Florida_Audio
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Posts posted by Florida_Audio
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Pioneer GM-D8604
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html
its $140. class d
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 100 watts x 4 channels
its around $100 cheaper than the next comparable amplifier that has RMS listed and is a decent name brand?
Im aware that its class D so, thats part of why its cheaper. But other than that, im worried its bad for some reason because of how cheap it is?
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2 hours ago, Notorious97200 said:I've never worried about the size of the speaker wires.
You shouldn't.
You can use the factory wire. No problem with that.
ok thanks. yeah for now ill just get the adapter that goes from amp to the headunit.
its this :
Install Bay MC918-20
20 ft. (6.1 meters) of Nine Conductor 18 AWG Twisted Multi-Use Cable
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20326_Install-Bay-MC918-20.html
this is what i will need right?
and maybe much later on when i do start to upgrade various things, i might consider the speaker wire to be rewired.
thanks !
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20 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:not worried about the price of material. worried about if its going to sound much worse or noticeable in anyway. also that i hear its extremely difficult to run new wires through newer cars with molex and other wires in the way.
also im not even sure if thats a correct assumption for the length of the speaker wires? if the length of the car is 15 feet, id assume the speaker wire is around 15 feet, maybe 5 more, so 20 feet? but should be around that number, i would assume.
wow...... thanks a lot!
i sort of heard that even though ur stuff is rating to put out certain amount of power that it wont be constant output of that. but i thought thats why you look at RMS not peak watt. because i thought RMS is the average or number of watts thats being output much more often than the peak? so then what is RMS? the numbers i listed above were all about RMS for the watts, 110 RMS speakers, and then when i listed numbers for the amplifier.
since you mentioned "many more items" on how they are installed, curious what else there is? besides deadening and the location of speakers? just to get an idea and such.
Thanks again! great in depth response
wow thanks. another excellent explanation!
just to make sure i understand the general idea of the first part of what you said, in relation to RMS. you mean the majority of the sounds being played will not change due to the amount of RMS being sent to speakers. But, if you have the proper RMS being sent to the speakers then you get a much greater range of details coming through?
maybe this might work as an example? at least how i understand it? you have speakers rated at 110 RMS. but you power them with 60 RMS. so you have details and sounds from different frequencies 1 through 10. and with 60 RMS u can only hear numbers 4 through 8 very well. but 1,2, 9 and 10 are heard, but not very clear or detailed? but, when you power those speakers with 110 RMS then you can distinguish and hear in detail, every number, 1 through 10?
idk if frequencies or details is the proper word for this?
14 hours ago, Notorious97200 said:Florida_Audio : stop thinking about numbers ! I know, I know, I do it too !!!
Take your time to read the more you can on this forum.
read that too: The12Volt
thanks. yea, ive seen a chart from this site before:
http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp
it says at the bottom :
Recommended Speaker Wire Size by Load and Distance
Wire Size 2 ohm load 4 ohm load 6 ohm load 8 ohm load 22 AWG 3 feet max 6 feet max 9 feet max 12 feet max 20 AWG 5 feet max 10 feet max 15 feet max 20 feet max 18 AWG 8 feet max 16 feet max 24 feet max 32 feet max 16 AWG 12 feet max 24 feet max 36 feet max 48 feet max So...... im assuming my car has 22 or 20 AWG wire factory already in it for speakers. the length is probably around 15 feet. and my speakers are 4 ohm. so this is saying i can only run factory wire around 6 to 10 feet? i dont understand how they have this table, without the RMS? they are only comparing distance and ohms. but i thought the RMS should also be factored in?
this site has some amazing info, but im having trouble understanding what they mean by dips in the ohms and how some speaker wire is rated a a maximum ohm, but sometimes the power sent through the wire can go above or below the rated ohms of the speaker wire, and how this affects the sound. they are saying that there are some very noticeable differences depending on certain things. but im not sure what these things are?
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:15' of wire is cheap.
not worried about the price of material. worried about if its going to sound much worse or noticeable in anyway. also that i hear its extremely difficult to run new wires through newer cars with molex and other wires in the way.
also im not even sure if thats a correct assumption for the length of the speaker wires? if the length of the car is 15 feet, id assume the speaker wire is around 15 feet, maybe 5 more, so 20 feet? but should be around that number, i would assume.
1 hour ago, altoncustomtech said:15 feet isn't long, hell in the audio world 30 feet isn't long. At least not for that application. Power (watts) is a product of both CURRENT and voltage.
First, look at it like this, say for the sake of easy math we're talking about 100 watts even. It would take 10 volts AND 10 amps of current to have 100 watts in our imaginary circuit. Now I wouldn't want to try to flow 10 amps of current through a 20 gauge wire, it would get ugly. However the power supply in an amplifier turns your cars 12v system into an AC signal, runs it through a step up transformer, and then turns it back into DC for the amplifier section. Now, let's say that in our imaginary circuit that the voltage is 50volts, not 10, that would mean the current would only be 2 amps to supply 100 watts of power. The 20 gauge wire may still be a little light but for the distance of run inside a vehicle it's manageable.
Now we get into the other part of the way it works in audio. Just because an amplifier is rated as being capable of 100 watts of output does not mean that 100 watts is coming out of its outputs all the time. In fact, the only time the output gets anywhere near the full 100 watts is when the input signal is causing the amp to try to produce maximum output. In other words only when you have the volume cranked. Even then it's not holding there at maximum. Music is dynamic, it's lots of low to medium level material with some high level and occasionally maximum level material. So even at full volume 90% of a full song is low to medium level material, 7% is high level material and 3% is maximum level (depending on the music itself, how it was recorded and the quality of the recording. This is only an example).
That means that even when you are listening to your music as loud as it can safely go that your amp is only outputting in its upper power ability 10 to 20% of the time. That's why we try to tell you that reading into and worrying so much about the numbers is such a waste of time.
Trust me, I used to worry about every little number and everything years ago too. It wasn't until I spent a lot of time on here reading up on things, asking questions and talking to people that I realized that all my time and energy was focused on the wrong aspects. There are far more important, far more consequential things to worry about that make a much bigger difference than the power you're running to the speakers. That's not to say that what you're worrying about doesn't carry with it some merit but it should be lower on the scale than things like HOW the speakers are installed. Things like location, aiming, deadening, and many more items are the sum of HOW they're installed. The closer that stuff is to as good as it can get the better the overall result no matter how much power you run or things of that nature.
wow...... thanks a lot!
i sort of heard that even though ur stuff is rating to put out certain amount of power that it wont be constant output of that. but i thought thats why you look at RMS not peak watt. because i thought RMS is the average or number of watts thats being output much more often than the peak? so then what is RMS? the numbers i listed above were all about RMS for the watts, 110 RMS speakers, and then when i listed numbers for the amplifier.
since you mentioned "many more items" on how they are installed, curious what else there is? besides deadening and the location of speakers? just to get an idea and such.
Thanks again! great in depth response
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:Type much?
Pretty simple, smaller wire more voltage drop. The 100w or 125w or 132w or whatever is irrelevant. If you have a long run of wire your voltage will not be maintained through it.
trying to be thorough. what is considered long? my car is pretty close to 15 feet in length, measured outside car, front to back.
the amp will be in the trunk. and well front speakers are by the front. so id assume the wire length to be around 15 to 20 feet?
and im not sure of the factory speaker wire gauge, assume the worst, lets say 20 or 22 gauge?
trying to send 110 RMS to the speakers. but like i said above, if some of the power is lost, then would trying to send like 150 RMS to the speaker, allow for more to be maintained? like lets say you try to send 150 RMS to speaker, but some is lost and you end up with 100 RMS. should be fine then? overpower a bit to overcompensate for the loss ?
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Im getting Alpine Type‑R SPR‑60C 2‑way Speakers. rated at 4 ohms
Going to be using an amplifier that can output at least 100 RMS each channel. up to around 125 RMS per channel.
My car is a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe.
I tried asking dealership if they knew the gauge of the factory speaker wire. or how to figure it out, in some manual or booklet. they said theres really no way to know, unless u measure or look at the wire itself.
I tried looked at youtube videos or other sources online and couldnt find anything specifying the gauge of the factory speaker wire.
Im assuming its between 18-22 gauge wire?
I heard that something such as 20 gauge wire can only handle around 50 RMS.
So, it this is the case, then is there any point in even getting an amplifier that can produce more than 50 RMS to each speaker? Should i still get an amp rated at 100 RMS per channel?
I dont quite understand this.
I know its better to replace the factory speaker wire. but not sure exactly why its important, or really by how much? I know the wire size can help prevent heat and some loss of sound quality. is this loss alot?
And ive heard aftermarket speaker wire has better shielding from interference with other wires in the car.
and ive heard that replacing the stock speaker wire in newer cars, such as mine, is extremely difficult due to how they are wiring them in the car?
how long should it take to rewire speaker wires to only the two front doors of my car? approximate for someone who is not an expert, but not a total noob? like under 1 hour, or several hours?
if i do replace the speaker wire i would like to run at least 16 gauge. maybe 14 gauge. but id assume either is fine.
Someone here has said i wont notice the difference in sound from amplifying my speakers at 65 RMS vs 110 RMS. just wondering how, or why this would be? i thought the degree to which you amplify your speakers can allow the highs to be more prominent or the mid bass, etc. like can vary how the speakers sound by a noticeable amount? also wondering if using 20 gauge speaker wire can bottleneck my system and only allow a much smaller amount of power to the speakers?
For the most part i am just trying to learn as much as i can about how these things work and such and if my assumptions are correct?
Thank you for reading!
edit: just read this : "Its not really a question of how much current the wires can handle but how much power you would be losing on thin wires.
Thinner the wire higher the resistance and so higher the power loss on the wires. "Is this true? and if so, would it make sense to just add more RMS to the wire, to overpower the power, to account for the loss? wonder if the loss is like a straight number, like anything over x amount is 100% lost. or is it more like anything over x amount is lost by an increasing percentage? So maybe sending like 150 RMS through the wire, would help get towards the 110 RMS id want to have hit the speakers? im trying to look into how amps, voltage, watts, and ohms are related in this. the articles ive found make sense, but then there are alot of gaps where i dont understand the info very well. and even if i do understand the info, its also a matter of whether or not the info is actually accurate.
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1 hour ago, altoncustomtech said:The best recommendation I can think of making that will point you in the right direction for a good quality amplifier is to tell you to look at the selection of amplifiers that are available in the SSA store here with the forum. There's no horsecrap max rated amps on this store.
Additionally to reiterate what these guys are trying to tell you, don't get so caught up in the numbers. You'll go around and around in circles scratching your head and asking questions about every little detail when in the grand scheme of things it's really not that relevant. So far you've not even given any kind of budget for the amp. That can help us give some recommendations and/or point you in a good direction.
budget for the amp is around $150. possibly $200 if its going to help alot. but id prefer to stay around $150 if possible.
thanks.
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2 hours ago, lithium said:no real point to doing that sort of testing unless your steve meade and you've cooked up another shitty plan to fleece idiots out of money.
best to ask around on forums like this one for suggestions based on budget, size, and power requirement.
new folks to car audio always seem to believe that matching amp power rating to speaker power rating is some sort of requirement. power rating for a speaker is just the thermal rating for a given period of time before the coil burns up. Amp power rating is equally irrelevant. I think you need to spend some time learning how speakers and amps work. This website is an old favorite of mine, http://www.bcae1.com/
thanks. yea ive seen a few things from that site. some things can be quite confusing lol. but the parts that i do understand are helpful. gotta take my time to learn these things sadly. i wish i could learn these things much faster :]
Ok so you are also sayins that matching the RMS is not going to improve sound quality?
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:The noise floor in your car is ridonkulous compared to a dedicated listening room. You won't hear a difference between A/B or D or T, there is no real standard for testing power or reporting it at a certain voltage and companies are shady, once you've got enough power so you aren't railing the rails you'll have plenty of dynamics. So sure, when in doubt go for more power but don't buy a piece of crap.
I have zero experience with new Pio amps. Had 4 that fail (circa 1994ish) quickly, but that was a long time ago and is irrelevant other than it means I still don't buy them personally.
ok thanks. i might try and check out some other popular name brands for prices, but so far this pioneer seems the cheapest 4 channel amp that has RMS listed and 100 RMS per channel seems good enough for my speakers that can run 110 RMS. close enough.
I guess CEA compliant only pertains to the RMS rated output, would be cool if some people did some real tests between the difference class amps. but since im not too knowledgeable about why one might sound better, or the degree to which it would cause a change in sound, i cannot comment if it really would be noticeable. im aware that humans can only hear within a certain frequency range and such, so many things that a computer can pickup, would not matter for humans. or even if some things can be picked up by human ears, its a matter of to what degree its noticeable and such. but since im doing this build, i would like to do things right once, instead of having to redo stuff. but then again, nothing is ever perfect, theres always room to learn and improve :]
but sorry for bother, i do appreciate your responses! you do seem very confident in your responses and seem to have had quite alot of experience with these many things.
But maybe not something too lengthy, but curious why you said i wont notice a difference between 65 RMS to 110 RMS being sent to my speakers?
also my bad, but what do u mean by "railing the rails". i assume something about using just barely enough power to get by? not sure though.
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2 hours ago, ///M5 said:NO, DO NOT BUY AN AMP THAT DOESN'T HAVE THE RMS LISTED. NEVER EVER!!
I understand you want to buy what you thought you found and were looking for re-assurance on a car audio forum, but you won't get it and if you keep asking the same question trying to force an answer that will never come people will stop reading your threads and taking you seriously. We can't help you, only you can help you and it is starting to seem like you don't want help. Please prove me wrong.
I was then looking at a pioneer class D amplifier that has RMS listed, and well its pioneer, as far as i know, its a great brand
but its a class D amplifier not AB. Class d should be more efficient(use less power) but i have heard people say it sounds a bit worse than an AB amplifier?
this amp is pioneer, but its Class D
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html
Pioneer GM-D8604 600W Class FD 4-Channel GM Digital Series Amplifier
Can i ask why you said a speaker rated at 110 RMS would sound no different if listening to it, when its powered at 65 RMS versus 110 RMS?
I thought giving it more power for its rated RMS, should help with making the mids sound more clear and full?
Thank you. I apologize for asking so many questions, its just that im trying to learn each detail and such, and i have been known to be stubborn, but i am learning and listening!
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1 hour ago, dem beats said:I have to hire some climbers to go up and limb a huge oak I need to drop.
It's an easy 3' diameter trunk.
take subwoofer out of car
place subwoofer against tree
blast subwoofer, rattle tree, till limb falls
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3 hours ago, ///M5 said:Ha. I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp. Shady bullshit.
Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well. Just buy good amp.
Is looking at the fuses a good way to calculate the actual RMS on the amplifier? If the real RMS is not listed?
Or does the fuse only show the maximum possible RMS of the amplifier? But the actual RMS is most likely much less than what the fuses are capable of?
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:Ha. I've seen manufacturers claim 150w peak on a 10w rms amp. Shady bullshit.
Either way don't buy that Crap and STOP thinking you need 100w for your speakers as that is irrelevant as well. Just buy good amp.
Why is the RMS being sent to the speaker irrelevant?
if the speaker is rated at 110 RMS. i would think supplying 110 RMS would help make it sound much better than if i only supplied it with 65 RMS?
by good amp, what brands would you suggest? im aware of big company names, such as pioneer and alpine. But ive seen MANY other brands and not sure if they are also good to get, because they are cheaper priced. But ive heard cheaper amps rated at same RMS can sound a bit worse than a better quality amp with the same RMS rating and same class as in A/B.
WTF? now this VERY similar zeus amp is says RMS..... and its only 10 bucks more. this true RMS?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94886_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1016.4.html
Hifonics Zeus ZRX1016.4
How and why?
So because this lists it as RMS..... wtf? might be a typo and should not have RMS?
Compared to this one that does not say RMS
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html
Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4
Also, as far as safety for car battery being able to run an amplifier, do you look at the peak watts or RMS. I thought the RMS is what matters as for car battery? But maybe its the peak watts?
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On 3/22/2016 at 1:23 PM, ///M5 said:I also wouldn't buy that amp. I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow. Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power. RMS or nothing. Shady as hell.
23 hours ago, ///M5 said:It is a disgusting lie to list max. I wouldn't do business with them. No way no how. Tons of good brands.
Thanks for pointing this out. Even after you said this..... i still thought the amplifier was in RMS under the description of it....
I was wrong. i confused the 4 ohm and 2 ohm, and this made me think the 4 ohm was in RMS, because it was a smaller number of watts. but its just the difference between 2 ohm and 4 ohm.....
so basically the amp is 4 ohm at 125 watts, NOT RMS. So its really probably around 62.5 RMS?
my speakers are rated at 110 RMS. So either way, this amplifer CANNOT power my speakers to their optimal potential. it can power the speakers, but just not that great.
Would powering my speakers at 62.5 RMS be a big difference from powering them at 110 RMS? obviously its hard to answer, but taking a guess, i would assume it would be quite noticeable?
Whats an amp you would suggest thats cheap, but decent quality, and can power my speakers well?
I messed up big time, thinking that amp was in RMS.... Thanks.... Im pissed at myself, i thought i read it correctly before, even after you pointed it out! My bad....
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It looks like theres more pieces to the kit i originally posted about? Do i really need all of those pieces? I honestly have no clue what half of these pieces do? Just wondering if i get the other kit, thats same price and gauge 4, will I need to purchase anything else for the amp and speaker installation? Maybe a bit more speaker wire, but I think thats it?
This comes with the original kit:
- 20 ft. (6.1 meters) Frosted Blue 8 gauge power wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
- 3 ft. (.91 meters) Frosted Gray 8 gauge ground wire with seamless crimp ring terminal
- 20 ft. (6.1 meters) Clear 18 gauge remote lead wire
- 65 ft. (19.8 meters) Frosted Gray/Blue 16 gauge speaker wire -- includes a 40 ft. pack and a separate 25 ft. pack
- One 16 ft. (5 meters) 4-channel twisted construction RCA interconnect Cable (NVX XIV45)
- One NVX XMANL04 ANL/Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 60 amp Mini-ANL fuse
- One 5/16" black rubber firewall grommet
- Two 8 gauge spade terminals
- Two black 16 gauge nickel-plated spade lugs
- Three blue 16 gauge nickel-plated spade lugs
- One black 18 gauge spade terminal
- Two 18 gauge red butt connector
- Ten 4" black zip ties
This comes with the kit you suggested:
- 18 Feet 4 Gauge Blue Kolossus Fleks Power Wire
- 3 Feet 4 Gauge Black Kolossus Fleks Ground Wire
- One Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 120A Fuse
- TWO 5 Meter Bassik Kable Black OFC RCA Cable with Built in Turn On lead
- 20 Feet BLUE Kord Kable OFC 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
- 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals
- Split Loom and wire ties
What about this kit. its very similar to the one you posted buy costs a few bucks more. whats different? is it better? Im still not sure what im looking at as far as differences between these parts. They all seem the same to me :[
This comes with:
- 18 Feet 4 Gauge Red Kolossus Fleks Power Wire
- 3 Feet 4 Gauge Smoke Kolossus Fleks Ground Wire
- One Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder with 120A Fuse
- One 6 Meter 2 Channel Karma RCA Cable
- 20 Feet Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
- 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminals
- 6' Split Loom, 20' Remote Wire, and wire ties
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1 hour ago, ///M5 said:Fit doesn't literally mean can be jammed into the space. For instance a driver with a terrible off axis response would suck to use at the bottom of your door. ie, it wouldn't fit. Obviously sizing for the space is important too, but that is far from the only factor.
ok thanks yea. i read that tweeters are good to be placed level with your face. higher and some mid frequency sounds get lost when not placed in a good angle towards your ears.
But also for the speaker baffle. do you use the plastic mount that comes with the speakers, and then add the MDF mount on top of it?
i see so many videos of people cutting out their MDF mounts, but have never seen any video about installing the MDF mount in detail. id like to see how you install the MDF to the door and such?
thanks alot !
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3 hours ago, lithium said:Not sure why you're still confused as to what a speaker baffle is. It can be made out of wood or plastic. preferably something that weather proof. A robust (thick, solid, study, pucking whatever adjective you like) baffle results in more energy creating sound rather then shaking the door panel, simple physics.
the clay like stuff around the edge is duct seal which adds mass to the door panel.
sealing the speaker to the baffle is important, you can use foam tape, speaker caulk, or left over closed cell foam.
wow that jl audio link is atrocious. wtf... They hit a couple key points at least.
- deaden the inner and outer door skin
- create a study baffle for mount the speaker
- seal all holes on the inner door skin
- decouple the inner door skin from the door trim panel
- additional stuff that you should do include barrier products, read everything on sounddeadenershowdown.com
BTW, Those foam baffles from crutchfield are really detrimental to sound as speakers are designed to vent into the door. I actually found a use for them in a unique situation for my build with modifications to the foam.
ok thanks! so ill look into a premade MDF mount, and i can just buy some spray to coat it so it is water proof.
What waterproof spray or material would you suggest thats cheap, but works well?
Should I waterproof it AFTER i drill the holes into it for the speaker to fit. So the holes drilled are also waterproofed on the inside of them? Does this matter?
Thanks for pointing that stuff out about JBLs points. I do appreciate the effort you have given to help me !
The clay seems easy enough, cant really mess up sealing with clay right? But i am in florida and it gets VERY hot very often. wondering if theres some special clay that is good to put as a seal, but wont melt from heat? Or should i just get something else to seal it, but is going add a good amount of mass? Maybe speaker caulk would be the next best thing that is heavy? or some heat resistant clay? does it matter what brand clay if i can find one thats heat resistant? Thank you so much for explaining the reason why clay is used over other things. I like to hear what to do, but explaining why i should do it is all that much more helpful!
I was confused about baffles, because most of what i saw that were named "baffles" were the crutchfield kind, and ive read things saying baffles help, but then i also heard the closed back to those baffles hurts the sound cause no air flow. My understanding is that speakers need air behind them to help them push the air in front of them. but you want to normally mount speakers flush with the door leading into your vehicle, correct? and to make the speaker be flush with the door to the inside of your vehicle, that is where you choose the length of the baffle? so if the baffle is longer then it can extent to reach and be flush with the door panel and send sound directly into your car, and so sound does not leak out and back inside the door panel? and the mass on the door and sound or vibration inert material such as MDF wood, but u want to waterproof the wood or else humidity will make the MDF swell up and sort of destroy the mount?
Thanks!!!!!!! I cant wait to get this stuff done, but so nice to make sure its all going to go well with the great info you guys provide me!
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2 hours ago, lithium said:the knu kit is better, 4 gauge copper > 8 gauge copper. no question
ok i thought so, but idk i found it a bit odd that the same brand i bought, for the same kit but with gauge 4 wire costs $120! but then this gauge 4 wire kit costs $60. im questioning if something is missing from the kit thats different between the two? i know these things often cost different, but for something such as wires, i didnt think the price difference would be this large.
is it possible the "other" items that come with the kit are that much different? is KNU a decent quality brand? just hope if i buy the cheaper gauge 4 wire, i can know if i need to purchase something else in addition to it for the amp kit to be hooked up? Thanks!
both are oxygen free which seems nice. and i like i always hear, its better to get better wire, than just the minimum needed!
thanks.
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1 hour ago, lithium said:the nvx kit is around the same price as the big brands like kicker or rockford probably.
my bad, i meant to say its around the same price yes. but i was wonder if its a better kit? and if it is better and the same price, then i should get the better one ?
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23 hours ago, lithium said:wow are wiring kits that expensive now...
just run 4 gauge now and save yourself some hassle if you decide to add more power.
this is probably a decent option. though 12 gauge speaker wire is way pucking over kill. 16 gauge is plenty
this kit you posted is cheaper than the kit i posted, but also seems much better?
is it missing anything that the kit i posted has?
this one you posted seems better in every way? and same price?
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On 3/21/2016 at 4:41 PM, ///M5 said:Again, it depends on what fits in YOUR car. There is no equipment holy grail, EVERYTHING is specific to your car. Please focus on taking it apart and then determining what will work.
ok i think i understand a bit more now. i was quite lost when you said stuff like you were not sure what to get to "fit" my car, but it has to do with the depth of the door panel from inside my car, to the door panel inside the panel?
and the baffle has to fit nicely against the door panel that leads into my car, so the sound goes into my car, and does not leak into my car door? right?
but im lost when using the term baffle, and bezel or ring. i think bezel and rings are the same, but the baffles ive seen have a back to them, such as the crutchfield foam speaker baffles? is this what a baffle means, to also have a closed back to it? is this what u did for your setup, is close the space behind the speaker with the baffle u installed, but its made out of MDF instead of foam?
and would you agree with steps 5 and 6 in this link?
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374070-Improving-Your-Midbass-Response-
to add foam behind and in front of the speaker? would this be okay instead of MDF, or would i do this in addition to MDF.
and when you said above that thicker is better, do you mean thickness, as in the depth of the ring, like how it fits between the panels? or thickness as in the width of the ring, as in how large of ring it is around the hole of the ring? (this is hard to describe, sorry, maybe you can help me reword this?)
Thanks again!
i think im almost understanding this!
Great help!
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3 hours ago, ///M5 said:It is a disgusting lie to list max. I wouldn't do business with them. No way no how. Tons of good brands.
ok, cause alot of products like speakers list max and RMS. but i see you only mentioned amps? maybe because the amp is what powers everything else, and the true number of watts is most important from the amp?
So, would you guys say that amp kit is good enough?
Speakers are 110 RMS each, speaker wire is 16 gauge
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2 hours ago, ///M5 said:I also wouldn't buy that amp. I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow. Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power. RMS or nothing. Shady as hell.
it does also say the RMS per channels and such.
what brands would you suggest?
thanks for pointing that out
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3 hours ago, Notorious97200 said:You're thinking to much about the head unit.
Get one with 3 rca outputs, and focus on what you need : bluetooth, iphone/android reader, cd, video,...etc
If you have never installed anything in your car, pay what they want ! All shops have the same prices, so you know what to pay.
In Florida, you must find great shops, and lots of equipments. I've seen videos of a shop in Naples, Fl, with SSA and other good brands in the store. I can't remember the name. Take a look at the Modified Section, here.
ok thanks. theres only 2 local shops that have similar prices. both are around $200 to $240 to install 2 component speakers, a 4 channel amp, and the stereo.
but best buy is $289 for these.
one of those local shops tried to tell me all JBL brand items saying they are the best and all they carry in stock. I told them i wanted to buy my own brands and not be limited to those. They also said i should just upgrade to a good JBL subwoofer for best performance increase to stock system. and then later upgrade rest. And they wanted $400 for sub and installation. And i asked about sound deadener, and they said thats useless. These 3 things made my not want to go to this company. They only do audio equipment and have been in business over 20 years. but still, these sound like uneducated statements? Like subwoofer only covers a tiny range of sound, right? i want clarity and details. bass can come later
Im considering best buy, even though its well..... best buy.... ugh.... turn off.
but they offer a lifetime warranty for some things that may go wrong due to their install. and theres best buys all over, not just one shop, like the local shop.
What is your guys opinion on best buy to have it installed? it seems like it really depends on the person who will be doing the installation, not really based on best buy, but based on the person doing the work? Should i risk it?
What place is in Naples , Fl, that you have seen, the ones ive found seemed a bit sketchy to me? One place wanted $700 bucks to install, when the other 2 wanted around $200. Not gonna pay $700, sorry, way too much
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Why is this amp so cheap? Pioneer GM-D8604 should be fine?
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
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ok thanks. ive looked at other pioneer amps, and they all seem quite a bit cheaper than any other name brand amp thats close to the same specs for number of channels and RMS output
should be okay i hope. ive heard alot of reviews of people saying they lost a channel on this amp. some say they look a channel in like 6 months to 1 year of use. weird though, most amazon has these reviews for this item though.
i wonder if places like crutchfield or sonicelexctronix edits their reviews for the products they sell. like maybe the delete the bad reviews, because its hard to find bad reviews for any item they sell on their site.