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b0r

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Posts posted by b0r

  1. Posted

    What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

    0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.
    get rid of the reducers. Always use the largest cable you can use. You ALWAYS want a straight run for your ground cable, don't splice it or reduce its size in the middle somewhere. What amp do you have again? Always use the largest wire your amp can fit and always use the same size ground cable as you have for your power cable. If you have larger wire it is okay to use reducers, but make sure they are as large as the amp will allow. Make sure after you do all of these things that your ground cable is no more than 3ft long and ALL of the paint is stripped away from the mounting point. Make sure that your ground is connected SOLID to the chassis of the vehicle.

    The amp can take 4 Ga. It's a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP. I used reducers because when I bought the car, I didn't know the stock battery was in the trunk, So I found myself with 20 feet of power wire in 0 ga that I didn't need. I went the reducer route in the event I got an amp for my mids and highs. Just a simple connection with 4 ga wire. I think the only thing within 3 feet of my amp is a seat bolt so I'll have to mess with that idea next week when I paint the car. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

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  2. Posted

    What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

    0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.

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  3. Posted

    They very well could. Back in the good 'ol days, before Class D amps ruled the roost the Class AB amps would get hot enough to fry eggs on, and that's no exaggeration. Back in the mid 90's I traded a US Amps A50HC to a guy who put it on four 15" Rockford subs in an S10 at either 1 ohm, or .5 ohm bridged (amp was .25 ohm stable stereo so .5 bridged was fine). Aside from the fact he had to put 4" C clamps every 6" to keep the fiberglass shell on the bed of his truck that amp ran so hot it melted the carpet on the board it was mounted to. MELTED the carpet mind you and that was perfectly fine for that piece of equipment. So hot you can only hold your hand on it for a few moments is pretty much how it goes for any amp at 1 ohm that's being run fairly good IMO. The amps have thermal protection built into them and I've yet to see that protection fail on anything of any decent build quality so I'd just let it go and start to worry about it when it does go into protect, if ever.

    I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.
    its like alton said. There are even amps today that you can cook and egg on. The amp WILL go into protection if its too hot. People who have a ton of experience with this stuff are all telling you the same thing and you still don't want to take our word for it. There is nothing wrong with an amp getting hot, but IF it goes into protection then you have to troubleshoot any problems. When an amp goes into protection it doesn't kill the amp, its just letting you know that something is wrong. Your setup is just fine, now stop babying it and play it how you really want to.

    I hear that. I reiterated for this specific amp, and not because I didn't understand any particular answer. It has been my experience since 2002 that amps heat up as they play or if there is a problem. This amp will get to 135F in twenty minutes whether it's playing a sub or not, which was more my concern. I did test it, turned the sub down to -3 at the head unit and low volume, counted how long I could hold without being burned and then again with +6 and playing loud and there was no noticeable difference. Just strange to me that the amp is roasting with no gain or heavy playing, just power.

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  4. Posted

    They very well could. Back in the good 'ol days, before Class D amps ruled the roost the Class AB amps would get hot enough to fry eggs on, and that's no exaggeration. Back in the mid 90's I traded a US Amps A50HC to a guy who put it on four 15" Rockford subs in an S10 at either 1 ohm, or .5 ohm bridged (amp was .25 ohm stable stereo so .5 bridged was fine). Aside from the fact he had to put 4" C clamps every 6" to keep the fiberglass shell on the bed of his truck that amp ran so hot it melted the carpet on the board it was mounted to. MELTED the carpet mind you and that was perfectly fine for that piece of equipment. So hot you can only hold your hand on it for a few moments is pretty much how it goes for any amp at 1 ohm that's being run fairly good IMO. The amps have thermal protection built into them and I've yet to see that protection fail on anything of any decent build quality so I'd just let it go and start to worry about it when it does go into protect, if ever.

    I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.

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  6. Posted

    I hope I will never blow aything in my system !

    My bass amp is never really hot, and the sub neither (a BTL N2 on a 1500 w amp).

    A friend of mine is running a Sundown NS-1 (@ 2 Ohms) on a fi btl N2 : after a loud listening session, the sub and amp are not even hot !!! You can say, by touch, that they were playing, but you can never guess they were playing so loud and for so long. People are, first, impressed with the output and the sound quality, and then, when they touch the equipment, most do not understand how it can be so cold !!! I live in the Caribbeans : hot weather all year-long, and lots of rain too !

    We both have no DD-1, no O'scope, only our ears. When it sound weird, turn it down or back the gain down, and that's it.

    Good luck.

    My sub is barely showing signs of temp but my amp is getting hot...if I had to guess above 110F for sure, maybe hotter. Solid ground at the battery, 0 ga power and ground wires into 4ga reducers. I'm not sure if this is normal for 1 ohm but the gain is barely up and I'm playing at 50% volume so it's strange.

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  7. Posted

    i dont think your even close to using your system to its full potential. Your babying the shit out of it

    I assume so. My amp is cooking...on volume 25/47 with gain barely up it's hot...not insane hot but hot enough to wonder why at such low gain and volume. Grounded to the battery so the ground is solid. 0ga power and ground into 4 ga reducers. Voltage on my radar detector doesn't drop below 13.7. Is this just the cause of a 1 ohm wiring? It's on the back seat so I can feel it and it's slightly concerning. No thermal light yet though.

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  9. Posted

    You do understand that the sub has to wear in over time right? It's not going to drop low and be up to its full potential right out of the box.

    Play it, it will come alive. If you're planning on the speakers moving assembly to flop around like a dead fish out of water that's not the intent of the speaker. If you see videos of them moving like that online it's due to somebody playing WAY below their boxes tuning frequency with no subsonic filter and they're going way past the linear point (which is 18mm). Then these are the same people who flip the hell out about yanking the tinsel leads out of their subs or burning them up.

    The BL is not meant to be a high excursion sub by any means.

    You're irritated because it isn't' moving 4"? Or are you irritated because it doesn't sound how you desire it to sound?

    FWIW, ca.com went to shit 7-8 years ago - you are doing things right and properly, don't fall in the dismal abyss of the self proclaimed 'experts' of the internet..you'll jack something up in a heartbeat.

    My concern was 100% in not utilizing my equipment. I just wanted to make sure the box was legit, the amp was enough and the sub was not burning up. The thing is, with cheap equipment, who cares? $120 sub blows? Buy another one and turn the gain down. Blowing a few $400 woofers is enough to turn me off completely.

    I'm going to set gains by ear tonight and let it go. I'm just picky with my electronics. Everything I have, no matter how old, can be sold as if it were brand new. I don't like the risk variable, but I have to accept it.

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  10. Posted

    Right. Unfortunately, I found this site 2 years after my DD-1 purchase.

    Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry sad.png
    Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question.

    I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well.

    I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15.

    My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone.

    Zero everything. No bass boost, do not EQ to the + side, always attenuate (dial the EQ down).

    You claimed you were clipping the HU at 47 out of 50 and you have the sub outs dialed to +6? Bullshit. Not bullshit on you, but it is proof that the DD1 is a complete pile of shit. Not only that, but there is no way in hell an Xplod unit is clean to 94% of it's total output at 0... no way in hell.

    In all fairness, it's a $500 7 inch in-dash, but I get it, lol. I should just buy an excelon in dash.

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  11. Posted

    Set it that way and see what changed. As far as you definition of "massive excursion", what are you comparing to? xmax on the BL is 18mm. It's not going to be moving like a Xcon or SP4.

    Money wasn't an issue, but I didn't buy an SP4 because I don't have the power to ever run it to max potential or even slightly near rms. Never looked at the Xcon, but it looks like a beast. Perhaps I should've went that route. Maybe if I accidentally blow this up I would. 18mm is less than an inch if I'm not mistaken..so wow. Perplexed.

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  12. Posted

    Set it that way and see what changed. As far as you definition of "massive excursion", what are you comparing to? xmax on the BL is 18mm. It's not going to be moving like a Xcon or SP4.

    Just referring to YouTube videos of BLs on the same type of power in the same type of box give or take a .5 cubes. Their subs are flexing like jello and mine hits hard don't get me wrong, but it barely moves. It is still "New" with roughly 10 hours or so of play time.

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  14. Posted

    If your gain is all the way down on the amp and you have your sub wired correctly then there is absolutely no reason you can't slam on it! What headunit are you running and what are all of the subwoofer settings set to, what are all the amp settings set at? How do you have the sub wired specifically?

    Sub is wired to 1 ohm following the crutchfield diagram. Pos to pos, neg to neg jumper and left pos going to box and right neg going to box. Tested at the speaker wire before going into the amp with a volt meter showing 1.3 which I'm pretty sure is the 1 ohm reading I'm looking for. Gain is up maybe 2 centimeters or less based on DD-1 tuning.

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  16. Posted

    what exactly is the question ? is it not loud enough ?

    way more info is needed . car, amp , coil config to name a few

    Dodge charger, Rockford T1000-1bdCP wired down to 1 ohm. I have the BL15 D2. I may not have my gain up enough, but people jumped on the box and "fi= fail" as being my problem. I just noted that I wasn't seeing any massive excursion at high volume, but my gain was set real low with a dd-1 and I think that's the problem I have to address first. Seats always down in back of my charger, sub and port firing backwards.

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  18. Posted

    I had my box custom made and shipped to me. I asked for a 15" birch box to be made. The specs are 31.25 inches wide, 16 inches high and 19 inches deep. 3.25 inch wide port with 47.25 sq inches of port area. 3.55 cubes internally after displacements and tuned to 31.8Hz. All of these numbers appear to be within the specs posted by Nick for a BL 15....this is the only size box that will fit in my trunk. And taller, wider or deeper and it will not fit. Obviously a bit bigger would be great but is this not an efficient box? And if not, how, when it is built within the specs posted for BL 15 enclosures? Thanks.

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  22. Posted

    The only thing shocking to me is how often this topic pops back up. If you at all spent even 30 seconds searching this site you'd have never bought the DD-1.

    Proven over and over and over again. There is only ONE purpose the DD-1 serves. And that purpose is to put money in SMD's pocket.

    Right. Unfortunately, I found this site 2 years after my DD-1 purchase. The good news is, plenty of people on that forum will buy it from me. No, I don't want the world to hear my music, I just want to see what this thing will do. I'm pretty sure I have great hardware, with the exception being a Rockford amp, I just took the get what you pay for route. Plenty of 1500W amps at half the cost of my Rockford and I didn't want to power my new sub with an amp I tried to save some money on.
    I'd pay for a rockford monoblock before I'd pay for just about any other amp on the market.

    This was sort of my feeling on the amp subject, and I settled on Rockford because of the very conservative amp ratings based on other users. I almost bought a Sundown or a Sounqubed but I saw too many woofers burning up while connected to those amps and none about Rockford. I kind of winged it, but I'm happy with my purchase.

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  23. Posted

    Right. Unfortunately, I found this site 2 years after my DD-1 purchase.

    Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry sad.png

    Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question.

    I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well.

    I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15.

    My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone.

    1

  24. Posted

    The only thing shocking to me is how often this topic pops back up. If you at all spent even 30 seconds searching this site you'd have never bought the DD-1.

    Proven over and over and over again. There is only ONE purpose the DD-1 serves. And that purpose is to put money in SMD's pocket.

    Right. Unfortunately, I found this site 2 years after my DD-1 purchase. The good news is, plenty of people on that forum will buy it from me. No, I don't want the world to hear my music, I just want to see what this thing will do. I'm pretty sure I have great hardware, with the exception being a Rockford amp, I just took the get what you pay for route. Plenty of 1500W amps at half the cost of my Rockford and I didn't want to power my new sub with an amp I tried to save some money on.

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