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Cr@sh

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Posts posted by Cr@sh

  5. Posted

    Well what you said is right, normally you would just y-split it, but I have done that in the past and I have found that there is signal degridation when splitting. Maybe I'm being just a slightly over reactive on the matter but I have had issue's in the past with y-splitting. My headunit has 4-volt preout for sub so signal matching to the amps will probably be no problem I just know that guy's out there using the "Maxxlink" from hifonics gained upwords of 1 db from using it! I know it sounds impossible but after reading all the threads about it every person who owned one got gains from it. I don't know if anyone remembers Alma gates bronco when it was all ppi they used the ppi "Phase matching" devices to make sure all the subs were moving in sync. Well thats the story with the maxxlink and thats what im looking for is the maxxlink or something like it :)

    amplink_dia.gif

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  7. Posted

    Hello all, well as I stated in my opening post I competed years ago in SPL and as I am building a new setup running four identical amps for my subs, I was curious what else there is to link them for good synchronization? Please do not debate with me or anyone about syncing either my post is only for the purposes of finding out what people are running to link there amps whether it be custom or store bought, I have used both. I have seen people using the maxx link from hifonics but I can't seem to find them as they must be discontinued??? Thanks for all your answers and if you would like to debate this please start another post :)

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  10. Posted

    I am running 4 15"BTL's (SPL) on 4 BXI2608D each capable of 2500-2600 RMS. To the above poster you are correct, the Hifonics amps will do there rated power but not at 12volts, 14.4 up to 16 will give way better numbers and that is dependent on the car's electrical. I havent installed everything yet becuase I'm waiting on the sub's to arrive but I have 2 Kinetik2400's and I will be running two 250amp 16volt alternator's to the Kinetik's.

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  11. Posted

    Alot of variables here. Vehicle size, enclosure size and type, crossover frequency cut off settings. I mean you can make a 10" sub play way below it's intended frequency but the general rule and I mean general is that an 18" would be able to play lower frequency's a little louder or I should say better than a fifteen, but again it depends on subwoofer specifications, enclosure ect...

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  13. Posted

    I think before you decide to spend 5+ grand on a sound system, let alone subwoofers only.... Get a new fkin car. People are going to do nothing but laugh at you when a rattle machine drives by them. A 91 civic? Step up your game..

    I laugh at stuff like this! Keep em coming

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  17. Posted

    Well I have e-mailed the company woth no answer as I understand they are slammed! So any help here would great. I need to know what to order? I want the 4-15"s for spl running 2500 rms to them each and enclosure size for max spl? Thanks

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  20. Posted

    Hey, I'm new here not to 12 volt electronics. I worked for ten years in the industry way back when I was 18-28. I worked for a few shops installing then eventually sales and then wholesale sales. I put a few point driven db drag shows back when it was called "USAC", Anyway I have decided to compete in spl again using fi subs. I had a couple of competition car's from the 90's, a buick regal with 12-12"s hifonics warrior's and two son of colossus amps(ZED Audio) and did a wopping 148 lol. I had a 93 probe with 8-12" Ground zero nuclear on 4 rockford punch 800's that did 149. I couldnt seem to break the 150 barrier as all those boxes were sealed as well and I think definitely held me back.

    My current plan is 4-15" btl each one on 2500 rms obviously ported wall in a 91 civic hatchback DX. I allready have the amps, kinetik 2400's, 250 amp alt's, and so on! I just need the subs.

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