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Impious

SSA Tech Team
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Posts posted by Impious


  1. For example, usually the smaller the speaker, the more on axis it has to be.

    Not really true.

    As to the original question...No, running active really has nothing to do with whether the car is tuned for one seat or two. It's possible to tune the system in either manor (one front seat or both) with either an active or passive setup.


  2. That's ridiculous. Why would you not get new soft parts from the company who actually made the woofer?

    I agree, but in the same sense, it takes a long time to get recones from Fi/SSA.

    Except in this case the driver was an IA


  3. I don't know about their speakers but their UL12 subwoofer was reviewed by CA&E magazine as the best sub ever (not the exact words). Of course that's a HUGE statement but I do remember the Klippel curves sure were sexy. Very linear on all fronts if I'm remembering correctly. I probably have the issue with the test and results in the closet, but I digress. Even if they produce some of the "best" equipment I can't see how it could even begin to carry those prices, they're as bad as Rolls Royce. Then again I don't get the price tag on those Morels either and I'll readily admit I'm no authority on any of it so take my opinions for what they're worth.

    The UL12 used an MMAG motor, same tech Quentin is using in some of his DSS drivers. It was indeed a well measuring driver, never had the pleasure of playing with one.

    That said the actual street price for a lot of the CM gear is far less than the ebay ads, although IMO still way more than they were worth. Someone posted gut shots of one of their amps on DIYMA a couple years ago....looked like any other Asia buildhouse mass produced OEM product. IIRC they might have even identified what other amps used that same board, and they were not high dollar brands.

    I'll take an Ethos over the UL any day.

    Ethos isn't MMAG. Not saying you shouldn't be happy with it, though.

    There used to be some used UL's floating around on DIYMA, if I recall correctly there was a time you could grab one used for around $400 over there.


  4. I don't know about their speakers but their UL12 subwoofer was reviewed by CA&E magazine as the best sub ever (not the exact words). Of course that's a HUGE statement but I do remember the Klippel curves sure were sexy. Very linear on all fronts if I'm remembering correctly. I probably have the issue with the test and results in the closet, but I digress. Even if they produce some of the "best" equipment I can't see how it could even begin to carry those prices, they're as bad as Rolls Royce. Then again I don't get the price tag on those Morels either and I'll readily admit I'm no authority on any of it so take my opinions for what they're worth.

    The UL12 used an MMAG motor, same tech Quentin is using in some of his DSS drivers. It was indeed a well measuring driver, never had the pleasure of playing with one.

    That said the actual street price for a lot of the CM gear is far less than the ebay ads, although IMO still way more than they were worth. Someone posted gut shots of one of their amps on DIYMA a couple years ago....looked like any other Asia buildhouse mass produced OEM product. IIRC they might have even identified what other amps used that same board, and they were not high dollar brands.


  5. I live within 30 minutes of Fort Wayne.....I'm guessing that was on D&B's website? Not sure any other shop is still around that city and doing installs....and it looks like something D&B would do.


  6. I wouldn't worry about it, honestly. I don't see the need, the sub has a high enough rated power handling that being able to squeeze a few hundred extra watts out of it isn't going to make an audible difference anyways.

    Side note there was an XXX for sale locally but can't get the bastard to email me back :(


  7. one of hte things i wanted to do was test these 7.00 speakers off amazon against the 1300.00 focals and see if i can hear any real difference to them. ive always understood that to get great sound you need to spend thousands on sets of speakers made with neo magnets, polyglass cones, and what ever else they design them with. i want to see just how noticeable the difference is

    Sweet Baby Lord Jesus. First, they are wrong. But second, you are no where close to being able to analyze speakers at that level. Especially on your own.


  8. i just took out the plastic dome 2" tweeter from one of my floor standing sony speakers and replaced it with a boss bullet tweeter. the sound is so much BRIGHTER and more vibrant. i really love the sound of this bullet.

    Oh dear god.

    First, you can't do that. Passive crossovers are designed to work with a specific impedance, and many times they are designed to work with a specific driver. If you change the impedance of the load you change the crossover frequency of the passive crossover, and if it was designed to work with a specific driver then by changing the driver nothing in the crossover or overall design is going to "work" the way it was intended to function. The frequency response will be fucked up, baffle step compensation could be fucked up, zobel network won't function properly, trap filters and other things won't serve the proper function, etc. You can't just start mixing and matching drivers on a passive crossover. It doesn't work like that. STOP DOING IT IMMEDIATELY.

    Second I have a very strong suspicion based on this statement you are simply confusing louder with sounds better. In which case everything you are doing is even more pointless.

    Sean is more right than you can imagine. Start with a decent passive component set and focus on improving your installation before you do anything else. You aren't going to learn anything doing what you are doing. It's not going to happen. Anything you think you've learned will be wrong, flat wrong. You are going to take this bad advice you get from work, combine it with this poorly executed experience you think you are gaining and come away completely confused and misinformed but THINK you know something.


  9. yea, audio-control is what we sell at work. we are a dealer for them and it was said that they make some of the best processors out there. now having said this the source of said information has been doing car audio longer than i have been alive (nearly double actually) so i suppose its not surprising that information may be a bit dated.

    A little dated? He recommended you the equivalent of this...

    Brick-Cell-Phone4.jpg

    even with that however i am finding it EXTREMELY difficult to find true digital processors that do not use POT dials on them

    I'm surprised you can find many processors that use a pot, much less that are also digital.

    why is it that so many of the "recommended" products are all out of production? was car audio just a lot higher quality years ago and now its all watered down or did something else change?

    We are the minority. 95% of the market are the people who want the deck & 4's installed for the lowest price possible, or want to add a sub and leave everything else basically stock.

  10. well i spent $799 for 2 ts1300x2. really hoping they are worth the money, just noticed they dont have anything EQ wise, so looks like ill also pick up a taramps CRX 4 crossover when they are avaiible.

     

    however i just recieved all the prv audio mids and am dissapointed. 3 out of 8 6.5's are making a rattling noise. and all 6 neodymium 8's are rattling  at a decent volume. good thing partsexpress is good with retunes cause all those are getting returned monday.

     

    have any of you tried rockford fosgate punch pro speakers? they were my next choice,  speaker depth on front doors. can have max of 3" mounting depth for the 8's. wish sundown mids werent so much damn money. crescendo needs to come out with neodymium mids.

    I don't know what your goal is, but regardless of what it is you are not going to achieve it with that system layout.


  11. Go measure air with your voltmeter. There is no such thing as "no voltage".On top of that, if you have an 8chn and need 6chn bridge two. ;)

    Ok ...If you take a 4 channel amplifer and set it on a test bench, and ONLY connect the ground, positive, and remote wires up and fire up a solid 12.6 volts ... the amplifier should set there at idle ??? or is it common practice to ALWAYS connect RCAs up to an amplifier before startup ???What would happen if you turn the gain up in this application ???

    No matter how you phrase the question, the answer is the same.

    No, it will not damage or hurt anything.


  12. i want to have certain driver types on hand to compare things with. i tried to get some drivers with as similar specs as possible then pick up various types of cone materials, neo vs ferreite, ect. i just cant follow all this with out the physical speakers here for me to play and listen to. the drivers i grabbed were cheap so im not worried about the cost. as for the DQDX that is the best processor that audio control has, from what i was told its one of the best on teh market so thats why i went with it.

    For reference, comparing things in the manor you are isn't going to allow you to compare specific variables. For example, you can't listen to two completely different drivers that also have different cone materials, hear a difference between them and attribute that difference specifically to the cone material. All you are going to really figure out from that is that two completely different drivers sound differently. No huge insight there.

    As for the DQDX...ROFLMFAO. Not sure who told you it was one of the best processors on the market, but they are living in the 90's. There are dozens of processors on the market both new and used that would stomp the shit out of the DQDX in every conceivable way. Audiocontrol hasn't made a relevant processor in 15 years. How they've even stayed in business is beyond me. Because they don't deserve to.

    Again this is part of he problem, you keep listening to people giving you the terrible advice. I swear to god if someone at the shop told you that the DQDX was one of the best on the market I'm going to have Sean drive over there and kick every single one of them in the nuts, and yours twice.


  13. Nice work, especially for having no real tools.

    Sort of kills me the amount of work you went to for what amounts to a temporary enclosure....way more elaborate than any "permanent" enclosure I've built for myself. Then again that's because deep down I know that anything that goes in my car ends up being temporal in nature.


  14. What about using sound deadning to make the pods more dense?

    As stated even if you were going to make them more rigid (I'd recommend fiberglassing them), then you are still left with them being secured to the flimsy door panel. By the time you put in the effort and cost to make these into a well executed installation, you would have been better off just staring from scratch as you would have to rework the whole damn thing.


  15. Looks cool from sen video. But no colors yet?

    Once these get rolling, we will stock more color options. I am considering a full set of blue for my own car.
    Meh, I'd save you money.

     

    Finding properly shielded interconnects in our price range isn't very easy. 

     

    With that said, our products are made with American labor while avoiding chinese parts as best we can and we offer a 5 year no questions asked warranty. SounDrive wasn't made to make money - it was made to offer a product that people can enjoy at a reasonable price while making just enough profit to justify our time.

    I've been in this hobby for a few years and never ran into a noise issue in one of my vehicles attributable to the RCA cables shielding. That includes the times I've wired my entire vehicle for less than the cost of one 17' SounDrive cable, which I've been doing for the past decade....and I use a few cables in my installs. Nor have I ever needed to warranty a cable. "Reasonable" price is rather subjective.....

    WestCo on DIYMA has some cockamamie ideas....

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