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Ndnkobra

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Posts posted by Ndnkobra


  1. I used to repair a bunch of these with no sound problems. 9 out of 10 times the "power ic" was set to off in the menu.

    It is used to turn off the internal amp so it would decrease noise in the processing if you are using RCA output only. Atleast that is what they told me when I was in alpine school haha.

    Very few output ic's actually blow unless you just get completely stupid with it. They were really well designed.

    Dude, it worked. You deserve ALL the cookies in the world. The IC Power was set to off, as soon as I turned it on, wala magic.


  2. I used to repair a bunch of these with no sound problems. 9 out of 10 times the "power ic" was set to off in the menu.

    It is used to turn off the internal amp so it would decrease noise in the processing if you are using RCA output only. Atleast that is what they told me when I was in alpine school haha.

    Very few output ic's actually blow unless you just get completely stupid with it. They were really well designed.

    Hmm, interesting. I'm going to have to take your word for it and really dig deep within the options, because this is a fairly new deck to me and I'm struggling to navigate it. I guess it takes a while. I will look for the "Ic power" option though. If I cannot find it, someone is gonna have to hold my hand through this process, haha.


  3. I'd unhook all speaker wires at the harness at the radio first. As said if the wire is grounded or a speaker is blown it will put the radio into protect.

    You can also just unplug the radio and check each speaker wire (vehicle wires) continuity to ground using ur DMM to find out if you have a grounded speaker wire.

    Ah okay, and I would do that just by putting the red lead of the multimeter within the factory harness of each negative and positive wire of each speaker terminal, and touching the chassis ground to see if a beep will go off. And I'm assuming if I do hear beeping, that's a sign that my speaker wire(s) are grounding out?


  4. Okay are you using the speaker wires directly from the head-unit to your speakers? If so, then you need to test those wires, and not the rcas.

    I should have been more clear.

    I tried to see if there was any AC going across one speaker, the rear right speaker off the head unit harness, and the DMM didn't pick up anything. I would imagine it would be the same for the other speaker wires as well so I didn't test those.


  5. You sure the speakers are connected to it with the appropriate wire going to the appropriate place? Is there a switch on the headunit to only output to RCA's and not speaker outs?

    I read your thread wrong first:

    Head Unit not giving any head

    Haha, what a mis-read. But yes, I made sure that the female harness was soldered according to color, and that they matched accordingly to the factory harness. Everything seems to be in check. I can see that my factory OEM ground on the chassis is clean, so it doesn't seem to be a grounding issue. The only thing left could potentially be the fuse, but I don't see how it could be the fuse if the radio still manages to turn on. And no, I do not think there is a switch where I can output strictly to the RCA outputs. I don't think the CDA 9885 has that capability.


  6. Sorry I presumed you were using an amp.

    You could use a DMM on the outputs behind the head-unit, and see if they are indeed sending power out. Set the DMM to ac.

    Ah thanks. So I went out to see if there was any power being put out by the RCA outputs from the headunit, and none of the sets of outputs were putting any reads on the DMM. Would that conclude that something is wrong internally within the radio, or could there be another possible solution? That, or I hooked up the DMM wrong.


  7. Use a 3.5mm to rca connector, and plug your ipod directly into your amp.

    Turn the volume up on the ipod, is there any sound from your speakers? If not then your problem isn't the headunit signal, but rather the amp or speaker connections.

    Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, I do not have an amplifier hooked up to any source of power at the moment. Could you suggest another way to test what the problem may be? I'm leaning towards the fact that it may be the head unit itself, because I find it kind of odd that none of the speakers are putting out any sound. I turn the volume up all the way on the unit, but it's all just dead silence.


  8. Hey everyone, I just bought a used Alpine CDA 9885 and I've connected and soldered all the connections together. When I put it in, it turns on and I can go through any of the functions, but whenever I adjust the volume knob, no sound at all is being produced by my speakers. I cannot pick up any sound through the radio, nor the Ipod function, though it will show that it is playing the track on the Ipod. Anyone have any possible ideas on what could've happened? I have already checked my soldered connections, and they seem solid, so I'm not sure what else it might be. Thanks again!


  9. cookiemonster.gif

    I agree with this notion of liking cookies. The best type of cookie I have ever had was a homemade soft baked chocolate chip cookie. And yes, I am attempting to lead this thread more off track than it already was. Cookies anyone?


  10. Hey everyone, I was just pulling the OEM radio out of my 03 civic, and I was matching up the wires in accordance to my female harness. Everything matches perfectly, EXCEPT within the male harness, there is an extra wire that is red. Here is what the male harness diagram looks like:

    Radio 12v: white/red

    Radio ground: black

    Radio Ignition: yellow/red

    Radio Illumination: red/black

    I'm going to skip labeling the speaker wires, because that's all correct.

    clear.gif

    All of that is correct, and this red wire is located directly under the red/black wire which is the illumination wire for the radio. Could this red wires function possibly be the illumination ground? If that's the case, then I'll have to ground that wire in order to have my aftermarket radio dim. The corresponding wire on the female harness is orange/white, which is also a second illumination wire, but I don't see why I cant use that as a ground if I need to. Thanks again everyone.


  11. Hey everyone, I have a like new Alpine CDE-121 HU that I've only used for about 3 weeks. There are no scratches on the faceplate, and everything is fully functional. Includes the trim ring, mounting cage and wiring harness. Looking at $80 with shipping included. Let me know if you're interested.

    Snapshot_20120913.jpg


  12. Hey everyone/Fi Staff. I just took a look at the current version of the Q model sub in comparison to the one I bought 3 years ago and man do I see some changes. I still have my first Q and am in love with it, but I wanted to know what changes have been made from the first version. First thing I noticed is that Fi has been feeding their subs mass gainers. My 12" Q was 30 pounds when I bought it, and now it's 42 pounds. I'm assuming the magnet is now able to handle more power along with other things.

    Also, is the cone design exactly the same between the first and second generation Q? The reason I'm asking is because in case I ever need to buy a recone, I'll know that I'll be able to do it. Still in love with the first version of the sub, and it's still running like the day it was delivered. Props to Fi and their eye for consistant quality, and anyone who is ran a first generation Q and upgraded to a second generation, please have some input on any differences you notice. Thanks!


  13. Most people who I've talked to don't use the bass boost or output level settings. I personally don't either. Most likely the reason being is that the amplifiers we run feed enough power to our subs and don't require that extra power. However, if you would like to use those settings, set all your desired levels BEFORE setting the gains.

    As for feeding a clipped signal, because you're pushing in extra power from the bass booster, it will reflect in the AC voltage. It'll be higher to start with than if you were to start with your EQ settings at 0. There is a formula that determines the AC voltage depending how much power you're pushing out at a certain impedance. It's hard to say how much your HU will affect that voltage with the increase in bass booster. What is the power and impedance you will be running your amp, and how many speakers will you be powering?


  14. Hey everyone, I was just wondering about the capability of a USB splitter operating off of a head unit. I'm specifically talking about an Alpine CDA-9886 but this would apply to any HU that has a rear USB port. The reason I'm asking this is because if I ever wanted to use a flash drive rather than an Ipod. It's not practical to use a flash drive for those kinds of decks. I'd be getting a 1 male input/4 female output cable, but I have to know if it would work first. Thanks again for the help!


  15. Good call. It'll have to be in the next system upgrade within the future when I decide to buy a new deck. The Alpine Cde-121 that I bought, unfortunately only has 1 set of outputs in the back which will be dedicated to my monoblock amp for the sub. But if I'm going to upgrade in the future, I may as well save up to do it right. Any suggestions on your part?


  16. Hey everyone, I just wanted to get some opinions on these speakers for my fronts (6 1/2") and rears (5 1/4").

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HITRON-5-25-5-1-4-SPEAKERS-4-WAY-PAIR-300W-HS-5254-CHEAPER-THEN-KENWOOD-ALPINE-/120972470424?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item1c2a856898

    Now before anyone says anything about the "max" power RMS rating, I'm not looking for that. I'm just looking to replace factory speakers without any hook ups to amplifiers or anything of the sort. The reason being is that the ones that I have now with the factory radio already play distorted, and I'm almost 99% sure that when I install a new HU in that they will pop. If anyone has any other suggestions or speakers they can direct me to, that would be great. I'm on a budget and not looking for anything fancy. Thanks again!

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