Cj the newbie
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Posts posted by Cj the newbie
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4 minutes ago, jcarter1885 said:A double din and a mini dsp will give you the capabilities of an 80prs and then some.
True just curious if there was an option that melded the two.
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14 minutes ago, ///M5 said:As for master, I am just a hack...but one that is good at planning.
A hack with a plan comes out with greater results than most. Einstein thought himself something like a hack!
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Well, I would want to be able to have a simple setup. For the first build at least. Something to dive into the world of control audio wise a decent amount of eq control, as well as crossover control. Something that I can mess with but would be easier to fix if I mess up (best way to learn) the ability to play CD's and high quality files, as well with a tuner option. Decent sized screen would be nice, for aesthetic purpose (have to like looking at in the end!) Hopefully dash placement being option. I hope I covered the majority of there's an area I missed let me know. Price wise my theory is I don't mind saving to do it right and high quality
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You are a master I admit it, how would you recommend getting started on running something like this? Is there something that really helped you?
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Just curious if anyone knows of a double din touchscreen hu that could keep up with something such as the 80prs audio control wise. I like to use cds and usbdrives, so extra points for those additionally.
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Happy birthday my friend!
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That's okay thank you for the reply.
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:As with anything it depends on your goals. I have 3 pieces of crap in my boat, does more than I need. Conveniently marine stores and craptons of websites have battery tie downs as well. Sealed batteries don't require a case, but my non-sealed ones do. Got the battery case from the same place
Thank you very much!
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Sorry one was a screenshot, only finished version I could find.
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9 hours ago, Aaron Clinton said:Just to be certain, can you link me to the enclosure you are referring to?
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12 hours ago, Billy Jack said:Yes you need the same size battery's or the weaker one will drain the stronger battery. And I always hook up my amps to the battery in the trunk that way you have shorter runs of wire for maximum power. And you always want to have it secured or other wise it could make contact with some metal and catch fire. Myself I ran one hot wire from my front battery to the rear and grounded my 2nd battery in the trunk with the same grounding point as my amp. But I also ran 2 grounds for my amp as JL recommended. Now my 2 battery's aren't identical but they are they are very similar in size and I haven't had the first problem. You also want to fuse both ends of your hot wire and also have a fuse between your rear battery and your amp other wise you could short out and have a real problem on your hand.
Thanks as always man! One more question...a battery such as an xs, would I have to get some sort of box to surround it, and also how do you secure yours in place?
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9 hours ago, hdrox88 said:This isn't quite right. Just having different sized batteries connected will not cause one to drain the other. Now if one of those batteries is really old/weak, regardless of size, it may bring the resting voltage of the newer/stronger battery down to its level. Also, having mixed chemistry batteries connected can have a similar effect. Meaning, if you had a flooded lead battery and an agm battery connected it wouldn't be ideal. I've personally done that one for a short period of time(less than a year) and noticed no major ill effects, though the agm would rest at the same lower voltage of the flooded battery when connected. After disconnecting the two, the agm bounced back to where it was before.
Keep power and ground runs to the amps short as possible and make sure both connections are solid.
The only reason I'm asking is because I can't fit that large of a battery underhood and no skills to make something to help, so I just wanted to put a little bit larger of a battery in the back! Thank you for the help!
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12 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:You mentioned XS batteries in your post, which tells me you know something about this topic.
My suggestion would be to contact them and discuss this to get an idea that will work for your application.
More of just hearing a reputation. I know about batteries, just not necessarily the how to's etc. But thank you I'll try that!
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I feel like this question has been asked, but I did scour the web and went 30 pages into this forum looking for advice. But I still have questions!
When installing a second battery, some say get the same as what's under your hood, but some say it doesn't matter. Opinions?
How do you suggest securing it in a trunk?
For a battery such as an xs, do I need to put it in some sort of case?
If the batteries are wired in parallel, do I need to hook up my speakers and sub to the second or can I just leave them on the front and the rear battery will flow through it?
These are just a few examples of questions because I am completely blind and when it comes to power supply I really do not want anything not done right, but any input small or large would be appreciated!
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Hello again! Wanted to have a quick poll/question.
So do most of you use MDF or HDPE for door speaker applications? I know some people won't touch any plastic for audio, but some would swear by some of the high quality stuff like HDPE. Your guy's votes/opinions?
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Hello! Even if the answer to this question is no, I still plan to get your dual ported box for my 12" xcons, but I was curious if you still do the box you did for ssa, the flat black with the red port in the middle, or if it was just a limited item for them
I really like the aesthetic of the port centered rather than being on the side.
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Quick question for all of you who are a lot smarter than me! My math told me it wasn't enough but I wanted to double check with you all. If my sound system drives 4100 watts will a 270 amp Max 200 idle alternator be able to support it? Especially accounting a/c etc. If it will that would be awesome, but if not I'll just go with SSA Icons instead of xcons.
Ps I know I could probably get multiple alternators but it would be a tight fit, and personally don't have the capability so it would probably cost too much.
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2 hours ago, altoncustomtech said:Or if you really want killer response building an enclosure will really do the trick. This is a .5cuft ported enclosure tuned to 65hz.
This is reallllyyyyyy helpful man thank you! Honestly pictures like that have been the best on getting me to understand...they both look sweet by the way.. I feel like your baffle pictures is asking the lines of what I'll have to do too!
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2 hours ago, ///M5 said:Unplugging your rears and hearing the stage get worse just means you have work to do on the fronts. Plain and simple. Fix that and retest and you will feel different.
As for where to start on the active front. Whatever you do as a first timer make sure that you can change your settings easily and on the fly. For this I generally would not recommend a processor but a headunit that has the controls built in. It will allow you to fidget as necessary in real time. I haven't run a headunit in nearly 6 years so not sure what is new. In order to help the shopping experience, start digging for headunits that you like and post their crossover specs up here.
As a general rule of thumb only look at ones that allow you to Band Pass the mid. (ie needs a HP & LP at the same time). I also for a new active install think that a graphic eq is easier than a parametric, but like everything in the car audio world there are compromises that can be made.
This is the one I've been looking at.
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9 hours ago, Billy Jack said:Starting to think these guys are just messing with everyone. Yes you can buy baffles all day long, just go to sonic electronics they will send you all you want in two days plus the spacers, gaskets, or what ever M5 wants to call them. I litterely just did the same thing last night using a baffle, second skin, foam gaskets and a spacer from sonic, sounds superb no vibration no nothing just crystal clear mid range.
I might end up sharing that opinion, though this is my first time rehauling my sound system so I figure I might try to do all the bells and whistles and see if it is worth it in my opinion
which is half the fun of learning!
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21 minutes ago, ///M5 said:Your ignorance reeks of troll. Either it is intentional or you really need to actually try something for once before you comment.
The bigger the baffle the better, the more mass the better, the more solid you can make your door the better.
Give me a $100 budget for speakers and a $100 processor and a good install and it will DESTROY a $5,000 component set bolted in the stock mount. Seriously, like not even in the same ballpark. More than half your front stage budget should be in the install. Deadener, CCF, MLV, Baffle, Clay or other mass, and of course doing whatever you need to help the aiming so that it is appropriate for what drivers you bought.
Sound deadener showdown I believe is the company I'm getting my deadener from, I plan on doing my whole car for, never heard of using clay but something I'll look into as well.
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19 minutes ago, Billy Jack said:Go to you tube and watch tutorials and read what experienced installers are doing not just people trying to sell you 20 year old designs with a new name put on it. Heck go to the JL site they go over this stuff in detail in there how to's so does crutchfield. Some really good info in there it won me some throphy's and that and first hand experience is how I learned.
Thank you, even if it seems silly that helped a lot! I didn't know where to start so I chose here hoping for something so that helps a lot!
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1 minute ago, jcarter1885 said:That's great to hear, ask any questions you need?
What vehicle is this, will you get an active capable headunit such as a Pioneer 80PRS, or a processor such as a mini-dsp or jbl ms-8, what locations for speakers do you intend to use, any fabrication skills involved such as glassing doors/pillars, budget for mids and tweeters?
Just a few questions to get you started.
2002 4runner I was going to get a Pioneer AVH-4200NEX budget is near limitless (in a sense) because I don't mind continuously saving until I have proper funds for quality products! Location is a blind area for me I was going to intensely research, and I wouldn't mind fabricating I would just have to buy the tools to do it, so preferably nothing extremely expensive. I wish I had more of a foot in the door in knowledge so I could ask more direct questions when it comes to things.
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14 minutes ago, ///M5 said:The understanding you need to run active you should also have if you install your own system. There are very few adjustments you need to make in a 2 way, but it isn't trivial. Taking the time to learn and plan and understand is huge, but the end result will destroy a comp set for even less budget.
Component sets are almost always a rip off. There are lots on here to help...
I'm seeking to learn the knowledge you keep bringing up but I have no one personal to learn from, and forums can be generic and/or they are too focused on one thing to learn enough from. I want to learn how to do a proper set up. From location, wiring, baffles, speakers, deadening, etc. etc. Just trying to find something to get me there
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Touchscreen HU
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
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By simple I suppose I meant if there was more broad ways of adjustments for at first..I guess I don't truly know how to type what I mean, but yes live adjustments would definitely save me!