Jump to content

Florida_Audio

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    365

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by Florida_Audio

  1. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84    (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable)

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html

     

    This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4  -   1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

     

    Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires.

     

    Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine?

    Also the speaker wire it comes with is 16 gauge. Would i need 12 or 14 gauge speaker wire instead?

    I plan on only using 2 front component speakers for now. Each speaker takes 110 RMS.

    And later i will bridge 2 channels from my amp to run a subwoofer. So should i try to stay around 500 RMS from all parts?

    0

  3. Posted

    4 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    You have to make the baffles.  Normally I use PTFE as it saves all the effort in sealing and making MDF water proof.  There are probably some MDF ones on the internet/ebay, but they are somewhat pointless in that if you can fit a larger baffle in your space you should.  The only way to do that is to make them, but it is as simple as cutting a round hole and and then jig sawing the shape on the outside.

    Deadening is simple.  There is only one choice.  Sound Deadener Showdown.  If you really want to do it right you should deaden and use an MLV barrier, but you are going to rapidly chow your budget.

    If I were budget limited the FIRST thing I would do in a car is fix the stock install.  It is always crap.  Shocking how much better things sound just by doing that.  

    wow honestly thank you so much for that info!

    i thought speaker baffles looked like this, like just a cup or something , but what you are showing looks like something else?

    i thought these were speaker baffles? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IBEtbKcg9eS/p_696B050330/Boom-Mat-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-Regular-3-depth.html

    but u are saying to get something like these? (bezel rings?) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_95248_Audiopipe-RING-6.5GR.html

    sorry for the links, but i dont think model number would help for those.

    whats the difference between bezel rings and baffles? yours look like bezel rings from what ive seen online?

    i read you should seal the MDF material to make water proof like you said. i am in florida and its pretty humid almost all the time, so i guess thats definitely needed?

    so, for the sound deadening, ive read you need to do it on both sides of door panel? inside door, and behind the inside. but you also need to clean the inside out with some alcohol first?

    and sound deadener showdown says to only cover 25% of door. is that for all brands of sound deadening, or just his brand?

     

    0

  4. Posted

    1 hour ago, garychurch84 said:

    Contact Jeff@  Clanton Customs he's a good friend of mine,tell him I told you to call.Maybe he can recommend a good audio installer.

    (239)820-0030

    He may or may not still be open,they're in the process of moving back here to Tn

    He has a few jobs to finish before he come up permanently. 

    wow thanks. ill give him a call when i can. appreciate it !

    0

  5. Posted

    1 hour ago, Godsmack said:

    Well I would look for something that soecifically does front and sub outputs. Not just any ol two outputs.

    The speakers shouldn't be covering your lowend at all. Lower midrange sure, but not what a sub does. Not at the frequency range of a high end set of components to see what I mean. Good job keeping the budget in mind.

    Wiring is one of those things where over kill is better than under kill. Look at what you will be pulling for aperage in the future. Not just what will do for now. No sense in paying for wire twice right? Get what you need first.

     

    J

    thanks. what type of speaker wire would i need then?  and what do i base the amperage on? the amount from my amp only?

    0

  6. Posted

    2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Umm, no.  Speakers without baffles are stupid.  You NEED to make a nice firm mounting structure for the speaker as the stock crap is junk.  Easiest way is a nice thick baffle.

    If you aren't going to baffle and deaden, don't bother doing anything.  I'd rather spend $30 on a set of speakers and install them right than $500 on a better set and bolt them in the stock mounts.

    ok thanks. so what baffles would you suggest for my speakers i listed above, if you could please suggest some. and any special way to use the baffle or just put the speakers into it?

    and what brand deadening would u suggest, or any should be good? and around how much should i be looking to spend on a good amount of sound deadening?

    0

  7. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    Baffle, deadening, etc are pre-requisites for fronts.  Install is everything....

    Stock locations and what/how fits you NEEd to figure out before shopping.

    i dont think ill get speaker baffles, because i heard they can hurt the sound a bit?

    and sound deadening seems expensive, i was thinking i can do it later?

    around how much would it cost to buy enough sound deadening for just the front doors? is that the only area i should put it?

     

    0

  8. Posted

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    Just unplug the rears.  They seriously screw up the sound and have no benefit.  COMPLETELY pointless.

    What/where/how/etc does the box be/go?  Same with the front speakers...

    ok thanks, i guess i will just not hook up the rear speakers to my new head unit.

    by box you mean the subwoofer? i would probably put it in the trunk, but i honestly have not done much research on the subwoofer yet, because i dont plan on getting on until a few months from now. and when i do look, ill want the cheapest stuff that produces decent quality. id prob look to spend around $100 for the sub and its box? if thats reasonable?

    the headunit i am getting from alpine, seems to have ALOT of great options to adjust EQ for speakers and subwoofer, that seems really nice to adjust everything.

    and for where the front speakers will go, i assumed i would just remove where the old speakers were and place the new speakers there, and where the old tweeters were. it looks like my car has some openings above the door handle by the front window, where there can be tweeters installed.

    where or how else would i install these items? im not sure i have other options? any insight is appreciated. once again, thank you!

    0

  9. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

    You picked things without goals.  That is not how to shop.

    Installation location is SUPER critical for anything to sound good.  If you are looking at rears it is also obvious this isn't thought through.  They will be a net negative in particular if your goals are truly what you stated above.

    The other aspect you need to layout now is what restrictions you have for mounting locations/space etc.  Obviously you won't need the whole trunk for what you described, but starting with an enclosure space you'd like to use would really help.

    2 other problems with the links.  Most people don't need them and it is annoying to click, saying the model number really helps and secondly you just sort of posted a hodge podge of randomness so we aren't following why you chose what you did and then trying to determine how it fits your install and goals is confusing to say the least.

    i guess i dont really need the rear speakers? i dont plan on getting aftermarket speakers in the rear. i was just wondering if the rear speakers would still work, and/or sound okay with the rest of the setup?

    im not sure how i should deal with the rear speakers? i heard i dont really need to upgrade them. but not sure if that means i should still try and have them hooked up to play some sound.

    what do you mean by an enclosure space i would like to use? do you mean, like where do i want to place the subwoofer and amplifier?

    for the links heres the model number and description of items i want to purchase, let me know if you would suggest something else or any comments on them?

    i have a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe by the way.

    Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4   -  1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier

    Alpine SPR-60C   6.5" 2-Way Type-R Series Component Car Audio Speaker System

    alpine cde 163bt    ( not sure if the alpine cde 164bt is any better or different? )

    i would like the bridge 2 of the channels on the amp to power a subwoofer later on.

    and the subwoofer i have no clue yet, i will get one in a few months, but for now i think the amp, front speakers, and stereo should be fine?

    the amp will just be a low budget one with decent quality, and does not need to be crazy thumping and such.

    0

  10. Posted

    On 3/19/2016 at 11:08 PM, ///M5 said:

    Yes you can bridge 2 chn and use a 4chn that way.


    As for the equipment....I'd rethink the links, but start with your goals, space and budget.  You aren't ready to shop yet.

    ur comment is concerning

    what do u mean by rethink the links and im not ready to shop yet?

    are these not compatible? will they not work well?

    i plan on running the front components with the 4 channel amp, and the subwoofer with the same amp. but can i then run the rear factory speakers off the head unit? will this work well?

    Please let me know, i plan on purchasing these very soon, thank you!

    0

  11. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    6 hours ago, Godsmack said:

    Easiest way to do it is to purchase a HU with front, rear and sub pre amps. You will only need the front and sub. Purchase a set of well made componants, a solid amp, and get a quality install performed. If you sre willing to do it yourself, there are ample tutorials online, and with 'plug and play' harnesses for your vehicle, installation is rather simplified. 

     

    One thing you are not factoring in (since you want amps and a sub) is wiring material, and a box. Keep in mind just like with the installation of the components, the box for the subwoofer can really make or break the quality.

     

    J

    ok thanks. hmmm so if i do only want front and subwoofer. does the subwoofer output have a specific type of output? or can i just get any head unit with 2 preamp outputs?

    ill probably be getting the subwoofer and box later on. budget reasons for now. but i hope the speakers should be fine for bit of bass, with the amp and EQ

    how much should the wiring materials cost? i think ive looked them up before, and its around $40 for amp wiring kit, and around $30 for speaker wires to amp?

    0

  12. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    21 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    You definitely don't need 3 outputs...in particular for the goal at hand.  Just ignore the rear speakers they are a waste of money.  Absolutely NO USE even in a suburban.  The bummer though is that there aren't really any good 2 output head units so you'll get three to use 2.  Having a dedicated sub and front output is nice.  If you find that in a 2 you are fine.

    wow thanks for clear explanation!

    makes sense, so i do need 2 outputs on my head unit, but you are saying that not many head units have a sub pre out and a front pre out?

    these are the two i would need, sub pre out and front pre out? i dont need the rear pre out?

    or would a head unit, with front and rear pre outs, be able to be used for front and sub? wondering if the rear pre out is compatible with a subwoofer?

     

    edit: i also am looking at this EQ    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6655_Clarion-EQS746.html

    looks like it can be used if i get a head unit with only 2 RCA outputs, front and rear?

    but would the head unit with 3 RCA outputs be easier than installing this EQ? but... would this EQ offer better quality sound and adjustments and be a good upgrade?

    and this product is a line driver and an EQ, but also seems to have all the outputs needed for front rear and subwoofer?

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18601_Hifonics-HFEQ.html

    ugh.... so lost now, whats the difference between these? and why would someone use these?

    i do plan on getting an aftermarket head unit, 2 front component speakers, and an amp. and possibly a cheap subwoofer. wondering if either of those 2 items i posted above are useful and why?

    thanks again!

    0

  13. Posted

    8 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

     

    What do you want to Atchive from this setup and how my space are you willing to take up for sub enclosure and stuff

    i want to have good quality sound. loud enough to hear it while driving on the highway with windows down and be happy. but not so loud that its pointless, and too loud. i like clarity. and the bass doesnt have to be booming too loud. i just want the subwoofer to produce bass to i can listen to an overall decent sound so it takes up the lower end of frequency. clean crisp quality bass, nothing overpowering.

    for space, i i have the whole trunk i can use if needed, i guess, but id dont want to spend too much on the bass, just something "good enough" should be fine to produce okay bass.

    thank you

    0

  15. Posted

    1 hour ago, SS Teacher said:

    Florida is a pretty big state...

    If you buy the wiring harnesses hooking up head units isn't that hard, nor is hooking up an amp.  I understand if you have a new car and no tools, but it's kinda fun to get into the hobby and figure this stuff out on your own.  Good luck!

    i cant figure out how to copy and past this quote to add it to the post i just made?

    but, im on west coast of florida. Ft myers, Naples, Cape Coral area.

    0

  16. Posted

    1 hour ago, frogcase2002 said:

     

    Forsure can take that long but It Is not that hard. . How much are they trying to charge for head unit amp and speakers? 

    all the local shops that ive called have similar pricing.

    the shop im speaking about here is priced as

    65 to 85 for components

    amp is 85

    head unit is 50 to 65

    so $200 to $235 for these total. thats around 55 to 60 bucks an hour if it is 4 hours. i guess maybe that is a good price? its just sort of depressing thinking about how much that all adds compared to the amount i am paying for the parts. the install price, and price of the hardware are pretty close lol.

    0

  17. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    If i get a head unit with 3 RCA outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer.

    can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers, and the  bridge the other 2 channels to power one subwoofer?

    this amp :  http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

    and these speakers :    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html

    the amp says says:

    • 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier
    • Max Power Rating:
    • 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
    • 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan.
    • Bridged, 4 ohm: 500 watts x 2 chan.

    the speakers say:

    RMS Power Handling 110 watts (each speaker)
    Sensitivity 88 dB
    Frequency Response 65 - 29000 Hz
    Impedance (Per Voice Coil) 4 ohms
     
    so because the amp says bridged 4 ohm 500 watts x 2 channel. does this mean i can only get a subwoofer compatible for 4 ohm?
    Now that it says 500 watts x 2 chan, does this mean my speakers will be way overpowered? or can i set the amp to give different watts for speakers and different watts for the subwoofer?
    do i loose any ability to edit how they sound because they are bridged, like would i loose the ability to adjust any types of controls for either speakers or subwoofer?

    so im wondering what would be the cons to doing this if its even possible?

    i should have room to add a subwoofer with this amp, assuming this is possible?

    Thank you guys!

     

    edit: i just briefly read an article about dual voice coils and how they allow you to somehow alter the ohms.... seemed bit confusing, but now that leads me to another question. is single or dual voice coil better for this type of setup with bridging? from what i understand, it seems the dual voice coil options are not needed as long as i keep the ohms the same for the speaker, amp, and subwoofer? as in this case, as long as all are compatible with 4 ohms, it should be fine?

     

    these 2 subwoofers seem cheap enough and have decent reviews, not looking for crazy large bass, just something basic to help produce lows. think these would work? one is dual, other is single coil. which is better if they would fit with my other parts listed above? to be honest the single coil is cheaper and prob would fit my budget alot better. what type of box enclosure would i need for these?

     

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12333_Polk-Audio-db840.html

     

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16143_Polk-Audio-db840DVC.html

    0

  18. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    2 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

    You could get an eq like the eqs746 and would only need one output on the head unit to go into the eq. then it has front real and sub output .  . 

     

    If I was you I would just do a little research and do the labor your self. Most shit with car audio is not to hard forreal. . . 

     

    Where are you located? 

    located in florida. im wondering if any users here are in florida and nearby maybe can help me out, and i can pay discounted fee for labor :]

    also all the local shops want to charge quite alot to install these things. then again this guy said it would take around 4 hours to install 2 component speakers in the front, the head unit, and the amp for the speakers.

    seems like a bit longer than it should take?

    would be nice

    1 hour ago, Tirefryr said:

    You don't NEED the 3 outputs, but it can simplify things and make it easier to control.  Without knowing the application specifics, it. will be hard to explain further.

    ok thanks. what do you mean by application specifics? maybe i can elaborate on it?

    0

  19. Posted

    So i am still confused on head units....

    So I called the local shop where i want to get my car audio equipment installed at, due to their reviews and prices for installation. But the dude on the phone just told me some concerning things... makes me rethink even going there to get the installation done. Or maybe he is right? He says he has been doing this stuff for many years.

    I told the guy i wanted to get 2 front component speakers installed, a new head unit, and an amplifier for the speakers. The amp will be 4 channels, to allow for upgrade of 2 more rear coaxial speakers later. And the head unit will be one with 3 outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. The guy told me that the 3 outputs are not needed at all and too much. He said only 1 or 2 would be fine. i told him i wanted the 3 to allow for a subwoofer and rear speakers later on. he said its still not needed, because only 2 should be needed. He said that the subwoofer output is not needed because you dont normally need to change the subwoofer settings for fade using the head unit if the subwoofer installation is done well? Im not even sure what the fade setting does for subwoofer, i think me mentioned front and back fade or something? is this true? i thought u have to have the subwoofer output so you can actually allow the subwoofer to produce the bass along with the music?

    someone on this website explained it pretty well to me that i DO NEED the 3 outputs to be able to hook these things up.

     

    Also if some1 can tell me how to give you guys a plus 1 for helping me, im more than happy to do it. Someone in my other thread was beyond helpful and id  like to +1 if i can?

    0

  20. Posted

    1 hour ago, THX_Elite said:

    they can it just depends on how the speakers fit and whats already installed in your doors.  I used mdf rings on my doors only so that the speakers would fit without getting in the way of the window when it rolls down.  ...there are (speaker risers/rings) and then there are baffles (speaker "cups" so to speak) like say...these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22349_The-Install-Bay-VXT62.html.  And you are right they can help a bit with sound especially when not using or using very little sound deadening.

     

    P.S. It will turn out fine especially with professional help.  Just make sure your happy with the electronics you choose

    thanks. i know you say professional help. but i dont want to risk leaving certain decisions up to them. like i feel like they may sometimes give bad advice or suggest something i dont really need, just so they can charge a bit more. also i would like to make sure i understand this as much as possible before going ahead, which i thank you for helping :]

    yeah speaker baffles are pretty cheap :]

    hmmm but also heard they can hurt sound quality because they block the back of the speaker for air flow or whatever?

    and you said to make sure im happy with what i choose. i mean i hope i am. its really hard, if not impossible to really pick out speakers without listening to them? just by reading other peoples reviews of the speakers and what they like or dislike is all im really able to do? and look at the frequency range. not much else to make sure i would like them?

    0

  21. Posted

    1 hour ago, THX_Elite said:

    the professional installer you choose will mount the speakers and provide spacers or baffles if needed.  Sound deadening is great but you are only installing some 6.5 components. That being said you don't need much sound deadening to begin with.  look at the sound deadening thread in this forum for more information on that, but your not needing much at all.  I recommend you let them do the whole install...HU, Amp and it's settings, door speakers and a little sound deadening. 

    I have helped as much as I think I can.  

    The rest is up to your budget, your taste and your local installer.  The amp I recommended will do a great job for you at a great price.  You picked your HU, and Components you like, now order it all and take it to your local installer!  LOL

    ...don't forget the Amp wiring kit also available on the same website I have directed to you for affordable pricing.

    ok thanks alot! once again appreciate all this help. if my sound system comes out bad, i blame you... just kidding :]

    hmmmm i thought speaker baffles can help with sound quality and protecting the speakers?

    0

  22. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    1 hour ago, THX_Elite said:

    Yes those speakers are 4ohms..you don't set an amp's ohms, it reads the speakers ohms automatically.  Just plug them in and they will play...you would install your HU turn it up to a good non distorting level and adjust the amp to levels that do not distort your speakers.  

    As for professional install: if that is in your budget, yes get baffles if you think you want them, and as much sound deadening as you can afford behind them.

    sadly i dont really trust myself to do much of these installs. dont want to break something or plug in wrong things. and i do not have any power tools or soldering iron. although i could buy these. but i dont want to risk breaking something and the time it will take to fix it myself.


    as much sound deadening as i can afford? wow, i thought u only need like one sheet of it behind the door? and should i also place some minor amount of sound deadener in the rear of car, if i dont initially put new speakers in the rear? and would layers of it be better for the front door? how much around would it cost to do it a decent amount? 35 bucks for 8 sq ft : http://www.soundqubed.com/Q-MAT-Speaker-Kit_p_215.html

     

    and would i benefit from speaker bezels? or would they not be needed if i get speaker baffles? http://www.amazon.com/RING-6-5BZ-Speaker-Recess-MOUNTING-SPACER/dp/B00K5Q9D7U

     

    edit: wow..... just checked out some quotes to install sound deadener, i didnt even bother to ask my local shop for a quote before because i thought it was an easy thing to install... looks expensive... but it seems some places might offer to do it for free or at a large discount if you are already paying for other items to be installed at the same time. so maybe i will wait to get it installed.... but i would appreciate any info about it, so i know for the future, thanks!

    now i see why u commented about, just get my stuff installed and worry about sound deadener later... lol my bad.

     

    0

  23. Posted

    1 hour ago, THX_Elite said:

    :)  you are a tad confused.  the Alpine SPR-60C's that you are wanting have these specs:

     RMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side...that is taken from the link you put up.  Those specs mean that your front left and front right speakers will want 110 watts EACH for ideal operation.  The amp I mentioned (the one I have and like) just above ^ has these RMS stats:

     4 ohms: 125 watts x 4-Chan. 
    • 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4-Chan. 

    This means that at 4ohms that amp will provide +/- 25 watts more than those speakers are wanting for their rated RMS wattage. Or at 2ohms...you have over twice the power you would need to run these specific type R's. 

    what all this means is...that amp and those speakers will pair up just great.  

    As for sound deadening or speaker baffles...just buy your electronics get them running.  If you don't like to read...get local help ESPECIALLY with amp settings and go from there.

    thanks. i do like to read, as long as i can understand most of what im reading

    the speakers say to use 4 ohms? id assume setting amp to 2 ohms would be bad for them?

    but also why is it now +/- 25, before it was +/- 50?

    also, if im having a local shop help put speakers in, shouldnt i ask to put baffles and or sound deanening in as well at the same time, so as to make the job easier, since they are already in the door panel and have the speakers out and such?

    0

  25. Posted

    1 hour ago, THX_Elite said:
    16 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

    the RMS has a range, talking about the higher end of rms

    "power range: 8-110 watts RMS"

    but yeah i guess just RMS

    This is the exact 4ch amp I used for a long time and still actually have.  It will solve your concerns about the RMS ratings to power your choice of components, if it's still in your budget. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

    If a set of components says it runs 110 watts MAX that means you can expect no more than half of that wattage during normal and constant use.  RMS ratings are there to show how many watts amps/speakers will actually be running/using.  

    It's the same with amp ratings. If an amp says it runs 5 million watts "MAX", it really will only be running 2 and 1/2 million watts or less the majority of the time.  Cheap amps and speakers list there "MAX" ratings to make the amp or speaker seem powerful to users who don't understand RMS ratings.

    -it's good to have extra power, you don't have to use it all...it will not damage your speakers if you dial the amp down to the wattage the speaker needs which will actually provide a cleaner signal.  You have much learning ahead of you!  Most of it should be through reading. 

    ok thanks.

    so do you think the type R alpines are trying that hard to make it seem like they are better than they really are?

    or every speaker has their max RMS listed anyway, so any speaker listed at 110 RMS is still running half that most of the time anyway?

    its sort of hard to find unbiased and knowledgeable info online. i see alot of things claiming one thing, and then others saying its not true.

    know of any good websites that have legit articles to learn from?

     

    also if the speakers say up to 110 RMS would i set the amp to around 100 RMS? or set it to just 55 RMS?

    i do still appreciate all the help you have been giving :]

    wondering if i may ask you to check the last post on the previous page, to see if you have any feedback for that as well?

    thanks again!

     

    0
×