yayo86

Looks like the dayton audio might be a good one. was kinda thinking of adding the tweeter on A pillar or in the A/C vents.

Good to know. What would be a good affordable dsp? I already have a Bitone but aint gonna use it too many issues with it and dont wanna spend that money anymore.

I thought itll be fine as long it has the 10x switch?

Ill install the tweeters tomorrow without the passive crossover and see how they sound. I dont have DSP on my truck just active from amp.

For the mids? Im not sure if i want to miss around making kick panels again too much time. Better at door? Im gonna make some new door panels again.

Yes the drivers are few months old with not that many hours on them since my truck is my project weekend vehicle. I am running them active the mids on ch3,4 and tweeters on ch1,2 but factory crossover for extra protection. I removed the tweeters last week and add my old 4” prv speakers to stock location on lower part of dash. The mids kinda seem like they dont like being sealed on the kick panels.

# ///M5. My alpine mids were louder then the tweeters and mids sounded like they were being pushed. #Tirefryer. They came back few years back. The alpines sound like they are being pushed and didnt sound good to me. I know by adding 4 10s im not gonna be probably be able to hear the vocals that much, so thats why im looking for other drivers that could keep up but sound clean.

I currently have the new alpine type x components on my 90mazda b2200 installed on some custom kick panels i made and dont like how they sound. I just purchased 4 10s Savard Rap subs that i plan on installing them in the back space of the seats. So im looking for drivers that could keep up with subs but maybe little more vocal. Im not going for SPL or SQ, something in between. I was thinking of adding 2 5” drivers per door wired down to 4ohm and 2 tweeters per door “ or maybe gonna install in A/C vents” down to 4ohm as well. The amp i have for vocals is a Twisted Sounds 150.4. I was planning on raw drivers madisound or PE, with budget of around 40-70 per driver depending what i need. Also whats a good enclosure for these subs sealed,vented or bandpass? I would like wedge box, i have 50”w, 19”h,19 bottom depth and about 12-14” top depth.

Ill probably install the subs on my 4runner & buy a set 15s for the mazda. Not sure what brand to go with theres soo many out there, want to stay sealed but if i have to i could probably drill some holes on box for aeroport.

I was using 2 cheaper amps at first Cadence zrs c9, but they warent working well. I had to turn the gain almost .75 to have decent amount of volume, they produce hissing noise & 1 amp was having electrical static noise.

Yeah i well be getting a sub amp, but need the front stage first then ill move to the subwoofer.

So 3 2ch amps for front stage? Looks like it might take too much space.

@Kryptonite @bigrank916 the enclosure was built for 15s, i called e-mailed called around & everyone said the box was small for 15s & 12s are good but to me it looks too big for sealed 12s.

Yes @Randal Johnson im planning to get z rack for the bed thats why I installed the enclosure in the cab, my first plan was 6 15s in bed but was going to be too much weight for the z rack. Yes @j-roadtatts I told ssa that there chart recommends 2.5 to 2.75 for 15s depending on models but they still recommended 12s & told that box was sealed not ported.

So I have Audison Voce tweeters, mid range & mid bass on my challenger & need help choosing a 6 channel amp & also have audison bit one on vehcile. Was looking at the arc audio xdi 1200.6 or mosconi one 6ch series but the arc audio has more wattage & its cheaper.