Jump to content

Florida_Audio

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    365

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by Florida_Audio

  1. Posted

    4 hours ago, SS Teacher said:

    You paid them for a competent install not a half assed job.  They most certainly shouldn't charge you any money at all because they never did the job right in the first place.

     

    I know you're scared, we all were at one point, but honestly, you CAN do this...

    thanks. yea im going to them tomorrow. made appointment. when i told him theres hissing in the speakers. he said, "well you remember you asked us to raise the gain twice to make it louder for you". i told him immediately that we never even discussed the gains when i was there... super shady. immediately defensive over it and its a lie.

    ill see when i go there....

    0

  2. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    No. EVERY setting and pictures.  We already went over this....no one can help you without it.  Shop is just taking your money atm and it won't help!!

    ok yes, i will see if i can take off my door panel tomorrow morning.

    my bad. i cdidnt think about that as in setup. yes you did mention pictures. sorry. thanks !

    i hope its not very difficult to take off the panel. i would probably only have to disconnect one or two cables?

    i dont have room at all in apartment parking spaces

    its difficult to even open my doors in the narrow parking. i will see what i can do

    0

  4. Posted

    Is changing passive crossover same as changing headunit EQ?

    like i have a 9 band parametric EQ on my alpine 164-bt.

    and i have alpine spr 60c component speakers. the highs are very harsh. and im debating attempting to mess with my doors to edit the crossover. i have absolutely no clue what im doing with it. and dont want to risk much. i cannot find any videos for the year my car is. i have 2013 hyundai elantra coupe. only video i saw was for a 2005 elantra, 4 door. mine is a 2 door also and many years later.

     

    and about the passive crossover. i cant find any pictures only or guides on how to change and edit the crossover? what exactly is an EQ changing. and what exactly is the crossover setting changing? the same thing?

    i just want to lower the harshness of the highs.

    ive heard people say they do -2 or -4 db from crossover for tweeters...? but db is volume? that seems like what i need to edit.

    and ive also heard u edit the high pass or low pass filters on crossovers? so is this the same? this is the frequencies right? so its different than editing the db?

     

    0

  7. Posted

    1 hour ago, lithium said:

    honestly you can read around a decent forum and then pull off a better install then most shops on your own. 

    true. im just afraid to break something. i somewhat figured since they do it all the time and many years experience it would be a safer way to do things. and if they did notice an obvious mistake then they would fix it.

    they took 5 hours to do 2 front component speakers, a 4 channel amp, only 2 of these channels went to front speakers. and a new head unit.

    the amount of time it took makes me think they should have done a thorough job, maybe, maybe not

    0

  8. Posted

    3 hours ago, lithium said:

    we have a trouble shooting guide on the forum somewhere. but what you can do is determine if the hissing noise is coming from the hu or amp by bypassing the hu signal and connecting some headphone to rca cables straight to the amp input  in place of the rcas from the hu. connect the headphone jack to your phone and play some music. if there is still hissing then its the amp. 

    Its pretty ridiculous that they didn't listen to the install or felt that the noise was acceptable on their end. shitty shop  

    ok thanks. ill call them up soon and make sure they are aware of whats happening. even if its something simple as an amp gain i guess ill tell them to look at it before i touch it, so they cant say  its my fault.

    if they dont fix it for free. i will not go back there ever again. nor will i suggest it to any1. its really horrible how this place was. they seemed like nice people. but the business aspect was horrible. they told me it would be $235 to install everything a few weeks ago when i was calling around asking for prices. then when i called 1 week ago they said around $250. then when i went in person they said $250 to $300. then after the install he told me it was $375... because $20 for RCA, and $15 for each speaker spacer, made out of material that i told them not to use. and tax. and some stupid $10 miscellaneous charge....

    i will have to learn about this stuff and mess with it if they dont own up to their mistake. unless theres anything else i can do?

    1 hour ago, frogcase2002 said:

    This is why we tried to get you to do it your self

    this is why i did not want to do it myself lol. cause i wanted to have it done well. and not have to worry about any issues that i would need to fix. i thought they were professionals.

    0

  9. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    8 hours ago, StreetLegal said:

    As stated above, most likely a ground issue, check that all ground is secured properly and clean, also what brand is your hu?

    alpine 164 bt ,  i made sure to get at least a 4 v preamp. not sure if this is why you are asking though?

    1 hour ago, jcarter1885 said:

    Who is installing your equipment, if its a shop then you may need a new one.

    yea..... a local shop. they sort of pissed me off. initially told me would take 3 hours over the phone. i knew this was way too short of an estimate. but then when i got to the shop, they said 3 to 4 hours. then when i was waiting it took 5 hours. i sat in waiting room. the store sells only car audio equipment and does some window tinting on the side.

    i spoke with the installer briefly about certain things. such as dont use wooden spacers unless u treat them to be waterproof. he said yea we will use plastic ABS then. he ends up saying he cut out birch wood. well i thought it was fine. but apparently any wood needs to be treated. and i have this hissing noise.

    i even tipped the dude 20 bucks. not alot. but still. i figured since he took 5 whole hours to do it, he deserved something. ill call the manager on tuesday, when the installer should be in again and tell them about the hissing. they better at least take a look for free.

     

    how much of a trouble is it to check the ground? how long might this take to do? 20 min? 1 hour? its just the ground for the amplifier right?

    and is it possible its just that the gains are set too high on the amp?

    the dude secured the amp in my trunk, attached behind my backs seat. its a bit in a corner. and i think the gain controls are in a very tight spot. i would need to take the amp off the back seat to see the gain controls. i wonder how he even attached the amp to the back seat? and how would i re attach it, if it is the gains?

     

    ive heard people mention, if the hissing stays the same volume at all volumes. or if the hissing increases as the volume increases. my hissing does increase alot as the volume increases. but like i said u cannot hear the hissing when music is playing. although when the music stops, the hissing is there and it sounds pretty bad.

    0

  11. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    So i believe my headunit can go up to number 35 for volume. When playing music, around 12 is pretty decent loudness, but up to around 16 is pretty loud. and i dont think i would ever turn it above 20.

    when there is no music playing, my speakers hiss quite loud. the same volume of hiss can be heard when the headunit volume is set from 1 to around 10. any volume above 10 on the headunit, then the speakers his increases with each volume increase.

    i dont really notice the hiss when theres music playing.

    just wondering, is this normal? is it a bad sign? how might i go about fixing it?

    0

  12. Posted

    4 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

    Yea Its not hard . I would look up videos on how to remove your door panels first If you havnt done It befor though. Just to see where any screws or clips are located

    ok thanks. any chance i might need some special tools to take off door panel?

    i heard maybe something to slide between the panel to help pry it off? or something else?

     

    or should just be simple hidden screws?

    0

  13. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    Any and everything that is adjustable along with pictures of the mounting.

    Baffle and deadening are a must for midbass.  The alpines bolted into the stock mounting versus the stock speakers with a fixed install will be a downgrade....

    they were bolted in after a birch wood speaker spacer was placed. and a 1 ft by 1 ft sheet of dynamat deadener. was just something quick to add behind speaker.

    0

  14. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    Except lighter so they need more mass.  Definitely show be sealed.  Theybdelaminate with Any moisture which defeats the purpose of having them in the first place

     

    so they are pretty much the same as mdf. and as far as being light. when u say they need more mass? is that just to prevent it from moving? and i guess the only way i can think of to add weight, is some heat resistant clay?

     

    1 hour ago, lithium said:

    doesn't take much effort to waterproof them, even its something like flex seal or some truck bed liner 

     

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-11-oz-LeakSeal-Clear-Spray-265495/203165633

    ok thanks. yea says to wait 24 hours to cure. if i were to do this. id just open door panels. unscrew speakers. and spray the birch wood with this and then wait 24 hours, and then rescrew the speakers and spacers in?

    should take less than 2 min to unscrew speakers and such. but maybe 5 min to take off door panels? should be super easy?

    0

  15. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    Install, install, install.

     

    Something we can't help without knowing more about it.

     

    what should i post about the install?

    i actually just replayed a few songs. i realized the midbass really only makes good punches during very low bass parts of the songs. otherwise the midbass doesnt really make much sound. i guess it sounds pretty good. i think the highs just overpower the midbass too much when i raise the volume too.

     

    the highs are quite harsh at mid to high volumes. but at low volumes it sounds great.

     

    is it best to lower the high frequency in the headunit EQ, or should i low the high frequency at the crossover? its a passive crossover i believe. and ive heard people say to set the crossover for the tweeter at -2 db? is this easy to do? just take off door panel and use a screwdriver to adjust the crossover?

    0

  16. Posted

    1 hour ago, frogcase2002 said:

    I really dont think you will have a problem.   Maybe in a few months take your door panel off and check out the wood and see what it looks like. . Iv used wood untreated for long periods of time befor with no issue. just depends how much water gets into your door

    ok thanks. ill see in a bit of time. yea thats like the only way to tell.

    but also just wondering if any1 has had experience with birchwood

    0

  17. Posted

    1 hour ago, jcarter1885 said:

    Mdf has harmful chemicals in it. Wood period expands when wet but birch will expand less than mdf from what i was told. If your doos leak then you will have a problem but if they dont then it shouldnt be an issue. Ive never had water on the inner door skin where the speaker will mount that i know of, now between the inner door skin and out door I've seen water.

    ok thanks. i cant find anything anywhere that talks about birch wood as a speaker spacer

    all birch wood talk is about building boats and stuff... lol obviously with a boat, water is a greater concern

    but with my speaker spacer, im wondering if i should be worried? i specifically said dont do MDF, unless you waterproof coat the wood

    they said okay we will use plastic spacer. but then when i get my car they said they used birch wood.... im pretty sure birch is better than MDF as far as water issues. but im still worried

    i wonder if it really is better than MDF as far as moisture issues, and why is it better?

    im in florida, with high humidity all day and year round.... and it rains often. so im concerned

    0

  18. Posted

    Do birch wood speaker spacers need to be waterproofed?

    i went to local installer and they said they would use MDF and not waterproof them, just paint them with regular paint.

    but i said i would need them waterproofed so they dont soak up water

     

    so they went ahead and used birch wood speaker spacer instead.

    these fine, if not waterproofed or treated?

     

    and i heard these woods have harmful chemicals in them? or is that only when cutting them? and should be fine if installed in car, but not being cut?

    0

  19. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    what could have gone wrong?

    i dont have a subwoofer yet. i made a thread about that. and will be getting a subwoofer later

     

    but for now i just got the SPR 60C, alpine type R components

    the midbass is like gone.

    my cheapo stock speakers had slightly more midbass than these...

    they are powered by a pioneer amp, GM-D8604

     

    what could be wrong? or are components supposed to have barely any bass whatsoever.... its pretty bad.

     

    the highs are very clear. a bit too harsh highs

    but when i set the headunit to EQ the bass up, the bass sounds bad, slight increase in bass, but pretty bad quality bass?

     

    The gain on the amp is set a bit over halfway of its max

     

    edit: the speakers are rated at 110 RMS each. so is it possible that because the amps gain is set around halfway, thats causing the midbass to barely be there?

    im still a bit confused about how RMS, and the amplifiers gain work? i assume, that turning the amps gain to like 90% but lowering the volume on the head unit should have better bass, than if i had the amps gain set to 55% and have the head unit volume higher?

     

    is the amps gain, just a measure of RMS? which means how loud the speakers get per unit of volume in the head unit? or is there more to it?

    0

  20. Posted

    4 hours ago, mathewdylang said:

    Wow now I feel like an idiot. I had been looking at amps so much that I read it as rms. The 2 other hifonics I looked at were even rated at rms. Well, good thing I'm not looking for a competition set up with this. 450w to my 15 will most likely still be louder than I need for a street build. It'll save my electrical too. I ended up with the knu kca 1/0. Maybe I'll sell my 6 month old Lead Acid Battery and throw agm in and not worry to much now since my alt is 140a stock.

     

    What got me to beleive it was rms rated was the 120a worth of fuses on it. At 14.4 with 80% efficiency was 1500ish watts at 120a. Live and learn I guess.

    yeap i did the same thing. i made the mistake of not reading it as RMS

     

    although some websites do list their zeus hifonics in RMS, even though its not actually rated in RMS

     

    sonic electronix did this... misleading

    1

  22. Posted

    8 hours ago, denim said:

    My biased vote would be for an SSA Dcon 12 S4 sealed.

    The size of the cone has nothing to do with how clean the music it produces.  It is all about the install/enclosure.

     

    ok thanks. it looks like its a 400 Watt RMS subwoofer? would that still sound okay if my amp can only do up to 300 RMS?

    7 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

    Forsure dont want to get a pre fab ported enclosure. . I think with what you want you should go with sealed

    what do you mean a pre fab ?

    and i thought ported enclosures  sound better overall?

    0

  23. Posted

    Where do i even start, when considering a subwoofer?

    i dont want very loud booming base. just enough to round out the sound. to produce lower frequencies and make it sound better.

    I have the ability to bridge 2 channels on my amp (Pioneer GM-D8604) for 300 RMS at 4 ohms or 250 RMS at 2 ohms. also, isnt this weird? i thought at a lower ohm, it would be able to produce more power?

    i guess you use whatever ohm the subwoofer is rated at? any difference between subwoofers rated at 2 ohm vs 4 ohm?

    What about size of woofer? 8 inch, 10, or 12, etc? i believe larger woofer produces more bass, can be louder. but also requires more RMS to power larger woofers. Would an 8 inch subwoofer produce a cleaner bass, or different type of bass than a 12 inch? other than how loud it can get?

     

    What about those tube, bazooka, self amplified subwoofers? ive heard those are horrible? but dont need to be hooked up to an amp? are they okay? or just trash?

    I would be getting a premade enclosure. not too worried about making my own customized and such. just looking for something cheap, but good quality.

     

    thanks. any info is appreciated!

    0

  25. Posted

    10 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    So losing a channel is ok???  I am an amp is an amp guy but if it doesn't hold up I don't want it.  Hell I am still running an amp I bought in the 80's....

    definitely not okay to loose a channel. just saying alot of reviews said this on amazon only. but just wondering about any1s opinion if they see something in product details that i dont? or any1 have any experience with this type of amp?

    weird its so cheap?

    0
×