jalat

those subs will take easy 2k daily

Plan on running a pair of M1a's strapped @ 2 ohms for daily/bassrace, and @ 0.5 ohm for burps. Just under 3 cubic feet tuned @ 38hz 72.5 sq in. of port Does it look adequate?

Wont be until spring that I start anything.

I also want something that will do well for bassrace, hense the higher tuning. Car also peaks around 47hz

Sub up, Port up 3.5 cubic feet @ 34hz And its also possible that your not getting the most out of your amp due to some voltage issues. Look into doing the BIG 3

Just finished an install today on a friends car (1994 Toyota Corolla) It consists of the following: Alpine CDA 9884 2 10" Fi SSD (brand new, no options) in a 1.35 cubic foot sealed enclosure BIG 3 (4 AWG) Stock batt up front, Motomaster Elimintaor in the rear 4 AWG wiring throughout Memphis 16-MC1500D @ 2 ohms For some reason, after no more than 10 minutes of test tones (from 25hz to 40hz) at around 75% volume the amp goes in and out of protect mode. All we were trying to do was loosen the woofers up a bit. Car was started, and gains weren't even at full potential. Fuse holder w/ voltage display states that the voltage was around the 11.8V range before it went into protect (cars heater was on, voltage taken at rear batt) We then went out fro a drive, and was listening to a variety of music. To my ears, this system doesnt sound anywhere near what it should sound like. For a 1500rms amp, it seems as though its no more than 600rms to the ear. Now I do realize that the woofers are brand new and aren't fully broken in, as well as the enclosure being a prefab sealed one (for the time being) Can anyone point me in the right direction as to why the amp is going in and outta protect mode? Also, why is it not sounding near its full potential?

In the new year, I plan on picking up 12" IXL's and powering them off an Earthquake PHD3 (3000rms @ 1 ohm). This will all be going into a trunk setup, which will be my 139.9 bassrace machine for next season. My question is, will the IXL's be able to take the power daily?

Thanks alot bro. BTW Love the setup. May I ask how you sealed it off from the trunk? Do you basically 'wall it' for lack of a better word?

Where can I get that song from you used in the video

UPDATE: It seems as though these are getting better. The woofers seem to need a good amount of breakin period for them to sound good, which is happening. As for the amp going into protect, it hasnt done it for awhile. Seems as though the voltage has somehow INCREASED a bit as the days went on. Next season, a ported enclosure will be made and possibly a HO alt. Thanks for the help thus far.

I dont think there is. In order to get a coil similar to the SPL series in there would be a very hard thing to do. Theres just not as much gap space in there. ohh alright.

0.9 cubic feet tuned @ 36hz worked really well, and we were feeding it 500rms

This might sound silly, but is there any way to maybe get the IXL's custom made with SPL coils, something like how you can get DC Level 4 xl woofers?

Well, I want something i can beat on. At the same time i'm not dumb, and wont be clipping the woofers and such. I'll have an extra batt for electrical and 2 runs of 1/0 wiring. On a single 12" and 1500rms I was able to burp a 140 @ 38hz and 139.2 on music. I wanna be able to burp around a 145 and music around 142ish Have you heard of the BTL? LOL yes as a matter of fact I have installed a 15" BTL loaded in my friends truck off an AQ 2200d @ 0.5 ohm and its retared loud. Gotta get it metered. But as for the IXL's, They are within my price range, and I wanna support the Canadian Economy...

Well, I want something i can beat on. At the same time i'm not dumb, and wont be clipping the woofers and such. I'll have an extra batt for electrical and 2 runs of 1/0 wiring. On a single 12" and 1500rms I was able to burp a 140 @ 38hz and 139.2 on music. I wanna be able to burp around a 145 and music around 142ish

The IXL's will take 1000rms. How many will you have? Do you really think that amp will do 3000rms? I wanna purchase two woofers. The amp does rated power, but after volt drop, imp rise and all that, i would expect 2500rms

I wish I was paying $5 a pack... In Canada, the average price for a pack of cigrettes is around $10 Holy Canuck! Id quit so fast its not even funny. HAHA I know its crazy. I used to smoke, but just recently stopped. It all depends on the brand of cigrette, size, and amount. For example, Large King Du Maurier's Large = 25 cigs per pack King= legnth of cig (regulars are stubby, not as long)

I wish I was paying $5 a pack... In Canada, the average price for a pack of cigrettes is around $10

One subwoofer is reading 1.9 ohms and the other is reading 2 ohms.

The amp is mounted on the back of the enclosure with small rubber spacers between the amp and enclosure for vibration protection

SO... My friend came by and we opened up the amp. Only thing i noticed is that alot of the internals have a white paste on them (i'm guessing some sort of thermal paste). After a good 10 minute look, we found nothing that looked burnt, fried, or anything abnormally loose. So far it has only gone into protect once today after a good 15 minute drive with music. We are considering creating a plexiglass cover plate, with a small computer fan on it, either blow air out or sucking air in, and then reverse mounting the amp.

What I dont understand is that the woofers arent even moving, nor am I even close to what the gain should be set at, yet the amp is heating up so fast and going into protect If we do managed to take a look at the inside of the amp, what should we look for? Things such as burned areas? Loose parts?

What do you mean not at full potential? How did you set the gains? Maybe the amp doesn't likes 11.8V or lower, and draws more current that's (probably) why it heats up and maybe clips and shuts itself off. Gains were set with a multimeter, and so once we saw what full potential was (around the 3/4 gain area) we back it down to around 1/2 gain (because we want to break in the woofers slowly in these cold months) That 11.8V was the lowest it dropped at a 45hz test tone, which jumped right back up to 12V and up to 12.2V with the car's heater off Setting gains with a multimeter is a bad idea... You are probably over driving the amp with the headunit, a combination of the low voltage issues... If it is getting hot you may very well have it wired wrong.. So please explain that when this amp was also used in my friends truck, who has a 4 batt system, where the voltage never dips below 13V, did the amp go into protect after 10 minutes, and still start heating up after 5 minutes. Subwoofer used was a BTL dual 1 ohm

What do you mean not at full potential? How did you set the gains? Maybe the amp doesn't likes 11.8V or lower, and draws more current that's (probably) why it heats up and maybe clips and shuts itself off. Gains were set with a multimeter, and so once we saw what full potential was (around the 3/4 gain area) we back it down to around 1/2 gain (because we want to break in the woofers slowly in these cold months) That 11.8V was the lowest it dropped at a 45hz test tone, which jumped right back up to 12V and up to 12.2V with the car's heater off

Both woofers are dual 2 ohm. One is a recone, and one is brand new from Fi. When wired for a 2 ohm load, each woofer is @ 4 ohms