Jimi77
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Posts posted by Jimi77
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Wow, Adire is back. I have a 10" Brahma Mk1 sitting in my basement - best sounding subwoofer I ever heard and amazing output for its size. Is Dan Wiggins involved or is somebody else running the show?
Glad to see Adire is back. I was looking for some lower powered 15s (~200wrms), but that Tempest is really tempting. If it was dual 8 ohm, I'd probably pull the trigger right now.
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I've seen them take 750wrms. It's amazing how well the coil did. Given the condition of the coil, if those were in ported box, they still might be alive kicking.
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4 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:The Dcon is a very tonal subwoofer, and is geared towards loud and smooth. Even sounds that way in a ported enclosure! Unfortunately you are in a juggling act of physics. You can have low, loud, and smooth. Pick two.
I will add that when a subwoofer is in phase with the mids, it is usually the quieter setting of the two phase options. But more balanced sounding. Make sure to test with one mid wired out of phase though, or you might not reach "absolute" phase.
LOL - a variation on Hoffman's Iron law.
I'd say the sub is just delivering what I would expect from that enclosure. It's peaking around ~40hz and dropping off on the top end and you're probably losing cabin gain too, so the drop off isn't unexpected. Try placing the sub toward the rear bumper and facing to the rear to eliminate any cancellation. See Eddie Runner's tutorial below.
http://www.installer.com/tech/index.php?page=aiming
The Dcon is a pretty darn good sub for the money. After hearing a couple set ups with Dcons, I knew SSA was for real.
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On 10/4/2017 at 6:18 PM, ManzKea said:Well the bix will remain the same. With the same amount of port area. Which is 6ft3. A single 15 calls for minimum 3 per sub. Where as the 12s range from 1.8- 3 I believe each sub. So that's why I was wondering if slightly more surface area would be louder or adding another speaker would be louder
As the others said it's really dependent on the enclosure. Assuming you build an optimal enclosure for whatever subs you're using, then cone area usually wins out in sealed enclosures and power handling in ported enclosures, but that's painting with a really broad brush.
When you're talking hitting ridiculous SPL numbers, those guys are testing multiple boxes, controlling panel flex and just moving the microphone around slightly will can have a huge effect. If you're just looking for a unreasonably loud ground pounder, then I'd build a ported enclosure on the large side of the manufacture's recommendations (maybe larger) and tune somewhere between ~32-42hz depending on how loud you want to get and how much low end you're willing sacrifice to get there. As you tune higher, it'll get louder, but the tuning frequency becomes more and more dominate.
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On 10/4/2017 at 2:01 AM, ManzKea said:So when people online shrink their enclosure to add more power what are they actually doing? Like what's their purpose of doing so ?
I'm not sure what they're doing. I guess it could alter the impedance curve slightly which could slightly increase power handling. In the end the thermal/RMS rating is determined by how the coil was constructed (and to a smaller degree the basket, pole vent and other construction considerations). There is nothing that you can really do to make that coil take more power.
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On 9/29/2017 at 3:31 PM, ManzKea said:The thermal rating is the rms correct? Oh and mechanical your talking bout bottoming out and sounding all funky from too much power
Thermal is the RMS rating. The mechanical is Xmech which isn't often disclosed. Mechanical is when you bottom out or otherwise exceed the mechanical limits of the sub (tinsel lead slap would be another common one). You cannot "increase" the RMS rating by putting the sub in a smaller enclosure. You can make it less likely that you'll reach the sub's mechanical limits by putting in a smaller enclosure.
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On 9/26/2017 at 10:52 AM, ManzKea said:Well I'm saying overpower because Im planning on picking up an 8k. These are rated at 3500 a piece. So I decided to go with the 8k since that's the closest size to the amount of rms these will total too. im syre my voltage won't hold a steady 14.4 so I won't consistently see the 8k+ it says it'll do. But just figure I'd ask. Also it'll help for future purposes.
Im actually trying not to build the box bigger because I don't wanna sacrifice any more space. So I'm hoping I can get away with a slightly shrunken down box if I add more power to it. It calls for 6ft3 for two 15s. That's on the small side. And I'm able to give it 5.5ft.
Ive also read that the bigger the box the more efficient the driver will be. So you could get loud with less power. So I'm figuring if I keep it on the smaller side having more power won't harm the sub as much
Subs have a thermal rating, if you exceed that for an extended period of time, you'll toast the coil. That thermal rating is independent of the enclosure. The smaller enclosure will act as a "heavier" air spring, which can increase mechanical power handling, but won't increase thermal power handling.
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The aiming doesn't look bad to me, but it's hard to say without actually sitting in the vehicle. Where are you crossing and what midbass driver are you using? What amp?
Based on your post, I'm guessing you fried those tweeters by pushing them too hard to overcome road noise. A higher crossover point can help with power handling. If you need more volume from the tweeter, you may have look at other options. One option would be use multiple tweeters, kinda like a line array. IIRC, with a dual tweeter set-up you want to LP one of the tweeters at ~8khz to avoid comb filtering. Maybe a large format tweeter that can handle more power.
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12 hours ago, ///M5 said:On axis always means pointing right at your head. Nothing else. Tweeters sound like crap pointed like that, but full ranges sound like crap if they don't. Perhaps that sways you to the tweeter...
Yeah, I was misusing the term. Tweeters truly on-axis is pretty rare in car audio.
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30 minutes ago, ///M5 said:Can't say that an on axis tweeter has ever sounded the best to me on the a pillar. Full ranger absolutely but tweeter not usually. Big difference when using a driver with good off axis response and not up there as well though.
Depends. With heavy metal, on-axis can be problematic, especially with the driver's side tweeter. I guess by on-axis, what I really mean is aimed toward the imagery listening position between the where the driver and passenger sit. Semi-on-axis I guess.....
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20 minutes ago, ///M5 said:Should really focus on the mounting locations before picking driver and crossover frequency. Aiming and location would be exactly how I'd then narrow down both the driver and crossover point.
The midbass is going in the door. The tweeter will go in the a-pillar, it may be on or off axis depending on how testing works when I get the actual tweeter in hand. I suspect I'll end up on-axis, especially if I go with the NVX ring radiator tweeter; the Alpine & Vifa Xt's definitely sounded better on-axis. I've done enough installs to know that a lower crossover point will prevent rainbowing and the stage pulling to the passenger side. Ideally, I'd cross at ~300hz, but I do want to keep the car looking stock and running multiple drivers in the a-pillar location presents some fabrication challenges, drives up the cost, etc. A few years ago I wouldn't hesitate to take on the project, but now that I have kids, I have less time and money to dedicate to car audio.
At least I still have my Pioneer p9 combo so I have pretty significant processing power.
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1 hour ago, jcarter1885 said:I live in Texas, so I cant avoid the sun and my car is exposed to the elements 24\7 as I dont have a garage either. Ive had these tweeter going on 2.5 or 3 years now. How they sound will depend on how you position them, if you want in your face with great output then face them on axis (how I currently run mine). If you want mellow and great sound quality then face them off axis. I cross at 2kH, yes you can cross them lower just depends on goals.
I dont want to clutter up this thread but any other questions just shoot me a pm and ill be glad to answer them.
Thanks a bunch.
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The crossover point in that set's passive crossover is 4khz, so I'd try and stick close to that for the sake of the tweeter.
If you're having some sort response problem, then I'd start with a phase and intensity alignment.
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?p=2162489#post2162489
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20 minutes ago, Aaron Clinton said:Glad you made it over to SSA. My biased vote doesn't count. But crossing the SSA Evil 1's at 2000hz is no problem, but I wouldn't suggest going all too much lower, I believe there was someone that ran down to 1500 approx with no issues. But again, it is install dependent.
It may be a biased vote, but at least it's a knowledgeable one.
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When I said ~1200hz I was referring to the Aura. If I got the SB/NVX, I'd probably go ~1600-2khz. Where are you crossing the SB at? Since heat may play a factor in the dimple detaching, do you park in the sun often and how long have you had them?
While we're at it, how do like the Evil 6.5? Any signs of break up at higher frequencies? Does it sound hot, forward or bright (like a Focal or ID CX) or more laid back and warm like a Dyn or Morel.
Thanks a bunch guys.
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1 hour ago, Tirefryr said:The Aura will require an enclosure or electronic cone control of some sort if you want to cross it over that low. I speak from experience here. Also, it rolls off steeply in the upper range (especially off-axis), so you may find yourself needing a small dome tweet raise the level. The Dayton ND20s work GREAT for this!
I'd probably cross the Aura's higher (~600hz - 1.2khz), but I really don't want to go 3 way up front. I know I'd have to get the Aura's on-axis or the top end will suffer.
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2 hours ago, AXEHAMMER said:Cant speak to anything but the sound of them, and frankly it's amazing. Very warm and clear sound.
Where do you have them crossed???
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Anybody got these installed yet? How low can you cross them?
I'm looking for some tweeters. I'm between the Seas Neo and the 2" Aura Whisper at the moment. I know the Aura is really a wideband driver, but it should easily handle the lower crossover point I'm seeking. Tweeter will go in the A-pillar and I'm not sure how on/off axis it will be, but I'll figure that out once I have the tweeters in hand. I'd like to cross at 2khz or lower (300-500hz would be great, but then my A-pillar project becomes a little more challenging). A few people have crossed the Seas low, but it seems like most people cross them at ~2.5khz or higher. Obviously the Aura Whisper can be crossed low, but it'll take more effort to get them on-axis and I'll have to fabricate some sort of grill. The NVX/SB Acoustics tweeter could work, but I've read about the dimple detaching.
I have an old P9, so I have a 36db crossover available. Can the Evil tweeter get that low? This will be an SQ oriented install.
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Hey, just popping in here. Been in the hobby for 3 decades now, usually I'm on CAF and occasionally I pop into DIYMA. I'm looking for input on the new SSA tweeters and I bet this would be a good place to start.
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New find - Fountek FR59??
in Subwoofers / Speakers
Posted
I suspect it'll handle more than 10wrms if you cross in the ~4-500hz range. Sensitivity may be an issue. Looks like a good option to the 2" Aura driver.