TheGr33nNinja
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Posts posted by TheGr33nNinja
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Puscifer:"You're playing below tuning. If the port is only 32hz 23hz should be almost nonexistent. Ssf needs to be set a little higher."
Thanks! I looked up a video on how to set it using a DDM. If I can figure it out, I think that way should be pretty simple.
"most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. "
Thanks, man. You're a great help! I want to set that and my lpf using my new dmm. I'm also thinking of building my own box. If I look up what tools I'll need and materials, I'm sure I could dedicate a weekend to it. Give my girl and I a little project that we both can participate in. Gotta get this sub going in a worthy box!
Also...not to disappoint anyone, or you, THX, but I kind of already did damage the sub. It was a total accident.
EDIT:
The video is coming up as private on my phone. Thats weird. I can't change it to anything on my phone, but when I get home I'll change it for you guys. Unfortunate.
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"I have always tuned in the 30-34 hz range for my daily use enclosures. I personally found it to work well with my tastes. Generally with a larger lower tuned enclosure you get a flatter response over a larger range of frequencies, whereas a smaller but higher tune will give a much bigger spike or boost but to a very narrow range comparatively.
For example I am currently running a single 15 in 4 cubic feet net tuned to 33Hz. And I find it has great range for multiple genres of music."
So it would appear low 30's is a good tuning range. I'm thinking if I get a new box I'll bump it up in hz in a bigger enclosure. 32 or 33. Probably 33.
"32hz is always a good tuning for these heavy duty subs I believe, however, I don't know what the XCON wants in terms of space and tuning, or rather, what it desires for best performance. If 32hz fits right around the middle of reccomendation, I would surely choose 32hz and use the max internal volume INCLUDING SUBWOOFER AND PORT DISPLACEMENTS!!! listed under vented specs. To quote Alton...
" As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume of the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure. So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total."
Your number's may be different but the same practice still applys. Your subwoofer's website/manual will list it's volume, or someone on these forums will know specifically."
Thats cool, man. I think the shop I went to failed miserably. xD
I understand what you mean about net volume. I believe the xcon is recommended to be tuned at 26-33 hz. So 30 would be in the middle if thats what we're going by to tune it.
"nice. I too have a 2012 Ford Focus. Don't know what Im gonna be running yet tho. Had a DC Level 3 15" in a 3.25cf enclosure tuned to 30hz.
Boy oh boy did it have my poor car shakin."
Do you have any pictures, bro? My girl and I would like to see how you managed that!
Replying through my phone. No multi quote sucks.
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Either the sub or LOC is out of phase. You can tell by the way the sub is behaving. Although it would have been much easier to hear without music dubbed over the video.
1) turn radio up
2) turn bass knob up
3) unplug one side of the rca from the amp
4) look and listen to see if the sub moves more
if not the sub needs to be removed from the box (if you only have one wire coming out the box) and make sure the wires are not backwards on the sub.
DO NOT keep playing the sub before you check this out if it is out of phase you risk burning the coil up.
So I'd just like to post an update regarding this. I removed an input one by one and each time the sub got quieter and moved significantly less. I also played a song at 23hz and I could of sworn it's moving out of sync. It may be out of phaze, or maybe I'm just paranoid.
Not sure how to fix it if this is the case. It also sounds like a paper stuck in a bicycle wheel hitting the spokes as it hits bass. Pretty annoying. It also simulates a paper covering the port. But it's not the port. It's the sub. And I can hear it in the car when the bass is hitting. It's annoying. My girlfriend says it's not suppose to do that.
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And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol
Great point. I have a feeling the sub box is poor. xD
They carpeted it up real nice, but I think the sub needs a better home.
And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol
Also don't forget there is a break in period of nearly a month on those subs before they reach their full potential of excursion and loudness, just go easy on her for a while and she'll start to open up for ya, and if your going to stick with a that particular sub look into getting the max sized volume within spec tuned to the lowest hz within spec
Snaps! I took it easy for a week (even on 4ohms
) and thought that was good. 
Anyways, dope, we shall see how she opens up in a month or so.
As for spec tuning, you'd really recommend the lowest hz? That'd be 26hz, I believe! I was actually contemplating getting it tuned higher like at 33. Because from what I've read that should give more output, no? I just hope I wouldn't lose a ton of lows. x)
As for the max volume spec I have to look into that.
Thanks again, everyone. I'll post up my 10 for a final time soon.
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My apologies on the delay everyone!
Comparison video coming soon!
YES!! your problem IS SOLVED
Here is how it should be wired:ENJOY THE AWESOME DIFFERENCE!!
Yo, I was skeptical on the difference it'd make, but woah. Instant holy excursion all of a sudden. And stuff actually moves around in my car a little bit now. Pretty epic!
One little wire made all the difference.
That would be a D2 for sure.... Wire it up parallel and you'll be making waves...
I've been at the beach....
waves...
Why can't you use the piece of wire that you already have that was going from one side to the other? Should be plenty there to re-purpose it for connecting it in a parallel configuration.
It was too short to work with for me. BUT, no worries, I didn't even have to purchase any wire.
Use that short wire you have to go from the + on one side to the + on the other, and repeat for the -. Then hook the + on one to the + on the amp and likewise for -. That will do it. And since they left both strands there for the + to - that they did, just separate them and use them.
As shown in thx_elite's link above.I just got another wire and hooked it up like his diagram. x)
Chest is midbass not sub. Hard to breath isn't going to happen with a single driver in particular in that box.
And yes, great indeed. Being quiet outside while however you want on the inside is perfect. No wasted energy.Midbass, eh? Good thing i'm starting to look into components...hehe
As for the box, true.
...any reply on how you like your sub now? We all put alot of thought and suggestion in
Once again, my bad for the delay. Thanks everyone! It was a long journey, but we found the issue after all. Most of this thread was over my head honestly. xD
But I learned how to use a dmm now and how to wire a sub.
Parallel and in series. But I now know parallel is the way to go for a single d2. 
probably hard to understand pic 1.
perhaps slightly easier to understand pic
Basically what ended up happening was the next day I went to best buy. I went to service and told the guy how I took my sub in to get installed at a shop and they ended up wiring it to 4ohms and I want to wire it at 1ohm but I don't have any wire. He asked me how much I need and I gestured about a half a foot of wire. He's like "i'll go cut you off a piece" and he comes back with like a two foot piece of wire! He's just like "do you know what gauge it was?" i'm all "no" he's all "was it thick?" i'm like "i don't think so" then he goes " will this work?" and i'm all "that should do the trick!" and he's all "here you go, man. You can have it" and I was on my merry way! Went to home depot and bought some wire cutters along with a new dmm (the last one I believe was faulty).
In the home depot parking lot I ended up hooking up the sub with my girl. I took the old wire that was running negative to positive and ran it negative to negative. Then I took the new wire and joined it with the other positive and ran positive to positive. The pics are hard to see, but I had one loop running along the bottom of the sub, then the new wire I put above the sub because it was so long.
Now there's some songs that actually sound beast where as before I was trying to turn up the bass the whole time somehow. Wishing the bass control went up higher. xD
Anyways, that's about it, guys. It appears my sub has reached its full potential! Except, not as far as a "real" box goes.
Plus, I still owe you guys a comparison video. So, this weekend (hopefully tomorrow) i'ma try and get some footage. Then hopefully by Sunday night I can have it up for you guys to see the difference one little wire made with my sub.
Expect that soon. I am working (Friday is my monday) the next four days so I will have to squeeze it in somewhere.
I really appreciate everyone who took the time to post in the thread. You guys helped out a ton. I hope the video will be accepted as a form of gratitude. Seeing what you guys helped accomplish come to life.
EDIT:
And of course...I have to add in here. Yes, my girl is very satisfied with the sub now.
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YES!! your problem IS SOLVED
Here is how it should be wired:
ENJOY THE AWESOME DIFFERENCE!!
HECK YEAH!!!
Now I just have to actually wire it in that way. xD
I know the shop I went to last time closes in an hour!
So definitely tomorrow I will have this fixed!!
Thanks for the help, everyone. Lets see how this pans out!
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So I just went out and disconnected my sub and all the wires. I put the prongs inside the terminals.
1.6 ohms each side.
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Needs to be …- to -…… and………… + to + then to amp
Basically like the last diagram I posted, right? Little easier to understand.
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Removing the sub WAS the key, frog!Problem mite be solved! They have it ran at 4 ohm.
Thanks for cracking this case wide open!
Are you able to run it to 1 ohm your self?
No, I don't have wire laying around or anything.
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Problem mite be solved! They have it ran at 4 ohm.
Removing the sub WAS the key, frog!
Thanks for cracking this case wide open!
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Yes, connect the leads directly to the terminals of the subwoofer itself with no wiring attached. The DMM measures whatever it's connected to so if the voice coils are wired together or it's wired to the amp, or both as in your case it's measuring everything.
Thank you. I will get on that. I have to disconnect it all again.
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The way that you match your H/U's voltage out put with the amp input is first, Know what voltage your pre-outs on your H/U are, mine for example are 4v. Then all you have to do is set the amp "level/gain" knob to your H/U's pre amp voltage(this can be found in your H/U booklet or google your model of H/U). NEVER set the "level/gain" above the H/U's pre amp voltage. Adding another sub should be the last thing on your mind right now my friend! Figure this stuff out first!
Okay, I will get on that after I take care of this other problem. After removing the sub, it appears it's wired at 4ohms. WHAT IS THIS!
If it truly is then obviously i'd wire to 1ohm and see how that goes.
Either the sub or LOC is out of phase. You can tell by the way the sub is behaving. Although it would have been much easier to hear without music dubbed over the video.
1) turn radio up
2) turn bass knob up
3) unplug one side of the rca from the amp
4) look and listen to see if the sub moves more
if not the sub needs to be removed from the box (if you only have one wire coming out the box) and make sure the wires are not backwards on the sub.
DO NOT keep playing the sub before you check this out if it is out of phase you risk burning the coil up.
I only overlayed music where the video cut audio. In my editing software when you slow down the video audio cuts. So rather than hear nothing, I put in some music both my girl and I like.
I will check out those steps as well. I just want to figure out what kind of sub I have first and if it's wired to the lowest ohm possible.
If its a 2ohm sub, then looks to be wired at 4ohm
http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_2_ohm_mono_variation1.jpg
I was thinking the same thing. When I saw a 1ohm diagram, it made me kind of flustered. Like, "WHAT IS THIS! I have to get this wired to 1ohm now!"
Whats up with the speaker wire?? Is it two strands connected as one?
Correct. I was looking at that too.
Was the wires from the box to the amp still connected to the amp? If so the resistance measurements don't do us much good.
It's wired in series, so it's either a D1 wired to 2 ohms or a D2 and they wired it to 4. Disconnect the wires from the sub, yes all of them, and connect the DMM to each set of terminals and see what it reads. Then we can tell you whether it's really D1 or D2 and if the wiring configuration needs changed how to rewire it.
So you're saying disconnect all wires and just test the two that lead to the amp? Why would I take off the random wire from the positive to negative in that case?
Or are you saying connect the dmm directly to the sub?
I just looked at the last pic. You PAID a shop for that enclosure???!! My sister did a better job cutting out the baffles for the door speakers for her Durango than they did the opening for that sub!!!!!
Just noticed the end of the port on the inside of the enclosure doesn't look like it's all the way against the bottom of the enclosure either. That's just sad.
So it's becoming apparent a new box is in order. A real box.
Question is...how.
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Alright. Did my best to get the readings.
On the left it read 1.8
On the right it read 1.7
I believe that was all I needed to do. But just because I also did one from each opposite side at the same time.
The top two gave me 3.1
And the bottom gave me .2.
I will post the pics up after. Time to screw my sub in
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Guys, I don't want to jump the gun or anything, but so you guys are in sync with what i'm doing. I got it removed now. Here are some pics.
I'm working on the dmm now.
Left:
http://oi61.tinypic.com/imqu8g.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/nd7yp4_th.jpg
Red to black
http://oi59.tinypic.com/5js03p.jpg
Enclosure/port
http://oi58.tinypic.com/eqctnl.jpg
Port:
http://oi61.tinypic.com/2v8pyy8.jpg
Box:
http://oi60.tinypic.com/2uz2bnd.jpg
Back to tinkering
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Next I would take the car into the shop with the install reciept and make sure they did not use the pre existing amp that is in your car but instead to run directly from your H/U to your new amp...I am positive these things will help you...
This can be a tricky situation, the signal from the stock head unit is NOT speaker level which is what you want to feed into the LOC. It can sometimes be within range to work and sometimes you can just connect RCA's directly to the stock head unit, it is all dependent on the output voltage from the stock radio. This is why it usually works better with LOC's to use the amp's output, this way you know you have a speaker level signal and that is what a LOC is meant to work with.
Another thing OP may want to try is unplugging one RCA cable from the amp, if the LOC was wired out of phase it could cause the problems he is having and unplugging one cable will show it immediately.
That was really over my head, man! I won't lie!
So, say I figure out what the RCA cable is and unplug it. What am I looking for?
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Thanks for all the advice, guys. I really appreciate it!
Have you checked the ohm load of the subwoofer wire at the amp yet?
Unfortunately not! I have free time now though. So I promise you I will go open that dmm now and see what I can do.
I have seen shops carpet prefab enclosures real nice. Its crazy. Hope that didn't happen.
I'm thinking its more the signal to the amp. Need to figure out where its coming fromThat would be super bogus if they did that to me.
I hope it didn't happen either.
I may take THX's advice and hit that shop up again and ask some questions.
I wasn't joking
There's my problem then, not the sub.
haha
Seems like im kinda late to the party but my advice would be since youve already invested a good amount of money into the system get a DD1 to set your gains properly and ether build a good box or find someone to build one for you and ditch that prefab box. Another thing is when i first installed a system into my current car i used the stock HU and a RCA converter. After about 2 months or so i decided to get a Pioneer HU so i could run a USB drive. It made my sub WAY more clear and loud. Just a little food for thought.
I have been considering a bigger box, i'm under the impression that can make the sub louder.
As for head units and all that, if i'm going to spend money i'm thinking i'll get the other 10" IF I mistakenly got a D1 sub (Nice trick SSA
), however, if indeed there was no mistake, then i'll look into the upgrades you speak of.Your first bit of advice is awful. [highlight]The DD1 isn't even a good paperweigh[/highlight]t and is absolutely useless for setting gains.
LOC's regularly roll off frequency wise so it is possible you had one that had far from stellar performance. And yes a real box is paramount, more important than the driver.@the highlight: wow lol
Real box though, that may be the issues. I think the video helped eliminate some factors. For instance, I believe we can see that I just want more SPL. haha
Have you tryed not having the bass knob plunged in?
I didn't even know you can do that. O_o
Then how will I know if i'm clipping out the sub though?
Because normally when it sounds good and loud is when it's clipping.
Nice car! Your sub for sure is not moving to it's potential, However it sounds good, so we know the sub is not the problem. First thing to do your self is unscrew the sub from the box and verify what ohms your voice coils are, take out your DMM look at it's book and it will tell you where to set the knob for reading ohms, simply touch both positive and negative terminals with the prongs/or clips from DMM on one lead at a time ( where the wires clamp into each side of the woofer ) and write the reading down to post here. Then on your Head Unit make sure that ALL sub settings are set to ZERO with no bass boost (make sure your sub level is not like negative 16 or something crazy in your settings), ALSO if your H/U has a setting for the size of woofer it is working with, make sure it is set at "10" Next I would take the car into the shop with the install reciept and make sure they did not use the pre existing amp that is in your car but instead to run directly from your H/U to your new amp...I am positive these things will help you...If in fact a mistake was made and you got a dual 1 ohm sub, you could wire it to 2ohms (dont think your amp will handle a .5ohm load) untill you get another dual 1ohm sub so you can run at 1ohm. Don't let this overwhelm you! ...One simple step at a time
Thanks a TON for the advice, man!
And thanks for the compliment. I like it.
On to the sub though!
As for the DMM, do I have my car running with no music playing, or do I want music playing while testing? I'm not sure.
Thanks for the walkthrough on it by the way. It takes a little bit of the overwhelming factor away from me!
On my head unit I have everything zero'd out. I sometimes turn the treble up one notch and the midrange I normally have negative. Like negative 1 or two.
My h/u unfortunately has no settings to calibrate which size sub you have to my knowledge. I'm fairly sure i've scanned through all the settings.
I can walk in to the shop tomorrow most likely. I'll ask if they ran directly from my H/U to the new amp. Thanks for the advice, man.
Say, worst comes to worst, I got the wrong type sub, will I notice an improved with the other sub running off the same amp at a lower impedance?
I've got a lot of work to do! First time ever working with things like this for me.
That is true...I think in all this advice we have forgetten to mention that the amp's Level/Gain knob needs to match your H/U's output voltage!!!
ead right. He said the box said dual 1 coils. Who ordered the sub?
How do I do that!
As for the outside of the car and not hearing it, good. That should be your exact goal. Whatever you want on the inside and dead silent on the out. That goal is tough though.As far as moving things, it's because I want that "punch in the gut" or "hard to breath" effect. I just want to feel the bass. You know what I mean? Maybe i'm talking with the wrong people, but I don't want a nice sounding low sub. I want a banging sub tearing things up! xD
However, maybe I've completely set my expectations too high.
And if I would have a banging sub that you can't hear on the outside, great! As of now, i'd at least want a sub i'm satisfied with on the inside. Not left desiring more power and output.
Thanks for being patient with me, guys. I got off work relatively early. Give me a little time, and I should be back with some numbers once I figure this out and disconnect the sub.
One other thing I've been thinking of getting installed. A volt meter. So I can see what my sub is getting. Any advice on those, for instance, it's hooked up at the amp, right?
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Hello guys, I've been really busy with work and hanging out with my girl, but today is my Friday. I will make a full on post responding to everyone after work. I currently am sneaking this post in at work.
So my girl and I edited up this video footage yesterday, and I took the footage a day before that.
It was shot at night, but I used my phone as a light to light up the sub. I hope it's decent quality.
It starts off inside my car pretty much blasting (not sure the audio will do it justice) I have the volume set to approx. 73% volume. Higher than average listening volume. I showcase how like NOTHING is moving in the car. Review mirror, center console, side mirrors, NOTHING!
Then I switch to outside the car so you can see how you can barely hear it outside the vehicle. Then I cut to with the hatchback open and showcasing the actual sub moving. Check it out, guys. It's not outstanding quality or anything, but I hope it helps a little bit.
I don't mean to post so sparingly, but I'm free the next couple days, so I will take care of business then.
Frog, thats when I'll try and check out that dmm. It's over my head right now, so it's why I've been putting it off. xD
And guys. I kinda made a decision. If this sub turns out to be a D1, I can buy another D1 so I can wire two subs at 1ohm. Hopefully my amp would support that. I believe that'd be louder. I would be moving more air theoretically, just less watts per sub.
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Something I have seen shops do, when someone brought them gear to install is set things wrong on purpose so you'll go back. It's a nasty sales tactic. You're unhappy so you go back and they pull the, "gee we don't have issues like that with the product we sell. What you brought us must be cheap, etc..."
And then sell people on their products and change the settings/wiring on the reinstall so that their gear functions properly.
The only subs I'd get from these shops are W7s. I've heard good things about those subs.
That kind of setup is a small penis.what kind of setup do you have to have where you drive in front of a house and shake that houses windows? That's something I've always been fascinated with. That, and when you can hear someone's bass from a block away.
lol
Pictures will take longer, but I got you, frog!!
know lol. And with the sub out we will be able to see port length and how well the enclosure was even builtOr it might be the way the amp is tuned.
If I read that thread right. He said the box said dual 1 coils. Who ordered the sub?
I ordered the sub. D2. But it's possible there was an error. Because when I got the box the D1 box was circled.
I'm thinking it may be the way the amp is tuned. That, or maybe I should of looked into the biggest amp I could possibly push on a stock alt.
Disturbing the peace is all the rage these days, bro.
Cool! Good deal. Hope you can get this figured outMe too, bro. Thanks a lot, frog. You've been a big help.
I've found that some songs can hit decently, but it still leaves something to be desired.
__________________________
My girlfriend says that she's not trying to criticize my sub, she says she loves my little sub. Just ever since I turned down the bass boost it's been an underwhelming sub.
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I will take the sub out today and take some pictures. Hopefully that will clear this up.
EDIT:
Guys, typing on my phone takes too long. I AM A go to my girlfriends and use her laptop so I can better respond.
On the up and up, I bought a DMM. Just gotta figure out how to use it. It was on sale for like $12 too. Beast.
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Good question, if I go by your way with the dmm we would know wiring is an issue with me not taking out 6 screws or whatever it is. o.o
Why does he need to take the sub out of the box?
Its not that hard. Just need to unscrew all the screws around the sub and take it out of the enclosure. And take some pictures of the sub and inside the enclosure if you can
Thanks again, THX! That will come in handy as soon as I have the courage to open up the sub. xDNo problem! Here is the specific wiring you need for your sub to lesson any confusion!http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg
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Pretty straight forward!
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and see what ohm reading you get at those wires.
Thanks again, THX! That will come in handy as soon as I have the courage to open up the sub. xDNo problem! Here is the specific wiring you need for your sub to lesson any confusion!
Thanks, pmureika!
I'll post results as soon as I buy the dmm.
Will do!
Its not that hard. Just need to unscrew all the screws around the sub and take it out of the enclosure. And take some pictures of the sub and inside the enclosure if you can
Thanks again, THX! That will come in handy as soon as I have the courage to open up the sub. xDNo problem! Here is the specific wiring you need for your sub to lesson any confusion!http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg
Sounds easy enough. I can do all this as soon as I get off work. Should hopefully be a ten hour day today (possibly 12) but if I have the strength when I'm out, I'll get all this done for you guys. I really wanna start with the process of elimination so we can find out if it's me...or the setup!
Expect a full on update of my attempts this night.
I only hope I have enough time. If not, this weekend works much better for me. I work more like 4 hours sat/sun lately, so I could get pics for you guys then, and most likely a video of the sub in action.
I had some downtime at work this whole time. I'm going to see if it's picked up. If it has, I'll reconvene with you guys when I'm free. Should be about 7 hours from now if it's time for me to put in work before clocking out.
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Found a work around to multi quote
Exactly, frog. They're lucky I'm having a hard time with this or else I wouldn't need them.
Yea that's how it is around here. I dont understand it. Why work at an audio shop if your not going to learn about audio lol. There mostly just cocky sales peopleAlmost all of these issues I've read is why I can't and won't support my local audio shops....seems like they must all be the same. Over charging man hours only to wire things completely wrong, build boxes cheaply, massively screw up H/U paramaters and Amp tuning...etc. I can't even stand to call them for advice knowing they are wrong most of the time...Too many times have I had to fix their mistakes from installs in friends vehicles, and a couple in my own, so I went ROUGE...LOL They don't like me now, they tell me my brand of OFC cables are inferior, Hifonics amps suck, and that they have never heard of Fi Audio, just to quote a few...LMAO
Maybe I missed the info, but how is the audio reaching the amps? Head unit with RCA or line output converter? What head unit do you have?
I have a stock head unit. I drive a Ford Focus Titanium and the headunit is already touch screen so I didn't wanna mess with any of that. So I can't say specifically because they didn't talk to me about this, but whatever is stock, that's all I can say is how it's reaching the amp.
The reason I was asking about the head unit was because some factory OEM headunits can attenuate the bass as volume increases. Im just curious how they took the signal from the head unit, Line Output Converter? If so which one? LOC's also have a gain setting, maybe its not correct?
Did your car have a factory amp already in place? Did they tap the signal from the factory amp or directly from the head unit?
Wow, crackin, good question! You know, it may be possible they tapped a factory amp, because this car did come with a stock rinky dink factory sub. Now THAT one you for sure couldn't tell it was there.
I think I have to go back to the shop now. I only hope they can remember what they did.
I'll ask what they wired the sub to while I'm there, and ask how they took the signal from the factory head unit to the amp. I believe that should clear some things up.
These guys aren't too fun to work with though, so this should be interesting. Haha
They originally tried to get me to upgrade my head unit. I just didn't want to because I didn't know my options.
This sub setup is more overwhelming than I originally anticipated! Haha
I wish I could answer everyone's questions, but these guys were like "here's your keys, we're done. Everything is as you asked" pretty much.
I tried asking questions and they were just like "yeah, we did that. It's all set"
Took two days for the install
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No problem! Here is the specific wiring you need for your sub to lesson any confusion!
Thanks again, THX! That will come in handy as soon as I have the courage to open up the sub. xD
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There is actually a harbor freight on the way home from my work. I can hit it up really quick if they're still open. Get this situation settled.if you have a Harbor Freight they have great multi meters at great prices also, and yes they are really simple to use, specially after a quick glance at the pamphlet that comes with them. Here is a link to a good wiring diagram just in case you find that is part of the issue. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BuKZLVUhlTK/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
Thanks for that diagram by the way. I'm sure it will come in handy, THX.
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First car, desiring first sub
in Subwoofers / Speakers
Posted
Right on, dude! Hows the sub firing up work out for you? I'm debating in keeping it firing backwards. Although, it hits pretty good right now.
Sweet video. I can't fit a box as big as that because of my battery in the back, but I can work something bigger in the back.