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Impious

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Posts posted by Impious

  4. Posted

    Ever tell you how much I hate lying and shady Indiana police.  I mean seriously, a rental car with a speed limiter at 115mph cannot do 142mph.  Trying to pull the "well thats what we had to do to catch up to you, so you must have been doing 142mph" is sickening.  

    Where at in Indiana?

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  10. Posted

    Now, I have xover settings, with f/r hpf, lpf, frequency and slope. Now I understand these all fairly well, but on this, where I have gotten confused is: does the front hpf control highs, and rear hpf control mids? Or is it as it sounds, front does front, rear does rears?

    From what I can gather from the manual; front is front, rear is rear.

    Next is, by setting frequency, slope and levels on xover, how much of an affect does it cause within bands of parametric eq? I know it sets frequency cuts hi and low, but how much do the settings affect eq? How much of an affect will each of these settings have on the amps ssf,lpf,hpf have in a whole.

    I don't understand your question. The EQ and crossover only affected each other if the frequencies you are adjusting overlap each other. In which case, they are affected by the amount of adjustment you select. If the EQ band falls outside of the bandwidth affected by the crossover, then the xover slope does not affect the EQ. If the EQ band does fall within the bandwidth affected by the slope of the xover, then the frequencies are affected by the slope of the xover by the amount indicated by the slope.

    Same goes for the settings on the amp. The frequencies are affected by the amount indicated by the settings you select on the headunit. So if you set the HU xover to 100hz with a 12db/oct slope and the amplifiers xover to 100hz with a 12db/oct slope, the you created a Linkwitz-Riley 4th order xover which would be a 100hz highpass filter with a 24db/oct slope that is down 6db at the crossover point.

    Next question is regarding the eq. What exactly does each band 1-9 affect? 1-2 is lows, 3-6 mids, 7-9 highs, or is there a more formulated process to this.

    You have a 9 band parametric EQ. Alpine has selected which frequency bandwidth each EQ band is capable of being adjusted to. So yes, with your EQ bands the higher the EQ band #, the higher the frequency bandwidth it can adjust.

    So say I have an amped 12", amped 6.5" comp set with 1" tweeters, and hu powered 5.25" coax in rear, what will each band do for the respective speakers via performance? Are there certain frequencies that should be chosen for specific speaker size? Maybe my understanding of the eq is incorrect...

    EQ frequency selection has nothing to do with speaker size. It has to do with the performance of your particular system and needs in terms of frequency response correction/adjustment. Obviously the frequency bands will only affect the speakers playing that bandwidth. So if you lowpass your sub at 50hz, adjusting 315hz on the EQ won't affect the sub, nor the tweeter....only the mid. Likewise adjusting 10khz will only affect the tweeter.

    Lastly, when adjusting each individual frequency, the next frequency is altered as to only allow a fixed variable of frequencies. Like if band 1 is set to 80, band 2 will only adjust to say, between 125 and 200 and so on. Is this just by design to keep within each bands frequency ranges so they dont separate, have gaps, and sound like shit?

    It's just Alpine's design to not allow EQ bands to be clumped too closely together to keep novices from screwing things up too badly.

    Word of warning...when you boost the EQ you are asking the amplifier to output more power at that particular frequency. A 3db increase asks the amplifier to produce twice as much power. A 6db boost asks the amplifier to output 4 times as much power. Boosting frequencies on an EQ isn't a free lunch to gain output...asking the amplifier to output that much extra power can easily smoke a speaker if used incorrectly.

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  11. Posted

     1) PEQ or graphic.  I'm 99.999999999 percent sure PEQ.  A mic will be needed  so it'll be a learning curve for most but I think it's worth it.

    Both. PEQ to target specific trouble areas, graphic for general FR shaping. Make sure you can EQ L/R independent and then shape overall system response.

    2)time alignment of course

    Of course.

    3)ability to auto eq with available third party software

    The only auto-EQ I've ever seen implemented in a car that is worth anything is Harmon's. All of the others have been trash inside of an auto. Were you looking at using Audyssey? The Alpine version of it was horrible. IMO unless this is some new proprietary design that hasn't been (unsuccessfully) used in the car before and can atleast compete with the MS8...skip it. It will increase product cost and no one will use it because it will sound terrible.

    4)unbalanced input / output (balanced would be cool but damn near nothing else would be and I'm told running non balanced on a balanced DSP can cause issues)

    To my understanding the design of differential balanced inputs still improve noise isolation with unbalanced signals which decreases the likelihood of users experiencing noise issues with the processor.

    6) calibrated mic to come with DSP

    See response to #3. Unless this is something much more fantastic than Audyssey and the other auto-EQ's for the car...skip it.

    7) 3 way with sub capable 

    Make the inputs/outputs assignable/routable and capable of signal summation. I.e. If you allowed for channels to be L-R then people could use the processor for proper rear fill if they weren't running 3-way + sub active. Make it easily controlled from the seat. Don't make the crossover point/slope/filter type too restrictive.

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  16. Posted

    Is it a thing where companies will send you your bill late to get you to pay late fees?

    Every other Bill I get is with a late fee, but I never get the invoice telling me when I have to pay.

    This even happened with my AmEx.

    One if the bills we get at work is like that. Can't remember but I think it's for the trash. It'll even show on the bill that the due date is like 6/15 and the date of the bill is 6/25 and we'll receive it on 7/3. Why in the hell are you sending a bill 10 days after it's due?

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  17. Posted

    Lady at work has plugged the toilet twice and left it so I've had to plunge it when I go in to urinate. Give me a damn break, you are a grown adult and you know what a flushing toilet sounds like. If you've clearly plugged it, plunge your own shit...literally

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  18. Posted

    Over a year since I got my black Allen Edmonds. My cordovan wingtips are just about a month younger. Maybe less.

    Then a third pair purchased in the fall/winter I think.

    3 pair on a consistent rotation for a year. Usually just for work, but they have some nights out and other events through the year.

    Pretty amazed they have made it this long without needing a resole, or needing a deep polish. The wingtips have some scuffs and wear that need to be looked at sooner or later, but in general this things are great.

    If I get another 6 months before they need a refurbishing, they will exceed the initial investment. If the refurbishing lasts 2 years, they will have paid for themselves.

    I pay $40 - $50 at Kohls or Penney's for my dress shoes and wear them for 5 years.
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  21. Posted

    Incline bench my tri's felt fine. Dips my tri's felt fine. Skullcrushers with the EZ bar....holy fucksticks. They've felt a little tight since Mon, nothing too serious. Today doing those Skullcrushers after about 4 reps, even on reduced weight, they felt like they were going to tear apart into a million pieces. So tight and tense I swear I could feel every fiber of the muscle.

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  22. Posted

    I get US Chemical resin from our local NAPA and don't have any complaints. But everyone has great things to say about the US Composite stuff, so maybe next time I'll look into them a little more closely.

    I'm surprised with as popular as US composite is that their website is still from 1995

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  24. Posted

    6-7" is what fits nicely in your truck. Any larger and you can't mate with a tweeter

    Exactly my reason for asking. In a 2-way the #1 thing to concern yourself with is selecting a driver that will properly mate with the tweeter while giving up the least amount of midbass potential. In most instances this is going to be a 6.5" or 7" driver.

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