Punkeyboozter

what a BS thread, but to go with the flow ill have to say the motor because tooling it from a block of metal aint cheap. The technology behind it and all the research might be worth more in some cases....then again the loudspeaker design didnt change much over the past 50 40 years

Well this wknd I got so pissed off... you know the type where you want to distroy the world. Anyway I through a remote(big TV remote) and the bastard thing smached into my sub busting the dustcap and slightly denting the top of the coil. Now Im going to try and fix it but need to know if i can use a domed dustcap where the previous one was inverted. will it change the sound/performance alot? was planning to use it for an SPL project as this budget sub gets louder then my BL and can take the abuse. It cant take a direct hit from a remote though. would appreciate your imput.

that sub that fatjoe linked up should kick soem serious butt... Here is a link of some work that Ive done on my opti..maybe a bit of the topic but you might enjoy it non the less http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=26829

well there can be plenty of things holding you back. I have used both the Fi BL and the OPTI subs. The opti cant be beat for value while the BLs sound nicer. I would have to say that my OPTI seems to get louder then my BL though.

For those who can still remember or care... I have managed to source an RF dustcap to repair the sub. Here it is after some cleaning up ....inverted? ....Or domed? Here she is all ready to role...I liked the inverted look better..it seems nicer then original as well.

http://*****.com/home/ trail and error is a good way to go about things but dont stick to just one way or the other try and mix and match whatever you try.

every car has its own freq at which it peaks and that even differ from the same cars and model, while charts can be useful its still best to work out your own. the first peak is where you get cabin gain where the second one normally much higher but you dont get the bennegit of cabin gain and have a narrow freq to work with... normally close to the 50's Tune your box slighly below this freq. I believe there is a good step by step guide on how to work out your cabin gain on SMD forum. Some things take a bit of changing to get right as no two cars are the same. hope this helps some-what

not that i want to put a stick in your spokes but... Newbie Group: Members Posts: 25 Joined: 27-February 09 Member No.: 7,692 Any-way speakers are always blown by over powering them. If distortion blew speakers then we would not have rock music. Actually distorion can sound good if done right. Any how with clipping your amp will pull more power and if its a good amp potentially put out 1/4-1/2 more power if your amp does not go first...This could also blow your sub(1/4-1/2 more then rated power) <-- that is if your amp is evenly matched to your sub, imagine what can happen if you use a bigger amp. Also, you would need the electrical to back it up. Speakers are dumb and will do what you tell them..If you give them little power they will give little output and visa versa. There are a lot more to it, but hope my confusing attempt to try and explain it helped some-what.

Do you think that two Shiva-x's would be too much for my room, with a O Audio 500 watt amp, or something similar? I think what I am going to do, is get the Dayton SA240 240 watt amp with the Shiva-x sub, then ask for the O Audio amp for Christmas, and maybe another Shiva-x, if one isn't quite good enough, which I hope one will be. Thanks As rush said, you are WAY out of your price range at that point realisticaly. If you have more money let us know. Is there a reason you want more than one sub? If you have a valid point we can change it up and work with that too. In your situation, it would probably just make things much more complex, and end up being less logical. We want to help you, but you're changing the rules. It's easy to get excited, and shoot for the stars and go up and up and up but eventualy you run out of cash. Why don't you tell us what the absolute max for budget is. Let us know if that includes the box or just the woofer and electronics. Well, the price range that I set was just what I could spend, I didn't even think about anyhing else like gifts and stuff. And I just firgured two subs would better since you can split the load between them, so it's not stressing one so much. The absolute max is $500, i guess, but would like to keep it below $425 if possible. And I would have to save untill around February of next year, and my birthday will help also. And that is without the box and accessories, just the electronics. What can you do with this? What sub, amp, and crossover, and box type and size would you recommend? Thanks for the help. Sounds like you need a job. Its best to learn early on that its not always good to rely on other people. just my 0.02 cents

based on your questions id go with a single 12 in a sealed box simply because it is the easiest to get right. why a 12'' well seeing that you mention 2 12's somewhere before you can always get another one should you require it but a single 12 can make plenty off boom when corner loaded.

So, with the sub facing down is the best way to go? And, does anyone else have something hopefully good also to say about Dayton subs? I just really want to make sure that it will have what I want...not that I don't trust you, rushnrun cause I do. Does it matter that the Dayton woofers are not in the sub section? I will also have my current sub (front-firing, side port) in a corner. I think this is where it sounds the best. Thanks enough said, now start building. your next question should be on box design. Sounds like you want a do it all setup..as mentioned by some of the other dudes... tune in the region of 30 hz and call it the day.

make sure you have enough space for beer regardless of what you get.

Sealed, but it was in like 3cubic ft or something HUGE for a single 12. Wasn't a demo car just happens that it has a DLS 3way front stage and sub, powered by old school RF amps that had been modded. Jono was it modded or did it die and someone fixed it?

they actually look very nice

maybe something wrong with my PC, cant see any pics cought-cought.

how much for a duscap for a 12'' woofer with a bit of epoxy shipped to Singapore? I need to fix one of my old non Fi subs.

if you are going to college Id think all you need is condoms

2000RMS is 2000RMS no matter what the impedence load. So basically you can get any amp that will do a true 2000RMS at 1 ohms. I think a single saz-3000D the gives you plenty of power for burps and enough juice (take it easy ) for every day use.

just back of on the gains and dont make the box overy huge.

Not to hold the dust cap down. To tape to your hand so you can hold on to it when you're applying the cap to the cone. Sounds like a plan. ill give it a shot thanks. at least you didnt say its to tie me down, because that will sound funny coming from a guy

Ill try and find a dustcap in the local market if not Ill have to ship it. Not sure about the Mc Gyver Duct-tape thingy, im sure it will work but it will look just wrong. You guys have a certain brand of epoxy glue that you preffer? Thanks for all the reply;s makes me feel better already. You might just see an OPTI FI or an OPTI Nightshade or whatever cheap dustcap I can find..

ya its the top of the coil but its above the cone so i hope it will be ok. any idea how much for a new dustcap?

yeah pain in the ass it is, That and I had to ship mine half way around the world.

Mother-Father that is crazy. Mind sharing what your box tuning is?

..clicking email notification sorry.