Jump to content

THX_Elite

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    307

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by THX_Elite

  1. Posted

    most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. 

    0

  4. Posted

    32hz is always a good tuning for these heavy duty subs I believe, however, I don't know what the XCON wants in terms of space and tuning, or rather, what it desires for best performance. If 32hz fits right around the middle of reccomendation, I would surely choose 32hz and use the max internal volume INCLUDING SUBWOOFER AND PORT DISPLACEMENTS!!! listed under vented specs.  To quote Alton...

     

    " As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume of the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure.  So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total." 

     

    Your number's may be different but the same practice still applys.  Your subwoofer's website/manual will list it's volume, or someone on these forums will know specifically.

    0

  6. Posted

    And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol

    Also don't forget there is a break in period of nearly a month on those subs before they reach their full potential of excursion and loudness, just go easy on her for a while and she'll start to open up for ya, and if your going to stick with a that particular sub look into getting the max sized volume within spec tuned to the lowest hz within spec :)

    1

  7. Posted

    Ok...I have for Idaho: (and these are matching sets) and all 1/B for Bannock County

    Years: '58, '59, '61, '62, '65, '66, '67, and '68 these years vary between green and white.

    $10 a piece

     

    Then I have a matching set of Blue Callifornia's and 1 white California,

    a yellow Alaska, and a white Montana

    $5 a piece

     

    Let me know what you think!

    nightrider.gif

    0

  8. Posted

     

    If your still interested in old plates, my parents and I run a antique and automotive shop and we possibly have a few to a lot of OLD plates, we're talkin' 40's 50's 60's....I will look into it if your still around and looking.  Just let me know.morning.gif

    defintely interested. Let me know what you have.  

     

    Will do I am heading to the shop here in a few minutes and will get back to you shortly after.

    0

  11. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    If your still interested in old plates, my parents and I run a antique and automotive shop and we possibly have a few to a lot of OLD plates, we're talkin' 40's 50's 60's....I will look into it if your still around and looking.  Just let me know.morning.gif

    0

  12. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    Thanks for clarifying that Alton, at the moment I, personally, do have improper port tuning and internal box volume for my T1 and still have little to no port noise, however I do fire it all backwards, (other wise i'm sure I'd here a bit of it) but that is going to be rectified when my Fi BL and it's fancy new enclosure arrive!  I'm a lucky one as for trunk rattle as my Mazda Millinia doesn't have that issue very bad at all..wonder if it has to do with being the "L" version...anyways....

     

    Thanks also for making note that since the OP prefers the sound and feel of the forward firing design to make sure and keep anything from blocking the driver and port. 

     

    I don't have the option to fire forward as my back seat is two pieces, the bench and the back rest, and the back rest does not fold down.  So instead I have a nearly 1 foot square hole in the deck below my back window that air shoots thru when I'm poundin' It's sounds great and you can really feel the air come at you still.

     

    I hope the OP can fit his desired enclosure design in his trunk opening while keeping the same volume.

     

    (learning as I move a long in these forums is my intention!)

    0

  13. Posted

    You will get the most of your sub when you fire it and the port towards the rear in most CAR applications...this way you don't get "port noise" from the air, let's the sound waves reverb off of the rear of the car then the dash/windshield before it hits your ears and it gives the listener more of a physical experience, IMO.  There are videos on you tube about how to get the most, measured, spl out of your setup when positioning your enclosure.  You would gain spl by facing the sub and port to the stern :) I know that for sure(in a car). 

    0

  14. Posted

    I understand, I realize I posted in a way that is non desirable to myself or to others.  I like my Hifonics but at the same time I would most certainly enjoy a few certain brands over what I have now for sure..Specially some that are connected with this forum.  I love this place and mean not to sound ridiculous.

    0

  16. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    ya,  I don't disagree with that by any means, these are just what I know to be reliable amps that are cea compliant and have nice and accurate rms ratings, at a good price, and run at cool temps.  I wouldn't mind running a RF1500BDCP but those are 700 bucks and at least 500 used.  There are many options out there and I am sure quite a few good sellers in this forum who might have better choices in amps for sale also. 

     

    I have gone through many amps and the ones I found to be the best were RF and Hifonics as in term of lasting for ages.  Heck my brother has been using and abusing a Hifonics Titan for over 6 years now and it still runs cool and clean, where I have had many Fosgates' die on me in a lot shorter time, not to mention they run A LOT hotter.

     

    Since I have found SSA though, I now have more desire to branch out into some different brand amps I have been seeing and researching!

     

    I don't like tootin' horns on specific brands as "to each their own" is an important factor here, and just wanted to offer a person on a budget, like me, a suggestion I am familiar with is all.  I know there are a lot better amps out there, for sure smile.png

    0

  17. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    I personally am absolutely In love with Hifonics amps purchased directly from sonic electronix, they are super amps, well built, look nice, are very capable and are loved by A TON of people, not to mention are VERY reasonably priced you could get two of my amps and still have enough to get an amp for your fronts and money left over!!! ... my amps are in my signature...

     

    For subs:

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67934_Hifonics-BRX1600.1D.html x2

    ^what I chose for the rear of my car^

     

    For Fronts:  I'd prefer a 4 channel but that's all up to you...Here is a good 2 channel...leaves room to upgrade...

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67927_Hifonics-BRX160.2.html

     

    or...

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-ZRX1000.4.html

    ^what I chose for the front of my car^

     

    ...having xtra power overhead, means a lot when it comes to feeding your mid's clean power, meaning you wont have to turn the amp "level/gain" as high to achieve desired loudness and clarity...just make sure your electrical is up to par!

    0

  21. Posted

     

    I have an Fi on order but I'm thinkin' I may grab one of your new 12" models also!!  For the price ya just can't beat it, always good to have a nice back up plan.

    Be careful your backup may become your number one starter!  doindadomodance.gif

     

    Nah, I'm interested in the Fi BL 12" i ordered :)  these are just a great looking driver at a great price that I wouldn't mind using in case I ever had to send in the BL for some TLC, which given their good rep and my experience I shouldn't need to do.  I'm just a dang addict and can't stop shopping for subs even though I've ordered one already...Lmao

    1

  22. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

     

    Here is my Big 3 smile.png ...self installed, I like it!

     

    thank you!

     

    How low does your voltage drop?

    ~in my case

    It doesn't hardly drop at all...plus, on the first, I am doubling the alternator output to 180amps in preperation for my fully loaded Fi BL 12" that ill be running at 1600rms...right now I am on a 90amp alty, running a 12" Rockford T1 at 1600rms even tho the sub is only 800rms

    0

  25. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    The way that you match your H/U's voltage out put with the amp input is first, Know what voltage your pre-outs on your H/U are, mine for example are 4v.  Then all you have to do is set the amp "level/gain" knob to your H/U's pre amp voltage(this can be found in your H/U booklet or google your model of H/U).  NEVER set the "level/gain" above the H/U's pre amp voltage.  Adding another sub should be the last thing on your mind right now my friend!  Figure this stuff out first!

    0
×