Ndnkobra

checked the wire today, nothing looks wrong with it. even unplugged the back part of the wire from the fuse, and the smell still remains. so if there is no current going through the wire to cause the smell, what could the problem be?

the amp is an elemental designs nine.1 and the wire is 4 gauge. i'll check out the 4 gauge wire tomorrow and let you guys know what i see

Hey whats up guys, i'm here to talk about my future setup and see if you guys can give me some pointers and a good direction on where to go. First off, i'd like to thank FI for the safe delivery of my subs. They came here with no problem . I'd also like to let everyone know that i am very satisfied with the 2 12" D1 Q's that i ordered, they exceeded my expectations. Quality is great, sounds great, everything is great! FI all the way for quality products. Now onto the my current setup 2 12" Qs running off of a single ED Nine.1 amp (both subs running at about 600 watts a piece.) Subs are placed in a pre-made JL Audio PowerWedge Box (dont know the dimensions) Now i'm very content at the moment with what i have right now, my ear likes what it hears. When i first heard these woofers go the first thought that went through my head was "wow, kind of underpowered and loud, these are amazing" I should probably stop praising these subs so much and get on to my point . Well in the future if i ever feel the need to feed these subs more power, what could be the limit of them? The website says they have an RMS of 1000 watts, but i would like to know if i'm putting the woofers in any danger? well you'd put ANY woofer in real danger if you're not careful at any amount of watts.But what i'm really trying to say is even if i'm careful, am i feeding these woofers too much power even at the recommended RMS? I read the topic below mine about how the guy blew his 15" Q (sorry btw ). But assuming that i dont fumble around with the volume control so much, the subs should be okay, right? P.S: I'm not quite sure if the amp is giving each woofer 600 watts, might be lower than that. Is there any way i could check how many watts the amp is sending to them? thanks!

Ah i understand. So RMS isnt a recommendation and is there to tell you how much power you can have before you fry your subs. But i'm still kind of puzzled on how other people have same subs but are feeding them up to 1500-2000. i know you CAN do that with any sub, but won't your subs take a dive fairly quick if you do? Those people probably know what they are doing, but i'm a car audio noob and i'd just like to learn before i go do anything . And for the other guy i got the regular Q's. I'm not exactly sure what BP is or does, but i was looking around the forum and read somewhere that the Q's deliver without that option, but i'd still like to know what it is.

Hey guys, i need help and some kind of solution in securing my box in the trunk. its a premade JL audio box called a powerwedge, so the box is shaped...like a wedge in the back! The problem is the design of my trunk, since it has "bumps" on the sides, making it so the box wont fit directly straight in. Think of the box sitting on a slight decline, like a car going down a steep hill. The problem with this is that the box has already fallen over frontwards because a lot of the weight is sitting right in the front, and i dont want to damage the subwoofers (2 12" FI Q). I've already propped the front part of the box with 8 mini carpets, but i'm afraid that will only work as a temporary solution since i'm pretty sure the box will fall over again. If anyone else has an idea on how to tackle this problem, i'm open to all suggestions. Thanks! If you guys require pictures on how the trunk looks in order to suggest a solution, just let me know.

Well here's the final layout guys, let me know what you think. Subwoofers: 2 12" Fi Q, No Bp, Dual 2 Amplifier: Elemental Designs Nine.1; Wired to 1ohm so both speakers are running 600 watts each. Enclosure: 1.3 cu ft sealed box. Now its very embarrassing to mention this but everything else in the car is stock (The HU, the door speakers). The reason for this is that this system is going into an 08 accord, and for people who have looked at the factory stereo of the accord(LX model), its kind of difficult to find a HU that will "integrate" into the car without it looking like total crap. It looks very nice the way it is, but its just so damn complicated making the system easier to work with. This is because i cannot control my ipod straight from the factory stereo itself, the car only has an aux input. I've been thinking i could use an adapter to connect to the back of stereo, but that idea is down the drain because of the steering wheel control to the deck. So my only hope now is to get an Ipod wireless remote to switch songs without having to hassle with the ipod itself. Let me know if you guys need to anything else about the layout, any suggestions are more than welcome. And if i posted this in the wrong place, my fault.

one more thing guys, i know this isnt the place to ask this but i was was wondering how the dual 1 subwoofers would wire? series or parallel?

hey guys, i'm here to get some help with deciding whether or not to get a dash kit for an 08 accord for a new HU, but i'm having trouble seeing if the top screen and the steering wheel controls will still be active after putting in a new HU. here's what the inside of the car looks like. And here's the scosche kit Looks like it will fit in nicely, but i'm more concerned about whether or top screen where the radio station, tracks etc. are shown, will stay active or will be all shown through the new HU. Thanks for the help guys.

ah dual ones, thanks guys. and about the scosche thing, they DO have an adapter but its kind of weird. i will put up a thread in a different forum for help. but i will make sure to get dual 1 subwoofers

Okay, i basically have 2 questions here. The first question is about my factory stereo and connecting an amp in a 2008 Honda Accord. I'm not sure but i'm hoping someone on these forums know if i can connect the amp directly to the stereo itself, or will i need a product such as JL Audio CleanSweep adapter to connect the amp to and then run that to the back of the deck? I know it would be easier to get a whole new deck but that isnt an option right now. My second question is that this car does not come in with an ipod input! it does come with an auxiliary input but i would like to control the ipod straight from the dash and not hassle around with the ipod. Does anyone know if Honda can customize this and put an ipod input in or will i have to use a pesky adapter to connect to the back of the factory stereo? Once again, getting a new deck would avoid all these problems and be easier but it isnt an option right now . One being that if i remove the deck and something happens in the process, the warranty is void. And the other reason being that the factory stereo looks very good to begin with, and replacing it with a whole new HU would not be appealing (not my decision). Thank you for any suggestions you guys give. Sorry about the placing on this topic :X

Hey guys, i was wondering if anyone has worked with with 2 12" Q's and know what the lengths of a good sealed enclosure would be? There are probably plenty of great types of enclosures for these subwoofers and i am willing to consider all of them. I am also trying to outperform 2 12" JL W6's and i know if i'm going to beat them i need to consider the size of the enclosure i use. Thanks for the help guys. P.S. I will also get a picture of my trunk later so i can show you what i can work with, and possibly get the dimensions of the box the JL's are in so if anyone can determine if the Fi's will beat them out if they were placed in the same exact box.

When i say beat them, i mean in terms of a louder bass. Distortion also comes into play but i think JL is known for least distortion.

okay guys, i am fairly new to the whole subwoofer thing and i need a bit of help getting myself started. First off, i need to know the differences between duals (1) (2) (4). My friend is helping me with most of this, and he tells me that i need subwoofers that come in a dual 4 ohm coil so he can wire them up to 1 ohm. I am planning on getting 2 12" Subwoofers, either Soundsplinters rl-p in a dual 4 ohm (if i knew what that meant) or the Fi Q's, but i'm having a hard time figuring out if they can be wired up to 1 ohm. Whether i get the rl-p's or q's they will be both placed in the same exact sealed enclosure, and will be wired to an elemental designs amp that is running 1200 watts. Thanks for the help

yes i have just recieved news from mike looks like i'll just have to be patient until he gets the subwoofers in stock!

Hey whats up guys, i'm new to these forums. I've noticed that the soundsplinter website has gone slightly inactive and i was wondering if there is anything going on with the company right now. I've put in an order in for 2 12" dual 2 Rl-p subwoofers and it was said that i would recieve confirmation within 1 buisness day. This is all fine but i've realized that i require dual 4's rather than dual 2's. When i went back to the website, it seemed that i was out of luck that the dual 4 versions of the subwoofers are out of stock . I was hoping i could cancel my order for the dual 2s and get a confirmation on the dual 4s but i have not recieved an email yet for my first order, and i cannot put a second order if the subwoofers are not in stock . Sorry for being such an eager beaver but i am very excited to buy these subwoofers, i've heard many great reviews about them and i want to get them asap. Does anyone know how long it will take for the dual 4 versions to restock? Thanks for your time and help