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Billy Jack

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Posts posted by Billy Jack

  2. Posted · Edited by Billy Jack

    17 hours ago, Hellaflush73 said:

    That's bad ass how much you pay for the subs? Do you know if the massive 4000 block amps are any good???

    I got it all brand new with a two year warranty for $1200 shipped to my front door tax and all. I was gonna run a Evil, but couldn't supply enough amperage to feed it because my alt is already outputting all it ever could (130amp). Just got a new iPad mini today to use as a source unit. The subs are due to arrive the 1st day of march and the amp is gonna take 3 weeks. Now I got to get some birch and build a ported box and false floor for the batts and amp. I'm thinking about doing a trunk wall but I don't really want to seal off my trunk, as it's a late model, low mileage car. May just fire the sub, and port to the rear and mount the amp up front where it can get A/C, and put one XS power battery's on each side. Got to do big 3, and run some zero gauge. I am still gonna run a set of evil mids, and tweets up front off a DC 4 channel, but that will be this spring or summer. 

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  3. Posted

    54 minutes ago, Hellaflush73 said:

    on the ct sounds. T-1500 do you know if the amp has had any defects??? I know that the old ones like the 7k and the 1400 white ones were burning up and I guess there boards inside weren't stable and they were breaking with the vibration of the bass not sure if they made improvements on em over the years I really want one of those but I'm not sure due to the bad reviews in the past 

    IMG_0338.PNG

    Yes they had some trouble with those 7k's, but I haven't heard anything about the 1400.1. I just ordered a DC audio 2k and 2 lvl 4 12's myself. I had thought about evils, but I can't get a ho alt so can't go that big, and SE gave me a great deal so I couldn't pass it up. Basically the same price as soundqubed on sale, but DC instead. That and I didn't want to wait 3 or more months for subs. Oh well at least I will have my work car up and banging but I wish I could have ran the evils. 

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  4. Posted

    1 hour ago, afearlesshunter said:

    I ordered a gator back thats .5" shorter than the one I have on, so hopefully that does it. I do like the idle pulley on the mount though, Ill have to keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing that, never really thought of it.

    Part of the problem is a longer than stock belt is needed to fit onto the pulley. The alt is a much larger case and swings a bit further away from the system in order to fit the bracket on the engine.  Has to be long enough to even get the belt on at all, but at the same time short enough to keep it from slipping. 

    Now the iderly pulley does sound like a good idea never tried that before. 

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  5. Posted

    1 minute ago, Hellaflush73 said:

    Orion skar audio or the new t1500 ct sounds any good?

    Orion is ok but not what it used to be and I like CT sounds they make nice amps but I would run away from anything skar. Heard a lot of bad stuff on skar, and I usually take bad reviews as maybe right, maybe not, but when there hundreds or even thousands of bad stories of people getting burned I assume it's probably true. 

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  7. Posted · Edited by Billy Jack

    1 hour ago, Randal Johnson said:

    Their website should have all the information you need. If not, Call or Email Robert Rayfield. His info is on the website.

    He should be able to answer any questions you have personally. Thanks for checking them out !!!

    BTW: Their smallest is a 2 channel 150 watt amplifier (2 x 75 wpc).

    I'm not wanting to buy any. I was just curious what the amps cost. There are no prices, and it says on their site, no internet sales that's why I asked. They look like decent AB units though. 

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  8. Posted

    On 2/20/2017 at 8:11 PM, Infinite913 said:

    Lil more progress. Its a multi phase enclosure design. This is 1 of many 

    20170219_155039_HDR.jpg

    20170220_175630.jpg

    20170220_175642.jpg

    Holy shit now that's a box. I want have to come to Detroit for a demo I will be able to hear it from Kentucky. :roflmao:

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  9. Posted

    23 minutes ago, Randal Johnson said:

    Here's a few links on what's going in this truck if anyone's interested. 

    My Amplifiers: I have a pair.

    http://linearpower.com/LP2150.html

    My front stage component set: Active or passive yet to be determined.

    http://linearpower.com/LP5.2C.html

    Sub Bass: Yet to be determined. 

    What kind of prices does limearpower charge. They got that old school look like the Phoenix gold M-100 I had with them fins running across them. Are they underrated, surely they are cause there strongest amp is what 200 watts or 2x200?  

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  10. Posted · Edited by Billy Jack

    11 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    I thought I understood, but you used the terms so interchangeably I wasn't positive the OP followed.  It also isn't the first thing you should do.  Somewhat of a bandaid and one with minor benefits.

    Reason being is that the biggest difference in a bigger pulley is that it will increase the tension on a fixed length system.  With a tensioner of course it shouldn't change or only minimally based on the spring constant of the device.

    As for surface area that the belt adds.  In a perfectly simple world (ie only two pulleys so maximum pulley contact) you would only gain the amount (1/2 circumference of big pulley - 1/2 circumference of smaller pulley).  Which would mean going from a 4" to a 4.5" pulley you would gain less than .75" of contact along the length of the belt.  If the angle of incidence is such that it normally only touches 25% of the pulley (more normal) you can cut that number in half.  The 6-12% contact patch gain while significant is probably less effective than a clean new pulley and non-glazed belt.  

    Just replacing things isn't the approach I'd take.  Making sure everything is setup right is the first step.  Most people are lazy and skip this.  Don't.

    Says a pulley and non glazed belt is his best bet, then in the next sentence says replacing things wouldn't be his approach. Your tactics confuse me! And who cares about contact patch, that's not the problem. The problem is he needs a larger pulley so the alternator is easier to turn and this isn't going to change much except the alternator will actually be turning instead of just setting there while a belt slips over it. But like I already said a wider pulley and a good belt like the Goodyear above wound be his best bet, then if it's still slipping then his only other choice would be to go to a slightly bigger pulley. But deffinetly try a wider racing belt if you don't mind the expense. 

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  11. Posted

    6 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Bigger, larger, and wider were all used in your description....hmm.  Wider is obviously the ultimate choice, but at what cost?

    What are you on about now? Obviously I was talking about a taller pulley with a greater circumference in my first comment, and I only mentioned wider in the second. He understood what I was saying. Some of us have enough common sense to process what other are telling us. 

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  12. Posted

    38 minutes ago, afearlesshunter said:

    Im willing to try a few more belt sizes before I pull the alt out because that requires the removal of almost everything on the drivers side of the engine. Also, a larger pulley would not greatly increase the surface contact that the belt makes or make the belt much tighter and may lead to having essentially no output at idle.

    Just remember when you finally realize that you have tried everything to no avail, and are changing pulleys anyways I tried to give you good advise from years of dealing with the same problem. And do you honestly believe a alternator that's not turning much because the belt is slipping, is gonna put out more then a alt that's turning to 90% capacity? Trust me bud I'm trying to save you a lot of trouble. But I will say, if this isn't a new belt or you haven't switched to a wider pulley then yea I would try that first. But if you have already done all this and your tentioner is good then save yourself a headache and go big. This is a common problem with high output alts and bigger pulleys is the only thing I have seen work. 

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  13. Posted

     

    2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    :WELCOME:

    No need to lurk when you can hang out.  Looks good!

    I did the same thing cause I'm more of a do err, then a forum person, but I have spoke with some pretty decent guys and, I'm not gonna lie 1 arseho, granted the arseho knows his stuff at least. Welcome! 

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  14. Posted · Edited by Billy Jack

    15 minutes ago, Liro213 said:

    I just bought a house here in melvindale lol

    My aunt still lives on Robert street, her name is Hellen Deitert. Also got a bunch of cousins there, one designs prototype engines for ford. His name is Mark Smith, he was featured in Hot Rod magazine years ago for winning a championship in Pro 5.0. He had a fox body that ran low  9's back in the 80's-90's. 

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  15. Posted

    On 2/20/2017 at 10:35 PM, Tater tater said:

    As soon as the warm weather is here to stay I will take out all my old equipment and take some photos and begin to run wire and ,the I'll be taking like 10 days off work to get the build done so please bare with me and as soon as the warm weather is here to stay in Michigan it's on and I will be looking for suggestions and guidance from you all thanks again everyone.

    Takes 10 days off work to dedicate to his audio system! Your officialy my new hero! Screw work I gotta get banging, dude says lol. 

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  16. Posted

    On 2/21/2017 at 6:15 PM, afearlesshunter said:

    Little Update: PPI 900.4 seems to be doing fine but still am going to move it to the interior. Alt belt continues to slip even at 2k rpm with anything past halfway on the lc1, Ill be ordering a continental elite 39.5" soon hopefully to get it a little tighter. From about 35hz and up I can not tell but and getting concerned for the subs, might be bottoming out but Its hard to tell when I have to keep my foot on the throttle for the belt not to slip at that level. I can smell them slightly after a few minutes but the cones/ dustcaps don't get that warm, Ive had others much much warmer.

    Received my quad 8awg speaker posts the other day, waiting on more lugs to arrive to get those on. 

    You need a bigger pulley and belt as tighter want do a thing but make the belt fail quicker. I have seen this very problem a bunch of times and everything was tried and didn't work until they got a larger pulley. And I already know what everyone is gonna say, (but it want turn as fast causing it to not put out as much), trust me a alternator actually turning with a proper size pulley will do far more then one that's just setting there with the belt spinning on it. Besides it's really not that much difference anyways.

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  17. Posted

    4 hours ago, Tater tater said:

    OK thanks Frog case,and Jason Brittain I don't have DB but I'm in Southgate Mi where you located?

    I used to live in Melvindale myself right behind the big pink best weastern off 94 right past the giant uniroyal tire, if you know Detroit you will know what I'm talking about. I have been down every street in South Gate at one time. I now live in south eastern Kentucky.  

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  19. Posted

    7 hours ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    Alt wise, I would strongly suggest contacting Mechman directly to see if they can custom make one or Singer Alts. 

    I contacted mechman and they said they didn't currently have anything for the 12' 1.4 turbo Cruze but said one was in the works. And I emailed singer and never heard a thing back. Also contacted Ohio generator and all they had was a 140amp which is only slightly better then the 110amp the car came with. GP list a 240 amp but they do say it's a custom build. It's always a problem getting alts for these new cars unless it's a V8 chevy or ford.

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  20. Posted

    12 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

    With out a dedicated (all things considered) center channel setup, you're gonna have a VERY hard time to stage and image driver and passenger. Ask me how I know.

    Might want to listen to Sean on this one brother. 

    You guys aren't understanding. Have either of you never road in or drove a S-10 there tiny. So when both passenger and driver are leaning on the center console there heads are almost touching, hence their ears are basically in the same place. That and I could just adjust it back to my side if I where alone with the push of a button. And remember I did say (near perfect) cause as close as we set leaning on the armrest the other ear was still a few inches off. Either way it don't matter as the truck and system is long gone I put just over 230k miles on it and let a friend have it on payments. Craziest thing about the truck was the original clutch lasted 250k miles before going out I have no idea how all my other S-10's went out at 100k must have been the low gearing. Lol

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  21. Posted

    5 hours ago, SS Teacher said:

    Zed Audio Mikro IV, it fits perfectly under the seat of my Jeep.  It runs cool, has had no noise issue, and worked flawlessly for 2 years now.  The only complain is the set screw for the remote is difficult to tighten, I've had a passenger in the back seat knock it loose twice.  I need to get off my lazy butt and re-position the amp so it doesn't happen a third time...or stop having passengers in the back seat.

    1UM7CSs - Imgur.jpg

    No passengers near the audio equipment is my vote. Lol:doit:

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  22. Posted · Edited by Billy Jack

    1 hour ago, rich00 said:

    I was really leaning toward the IA I 10". Which American bass sub? I don't know why I'm afraid of sundown not because of failure  I just am afraid of them

    This will all depend on what you want your sub stage to do. Do you want sound quality, or spl? Do you want to run sealed, or ported? I'm gonna assume since all you have is 300 watts, you would probably want a sub geared more towards sq, and if you can get JL at cost, I would use a single 10W3, they can fit in small boxes and if you wanted to upgrade later, they can take more then 300 watts but don't have to have it to get loud. Now if your wanting as much spl as possible, I would say sound Qubed HDS210 in a ported box as there on sale right now, and hard to beat on budget spl installs.

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  23. Posted

    7 hours ago, ///M5 said:

    Delayed.  ROFL.

    You CAN'T adjust it out.  Defies Physics.  No way to make things aligned for both.  Ok, perhaps there is a way in a mythical world where you can have each and every driver EXACTLY the same distance from the driver and passenger.

    Now if you tell me you were running an ambiophonic array then my statement would be different, but you said active 2 way...

    I will have you know it was a single cab 2002 S-10, so a small area and I adjusted the time alignment more to the center, so when the driver, and passenger leaned on the center console it was near perfect. Notice I said NEAR. Before, I had it adjusted solely for the driver, but after my friend said it was off, I sat in the middle and set it that way. Now if we leaned on the door and hung half way out the window, yes it wasn't right. Trust me I know exactly what I'm talking about.  

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