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Punkeyboozter

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Posts posted by Punkeyboozter


  1. Keep in mind when you are looking for low frequency extension you can't just look at Fs. You have to consider Fs in relation to Q as well as the enclosure among other things such as power and displacement capabilities. Even if the Fs is reasonably low in frequency but the Q is also very low, you are running them pseudo-IB in your door and their displacement is fairly limited.....low frequency extension is still going to be limited. It's a simple fact of physics. Another thing to keep in mind that is B&C's rated Xmax is 2-way not 1-way because it's total coil overhang.

    The moral of the story is that you will have a difficult time finding a pro audio style driver with decent low frequency extension in the type of installations we typically perform in car audio. It's a basic compromise of their design, there is no way around it.

    Thx, that being said 80% of the car speakers out there dont impress me either including some of the mega buck units


  2. Any updates on this OP?

    Yeah bro, i was begging jacob to bring them neo's out and nothing. Then suck my dick asked for them and his bandwagon chimed in so now looks like they may just actually bring them out soon. Not sure if i should try them emineces out any way. Its not like im a money tree and i do have the worry that they may not work for me. I could post my build log link if u want to follow but chances are it will go down in jan.

    Who the F gave you a negative??? lol....

    Anyway, the B&C are too expensive I assume???

    Lol i have a mystery hater. To be honest i looked at them but the sixes were rated to only 120hz have you seen them any lower?

    yes, this here... :

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-647

    Dang they do look good. Have you tried them? A bit over my budget for now but let see what jan brings.

    Thx


  3. Any updates on this OP?

    Yeah bro, i was begging jacob to bring them neo's out and nothing. Then suck my dick asked for them and his bandwagon chimed in so now looks like they may just actually bring them out soon. Not sure if i should try them emineces out any way. Its not like im a money tree and i do have the worry that they may not work for me. I could post my build log link if u want to follow but chances are it will go down in jan.

    Who the F gave you a negative??? lol....

    Anyway, the B&C are too expensive I assume???

    Lol i have a mystery hater. To be honest i looked at them but the sixes were rated to only 120hz have you seen them any lower?


  4. Any updates on this OP?

    Yeah bro, i was begging jacob to bring them neo's out and nothing. Then suck my dick asked for them and his bandwagon chimed in so now looks like they may just actually bring them out soon. Not sure if i should try them emineces out any way. Its not like im a money tree and i do have the worry that they may not work for me. I could post my build log link if u want to follow but chances are it will go down in jan.


  5. You mean your subs will be wired to two ohms? From what i know about the subs are that they are rated at 1k rms each. Not sure about that amp and if it will do 2k rms at 2ohms as most ps are rated at 1ohm. If that is the case they will be getting half their rated power. It also depends on what coil options you have on your subs. Have you purchased the drivers yet?


  6. Cant remember to be honest. I could pull up someting over the wknd if you want but you will have to let me know your max dimentions and how much power ur running to those subs. I used .75" mdf but 1" is better. Do good bracing and you should be fine. Double baffle highly recommended.


  7. Thanks for the answers so far guys. One more question though he mentioned that having a sealed box with nothing inside it was a bad idea. something about sound waves echoing or something to that effect.

    should be fine some people use poly fill or pillow stuffing to make a small box act bigger then what it actually is.


  8. Would i notice a difference if the box was 2.0cuft vs 2.5cuft?

    you might but it also depends on other things such as your port in relation to box size and the amount of power you are planning to use.

    if you use more power u can use a smaller box within reason


  9. Well first of Kenwood isn't a bad product but its essentially a mass market product and far from the best out there. They do other things like radio communication much better then car radio.

    Running a amp at 1 ohm does affect the SQ somewhat but you will be hard pressed to tell the difference its not like its like with headphones where you can tell the difference between 8ohm and 150 ohms. Chances are the amp he wants to sell to you aint 1 ohm stable and will likely do 2 or 4 ohms at best.

    Install is very important and how the sub box is designed will largely determine how well it plays. Chances are he would have sold you a basic sealed box any way so as long as its the right size and has a good seal it wont matter...why not stay here on the forum a while learn a few things and build your own box for 50-100 buck + you would have learned something and have the pride and satisfaction that comes with it.

    Id buy fi or sundown over kenwood any day...in fact I have done so and will continue to support companies that care about their clients...having a far superior product does help this fact.

    That's interesting you say that. His recommendation was a ported box from kenwood's Freak series. I don't care how cool the box was they wanted $550 for it.

    screw them unless its some glassed box with leather or carbon it still too much. Use that money and buy some tools as this is an addictive hobby and even if you build the perfect box the first time chances are you you will get the itch again to build more and more and more.

    Here are some estimates and quality and region might change some of the prices.

    MDF 40-50bucks (wood shop can make most of the cuts for you)

    router 100 bucks

    router bits 30 bucks

    jigsaw 150 bucks

    sander 50bucks

    clamps 20bucks

    tape measure 10 bucks

    tube glue gun 10 bucks

    tube of glue 10 bucks enough for at least two boxes

    screws 10 bucks

    Drill 100 bucks

    screwdriver 5 bucks

    sanding paper 1 buck

    If you dont have money get highlighted items first

    People in these parts say now you have been poisoned.


  10. Looks good,

    One thing though the way you did it places the baffle in the box which will make the box bigger if you mount it on the outside and its already bordering on the large side.

    apart from that it looks good and Id add some bracing as well as make the port slightly smaller as smaller ports tend to be a bit more musical unless your chasing numbers, but then again if you were chasing numbers often a smaller box with a big port gives you more of a peak that those guys are after.

    As the box is now it should work for most.

    didn't check the box dimensions just make sure there is some space for the rear of the sub to clear the port


  11. Hey guys I stopped by a local car audio shop today and talked with a salesmen for almost an hour. 90% of their products are Kenwood and he swears by them. He had a lot to say and I was just wondering if it was true because there were some things I have never heard.

    He said that running an amp at 1 ohm is a bad idea because the sound quality drops significantly.

    He also said that you should spend more on your box than on your subs because the box is responsible for 75% of your bass.

    He also had very little good to say about Fi or sundown but that scosche is a very well respected for their sub woofers and amps

    I don't know if any of it is true or not but if you guys have any insight on this that would be sweet.

    Thanks,

    Matt

    Well first of Kenwood isn't a bad product but its essentially a mass market product and far from the best out there. They do other things like radio communication much better then car radio.

    Running a amp at 1 ohm does affect the SQ somewhat but you will be hard pressed to tell the difference its not like its like with headphones where you can tell the difference between 8ohm and 150 ohms. Chances are the amp he wants to sell to you aint 1 ohm stable and will likely do 2 or 4 ohms at best.

    Install is very important and how the sub box is designed will largely determine how well it plays. Chances are he would have sold you a basic sealed box any way so as long as its the right size and has a good seal it wont matter...why not stay here on the forum a while learn a few things and build your own box for 50-100 buck + you would have learned something and have the pride and satisfaction that comes with it.

    Id buy fi or sundown over kenwood any day...in fact I have done so and will continue to support companies that care about their clients...having a far superior product does help this fact.


  12. I am running B&C mids and I have mine crossed at 63hz.

    People hate because they have no personal experience and just talk out their ass while others have listened to some shit Selenium set up and say all PA sucks.

    Specs on my 10's

    Frequency response: 50-2,500 Hz • Fs: 50 Hz • SPL: 96 dB 1W/1m • Vas: 0.95 cu. ft. • Qms: 4.5 • Qes: 0.27 • Qts: 0.26 • Xmax: 8 mm

    Plenty of car mids around that don't have specs that nice. :drink40:

    yeah true but which unit are u using, also its a 10" you dont see many car specific mids in that size either. Just checked Their site and the 6" drivers I saw were all well over a 100 +hz

    I would love me some sub 80Hz drivers that can take 100RMS all day


  13. I was not aware that the equations "are out of date". How would you recommend going about getting the specs for my box then. I will try to play around with Bass Box Pro 6 to see if that will have any reasonable results.

    Thanks for the input.

    If you stick to the recommendations such as the vent size required for port for example.

    In the old days you can use a 18" driver with a 4" port no problem with a few mm xmax you wont have a problem chances are now a days your 12 with 18mm will over power a 4" aero under full load.

    I was actually thinking of making some 5" ports which should be good for a single 12 bl.

    Slot ports are a little less efficient and need a wee bit more area.

    Long story short follow the guidelines and you should be good to go.

    WinISD is also a good free tool. The re tool is also not too bad if you really dont have a clue and will get you 90% where you want to be; else I find the torres box tool to be nice for some tweeking and its better then the re tool


  14. Yes Seleniums will be louder than your average components but your still gonna wanna run some tweeters with them regardless, just cause PA speakers are loud does not mean you should ignore the upper frequencies.

    To the OP the Eminators is just a marketing ploy from Eminence, looks likes the Seleniums but still has specs like the Alphas but not as good. If you dont like the Seleniums then you wont like the Eminence, they will be louder with less midbass. I think you should look at companies such as: B&C speakers, 18 Sound, Beyma, Faital Pro among others. They are more expensive but not geared just to get loud, sound way better than Eminence and Selenium by far.

    sweet will check them out.


  15. I've been thinking about trying some B&C myself.

    I did too but just didnt have the motivation to try and make some odd-shapped grills to fit their 8" drivers. Im quite happy with my Neo-pro's, glad I got thrm but if I were to switch out in the future it would be a pair of B&C 10's.

    Them 8's any good on the lows? I think that is one concern many have...no doubt they hammer in the higher freq. Actually I was waiting for the neo 6.5s but they are taking too long and Mr sundown dont want to send me the proto;s.

    that being said I can get a pair of the eninense drivers for less then a single neo

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