Jump to content

buggsson

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    76

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by buggsson

  1. Posted

    What about lower still F3s, in the 35Hz neighborhood, isn't there a risk for boominess at those levels? And how high can one go? Would you say you are safe with F3s between 35-45Hz? As you can see, I am quite number fixated at the moment.

    And yes, it's a good suggestion to start out with a larger box to go smaller if needed, I will have that in mind when the time comes.

    0

  2. Posted

    I am aiming for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.8 and an F3 around 40 Hz. For the Rl-p 15" I got the following results, using a web based box calculating program:

    1.

    Qtc = 0.7071

    Vb = 3.5

    F3 = 43.48

    2.

    Qtc = 0.8008

    Vb = 2,38

    F3 = 44.14

    I was just wandering if you seasoned guys know of a way to reduce the F3 a bit further without changing the Qtc too much?

    For a SQ application, do you reckon that Qtc 0.8 will sound better than the standard flat Qtc 0.707?

    Or maybe, the F3s above will be low enough in a VW Passat Variant?

    How low do you want it to go, at the lowest in a car, sealed F3 wise?

    0

  6. Posted

    If one goes by the SS recommendation of 2.5 ft^3 for sealed, where does that land you in way of Qtc and F3?

    And if you want to play around yourself with some software and the rather odd T/S parameters for this driver, how do you go around doing it?

    0

  9. Posted

    I don't think you will find anything that good with less weight for a better price than BB. I would definitely go with BB. If weight is of large concern for you, would you consider make a thin wooden box and then glass fiber or epoxi laminate it, inside out? That way you would get a very stiff box, and reduced weight.

    0

  11. Posted

    If you want managable sizes on your horn, try a tapped horn, can be calculated by hornresp (free) much info can be had in the sub section at diyaudio.com

    With a tapped horn and the right driver, you are in the border zone for what can be done in a trunk. For a larger vehicle, approx 150 cm long and 50 cm diameter will rock

    0

  13. Posted

    Good luck. I've been looking for that for forever. There isn't one.

    There actually might be two. I'll check when I return home from work. There used to be two, Unix like, I never installed any of them, we'll see if they still are around, and I do not know much about features and such.

    0

  15. Posted

    The amp is honestly one of the least important pieces in a SQ install. Speakers are most important as far as equipment goes, but the install itself is infinitely more important than any piece of gear in the car. I'd give the speakers about 6% of the final outcome with the install getting about 93%. The processing about 2.75%. The last 0.25% is divided between the HU, amps and wiring and weighted in that order.

    I haven't realized that the install would be that important, but I do have realized that speakers are much more important than the amps. Then I can relaxe, about the amp. business, I think I have more than enough to choose from, and do some finetuning in the speaker department instead.

    0

  16. Posted

    You are way over analyzing details that aren't measured to any standard. Many of the amps you listed would be fine. Either way, I hope you are spending as much time analyzing your install as you are your gear. That is where the difference will be made.

    That is my problem, being inexperienced, I really do not know how to go about selecting equipment, as you have noticed, but I have a lot of fun during my forays on the internet. That's why I appreciate forums, where more experienced folks can steer me in a more proper direction when needed. And yes, I am very thourough when I do anything, so lots of research will go into the install when I finally get going. Even though, I will not strive to perfection on this one, my first, as I only see it as a primer for my next project, that will be when we get a new car.

    Which part of an install, would you deem to be the most difficult?

    0

  17. Posted

    Specs can be fabricated. You can't really look to them for guidance unless you're comparing two trusted brands.

    What's your budget like for this 4 channel amp?

    Well, I've heard of fabricated data, and what I have been trying to do, is go for brands that I've heard could be trusted, but I do not really know if I've picked the correct ones. I was using numbers because that way I could scan many more products than any other way I could think of, because I like to do some looking by myself to start with and then ask for advice, but I might be better or doing the reverse in the future?

    Anyway, my budget in total, including eventual shipping etc, is around 700 US. I have compiled a smallish list with 4 ch. amps that I think I can afford, or squeze into my budget if I have to. I would really like to get a cheaper amp and put more money on my front speakers (that I don't know which yet). Any thoughts about any of them, pros and cons? (I have only looked for amps that are said to be able to deliver 4x100W into 4 ohm, with the Celestra as an exception, I think I can get to listen to it in a supposedly very nice install.) I might have forgotten to tell, but the amps are for a smallish SQ install.

    The amps are as follow:

    Alpine PDX-4.150

    DigitalDesigns DDC-C4a

    Celestra FA475

    DLS RA40

    Helix P400 Precision

    Mac Audio ZX 4500

    Mac Audio Fearless 4000 (14,4V)

    Massive Audio Pro P800.4

    SPL Dynamics S-6004

    Sundown Audio SAX-100.4

    US Amps. Merlin 43

    US Amps. XT-1600.4

    VIBE BlackBox Stereo 4

    VIBE Slick A4

    If I also could get someone to explain the differences between the pairs from the same manufacturer, I would be highly pleased!

    PS. Why I initially posted this subject was that I had a Carpower amp in mind very much, and then I saw it only had something like 45 dB in channel separation, and to me, that sounds like nothing, please, do correct me if I was wrong!

    0

  18. Posted

    What about channel separation, is it important when shopping for a car amp? If so, minimum value? What am I supposed to look for when choosing among the different makes and models? Which parameters, par price is most important? I would like to get suggested minimum and maximum values where appropriate. Values are for me like a walking stick, I doubt my progress without it/them. Not as face value, but more as a guidance. This is just for the gross sorting phase, to keep the numbers of prospects as low as possible. I am looking for a 4 channel amp, with at least 4 x 100W @ 4 ohm to drive my front system. The amount of information on some home pages are appallingly sparse, I think it's remarkable that they sell any units at all, and then there are some that seem to have it all, how hard can it be? I guess the power supply is of importance, but I've only seen specs once, for me, thats odd.

    0

  19. Posted

    Most boxes flex, and the minimum I would do would be like this: http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/sealed-SDX15-131107.pdf

    I hope the guys at Creative Sound doesn't mind, but their plans are great. Some very serious builder said he never built a box that had a larger unbraced surface of 4". Calculating the shelf bracing is easy, if cumbersome, just measure the volume of each shelf and calculate each cylinder shape that you remove, add them up, and subtract.

    0

  21. Posted · Edited by buggsson

    The size of the enclosure might also play a role in what you choose - real birch ply doesn't come in 4x8 sheets, but smaller square sheets...so if you have something with larger sides than that...

    I don't know where you got that info. from, but it is not correct, at least not east of the atlantic. Here are a couple of examples on what can be had over here:

    1220 x 2440 mm

    1220 x 3050/3660 mm

    1250 x 2500 mm

    1250 x 3000/3600 mm

    1500 x 1500/2400/2500/3000/3600 mm

    1525 x 1525/2440/2500/3050/3660 mm

    Max thickness = 30 mm (21 ply)

    it goes 25,4 mm to an inch.

    Info from here:

    www.wisa.com

    Another aspect of why I do not plan to use MDF is the dust, not healthy at all, and additional alleged advantages, quite a few posts over at diyaudio.com concerns this issue.

    0

  22. Posted

    Anyone know if Trupan might have another name as well? I tried to google something up here in Sweden, but nothing. So one reason to go with Trupan over BB would be less tool wear, is it also easier to work with as when compared to MDF? Additional advantages?

    0

  23. Posted

    I am also into metal so this thing about good mids is very interesting. Can one have good enough results with 6,5" which was my first thought, or is it better to go with an 8"? I was suggested in the beginning of the thread some PA brands like B&C, would those kind of drivers be better for this kind of application, or not? Should I stick with "car" driver makers? An 8", no problem with crossing, to sub or tweeter?

    And for you who likes Arch Enemy, check out Carcass, saw them live at a swedish festival this summer. Michael Amott is playing the guitarr, and they had also borrowed the AE drummer as well as the original drummer wasn't well enough for live gigs yet. Soooooooo good!!!

    I also recommend Entombed and Candlemass, and newer material by Cathedral, and Wolf.

    0
×