DeeCee

if you listen to music constantly with the engine running - ie you listen while driving, then I'd say go with the optima and that would be it. The alt is plenty of charging power for 1 batt. The optima has enough juice for a 3kD. I wouldn't expect you to be playing 135db+ with music anyway as you'd make yourself deaf very fast! Putting the batcap in would suffice for those heavy lows, so yeah, you'd be sweet as a bell with the 3kD without having to upgrade heavily on the electrical side.

can I dissuade you on the monster cable? You really are paying around 200 - 300% more for monster cable than other brands for the sake of a brand name. Money which could be invested into other areas of the system. Tip - cover the utility holes in the door instead of using a mass loader / sound deadening. You want to make the door and enclosure. It will be cheaper initially I use comparable to McD's trays and cut them into shape with a jigsaw If you are concerned about weight, then you really have chosen the wrong hobby lol. A 2.5L engine is plenty to cart around an extra 50 - 100kg of gear. Think of it just as an extra person.. Nix the second component set in the rear doors and chuck in some coaxials. Unless you are taking passengers around all day, then there is no need to give them all the aural pleasure that should be reserved for you

there is no need to change to a specific battery based on what I have said. uh - just read what a batcap 400 is... yeah, you may want to change that if you want to daily your system for long periods of time. Capacity is key for daily systems. Peak release is key for competition systems. So the system is designed for competition? You say car is daily while you don't actually listen to music much? Go with powermaster anyway.. great capacity with low internal resistance

car audio is very different to home audio. It is mainly the difference in near field and far field listening perspectives. As you also touched on, the need for enclosures which are designed around the speakers is also important. A speakers output is the result of the speaker design, sensitivity, build and materials, the enclosure and the source signal amplified cleanly (which sundown amps do with aploomb) Having the power overhead of 30w extra for a 70w speaker will help ensure your music will not distort with dynamic pieces of music (unless you are clipping the hell out of it). As others have suggested, buying quality equipment will increase the listening experience.

depends on whether you are daily or competition. A 120A with extra batteries would be more than sufficient for a single 3kd. Of course, that is depenant on whether you sit up with the car and play music or not. You'd be surprised at the amount of playing time you;d have with just extra batteries. A friend uses a kinetik 2400 in parallel with an optima up front and regularly plays at shows with 4kw on 2x RE SX12s for hours at a time with no major issue. He actually gets asked to turn it down at shows hahaha.

i see enough info in the sig If Gary is running a wall then he can mount an angled wall behind the subs.. ie loading.. depends on room and how fast he can fab a wall for testing.. but you never know i know one local car that gained by doing what I have suggested.

its not running the sub in parallel and series for each sub.. its running parallel and series wiring at the same time if the subs is dual 1ohm, and is paralleled, it runs 0.5ohm. If you ran 2x subs which are paralleled in series, then that = 1ohm

from the real world testing here, the amplifier will output 3.5kW also, you'd want to figure out your sub impedence to get the best potential out of the amp for daily unless you were specifically looking at competition. With 2x dual 2ohm subs, you'd have a 0.5ohm nominal load, but I'd recommend either dual 4 or dual 1 in para/para or para/series respectively to get a 1ohm nominal load. Of course, it all depends on which way you want to swing it.

psuedo loading wall - kinda 4th order, but not

I like the new look of the site.. very 2.0

Meh - i dont' read everything lol.

Check if your RCA barrels are grounding against each other at the headunit and the amp - cover with electrical tape to isolate Check where your RCAs are laid ie near a fuel pump etc - move away Seperate your RCAs min 1cm away from each other along the length of the car. RCAs are AC, so they generate and collapse an EMF field. When the cable is parallel and the fields interfere with each other, then they cause noise.

Jacob, just remember when you resin, let it pool. You get a more uniform layer that way that doesn't require much sanding if any. The process takes a while as you'll have to let the resin set before moving the box to another position for the next wall. For the bottom, double side some duct tape leaving a around half to stick to something. As long as it prevents the majority of resin from leaking then you're good. To get the most uniform layer, you need to gently tip the resin side to side, front to back. You'll get the hand of getting level pretty fast. Not sure what you have for reinforcement inside the box, if any, but look at steel rod to tie top and bottom together if you have top panel flex. Pooling resin on a box wall. Using tape going across the base of the bottom wall to prevent leakage off the end and to the sides.

I think you need to start attaching bungy cords to everything and your body so things do fall all over the place lol

open up the back, take off the plastic shell, spray contact cleaner in it and leave out in the sun. Don't get onto the screen, lense or microphone areas hope the toilet was clean lol

With the front of the enclosure, are you doing anything else in the boot to integrate the shape of the front? Generally for a combination of the Q15s and a 2200w amp, I wouldn't recommend using fibreglass as part of the box due to the potential of flex of the front. If you are integrating the front with the rest of the boot, I'd recommend a cover panel with the shape you want and making the front out of wood. That way you know the box is solid and you have a cover panel that is shaped and contoured the way you want. If you were to fibreglass the front, then you'd want it to be around the same thickness as the rest of the box. Fibreglass will flex too much if too thin, putting stress on the baskets of the subs, unless the fibreglass is the same thickness as the rest of the enclsoure as well as bracing. Because it is that thick, then the installation becomes a higher cost as well. Fibreglass also has a higher resonance than wood, espec when thin so that is also an issue. I've chucked together a diagram to show how I would approach the situation of having an aesthetic cover panel on the front: As you can see, the main box is constructed with a couple of mdf rings to raise the height of the subwoofers. Then a aesthetic cover panel is constructed in the contoured shape that is attached with some brackets on the sides. Its rough but its an easy concept to grasp. Hope that helps DC

depends on the setup, sealed or ported, what tone or music you were playing through, your electrical system and what settings you had on the headunit and on the amp.

as i say to others, put a bit more effort into making an interchangable port system and then fine tuning playing with lengths to get the best result.

There you go To make a system more modular, it takes more work on the calculation side, espec. since you have to rework the volume that the sub is playing into as that will affect power handling ability. Overall, you should be able to figure something out that has the best of a lot of scenarios by being a bit different and making things interchangable.

I range my ports between 12 - 16 inches per cu ft. The reason is that if the port is too large, then the sound can be very drony if there is a reasonable amount of internal resonance inside the box. Using a flared port will decrease port noise. You could potentially lose output if the port is too large. The sub will essentially think its playing free air. Finding a good ratio of port to box with given sub and power is a fine balance. Look at making a modular system with a removable port. That will allow you to change up and tailer a sound for competition and sq and daily street beating as long as the box can accomodate the various port lengths. Tip - lower tuning isn't always better I frequently tune my boxes to 35 - 37hz instead of the more common 30-32hz. The reason being that it offers a slightly higher output while being tighter than a lower tuned box and not sound drony and hollow.

Good effort You may want to change your saw blade though. Wood burn on the sides means a blunt blade.

For fibreglass to be used to reduce flex, you'd have to be using around 10mm worth minimum and even then it still wouldn't be that effective. Its a neglible addition that shouldn't be advocated as its the wrong way to build a box. It is also not a cost effective solution, would reduce the box size and change the port calucations. Its one thing to increase air flow within a box. Its another thing to try a brace it with bad knowledge. You also have to consider the bonding between the mdf and the fibreglass Fibreglass and resin needs a rough surface and even holes to ensure the best bond. Just slapping in fibreglass and resin doesn't work.

No fibreglass will not help to reduce flex. If the box did flex, the fibreglass would most likely crack. Definitely use the bracing

45's in the corners decreases dead areas at the intersection of the box walls. bracing would be side wall to side wall and most likely top to bottom if you have 4 subs on top. check the fisher customs boxes in the manufacturer section for ways to brace the box. Otherwise chuck a couple of 2x2"s or threaded rod in there to brace.

its solidworks with cosmos floworks That picture was just using the floworks express and I have to learn to use the normal floworks, but it should be interesting to model up some common boxes and see how they work.