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THX_Elite

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Posts posted by THX_Elite

  1. Posted

    I do like your choices in batteries, I went with the diehard platinum/marine front AND rear with a Mechman 270a.. Issue output is trash and I wish they would've advertised it. They claim half the output at idle but there version of the is between 799-850rpm on the dash .. Might have someone adjust the pulley on it at some point.

    I saw no issues when running my bc3500 at 2ohms and my mbq 150.4

    That is my main concern in picking a company for H/O alternators, mine NEEDS to be built with the higher output being at low rpm's/idle...Maniac Electrical Motors assured me that outcome.  But I am still trying to speak with Singer Alternators.

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  2. Posted

    you might find that even with some voltage dropping you will be ok with leisure listening even with some short loud sessions.  You are running at 2 ohms so the drop should not be quite as bad as you experienced before.  It helps if you have the big 3, as in upgraded grounds from battery to engine and chassis and from alt to battery. The big 3 makes a huuuge difference.

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  3. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    Nice choice of Battery : ) you would benifit from a H/0 alternator, your case is similar to mine in that you are drawing twice or more the amps off of your battery than your alternator can easily replace, meaning your alt is behind the the curve when it comes to your electrical.  1/0 gauge is always going to be best when running a length to the rear of your car. 

     

    I would recommend that you check how much voltage drainage you get at maximum volume that you listen to when your car IS running on a heavy bass note...I did that same thing yesterday and noticed it went from 14.4v straight to 12, and then started creeping down further on the first strong and long bass note, I have a stock 90 amp and a group 65-PC1750 Odessey.

     

    Keep in mind I am only running 1 12" sub at 1600watts RMS.  We both could surely benifit from a H/O alternator, and possibly even a battery in the trunk...it really depends on if your battery is dipping below 12- 12.6 volts-that is never good for what we want.

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  5. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    he is just showing you when you have a question to post how to keep it easy to read/answer, you will get more replys that way smile.png

     

    ...Have not heard from Singer yet, although it is just past 11 o clock there, just testing their response time and hoping for a good estimate on the H/O Alty that I need!

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  8. Posted

    I am also wanting to upgrade to a H/O alt.  I was told to check out "Ohio Generators" and ask for "Tom".  Just one option...I have had my eye on a "Maniac Electrical Motors" alternator because they have a stock drop in for my car that is double the amps at 180, and they have a fantastic sales lady that is ALWAYS available and answers calls within the first couple rings.  That to me means a lot in itself!  They also do not "overbuild" their alt's, they make sure that their alt's can hang tough at low rpm's which is how must of us are bumping our cars and is important for no voltage drops at low rpm/even idle, while having high output from the stereo. 

     

    IMO the yellow top optima's are the way to go if you get them at cost.  However, I am personally interested to see if the DieHard Platinum's would work well in the back of my car with my military grade Odyssey group 65-PC1750 under the hood!

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  9. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    I had a older Tahoe at one point.. Found a higher output alt and bought it. Worst purchase ever. Every time I stopped at a light or stop sign the pos would drop voltage badly. Unless I was like 2k rpm or higher it was garbage. Pissed me off watching the gauge drop that much so often. Moral of the story is spend a few extra bucks on the alternator if your going to do it.

    Edit: was a db electric alt and I think I spent no more than like $200. Glad that's gone. Turned around and bought a DC power alt for the next one.

    I was just thinking, my family are mechanics...are you sure the first alternator you bought was a stock drop in with the same size pully?  Because if it was a different diameter it would most surely affect your idle speed voltage.

    Update: I also learned some more and I do, in fact, actually "NEED" a H/O Alternator so I will be ordering one on the 1st for sure!

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  10. Posted

    The one I want to order is 288 dollars, I'm not sure that the price of the alternator matters, what matters to me is if there is a warranty, and if it is a direct fit application...The mazda Millinia I have takes 3.5 man hours to change out alternators, and that is without any issues!  I mean the thing is buried DEEP under the Valve cover and sandwiched up against the radiator!...So in truth I'm hoping when my Fi BL get's here that I have no issues with powering it.

    Right now I feed my Rockford T1 all 1600 watts of my amp having the gain set at .4v which is what my H/U output is, and can turn the H/U 98% up with out any issues, so I really have high hopes.  Plus the box is to small for the sub at 1.5^3 tuned at around 40hz, I don't know if that is harder to run full power or easier, maybe someone could shed some light on that part?  Because my new box is shipping out today to house the Fi BL and is actually the correct size. 2.5^3 after sub, brace and port displacements and tuned right at 32hz...I may just get another battery (if needed) and hold off on the alternator since I know this one works as it should.

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  11. Posted

      I have taken both of them out just for that reason to see if there were any issues and there were none.  There are no electrical issues, or voltage dropping.  In fact when I installed the system and big 3 I solved some electrical issues that came with the car when I bought it!

     

      I just want the H/O alternator that I am going to get on the 1st of April, from Maniac Electric Motors...they have a stock replacement drop in that is double the amps which is 180amps for not much money brand new.  I actually don't even "need" that, it will just be better over all to have it in place given my stock 90amp has 188k miles on it!

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  14. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

     

     

     

      Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums.  It really is up to you if you want to have one or not.  It will not make nor will it break your system.  ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc.

     

    actually capacitors mask problems with the charging system 

     

    ya if they do anything, they do that the best for sure! 

     

    It's funny, I have two installed, one is 175farad "batcap" and the other is a quicker firing 1farad SWX.  Well I started the car and turned on my system and all was running well, but I realized OH SHIT....My circuit breaker at the battery that goes to my 175farad cap, then 1farad cap then to the amp was not engaged!!!

    But to my surprise the system was bumping quite nicely for around 3-5 minutes, until I completed the circuit. lol.

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  15. Posted

      LMAO at the car audio shop,...they are all the same...Running it how you want to run it is absolutely fine, IF it fits where you want it to AND it gets proper cooling.  You don't truly need 1/0 gauge wire for only 1200 watts but there is nothing wrong with buying that gauge as it leaves room for upgrades down the road and IMO is actually a good Idea Keep in mind you only need 4 gauge, 2 gauge tops for the amp that is powering mids.

     

      Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums.  It really is up to you if you want to have one or not.  It will not make nor will it break your system.  ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc.

     

      Your electrical output(alternator)needs to be sufficient to prevent those types of things and also making sure you have the "Big 3" upgrade performed under the hood of your car will surpass the effects of just buying a capacitor alone!

     

      Once you get the sub you want in this case the Alpine Type R dual 2(...btw, MUCH BETTER SUBS ARE HERE IN THE FORUMS FOR LESS MONEY)the amp you have will run that sub just fine when your sub woofer is wired in parallel to equal a 1ohm load.

     

      I would also urge you to make sure your current enclosure will accomodate the specs of the subwoofer your upgrading to.  For example make sure that your enclosure in this case sealed has enough internal volume or in other words cubic feet, or in a ported encloser that is both tuned properly to the sub you want and has enough cubic feet of air space.

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  18. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    Puscifer:"You're playing below tuning. If the port is only 32hz 23hz should be almost nonexistent. Ssf needs to be set a little higher."

    Thanks! I looked up a video on how to set it using a DDM. If I can figure it out, I think that way should be pretty simple.

    "most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. "

    Thanks, man. You're a great help! I want to set that and my lpf using my new dmm. I'm also thinking of building my own box. If I look up what tools I'll need and materials, I'm sure I could dedicate a weekend to it. Give my girl and I a little project that we both can participate in. Gotta get this sub going in a worthy box!

    Also...not to disappoint anyone, or you, THX, but I kind of already did damage the sub. It was a total accident.

    EDIT:

    The video is coming up as private on my phone. Thats weird. I can't change it to anything on my phone, but when I get home I'll change it for you guys. Unfortunate.

    AAHH, bummer maaaan!!!  It's all good though most of us have damaged more than just one woofer!  Just know this the next time around...You MOST CERTAINLY can fit a 12" with spec volume and I would tune it too 32hz depending on the sub of course, I have a WAAY smaller trunk opening and am using a 12" woofer and box.

    Here is the box I chose for my fully pimped out Fi BL12":

     

    http://www.fatboxusa.com/products/1-mdf-12-fi-audio-btl-subwoofer-sub-enclosure-box.html

     

    I can tell you want more bass than that 10 can safely produce anyways smile.png  Also that box will work with all kinds of subs as long as their cutout diameter is 11.124" and their demanding specs fall with in this enclosures specs!   ...not that this expensively built and shipped enclosure needs purchased specifically but all in all i think it is a great design and it's built like a tank!

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  20. Posted

     

    One nice thing is that I live in Idaho which is very close to Vegas, comparatively!! So shipping will be nice and quick!

    I live in utah. Don't quote me on this but I think you and I are on a very short list of people in this area that even know about any of these " underground" audio companies. I have been trying to spread the word tho.

     

    Same here, NO ONE in my town has any of these drivers from SSA, the car audio shops in this town havn't even heard of them, let alone the car audio croud! I just can't wait till mine shows up so I can really get the word out :)

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  21. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    I looked and the best looking ones for a collection is a white 68 and a green 67 will this be fine?

     

    So that will be 35 plus shipping ...12.35 I believe for flat rate USPS priority mail so $47.35

    I decided to list these plates elsewhere and are selling really fast but I will hold these ones untill I here from you!

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  23. Posted

    ok, the montana sold, but I can get you all of the others.  For the Idaho ones do you prefer a certain year or prefer the best pick of the lot?  the 58's are sold, other than that you have your pick.  For shipping these will fit in a USPS flat rate package just fine and is a flat shipping fee, that you would need to pay which is $12.35 and payment needs to be thru paypal to protect both you the buyer and me the seller, and also the package.  PM me your desired shipping address and I will reply with the paypal email, and ship the same day.

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  24. Posted

    I wouldn't cancel my order...it was just an early morning on the fly remark...I am an but a squire in the school of patience, lol...I don't know Fi, as well as you Alton, but there are few replies and testimonials like yours that are what makes me trust in them and their product. :)

    As for "crying", lmao, and not knowing what business days are, I think some have misunderstood my integrity and knowledge of how the world "works".  Also I don't care if they answer emails or not, I have not even sent an email nor have I sent a message thru my order page since I made the order as I do know that they are nearly insurmountably busy. 

     

    I want to also mention that I never said Fi has bad customer service, I am sure that since it is common knowledge they don't email back as soon as people would like that ALL of their customer service that I desire is going into the craftmanship of the driver that I ordered.

     

    I am, on the enclosure side of things, also experiencing some extreme delay's in getting my box finished and shipped from FATBOX USA, due to the same "tax season" work load...but I do have the confidence in both company's that they will send quality products at their earliest convenience and when they are satisfied the product is good enough to ship to their customers.  Thanks for calling me out on my previous post though.  Fi won't lose this customer...I have built my whole rear end of my car in and around the anticipation of this specific order.

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  25. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    I don't mind waiting a month but I will probly cancel payment if it takes much past that. It says 7-15 days to build, account for them being busy = a month, 60 days is just out of hand.

    my order is just above the OP's by not that far and he got his in a month...

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