Whatshisface176

The Fi SP4 15 is in the car and it wants power. I want to give it close to rms of 3000 watts but I have a budget of $400... Any recommendations on a truthfully rated amp (around) 3000 watts @ 1ohm?

A good friend of mine just recently traded his 2 12s for a Btl n2 15 and is now looking to build a box. Being the guy he is, he likes the lows. This sub may not be the most applicable for his needs but he's hoping for the best. He likes loud, and he likes low. We were both thinking about a box that is roughly around 4 cu ft using 3/4 mdf. We were also thinking on possibly doing an aero port(s) design. Although a slot port is still an option. If it helps to know, the box will be going into a 1991 Jeep Cherokee. Also it will powered by a Hifonixs Brutus brx2400. He and I would very much appreciate if anyone has any designs for this type of application and or any recommendations that would help him achieve his goals. Thank you for your time!

He traded his American Bass xfl12s. He just couldn't get what he wanted out of them. Plus everyone he knows has xfls and he wanted something different and special. Surely enough he got that! lol and I know they are!! we just want this box to turn out right. Although, I would imagine that tuning to 28hz wouldn't make it as loud? At least for just a single 15. Am i wrong?

A while back I burnt up the leads of my sp4 15 (and only on 2400 watts). The new FOAD leads look cool and all but after seeing a few pictures of them being torn up after daily use, I don't know how they will hold up. Maybe a psi recone would be better? Input or advice please?

Although what could have caused the leads on mine to separate like that??

ehh. I feel like a recone would be better. Some people have told me recones can turn out better than the original but I don't know how true that statement is.

okay I see how this dude messed up his foad leads now... and is there any way to fix the leads on mine or am I still going to need a whole new recone?

okay so this is my situation. one of those leads is a positive on one coil, and the other lead is a negative on the other coil. hence why it's 2 pictures

this is the main picture that discouraged me. It's why I'm kind of skeptical on getting the new recone from fi. although i'm not sure how this guy managed to do this to hid leads and i don't want to be subjective to this problem either..

if i could post a picture as to what happened I think it would be a little more of an assistance. i have 2 pics as to what happened with the leads. can anyone explain to me how i can get pictures uploaded on to this thread. p.s. i am sorry for acting out of character.

At this point it seems ironic to bitch. But, every time I come to this forum, I never get an answer. Never. It's always one smart ass after another making a statement about what "The problem in the first place was." And every pucking thread i make it's the same damn thing. I can never just ask a question and get a simple answer. Yes, car audio is a very controversial and complicated topic. Yet, sometimes people just want a simple answer. Such as my question, which recone is better.. Fi or PSi? then i get an answer and we're all pucking happy. I don't want to be criticized and questioned about "Oh look at this guy, he said his gains are set properly, I call bullshit." And it's every time, I am not an idiot, i know my shit too. You don't have to comment to make yourself look smarter, no one gives a shit. I am an 18 year old college student that doesn't have an ass ton of money to support a full blown perfect system. When my Fi sp4 blew, it burnt a hole in my wallet (that barely has money anyway). so when i ask which recone will be the best, that's all i want to know. I know why my sub blew, my box is to god damn big. it's damn near 7 cu. And that's my fault, i miscalculated when building. And i just don't have the money and time to rebuild it. So please, ease up on the statements and questioning my knowledge. sometimes this forum just doesn't help me.

I guess you do make a point. Although, why would a woofer rated at 3k rms, fail at 2400 watts (in my case). p.s. amp gains were properly set

if Fi has such great recones then how come I see pictures of the new lead designs falling apart?

I don't have any pictures but it's easy to find pictures on google. just search Fi foad leads

I have a single sp4 15 in a 5.5 cu ft box after displacement and it plays great. so yes I would assume that 4 cu after displacement would be to small.

So my friends set up is a single sa 15 in a 6.5 net cu ft box with 91.5 in Sq port area and it's receiving roughly 950 watts. After normal play for about an hour the motor gets very warm and we noticed today that around the cone there is a small amount of tearing on the surround. Not sure why this is happening knowing that the sa's can take quite a bit of beating . maybe the box is just to large for the woofer and it's causing some thermal stress on the the motor. Just curious what might be the problem and if there is a solution.

Does that enclosure sound better?

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL I mean there are people on youtube feeding these 2kDon't worry about what someone on youtube is doing. That's your first problem. No reason to even reference youtube here. Obviously you're not doing something right as you are tearing the sub apart.Second what is the point for using that extra power on the sub other than increasing your risk of damage to the driver? You are looking at 1-1.5db more output, which is either fully or borderline inaudible in exchange for clearly overdriving the subwoofer. What exactly do you plan to achieve other than damaging the driver ? If output is the goal, that extra power isn't doing a whole hell of a lot of good. All it's doing is tearing the driver apart. Back off the power. Where is the subsonic filter set and how did you set the gain to know that it's "set correctly" ? I'd have to model the enclosures, but if the surround is tearing that's a clear indication of over excursion. So either you are using too much power for that enclosure mechanically, or the SSF isn't set correctly...or both. I am simply asking for his help. Do not state this is "my doing" my set up is very much perfect with nothing wrong what so ever. I know what i am doing. He on the other hand wanted me to post on here so that he could get more input on the subject. Instead i am being told that "I" am doing something wrong... Maybe you are or maybe you arent, and I say this because amp gains and Sub Sonic Filters don't set themselves for each different enclosure. Impious is right in that the sub is breaching it's xmax due to either the size of the enclosure or improperly set SSF or both. Also to make sure you have "overhead" power you need to dial back the gain behind the output of the voltage of you H/U. In this case I would either change out enclosures ASAP or dial back on the gain and double check the ssf. We are fixing the box. 3.5 cubes tuned to 29 or 30hz using an aero port. Again, he wants lows

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. +1 ^^~and as others stated before the gain could be set to high causing the sub to clip AND the enclosure is just waay too big Gains are set correctly That's good. The best solution then would be a smaller enclosure he could darn near run two 15's in that amount of space! Yes sadly enough this was going to be for 2 15s but he found this woofer and wanted it. Therefore putting it in this box. I believe now we've decided to rebuild and make a box with 3.5 cu ft and an external aero port so that he can change the tuning as he pleases. He wants to tune it around 29-30hz. Again seeking those lows.

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL I mean there are people on youtube feeding these 2kDon't worry about what someone on youtube is doing. That's your first problem. No reason to even reference youtube here. Obviously you're not doing something right as you are tearing the sub apart. Second what is the point for using that extra power on the sub other than increasing your risk of damage to the driver? You are looking at 1-1.5db more output, which is either fully or borderline inaudible in exchange for clearly overdriving the subwoofer. What exactly do you plan to achieve other than damaging the driver ? If output is the goal, that extra power isn't doing a whole hell of a lot of good. All it's doing is tearing the driver apart. Back off the power. Where is the subsonic filter set and how did you set the gain to know that it's "set correctly" ? I'd have to model the enclosures, but if the surround is tearing that's a clear indication of over excursion. So either you are using too much power for that enclosure mechanically, or the SSF isn't set correctly...or both. I am simply asking for his help. Do not state this is "my doing" my set up is very much perfect with nothing wrong what so ever. I know what i am doing. He on the other hand wanted me to post on here so that he could get more input on the subject. Instead i am being told that "I" am doing something wrong...

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. I understand what you are saying....but this is exactly why i tend to set up my systems where they are very unlikely to get overdriven. I just don't see the need unless you are competing. Admittedly i am just getting into this level of output, but I have always ran subs that had a bit more rating than the power I am feeding them, and have yet to blow an amp- or cook a woofer(except for the IA I just had reconed...and I was over powering it). But it seems self evident when you are feeding a 600w sub almost 1000w and it starts coming apart what the problem is.LOL I mean there are people on youtube feeding these 2k

There's nothing wrong with using more than rated power on any driver BUT it takes more attention to everything and a good ear to keep from destroying them. Extra power is good for headroom plain and simple. The headroom gets you more power to the driver with less chance of clipping and distortion. Nothing but a good thing as long as you don't overdo it on the volume knob. +1 ^^~and as others stated before the gain could be set to high causing the sub to clip AND the enclosure is just waay too big Gains are set correctly

I've seen someone with the woofer in a 5.5 cu ft box tuned to 29hz and it got really low but i'm not sure how well the woofer was taking the power. It was about 750 watts as well. He just really wants his low end to peak.

He wanted a good amount of low end with the sub. He really likes around 25-40hz range. What tuning and box detentions might be able to achieve this?

Just bought a northstar nsb agm 34 Opinions? Any experience? What am I to expect of it? Electrical: runs of 0 gauge 220 amp alt Big 3 Duralast gold under hood Kinetik hc600 as 2nd battery Pushing roughly 2400 watts rms The kinetik is being replaced by the Northstar. I typically drop down to around 10.5v with car driving and sub playing. Just curious if this should solve my problem and if anyone has experience with these batteries.