stable so it is SUPPOSED to be getting approximately 600-800 RMS. Since the power isn't that high I was leaning towards the new SI Magnum for its SQ reputation while not needing much power, then the SSA Icon for it's good SQ reputation yet still giving you that thump (but haven't heard from a sealed Icon user yet, but hoping Accordman does his review in a sealed enclosure ), but the Fi is so damn sexy..... What to DO man what to DO? Oh yeah, I'm new and be nice.... PS: I listen to Soul, R&B, Rap, and some alternative-type-ish Rock. I LOVE good heavy rap bass-lines, but I don't play them NEARLY as often as I play music w/out it!

First time poster, YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAH! But anyway. I've been a SUPER lurker on different forums for a while now and I like it here . I was the guy THIS CLOSE to putting a JLW7 in the H.O. box on credit card. I'm thinking it would've cost me about $750 for the 10" that is supposed to handle 500W. I have an oldie, but goodie, RF 800a2 amp so I didn't think about going for the 1000W RMS big stuff; forget it, I digress. Point is, I was ALMOST that guy in the Tommy "Hillfigure". But there were two reasons as to why I strayed from the JL path: 1) I was scared I'd pay that much and not be impressed, ie have LB roll up and laugh at me and my empty wallet and all over my 10". and 2) I'd much rather be the guy w/ some subs that not many people have even HEARD about that sound good for a good price .... I've been looking at subs and enclosures and this and that for about 2 months when I have the time. I've narrowed it down to the FI Q, SSA Icon, and new SI Magnum, all at 12". I'm looking for that "one perfect sub" for my little 96 LeSabre that actually SOUNDS great. I'm not the SPL guy, but if it got loud, then that's ALRIGHT! (If I can get to the mid-130 dBs w/ the new sealed SI Mag I'm not looking anymore!!!) To Lord Baccus, I'm a newb to this forum so I will try to not step on your toes AT ALL HERE. It sounds to me like you have to deal with JL heads day-in and day-out. For the most part they don't know WHAT they're talking about and/or their installs are booboo. They pledge allegiance to JL just because it's JL! And you're probably tired of spinning your wheels trying to explain to them that there is better stuff out there, AND THERE IS! But JL can't be THAT bad. I've personally heard some really good W0s! I don't necessarily think it's JL that sucks as much as the know-how of the people selling JL. Hey, JL can sound good and I hope you get to hear a working, properly set-up pair of W6s or W7s one day, but personally I'd rather be the guy popping the trunk showing something different and teaching the JL heads a thing or two...... This forum is sweet by the way!