goldmax99

Well I have 6 1/2" MB Quart reference components. The specs say they handle down to 45hz. My HPF on my amp is set to it's lowest setting, 65Hz, and it sounds good to me. Now in regards to my xover DMM testing. Yes I did it with the A/C setting. What would be the proper technique of testing the xover setting with a DMM? Maybe I was doing it wrong.

What would you all recommend for my low pass filter setting for a 12" SSD w/ CC in a sealed 1.5 cubic box. Yes I know it's a big box but I usually prefer the sound of bigger sealed boxes. Also is there a method for checking that the crossover setting you see on an amp is the actual one that is being output by the amp? I thought using the DMM method and seeing the voltage would work but it didn't tell me anything. I played a 50hz tone and moved the LPF around and all my measurements did was the increase in voltage as I lowered the frequency and vice versa. I thought when I hit 50hz on the dial and below that it would flatline in voltage, but it kept increasing as I lowered the frequency.

Good evening all! What frequencies does the SSD12 with copper coils play the best? I have it in a 1.5^3 ft sealed box and I'm not sure what to set the subsonic filter and the low pass crossover at? I'm powering it with a soundstream rubicon 702 which also has another kind of feature, hawkins bass control. I think it's a combination subsonic filter with booster. Any advice would be great.

great idea with the baby powder....thanks.

I'm going to hook up the rubicon 702 to an FI SSD12 with copper coils in a sealed enclosure 1.6 cubic feet. This amp has 700RMS watts. Now what should I set the low pass crossover frequency to? Should I set the subsonic filter? If so to what frequency and should I also set the boost?

Thanks for the thorough response. How should I test for air leaks?

How should I attach it to a '95 Maxima trunk? I've read screwing it with "L" brackets, velcro and even bungy cords. The "L" brackets sound like a great idea but the I don't have a good trunk floor to attach it to. My trunk floor is a loose particle board that's only about 1/8" thick and warped. Below it is the metal trunk and the spare tire. The velcro probably won't work either since my gray floor covering is not actually attached to the particle board but loose on top of the particle board. That leaves the bungy cord. What do you all think? Also I'll be happy to post pics of my install...what do you want to see the sub once it arrives or what I currently have installed? Or both?

I'm stuck between these anyone have any experience with any of these or can give me some advise: 1. Specs say volume is 1.21 but really it's 1.13 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_951_Si...e+-12SQTC-.html 2. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7596_S...-+1H12-1.4.html 3. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8387_S...AY+CARPET-.html Price wise they are all the same, so I just want the best sealed enclosure for good SQ bass.

denim, thanks for all your advise. I pulled the trigger on the big one.

Would a better solution be go big and if I don't like the sound place some wood inside the box to take up volume. The max recommended volume for this sub is 1.6 after displacement. My largest box above is 1.51 so just about at the max. Also, if I'm running 700RMS watts is that enough power for such a big box?

Thanks all for your help. Should I go for the higher internal net volume. #1 is 1.13. #2 is 1.447 and #3 is 1.65. All fit in my car and match my trunk (#1 comes in Gray too!). I care more about it sounding good though than looking good.

please guys...I know this is a DIY type of place, but I don't have the time or the tools to build it. I just installed my whole system myself and that took a lot of time away from my family that I would rather spend with them. Thanks for the confidence though!

bumpity...

Just got this with copper coils. What gauge speaker cable should I use? I was going to feed it 700 watts RMS.

sealed.

Optimal box internal volume is 1.1 after displacement, therefore, before displacement it would be 1.1 + .14 = 1.24 cubic feet. Would it be more advisable to buy a box that is slightly bigger than 1.24 and put something inside of it to displace volume or to buy a box slightly smaller and fill with polyfill? I'm finding boxes with 1.0 cubic feet and 1.5 and not sure which way to go.

please anyone...

Thanks. How about mounting the sub into the box. Would normal wood screws suffice? Finally mounting the box into the trunk. How do you all recommend attaching the box to the trunk. I was planning on placing it as close to the back seat as possible and facing the sub toward the rear of the car.

I recently bought all my cables from hifi sound connection on ebay. I bought Stinger's entry level line called sound quest. I wish I knew about this welding supply place before though!

Before buying from a small new company, I want to people to chime in with their experiences with them. From buying to warranty claims to technical issues you might have had with them. Please give details of the good, bad and ugly.

Thanks I can't wait to add sub to it. It use to have a kicker solobaric 15" but I think I'm going to get an FI Q12 this time.

I need some advice on how to tune my system. I've got the following...yes they are a bit old but in great condition. Alpine CDA-7844 SoundsStream Rubicon 404 and 702 amps MB Quart 6.5" components with MusiComp crossover MB Quart 2 ways with regular crossover for rear. The 404 is driving the mids/highs and the 702 is hooked up and ready for when I buy a sub. My question is how do I got about figuring out what to set the gains at? Also do I need to set the 404 to high pass and 702 to lowpass? If so, what frequency should I set them each at? The HU has a setting for the "bass control center frequency". I can choose 60, 70, 80 100hz. Default is 100. Not sure if I should adjust this. Currently I have the 404 on what's called OUT, which means it's not on high pass or low pass but sending the full range to the crossovers which then feed the mids and tweeters. It sounds good but when I put the volume up the bass sounds rough. Not sure if it's distortion or rattling or something else. I've read on here that buying a test tones CD or the IASCA CD might come in handy.

Thank you all once again. This is an incredible forum.

I'm in the market for a sub but not sure if I need to buy a dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohms voice coil. Furthermore, how should I wire it in series or parallel. What are the pros/cons of a D1 vs a D2? Then what are the pros/cons of wiring up the coils in series vs parallel? I'll be running a 12" sub with a Soundstream Rubicon 702 which does 700 watts RMS X 1 at 2 and 4 ohms bridged. Also does 350W X 1 at 8 ohms bridged.

So for my amp which works at full power 700W at 2 and 4 ohms bridged I should aim for a D2 wired in series since 4 ohms is easier on the amp than 2 ohms.