Jump to content

jalat

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    62

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by jalat

  8. Posted

    UPDATE:

    It seems as though these are getting better. The woofers seem to need a good amount of breakin period for them to sound good, which is happening. As for the amp going into protect, it hasnt done it for awhile. Seems as though the voltage has somehow INCREASED a bit as the days went on. Next season, a ported enclosure will be made and possibly a HO alt. Thanks for the help thus far.

    0

  9. Posted

    This might sound silly, but is there any way to maybe get the IXL's custom made with SPL coils, something like how you can get DC Level 4 xl woofers?

    I dont think there is. In order to get a coil similar to the SPL series in there would be a very hard thing to do. Theres just not as much gap space in there.

    ohh alright.

    0

  10. Posted

    My frnd recently accuired two RFP3SD subs but my knowledge on box design for these shallow subs are limited.

    Please help me with box capacity and tuning(ported). I know normal RF subs like a bitt of high tuning but for these ...i have no clue if they will like it to be different.

    His goal is to squeeze it in a GETZ so space is a problem, if one will fit better, we might just go that way but he refuses to change subs so ill try and get this working for him.

    He want it loud with a bit of oomf but IDK so would appreciate your imput.

    Thanks guys.

    0.9 cubic feet tuned @ 36hz worked really well, and we were feeding it 500rms

    0

  12. Posted

    They dont need that power and really dont need all 1000watts to shine, so as long as your safe with the gains and volume know you could do it (just make sure you look, smell and hear for signs of stress).

    Well, I want something i can beat on. At the same time i'm not dumb, and wont be clipping the woofers and such. I'll have an extra batt for electrical and 2 runs of 1/0 wiring. On a single 12" and 1500rms I was able to burp a 140 @ 38hz and 139.2 on music. I wanna be able to burp around a 145 and music around 142ish

    Have you heard of the BTL?

    LOL yes as a matter of fact I have installed a 15" BTL loaded in my friends truck off an AQ 2200d @ 0.5 ohm and its retared loud. Gotta get it metered.

    But as for the IXL's, They are within my price range, and I wanna support the Canadian Economy...

    0

  13. Posted

    They dont need that power and really dont need all 1000watts to shine, so as long as your safe with the gains and volume know you could do it (just make sure you look, smell and hear for signs of stress).

    Well, I want something i can beat on. At the same time i'm not dumb, and wont be clipping the woofers and such. I'll have an extra batt for electrical and 2 runs of 1/0 wiring. On a single 12" and 1500rms I was able to burp a 140 @ 38hz and 139.2 on music. I wanna be able to burp around a 145 and music around 142ish

    0

  14. Posted

    In the new year, I plan on picking up 12" IXL's and powering them off an Earthquake PHD3 (3000rms @ 1 ohm). This will all be going into a trunk setup, which will be my 139.9 bassrace machine for next season. My question is, will the IXL's be able to take the power daily?

    The IXL's will take 1000rms. How many will you have? Do you really think that amp will do 3000rms?

    I wanna purchase two woofers.

    The amp does rated power, but after volt drop, imp rise and all that, i would expect 2500rms

    0

  15. Posted

    Stuck on the cigs. Need to quit though. at over 5 bucks a pack, its way too expensive!

    I smoke because I wasn't thinking and started smoking like a jackass! Now I'm addicted.

    I wish I was paying $5 a pack...

    In Canada, the average price for a pack of cigrettes is around $10

    Holy Canuck! Id quit so fast its not even funny.

    HAHA I know its crazy. I used to smoke, but just recently stopped.

    It all depends on the brand of cigrette, size, and amount.

    For example, Large King Du Maurier's

    Large = 25 cigs per pack

    King= legnth of cig (regulars are stubby, not as long)

    0

  16. Posted

    In the new year, I plan on picking up 12" IXL's and powering them off an Earthquake PHD3 (3000rms @ 1 ohm). This will all be going into a trunk setup, which will be my 139.9 bassrace machine for next season. My question is, will the IXL's be able to take the power daily?

    0

  17. Posted

    Stuck on the cigs. Need to quit though. at over 5 bucks a pack, its way too expensive!

    I smoke because I wasn't thinking and started smoking like a jackass! Now I'm addicted.

    I wish I was paying $5 a pack...

    In Canada, the average price for a pack of cigrettes is around $10

    0

  19. Posted

    Do both when it comes to fans, one blowing on the amp and the other sucking the hot air away and that should work. Where is the amp mounted?

    The amp is mounted on the back of the enclosure with small rubber spacers between the amp and enclosure for vibration protection

    0

  20. Posted

    SO...

    My friend came by and we opened up the amp. Only thing i noticed is that alot of the internals have a white paste on them (i'm guessing some sort of thermal paste). After a good 10 minute look, we found nothing that looked burnt, fried, or anything abnormally loose.

    So far it has only gone into protect once today after a good 15 minute drive with music. We are considering creating a plexiglass cover plate, with a small computer fan on it, either blow air out or sucking air in, and then reverse mounting the amp.

    0

  21. Posted

    Clipping is the problem which everyone keeps trying to tell you, or the amp maybe damaged (only things that make amp hot are : clipping, low voltage, wrong ohm load, not a well vented environment or damaged amp).

    What I dont understand is that the woofers arent even moving, nor am I even close to what the gain should be set at, yet the amp is heating up so fast and going into protect

    If we do managed to take a look at the inside of the amp, what should we look for? Things such as burned areas? Loose parts?

    0

  22. Posted

    For some reason, after no more than 10 minutes of test tones (from 25hz to 40hz) at around 75% volume the amp goes in and out of protect mode. All we were trying to do was loosen the woofers up a bit. Car was started, and gains weren't even at full potential.

    Fuse holder w/ voltage display states that the voltage was around the 11.8V range before it went into protect (cars heater was on, voltage taken at rear batt)

    What do you mean not at full potential? How did you set the gains?

    Maybe the amp doesn't likes 11.8V or lower, and draws more current that's (probably) why it heats up and maybe clips and shuts itself off.

    Gains were set with a multimeter, and so once we saw what full potential was (around the 3/4 gain area) we back it down to around 1/2 gain (because we want to break in the woofers slowly in these cold months) That 11.8V was the lowest it dropped at a 45hz test tone, which jumped right back up to 12V and up to 12.2V with the car's heater off

    Setting gains with a multimeter is a bad idea...

    You are probably over driving the amp with the headunit, a combination of the low voltage issues...

    If it is getting hot you may very well have it wired wrong..

    So please explain that when this amp was also used in my friends truck, who has a 4 batt system, where the voltage never dips below 13V, did the amp go into protect after 10 minutes, and still start heating up after 5 minutes. Subwoofer used was a BTL dual 1 ohm

    0

  23. Posted

    For some reason, after no more than 10 minutes of test tones (from 25hz to 40hz) at around 75% volume the amp goes in and out of protect mode. All we were trying to do was loosen the woofers up a bit. Car was started, and gains weren't even at full potential.

    Fuse holder w/ voltage display states that the voltage was around the 11.8V range before it went into protect (cars heater was on, voltage taken at rear batt)

    What do you mean not at full potential? How did you set the gains?

    Maybe the amp doesn't likes 11.8V or lower, and draws more current that's (probably) why it heats up and maybe clips and shuts itself off.

    Gains were set with a multimeter, and so once we saw what full potential was (around the 3/4 gain area) we back it down to around 1/2 gain (because we want to break in the woofers slowly in these cold months) That 11.8V was the lowest it dropped at a 45hz test tone, which jumped right back up to 12V and up to 12.2V with the car's heater off

    0

  24. Posted

    So they have dual 2 ohm coils and are wired in series/parallel? Check each coil with a DMM, just to make sure that maybe one coil isn't defected or something and reading too low.

    Both woofers are dual 2 ohm. One is a recone, and one is brand new from Fi. When wired for a 2 ohm load, each woofer is @ 4 ohms

    0

  25. Posted

    have you opened the amp up yet? And are the air holes on the amp free of any covered obstructions?

    Have not checked out the amp guts as of yet. There are no air holes on the amp, other than where the fuses are located which is on the bottom of the amp, recessed behind the cover plate

    0
×