Saint211

If I remember correctly I ended up having to go with 11 1/8th of an inch for the cutout.

Im assuming your doing this in a Scion. I would try a crx style box.... subs up port back. For daily application do something along the lines of 1.5 tuned to 36. For SPL, try something like 1.7 tuned to low/mid 40s. The 1" MDF will be nice, 2" baffle will be good as well.

I have a similar setup and you should not daisy chain the two sub amps if each one drives it own woofer. You want to split the signal prior to reaching the amps and feed each amp an identical signal. Also, use the same brand RCA's for these lines. Also, you must gain match the amps with a DMM or other method, no eyeballing it in this application. Also, check the wiring to the subs and the box. Make sure the wire to one sub is the same as to the other, because if one has less strand = more power loss to that sub. Especially with sending a woofer this much power, you want to use 8 AWG wire, 10 at the very least. Think about it, in theory at 1 ohm 1500 watts is 38.72 volts on the DMM. Well if its pushing at one ohm impedence, your in theory still sending out 38.72 amps of current. Of course, there box rise... but still.

For loud daily driving I have mine in 1.65 cubes after port displacement, driver displacement, triple baffle and bracing. It is a regular slot port/l-port tuned to 38 hz. This thing works like a charm. The sub is on 2krms. Still plays low, sounds very responsive for a ported spl woofer. I can also still burp it with decent results in this box. With both shades in and maybe a bit more power im hoping for 150. Hope this helps.

Yes assuredly, once I do my next order with deka, Ill feel safe putting my second nightshade in. I literally just finished building a box. Oh, I had a question for you, what kind of gains did you see sealing those aq's into the cabin?

^^^Sounds like something I would do thor. I dont think the world is ready for us central new yorkers.

Nevermind, sorry, I kepy skipping right over the t/s specs without even realizing. I can make them fit.... muahaha

Hmmmmmmmm

Awesome looking 8" moofaz! Where can I find ts parameters for this thing? frequency range and rms power handling would be enough though. I wanna know how well this would work as a midbass driver in my front doors. Will it do well in a free air environment?

Yeah the nightshades dont need terribly large boxes. Jacob reccomended some guidelines for me for the 12" nightshade. I ended up doing 1.65 cubes tuned to 38 hertz with internal bracing and a triple baffle. Its absolutely incredible how well it does.

Yeah, the big three helps tremendously in some cars. In other cars it only helps a little. But like they always say, your electrical system is only as strong as its weakest link. Stock my car was charging at a very unsteady 13.7/13.8. When I added my new batteries it went to a steadier 14. Then I did the big three in all 0 gauge and it will charge at 14.5 in the mornings and once it warms up, 14.2 or so. It is extremely steady once it settles in. The difference playing full tilt it nice too. Even if you did dedicated ground runs like I did, the beefier grounds under the hood still help because all the accessories in the car still use the chassis. you'll notice an immediate difference especially with the upgraded battery ground and upgraded alternator line

Mean machine series is good. Super sport is ok. The Street machine series.... aka new stuff is rated peak, it does half the ratings in RMS. Maxxsonics isnt terrible, its just that they know how to market chit. I dont know why they made autotek peak rated because they already targeted the beginner market with the lower crunch models. Crunch is the really cheap, peak rated brand targeted towards the begginer audience, they have their big model in the gp3000pro. MB quart is a "high-end" brand where they are trying to hold up the name for quality... hifonics is the middle of the road with the bxi line and towards competitors with the xxv line. But the changes to autotek just dont make sense

I have a few 12" nightshades with the options: cooling/longer coil/ slightly harder spider pack They handle well over 1500 rms. The one I have set up right now is getting around 2000 rms and can take that straight up, or eq'ed. It really wants a little more IMHO

just so some newbies dont getconfused and injure themselves.... ^^^^^^ he means the alternator case to chassis, not the charging post!

Yeah guys its "only" 24 kilowatts. Eh well, guess the cats out of the bag on my build now jacob! Just kidding, maybe in my dreams though

has Night Terror been reccomended? Man I had 4 night terrors.... man this setup will give you night terrors

Lot of generalizations in this thread. Not everyone in the world are car audio junkies like us. Obviously these "bad apples" are installing cause they were needed for the job. Maybe you should have applied? I could go on and on about this, but i'm not A funny note, is for every installer/salesman that thinks he knows it all, there are thousand of customers who "heard from ______" and think they know everything in the world. There isn't one person in the world that knows everything about car audio. And you must be crazy going and broadcasting to everyone and their mother whats in your car.

Hey jacob, what kind of crossovers will the 250.2 have? will it have crossovers so it can be used in a high powered component setup or will it be a sub amp? Or both?

A 100.2 will get your comps loud at 3 ohm. But I cant wait to get my hands on a 250.2.... i hope it has a crossover like the 100.4d

sorry i dont wanna weed through the whole post, are those all hard spiders?

wow look at that beefy ass spider pack

How underrated is the 100.2? I saw jacob post that it is extremely underrated... I was just curious if anyone has any figures.