streetbeater07
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Posts posted by streetbeater07
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I am not a loudspeaker designer so I cannot legitimately argue specs.
Then maybe YOU should do your research before you type.
I did. The specs are posted. I was stating what i read and saw, not what I thought. Maybe YOU should not comment on this thread if you do not have anything positive to contribute. Sir.
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As I said per results he posted. And per them (the results above) they are not. As I have already said he may have revisions, but if so there have been none posted.
I do believe you misunderstood Jacob.
And per the Klippel results that Jacob posted his new softparts hit xmax at 30mm one way.
I appreciate your criticism, however, you should do your research before typing. Those drivers are linear way past 30mm. FYI.
Let's see if we can get Jacob to chime in on this and clarify some of these renderings. I am not a loudspeaker designer so I cannot legitimately argue specs.
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The x/z will have more xmech. But the Z isn't fair to compare to the other drivers. I'd say flip a coin on x10 or HD10. Both are good drivers.
Really depends on enclosure tuning and goals. If the op plans on playing below tuning the larger xmech on the Z.4 could be and advantage over the X on the same power.
I do not plan on playing below tuning intentionally, however, in the event that it does happen, i do not want to damage my driver. I will set amp gains, ssf, and port tuning accordingly. i want to give the driver the best possible environment for it to perform the duties it was designed for. I am looking for the one that fits my application the best. i do not want to use something that is not intended for my purpose. I am looking for loud, low, good power handling, and sound extremely good while doing so. I want to tune 28-30hz 1.5cu.ft. with 16sq.in of port area per cube.
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I do believe you misunderstood Jacob.
And per the Klippel results that Jacob posted his new softparts hit xmax at 30mm one way.
If the softparts hit xmax at 30mm then that would equal xmech. The softparts go up to 50mm one-way on the Z.4 IIRC. Linear xmax on the prototype is around 30mm.
Sundown :
This is from our first prototype -- as noted in the image it has a shorter pole extension that we will end up with. I will do more Klippel on final production models... but so far I am very pleased with the new suspension platform as it's linear WAY out past the 30mm range and BL is linear up to ~30mm or so as well even before the final motor.
Le performance also turned out very good on it as well; the taller pole will sacrifice a bit here as the Le shape will be more of a plateau in the outward direction rather than an even parabolic shape. Being a sub-woofer I am willing to take that trade for more linear x-max -- we could see over 35mm linear one-way linear on final production.
Production models in stock format will be stiffer than these so higher Fs and Qts spec as well as lower VAS -- but we will have a ton of spider options available for the new frame platform so we can make just about anything.
Thank you for backing my research with fact. I think the x is capable of 50mm and the z is 62.5! Wowzer
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The x/z will have more xmech. But the Z isn't fair to compare to the other drivers. I'd say flip a coin on x10 or HD10. Both are good drivers.
I know they are rated for different power handling, but they are based off of the same design. The x,z subs are similar in design to the tantric subs where you have the capability of more xmech than xmax.
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I do believe you misunderstood Jacob.
And per the Klippel results that Jacob posted his new softparts hit xmax at 30mm one way.
I appreciate your criticism, however, those drivers are linear way past 30mm. FYI.
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Hello guys, I am looking to put together a system with one 10 inch driver in a ported box for my mustang. I am looking for something with around 1500 watts rms, long throw excursion with 30mm or greater xmax. These are the choices that i have found and liked so far:
Sundown x10
Sundown z10
Tantric Sounds hd10
I seen some others like ssa xcon 10 but it is still based on the old style basket and spider setup and while it has an xmax of 31mm, Jacob of Sundown said that these older designs reach xmax and xmech at the same time whereas the new styles like the x,z and tantric subs are designed with way more throw built in so over excursion wont damage the woofer to an extent. Which of these do you think will fit my application and why? Thanks. I am looking to power either sub with a dd m1c, m2b, saz-2500d, or ia20.1.
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haha yea right, wish i just had the amount of money it would take to purchase all three..
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Thanks. I figured someone who knows their stuff has put at least one of these through an actual, reliable test and would chime in..
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come on guys, just for sh**s and giggles I'd like to see what kind of numbers these monsters actually put out. Not a verses thread just some general power talk.
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Digital Designs Z2LV, Z-SE, or M4A? Just a thought. I would like to see what you guys think and what kind of numbers have you seen from actual tests.
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I've been running one of Mechman's 270 amp alts for a little over a year and have had nothing but good results with it. Never had one issue with it at all. I was faced with the same dilemma, and chose Mechman. I feel like I made a good choice too. I am in no way talking against DC Power as i've never used their products. I'm sure Rob does a heck of a job providing top notch equipment also. I'm just speaking from personal experience, if you go Mechman, you won't regret it.
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yes they are grounded to the inside of the trunk on the side by the wheel well. I thought the body was all tied together and the current transferred through the body..
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I would try to simply replace your current yellow top, and see where your voltage sits. It would be the easiest and cheapest route. Also, how are you wiring your batteries? That also has a big impact.
yea that would be the most sensible thing to do. I have dual runs of 1/0 positive ran to the trunk. from there, i run both runs of positive to the 1st battery. Also have two runs of 1/0 negative ran to the 1st battery from the side wall in the trunk using (2) dual ground foots. from the first battery, parallel + and - to the second battery, and paralell + and - to the third battery. All battery wiring done with 1/0. Wiring in between batteries is less than a foot each.
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Actually I would get a volt meter and monitor your voltage drop with what you have currently. Take out the bad battery and go from there.
kool. yea, i have a voltmeter now. thats how i knew i had a problem. voltage was dropping more than normal under a load. It was fine before the battery went bad. Maybe i could just buy another yellowtop and replace it? I just figured that i needed better batteries. But if the yellowtops are good quality, then i'd just stick with them it would be a lot cheaper.
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Yes. The xs will eat that redtop up. Ger the biggest xs that will fit for under the hood
oh ok. so the largest xs that will fit under the hood and 1 d3100? does that sound about right? and that should solve my problem?
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I would recommend 1-XS 3100 for the rear and upgrade your starting battery to an XS battery as well. Should be enough for your application, then if you feel you need more go for another XS3100.
so i need to upgrade the redtop under the hood as well?
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ok. I got you. Well, let me ask this question, since overkill is always good couldnt i just run 2 of the smaller series like 2 2400's or 2 2700's and still have room to play? i like the idea of overkill too but two d3100's would be overkill on my pocket!! lol
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ok, thanks! what about 1 d3100 & 1 smaller xs battery like a d1200? would that work or does it need to be the same size? I feel like 1 would do the trick as a secondary battery just not 100% sure. I know some of you guys have been in this same dilemma. I play my music a lot sitting still for demos. 3 AA Havoc 12's 6 cubes ported to 34 hz.
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Hello guys, i have a question about properly powering my saz 3000d. Right now i am running 3 group 34/78 yellowtops. One of them has a dead cell so i am going to remove all of them and redo my battery bank. Under hood battery is a redtop group 34. My total rms wattage is around 3600 watts including my mid amp. I've been searching google all morning looking for a straight-forward answer to this question. I havent found any real answers just mostly suggestions. this is a daily setup so reserve capacity is the key here. I have been looking at the xs power d3100 but i dont know if 1 will be enough or do i need 2? Also, i have a 270a mechman alt, all big three upgrades and dual runs of 1/0. Can someone please help me figure this out so i can get back to ground pounding! thanx.
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so i just ran the rca's straight to the head unit and everything sounds a lot cleaner now. I was running them through the external eq which has a 5volt pre out voltage. So now do i need to adjust my gains again since the deck is only a 4volt?
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i run a pioneer head unit that has 4v preout and 7 band eq with 3 sets of preouts and sub level control as well as built in crossovers.
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![http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/BL_CURVE/Klippel/Zv4_Klippel_OG_15_Prototype.jpg]http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/BL_CURVE/Klippel/Zv4_Klippel_OG_15_Prototype.jpg[/url](http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/BL_CURVE/Klippel/Zv4_Klippel_OG_15_Prototype.jpg%22%5Dhttp://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/BL_CURVE/Klippel/Zv4_Klippel_OG_15_Prototype.jpg%5B/url){kind=link}
Sundown x,z 10/ Tantric Sounds hd10
in Subwoofers / Speakers
Posted
You can go to the ssa store under the sundown subs category and read the description. They are scheduled to arrive rhis month.