Ndnkobra

Simple question: Did the first generation Fi speakers (specifically the Q model) have sewn in leads?

I have an elemental designs nine.1 amplifier, 1200W @ 1 ohm rated at 12.5V. 230 plus shipping

Hey everyone/Fi Staff. I just took a look at the current version of the Q model sub in comparison to the one I bought 3 years ago and man do I see some changes. I still have my first Q and am in love with it, but I wanted to know what changes have been made from the first version. First thing I noticed is that Fi has been feeding their subs mass gainers. My 12" Q was 30 pounds when I bought it, and now it's 42 pounds. I'm assuming the magnet is now able to handle more power along with other things. Also, is the cone design exactly the same between the first and second generation Q? The reason I'm asking is because in case I ever need to buy a recone, I'll know that I'll be able to do it. Still in love with the first version of the sub, and it's still running like the day it was delivered. Props to Fi and their eye for consistant quality, and anyone who is ran a first generation Q and upgraded to a second generation, please have some input on any differences you notice. Thanks!

Hey everyone Just a really simple question. The enclosure measurements for Fi speakers, are they measured before woofer displacement? Just need to clarify so I can build an optimal box with maximum air space.Thanks again!

Hey everyone, I'm looking to give this bad boy a home since he's not doing too much nowadays. I'm going off to grad school and this thing has just been asleep. It's a 1 ohm DVC, and the coils are still as fresh as the day they were shipped. There aren't any special options on this thing. Also as you can see, there are a few scratches on the magnet and a bit a rigid edge and smudging on the bottom of the magnet. It's not a bad edge and does not affect the performance of the woofer at all There's also a teeny scuff on the surround, but nothing that hinders the performance. This is a first generation Q that I've only used for a month, but I really need to pay for books this semester. I'm looking for $235 shipped. Let me know if you're interested, it would sure as hell mean a lot.

Yes sir, I actually have a hard copy of it. Took a look, stepped outside and everything is good to go following dbsupras advice. Sound quality is phenominal in comparison to the stock deck.

Hey everyone, I just bought a used Alpine CDA 9885 and I've connected and soldered all the connections together. When I put it in, it turns on and I can go through any of the functions, but whenever I adjust the volume knob, no sound at all is being produced by my speakers. I cannot pick up any sound through the radio, nor the Ipod function, though it will show that it is playing the track on the Ipod. Anyone have any possible ideas on what could've happened? I have already checked my soldered connections, and they seem solid, so I'm not sure what else it might be. Thanks again!

Dude, it worked. You deserve ALL the cookies in the world. The IC Power was set to off, as soon as I turned it on, wala magic.

Hmm, interesting. I'm going to have to take your word for it and really dig deep within the options, because this is a fairly new deck to me and I'm struggling to navigate it. I guess it takes a while. I will look for the "Ic power" option though. If I cannot find it, someone is gonna have to hold my hand through this process, haha.

Ah okay, and I would do that just by putting the red lead of the multimeter within the factory harness of each negative and positive wire of each speaker terminal, and touching the chassis ground to see if a beep will go off. And I'm assuming if I do hear beeping, that's a sign that my speaker wire(s) are grounding out?

I'll keep looking around in the cavity of the compartment for potential reasons on why there is no sound being produced. I really don't want to assume the worst that I was sold as shoddy deck, considering that everything else works on it.

I tried to see if there was any AC going across one speaker, the rear right speaker off the head unit harness, and the DMM didn't pick up anything. I would imagine it would be the same for the other speaker wires as well so I didn't test those.

Haha, what a mis-read. But yes, I made sure that the female harness was soldered according to color, and that they matched accordingly to the factory harness. Everything seems to be in check. I can see that my factory OEM ground on the chassis is clean, so it doesn't seem to be a grounding issue. The only thing left could potentially be the fuse, but I don't see how it could be the fuse if the radio still manages to turn on. And no, I do not think there is a switch where I can output strictly to the RCA outputs. I don't think the CDA 9885 has that capability.

Ah thanks. So I went out to see if there was any power being put out by the RCA outputs from the headunit, and none of the sets of outputs were putting any reads on the DMM. Would that conclude that something is wrong internally within the radio, or could there be another possible solution? That, or I hooked up the DMM wrong.

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, I do not have an amplifier hooked up to any source of power at the moment. Could you suggest another way to test what the problem may be? I'm leaning towards the fact that it may be the head unit itself, because I find it kind of odd that none of the speakers are putting out any sound. I turn the volume up all the way on the unit, but it's all just dead silence.

I agree with this notion of liking cookies. The best type of cookie I have ever had was a homemade soft baked chocolate chip cookie. And yes, I am attempting to lead this thread more off track than it already was. Cookies anyone?

Hey everyone, I was just pulling the OEM radio out of my 03 civic, and I was matching up the wires in accordance to my female harness. Everything matches perfectly, EXCEPT within the male harness, there is an extra wire that is red. Here is what the male harness diagram looks like: Radio 12v: white/red Radio ground: black Radio Ignition: yellow/red Radio Illumination: red/black I'm going to skip labeling the speaker wires, because that's all correct. All of that is correct, and this red wire is located directly under the red/black wire which is the illumination wire for the radio. Could this red wires function possibly be the illumination ground? If that's the case, then I'll have to ground that wire in order to have my aftermarket radio dim. The corresponding wire on the female harness is orange/white, which is also a second illumination wire, but I don't see why I cant use that as a ground if I need to. Thanks again everyone.

Alright thanks. So I'll just leave that red wire alone and not ground anything out since the red/black wire is already connected straight to the orange illumination wire. I'm guessing that the red/black wire has a constant 12v for illumination, while the red probably has a variability in voltage. I'll stick with the red/black.

Hey everyone, just a simple and quick question. Is there any real difference in the two types of fuses other than the fact ANL typically has a higher current rating on it? I was wanting to use a 120A AGU fuse for my setup since the max draw of my amp is 120A, but I just wanted to know if there is any real difference between the two. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I have a like new Alpine CDE-121 HU that I've only used for about 3 weeks. There are no scratches on the faceplate, and everything is fully functional. Includes the trim ring, mounting cage and wiring harness. Looking at $80 with shipping included. Let me know if you're interested.

Most people who I've talked to don't use the bass boost or output level settings. I personally don't either. Most likely the reason being is that the amplifiers we run feed enough power to our subs and don't require that extra power. However, if you would like to use those settings, set all your desired levels BEFORE setting the gains. As for feeding a clipped signal, because you're pushing in extra power from the bass booster, it will reflect in the AC voltage. It'll be higher to start with than if you were to start with your EQ settings at 0. There is a formula that determines the AC voltage depending how much power you're pushing out at a certain impedance. It's hard to say how much your HU will affect that voltage with the increase in bass booster. What is the power and impedance you will be running your amp, and how many speakers will you be powering?

Hey guys, I just wanted your opinions on what enclosure would be better in terms of "loudness". That may be defined differently for some of you, but I'm looking for a low boomier type of bass. I'm not sure what setup I have planned for will be loudest though. Here's what I got so far: Setup 1: 1 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft ported enclosure @ 32 hz, running 900w @ 2 Ohms. OR Setup 2: 2 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft sealed enclosure, both wired down to run 600w each @ 1 ohm. The reason I don't do both speakers in a ported enclosure is because I don't have 4-5 cubes of space to offer in my car trunk. Gotta put the groceries somewhere, you know? Anyways, I'd love to hear some thoughts and opinions on what would be best. Thanks again!

Hey everyone, I was just wondering about the capability of a USB splitter operating off of a head unit. I'm specifically talking about an Alpine CDA-9886 but this would apply to any HU that has a rear USB port. The reason I'm asking this is because if I ever wanted to use a flash drive rather than an Ipod. It's not practical to use a flash drive for those kinds of decks. I'd be getting a 1 male input/4 female output cable, but I have to know if it would work first. Thanks again for the help!

Ah thanks! The extender sounds like a much more easier idea and less of a hassle. I don't expect many head units with rear ports that have a built in switch interface for usb devices.

I just had one of those slap myself moments....Thank you, my good sir.