Cr@sh

I would like to add to this thread. I was at a 2X point show in Taylor,MI on saturday the 12th and there was a competitor with 9 kinetik 2400's and was charging them @ 16.5 volts. I asked him if he had any problems he said none! he said as long as you cycle your charging you'll be fine. He had a DMM on them showing 16.5 when it sat @ 16.5 he would turn the voltage lower effictively cycling them and charging them full out without issue's. I witness this first hand. The guy was representing Roadrage sound out of Ohio and did a 160 in the db drag with the Kinetik's and 4-15" american bass oh yea and those chitty hifonics brutus's that don't do there full 2600rms.

So there were no improvements or changes made then? Well thats a relief This is not the case and all box programs are wrong. Any insight on what Thiele and Small's models are doing incorrectly? It will tell you to put it in a 3-4 cubic foot sealed box for a +/- 3dB output through the spectrum. Follow what we ask, the guidelines aren't hard ant nobody has any issues with them. Parameters are done just need to be put up on the site, Scott has them. If you want i can do what 85% of the industry does and manipulate some numbers to satisfy you crash ..you'd never know the difference. By all means post what you have like the original op had asked! if you have them or can get them from scott, I would like to see the 15" btl or do I have to start a whole new thread in which to beg from????

So there were no improvements or changes made then? Well thats a relief This is not the case and all box programs are wrong. Any insight on what Thiele and Small's models are doing incorrectly? lol, good luck! apperently FI products break all the laws of physics and therefore cannot be measured by the industry standard!

Im using the new 15"BTL I have 12 cubic ft to work with, 20 if I want it but easly 12 so 3 per sub. My calcs give me 30hx8wx10L on the port according to nick's suggestion of 3-5 cubic ft per sub.

I would like to just see these: Vas = Equivalent air compliance (litres) Qts = total Q of the driver at its resonant frequency Fs = resonance frequency of the driver (Hz) Dv = internal diameter of port (cm) Based on an SPL design or high frequency, not the typical 33-35 hz cenario. I am looking @ 45hz for my tuning and like the guy above before I start chopping into the 1" MDF I want to make sure of a few things.

So there were no improvements or changes made then? Well thats a relief

But those recommendations were for the older version of btl's correct?

Wait till you hook it up I was impressed running mine @ 4ohm , can't wait to see what it can do @ 1ohm.

haha good luck! I have looked everywhere for the fifteen inch btl. There is UK site that sells there stuff with the parameters but from 07 models I think.

I recieved my order today or part of it. Can someone please look into this? I came home to 3 woofers on my porch, I can't beleive the shipment was not made to sign for! I ordered 4-15" btl's and got 3!!!

Scott took care of! thanks again!

I have owned a few of them back in the late 90's and never had a problem with one of them nor has any customer I had.

Sounds like you got right nice system there

Thanks man! I will continue to recommend these amps to people until someone can show actual proof that they are not worth the money. Like helotaxi said why would you pay 500 bucks for an amp that does 300rms when you can get one that say's it does 500rms but actualy does 300rms for 200bucks?

Not just hate, but I havent seen one person that can show actual proof by testing one and then showing the results that they suck. I have read twenty threads now saying there garbage but not one person who said it actually owned one or at least proved it. Looking at the guts from the SAZ amps and the 2608d looks the same to me! grant it I dont have a SAZ amp in my hands to check the actual components to see if there high quality or the same. Ofc every person who has a SAZ is going to say there high quality components but do they have actual proof where the parts come from? The fact is most if not all parts are from oversee's just some companys hand build them here and some don't. I paid 410.00 for mine so after hearing it today I was happy.

I have bought 4 2608d's for my setup and I have several threads where people have said you can get better amps. The thing is you can always get better amps becuase some company will always make something better. I have been installing for 20 years and have seen almost everything from the begining and have fallen in love with many amps only to be let down by the company becuase they stop making something, it's the nature of the biz! anyway I will post actual test results of my setup and prove or disprove all theory's

Well didn't want to thread jack ya, but yea I have always been for them. Yes when ZED was making there stuff it truely was nice but for the money I couldnt go wrong. I hooked one up today to my 12"solox running @ 4ohm and was very impressed! I can't wait to see what four of these running @ 1 ohm to 4-15" btl's will do

I would start a new thread so we don't jack canyon's

Sure you can do that, it might be more costly and more weight added then needed. The yellow tops just don't compare to the powermasters and kinetiks and the likes. Going with something different in your trunk won't make any difference unless your planning on magazine shot's of your car? and even then it really doesnt matter. If you check around other forums and this one two you'll see most people will have a yellow top or just oem for the front and then big boys for the trunk.

Correct, You would keep the one up front for your car only. I have never considered the car's battery usable for a system of that magnetude. I would get a 3100 powermaster or 2400 kinetik, which ever you can get a better deal on both will work for application depending on how long you plan on riding around playing all this? I have read that the powermaster 3100 has a longer run time, but I havent tested my kinetiks yet as I am still in the building stages. You may want to consider two of them, I would buy one for sure and then run it and see if have any loss issue's especially after playing for a few hrs. You will need to isolate the rear battery from the front, I use @200amp isolater from stinger <--this is only if you plan on having your car's single and only alternator charge both batterys. I will not be using one for my current setup as I am using more than one alternator.

I would definitly fuse it. If the alternator should by some crazy reason ground out internally then melting wire or worse can happen without it.

I have purchased 4 2608's and I am running 2 Kinetik 2400's and one or two 250amp alternators however many I can fit. Kinetic seems to be the way to go or powermaster. the yellowtop up front is fine. The calculation I have always used is every 100 watts draws 10amps <---this is my rule of thumb not fact! so when twenty people read this and say im wrong keep in mind this MY rule of thumb. then I calculate what my car has to offer and go from there. It has never failed me since the early 90's

Have you checked voltage at the connector of the amp while it's playing?

I have always done this: 1. Turn your amp gains all the way down. 2. Turn your radio up about 0-100 @ around 75 ( the goal here is to get all your radio has to offer before distorion!) 3. Then goto your amp and turn your gain level until like M5 said sounds good to you or until you hear distortion and then turn it back a little. This way you have a safety net for your high's and when you get a sub disconnect your high amp's rca's then do the same to your sub amp steps 1-3. You then plug your high amp's rca's back in and you should have a well balanced system that will never hit distortion levels which is what kills speakers faster then anything.

Found out we can buy them directly! E-mail this guy: mikes@maxxsonics.com