chrapladm

So as time has passed did you ever build a 18 NSv3 and post any T/S for it Jacob? I have a design that looks great for my HT using these woofers. But now I am very curious what one 18" could do. And seeing the new SA frame pics you posted with a possible 6" P-P I am very curious again. And how big is a shipping package containing a 18" NSv3? Hope all is well for you and yours.

I thought I saw some where that there was a carbon fibre cone and dust cap on the SA-8v2. Was this a one off that I saw? Or was it on something else? Also are there dust cap options for no insignia? Sorry if this is posted some where else but I could not find it. I do believe there is a CF dust cap option but I would prefer to have the whole cone and dust cap of possible. Or at least a blank dust cap that matches the cone. Again thanks to anyones help.

Any updates Jacob? And what will the difference be between this 8" and the SA-8v2.

My apologies what is the Sd on this 10 prototype?

What is the Sd on the 8? Could be the picture but it looks much smaller because of the cone and surround combo compared to others in your lineup.

Its always hit or miss with packaging making it undamaged. I have the simple very minimal packaging from Fi on some 15's and shipped to me with very little wear on the packaging and nothing wrong with the drivers. BUT in saying that I know others that have gotten the same pair of drivers and they looked like they were thrown out the plane at 15K ft. I have also received 21's from overseas and they were packaged with 3 layers of cardboard front and back and then wrapped with some foam. No damage at all to those woofers. I hope this gets resolved but I really hope Sundown is able to get better packaging added. I dont mind spending the money but would want my product delivered to me undamaged for the money spent. I hope this thread is not a blow off and ignore for Sundown. Hopefully someone will respond soon. Is Sundown back to normal now?

I am surprised that the basket was ......crushed. I know when I have ordered from other companies that use foam very sparingly I was shocked. BUT some when ordering expensive heavy woofers will crate the woofer with double cardboard and use OSB or something more durable in their packaging. Either way I am curious what has happened to the basket. Also with Smart phones and everything else is it really that hard to get back with people via email or other? Jacob I knew was on vacation but I am a bit curious why there is no one to help. Things I cant answer without knowing both sides of the story. I hope this gets resolved.

I like the response simulation of the 6th order better than the 4th order. And even saying that I dont want to use those types of cabinets with a Le this low. If it was a driver with an Le like 4, 6 or 8Mh then I would. This would have been used in a small sealed design. BUT I dont have an amp that can deliver 10000watts. I know it is not NEEDED but I would like to always have double the power needed. Not always possible. So to keep power needs down a simple vented alignment with about 5000watts was the best I could come up with. That being said it was a 3.5cuft enclosure tuned to 16hz using dual PR's. For everyone else doing a higher tune this subwoofer takes a MASSIVE amount of power to hit its limits. No wonder it so hard in the SPL truck Jacob video'd. And what kind of power are people putting to these subs? I dont know what can be delivered in todays car audio amps. I mainly use these for home subwoofers. I have some big poweramps that will power them. Do other users put 8000watts to a subwoofer like this in a car?

Is the NS V3 designed to be in large ported cabinets? I only ask because on every simulations if the cabinet is NOT large then you need about 6000watts or more to hit Xmax. If sealed then you need closer to 9000 or more.

I know you have a lot going on and will be doing the slamology event, but how long does it take to do a NS3 with aluminum sleeve and 4 layer? I am not in a hurry but just trying to see how long it takes for estimates is all. Even though I really only have room for 15's I cant help but want to buy an 18 with 6" P-P when it is made. BUT for now these are amazing drivers with stupid low Le figures. I still cant believe how low of a number can be achieved.

Just to clarify Jacob, the .9 Le figure was from a Aluminum pole sleeve and 4 layer or 8 layer coil? I would assume 4 layer having the lower inductance but not sure. I looked at the pictures again and you were describing a build you were doing with the fat 8 layer. I am just curious how to replicate the extremely low Le figure you produced in a 15" model ordered from Sundown is all. As usual thanks for all your help and videos. Love your products and cant wait to finally get my pair of NS's or worst case scenario ZV4's. .9 Le figures are like that of JBL pro audio products with just a few mm of more travel.

Sorry if it was mentioned but what is the Xmax on these drivers? The sleeved pole Le measurement is most impressive. WOW

Just trying to find out if there is any woofer that FI builds that has T/S like the FI Q 15" but with more Xmax? I was looking at buying the Sundown ZV3 or possibly the ZV4. I liked the higher Xmax and it would edge out a few db over the Q because of this. I have had FI subs before and have always liked them. I remember other products being available but now see that those styles are gone. SO is there only the SP415 now for higher Xmax than the Q series? And if so can someone tell me what the mounting depth is including the top of the mounting flange? SO 11.25 + .75 flange? Thanks

lol No worries.

<p>Impious has stated it correctly. My situation has me coming from simulating many different subs. And using different drivers with very similar specs all resulting near same SPL. The ones that have higher Xmax are those with higher displacement. SO that being said that is why I asked about more Xmax. Displacement is king here for my application.<br /> <br /> I wont be hating on anyone here. I see no point. Any one can say as they please on a forum. Just trying to find out more was all.<br /> <br /> SO for me it looks like I will be testing out the FI Q and FI SP415. And the reason for this is because the Q may result in a much smoother response then the SP415. BUT only real world testing will tell. Not simulations.<br /> <br /> What is the Team FI sub?<br /> <br /> And does anyone have a picture or measurements detailing the dimensions from the top of the flange to the back of the magnet on the SP415?</p>

NOt quite sure what your wanting a pic of? The tapped horn I have now only has a Alpine Type S 15 in it. It works for now but I need a lot more SPL. If I built four of the Type S TH's I would be fine. BUT I would rather just have 2 subs as opposed to pushing around 4. So I need a bigger driver and thats where the Q comes in. The inductance has been known for a while on other HT forums. I only hoped I could have the inductance lower but still have the powerful motor. I see now that I will lose some of the power and have a higher Qts woofer. There are some other manufacturers that said that they could make a low inductance woofer with low Qts like I stated earlier but that would take time. And this Q 15 will work just fine for me.

I am just trying to find the T/S parameters for the heat ring option. I am wanting to add it to lower inductance but wanted to know what the new inductance would be. Secondly I will be putting 3500watts to a pair of Q 15's and dont believe I would need any extra cooling options. I will add the chamfering option but being on a tight budget I will probably skip the Bp/cooling option and just go with the standard Q. I also wanted to know what the Mechanical Xmax is? I only plan on using these to Xmax and less but I do like to know all parameters of my speakers before pushing them. Thanks for any help from anyone.

Figures. I know when I looked at other options I was curious of this. While changing this or that I wanted to maintain a strong and powerful motor. More powerful the better. With cooling and heat rings I figured this may make the motor force not as strong. Qts/Qes of .35 or under and a Bl of 22+ would be ideal. I'll take what I can get and that will be the Fi Q standard then. Will not add the heat ring if this also changes everything else.

No. I am keeping the lower Qts and using these in a Tapped Horn. Other wise these could not deliver the amount of SPL I need with just a pair. I can post a picture of my other tapped horn if you like to understand.

I dont plan on pushing these past Xmax. Just wanted to have these for a long time and wondered what was the breaking points was all. The Fi Q has a big hump in the response around 50hz so I was looking at adding the heating ring option to lower the inductance. That being said I could always eq the hump out of the response. But if I can I would prefer to just have a flatter response was all. Regardless of that these are the best value 15" I can find for my purposes. The other option was the ZV3 and thats many more dollars. So hopefully black baskets are sucessful and I should be getting my pair in the next month or so. Thanks again everyone. I dont do much car audio but have used a few different 15's from FI in home theater subs with great success. This next adventure will be using them outdoors in tapped horn designs for outdoor cinema. Nothing like hearing subs outdoors putting out 80db's 1 mile away. Pure fun.

Yes Xmech.

WOW....thats just awesome!!! My last 15's where not so that is great.

Is the Black basket an option on the Q 15"? I saw it was mentioned a while back.