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RobClay

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Posts posted by RobClay

  5. Posted

    what up every1. im new to the forums and dont really know much about car audio so i need some help. i have a 2004 ford explorer and it has the folding 3rd row and saw a video on youtube and this guy had 2 Fi BTL 18s and hifonics XX-Goliath in the same vehicle so i know 18s will fit but im not sure if thats what i want. i want something that hits VERY hard and CLEAR its nothing i hate more than people with systems that just sound like horrible loud noise. i want to be able to hear the lyrics and the highs and still have hard clear bass. so i need a lot of suggestions cause im itching to buy a system but dont know where to start. (please include what watt amp, wiring, whole 9 yrds) thanks

    if your not trying to go REAL big then go with either 2 18" Fi Q's or 2 15" fi bl's. regardless fi's are real good subs and have great sound quality and can get really loud in tha right box

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  8. Posted

    Lol it's all good.

    And I check this topic everyday, so if you got any questions, just ask me.

    You should have minimal flex w/ two baffles. If you have extra room, you can double up on any side. You cannot do internal braces, because that would throw the airspace and tuning off. If you decide to double up a side, just add the sheet on the outside of the box. Like put it together w/ the pieces I listed, then take the measurements of the outside and make the extra pieces. These subs are only 600 RMS a piece, and I think single .75 will work great, but doubling always helps if you can!

    Pics are always great!

    sounds like a plan. i might just double the top part. im using 3/4 mdf i hopin thatl be good enough

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  9. Posted

    yupp.

    but that one 17.3 is a 17.5

    I'll draw you up a cut sheet when i get time...

    classes are kickin my butt.

    i'll try to get them done by late tomoro night

    aight here we go

    put it together like i showed w/ the joints.

    DSC00190-1.jpg

    DSC00194.jpg

    DSC00192-1.jpg

    DSC00193.jpg

    DSC00195.jpg

    tips:

    put together the two sets of two port pieces together w/ screws and glue b4 you screw them onto the box. It makes a funky angle that is hard to get to w/ your drill.

    put together the box in the order i did w/ my box... i find that to be the easiest: put it all together on the 'bottom' of the box, then put the top on.

    i'd recommend taking another 'top' piece and put it on top of the top to make a double baffle.

    any questions, just ask me.

    Gross-11.08

    Gross per chamber-4.16

    Tuning-29.79

    Net per chamber-3.75

    Port area-104 in^2

    wow man. thanx for all the help and all that this is gonna help me alot. and all the tips. ill probably start tomorow. or sometime soon. ill keep you updated on tha pics and progress:)

    but i really do appreciate your help, (sorry if i keep sayin it over and over again haha)

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  12. Posted

    Here. My specs are flawless... trust me.

    I did all the math 3 times. By hand, no online calculators...

    I took my time to do this for you, so trust me, it's right.

    I can also draw up cuts for ya if you want.

    DSC00188.jpg

    DSC00189.jpg

    I did a 3 inch port, then 6 inch combined in order to keep the math the same... otherwise it would get too complicated.

    I couldn't get exactly 30 htz for tuning, but I got right under it.

    Does this look good for you?

    3.7515 ft^3 net per chamber

    29.79 htz tuning freq

    thanx man:D not many people would do that.. one question and ye it looks good ill go with this design. what is that number by the 19 on the left side of the drawing?

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  15. Posted · Edited by RobClay

    i got the front peice drawn. both side peices. top and bottom peices too gotta get a half a sheet of mdf to finish. i dont like using a hand skillsaw cuz it can messup easier and make it even a little off.. any tips to help keep it straight? if not im going to try to use one of my friends dad's table saw

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  16. Posted

    The port caculator

    http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

    and other online calculators use the xmax in the calculations PURELY for the purpose of determining how much port area there should be.

    Tuning freq is dependent on box ONLY, not the driver.

    Port area for this box should be about 120+ in^2...

    If you want me to, I will draw up plans for you. Free of course.

    Just to back up your work or to work off of.

    You will love these subs if you get them in the right box...

    And I would recommend 30 htz for tuning.

    My draw ups look like this (i like doing it all by hand)

    DSC00093.jpg

    And just for fun here is my box build log if you wanna look at it (took only two days to build this box: one day cuts and one day assemble and paint):

    http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=20625

    ..

    ye if u could:) but i still need the subs facing up and the port facing back in the middle and keep the measurements. 19" deep and tall 44" wide 25" long from back seat. heres tha new plan

    DSC04137.jpg

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  17. Posted · Edited by RobClay

    thanx man:D i needed to know that so i could see howthe measures of the port will make the box tune to around 32 or lower. i appreciate it

    the x-max doesn't determine tuning tuning frequency..........

    by your sketch looks like your tuned at about 28hz....

    well i know, but there was this website that had a port tuning calculator and it asks for the number of subs, size, xmax. etc.. do you think 28hz would sound good? he wants it to be loooww

    as yall prolly know im still a lil new to box building and all.. ive learned alot tho. fast learner.. its tha only thing that really interests me lol

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  18. Posted

    14 mm one way xmax

    http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rig...ated=1084310906

    I never once bottomed out my T1, got it smelly, or had probs w/ it at all.

    1006 RMS @ 2 ohms off a T10001bd. Obviously I kept the gains down a lot, but I did give that sub hell and it's now chillin in my garage. I really liked that thing.

    thanx man:D i needed to know that so i could see howthe measures of the port will make the box tune to around 32 or lower. i appreciate it

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  21. Posted

    do an audible test, that'll let you find the xmax for sure.

    Pick a test tone that is definitely lower than tuning, something that'll unload the subs for sure.

    Start it with the subsonic filter turned all the way down and the volume on the stereo all the way down too.

    Have yourself next to the subs and have someone else start slowly turning up the headunit.

    You will eventually hear the subs surpass the xmax range when the sound of the subs sound like they went clipped or they all of a sudden start to emit a odd loud mechanical noise.

    Once you hear that, turn it back down til it stops, that should be their xmax.

    If this is purely an all out quality install, make sure your excursion doesn't surpass xmax and that you do not clip your signal either and you will be in good shape.

    thanx for response man, my friend will be getting tha t1's soon maybe less than a week so we'll try then.

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  22. Posted

    so your saying net per driver is 4.37 so 123 sq inches of port will set you right at about 14sq inches per cube which should be ideal for the t1. i know your drawing is off for sure, the second port walls look like 1 inch when they should look like half of the port entrance 3inches on each side.

    ye i know. im not gonna make a ratio for this build.

    what do you mean? on paper or in the final product... I assume you're refering to the ports???

    (not being an a$$ just curious what you meant)

    lol nah i was talking about for this box i wasnt gonna make a ratio for it like.. 1 cube on the paper = 3" on the actual box

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