zaytser

Well I switched out my Alpine PDX 1.1000 with my Earthquake 200DHC and instantly I noticed a difference. So I don't know if my alpine amp is poor or it is just because the Earthquake is supposes to put out 2000 watts at 2 ohms. I would say it only puts out a half to 3/4 of that rms rating. I only have to turn the gain up a 1/3 of the way. However it does not have a subsonic afilter, so should I be putting this sub back in a sealed enclosure. It is currently in a slot ported box tuned to 30-35 hz, can't quite remember and the amp is crossed over at 70 hz. Also I am still experiancing a loss of bass where I sit. My seat is back further and if I move my head closerr to the dash the bass is so much better. It is as if where I sit there is a dead zone as far as sub bass is concerned I have shot the sub and port up into the ceiling, facing forward and facing backward. So far facing the rear hatch is best, but I know major improvements can be made. Any ideas?

Can't bypass the alpine processor as it has the 4 volt pre outs. The low voltage ouput of a Mac mini would be terrible. However I do have an old Earthquake 200DHC that was supposed to put out 2000 watts at 2 ohms so I will try that as well. There are several things mentioned that I will try before giving up. One thing interesting though, is that the bass seems to hit pretty hard and low close to the dash and windshield. I have my seat set quite aways back for leg room and the bass is way different even though it is only about a foot and a half away difference. Not sure if that is just the door speakers or if that is the sub bass.

Ha, there is your first mistake. Don't assume the posts are labeled correctly. Test it yourself. So you are saying that Alpine's instructions may be at fault? All I know is that the amp is supposed to be bridged all the time so you don't have to do any extra wiring. The sub as well, but there is something clearly wrong as there is nomway that a 1000 watts is going to that sub. Guess it is time to upgrade my crappy multi meter. He's not saying the instructions are wrong, but the terminal posts on the actual driver may be switched around So would I just test the terminals to see if in fact the positive and negative are labled incorrectly? Would there be a problem in testing that with the way Alpine has this jumper set up? My knowledge in this area od car audio is limited.

Ha, there is your first mistake. Don't assume the posts are labeled correctly. Test it yourself. So you are saying that Alpine's instructions may be at fault? All I know is that the amp is supposed to be bridged all the time so you don't have to do any extra wiring. The sub as well, but there is something clearly wrong as there is nomway that a 1000 watts is going to that sub. Guess it is time to upgrade my crappy multi meter. He's not saying the instructions are wrong, but the terminal posts on the actual driver may be switched around Ya, I am going to try everything I can to find out what is wrong. If none of my attempts of finding the problem resolve the issue, the equipment may be the issue, but I doubt it. We will see this weekend. I know this sub and amp perform better than whatbI have experienced. I have seen plenty of vids of the type x shaking the shit out of people vehicles.

No doubt. I am not too worried about getting crazy loud, but it is just frustrating that my sub and amp set up hardly perform any better than tiny little 7 inch woofer that comes stock in most GM Bose factory systems. Gotta get a digital multi meter and see what is going on with my amps and electrical. It could be the 2.25-2.5 cube box tuned to 30-35 hz. It may be to big. Alpine actually only recommends .75 -1 cube sealed and 1.5 cubes ported. I tried a small sealed enclosure and it sounded like poo as well. Been busy with work and family so this simple job keeps getting put off. Thanks for all the input guys. Keep throwing out some ideas as to what may be my problem. All the help is appreciated.

Ha, there is your first mistake. Don't assume the posts are labeled correctly. Test it yourself. So you are saying that Alpine's instructions may be at fault? All I know is that the amp is supposed to be bridged all the time so you don't have to do any extra wiring. The sub as well, but there is something clearly wrong as there is nomway that a 1000 watts is going to that sub. Guess it is time to upgrade my crappy multi meter.

There is no way that the sub is wired incorrectly. The type x has two jumpers that are plugged into it that allow for easy wireing. I have checked the users manuals online multiple times before dropping the sub in the enclosure. However I am so desperate I may have to check it anyways. No matter what my crossover or gain are set at I just don't feel the bass. I have a feeling that the box may be too big. But a couple years ago on this forum and on caraudio.com/forums, the consensus was to use the box I have. Maybe my amp is faulty? Don't get me wrong, there is bass, it just isn't impressive at all for what Alpine claims this sub should do. My $200 home theatre sub punches harder. Also the alpine processor may not be putting out the 4 volts from the pre outs. It is just weird that my 5 channel alpine pdx amp gain is only up half way runnning my front end flawlessly, yet my pdx 1.1000 sub amp can have the gain up 3/4 of the way and it doesn't keep up to my components. Maybe I am just expecting too much from 1 12" woofer in an H2 Hummer cab?

I mentioned in my first post I use a mac mini carputer which has the signal boosted by an Alpine PXE-H650 with Ant Eq processing (4 volt preouts). My subsonic filter is at 30 and my gain is just barely passed half way as I haven't tested it, because I am not sure if my old school multi meter is accurate. My box is 2.25 cubes to 2.5 cubes tuned to I believe 30-35 hz. I got the box design off of caraudio.com/forum over a year ago. The system has been in for over a year and I have fiddled with it a bit but,it seems like I forhet everything I have learned about car audio after a year just listening to the system. I suspect my box may be at fault or the Alpine processor as originally it was supposed to hook inline with the factory bose system to flatten out the response before running the auto EQ. However Alpine designed it to splice into the factory speaker wires and I felt that was a pretty cheap way to integrate amps and subs into a factory system, so I removed the factory system completely and just auto eq'd the carputer. Unfortunately a couple of steps are skipped when just using the Processors aux source so that may be the problem. Wish I could explain it better. The rest of the system sounds great.

But making the enclosure for the 12 is much more difficult to do over the wheel well. I sat the type x over the wheel well last summer to see what may be possible but it sticks out too far. I am also cotnsidering shalloe mount subs. I would most likely end up with a sealed application.

Ya I was thinking I could make two boxes that would sit on top of each rear wheel well (fibreglass set up perhaps). I also have read that thr shallow mount SI's are popular but are not in stock as of yet. I am definitely more into an overall sound quality system that is more effeicient and not so hungry for power, but at the moment it is as if my type x mids up front are contributing more kick than my type x 12. However I do like to feel some bass in my chest. I just cannot sacrifice too much room as within the next year the truck will be laying rocker panel and the frame notch will not allow a big ugly box.

Hi guys. I currently am running a single Alpine SWX-1242D with a pdx 1.1000 in a 2.25 - 2.5 cubic foot enclosure in the back of my Hummer. I csn't remember what it is tuned to, as I got the design off of a forum a couple years ago. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get the ouput I want. I am not sure why, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bass. My input source is a Mac mini running to an Alpine PXE 650 with the Ant EQ, which has 4 volt pre outs. I also run a stock batt, with a yellow top optima in the back. Stock alternator and all power And grounds are 0 gauge welding cable. So since I can't firgure out the problem other than the box may not be right, I think I would like to get multiple 8 inch drivers and get rid of the large box with the 12 type X. With the smaller drivers I could build a box that sits over either wheel well in the back and possibly have one up front. I have never been a big fan of big boxes and gave it a shot with the type x but it hasn't worked out. What are my options for 8 inch drivers out there other than the Sundown SA-8 and Soundsplinter RL i8 as they don't seem to be avsilable yet? Or is there something you can recommend to get my type x playing right. I know it is more of a sq sub, but quite a few have gotten way more output than me. I don't have any real bass cd tracks, just listen to rap, mostly old school, but the bass is still poor. My old school pioneer from a decade ago sounded just as loud as this type x. Any suggestions are greatly apprectiated.