Inzlow

Hello everyone. After reading through new member rules and regulations, I can see this is a no-nonsense group. Good, I'll get right to it. This install started as I have aquired (3) 4' x 8' sheets of 1" MDF and like my music louder than necessary and typically in the rock/rap genres. On top of the material and shop to work in, I have all the tools required for making a good system (table saw, trim gun, router, electrical meters, function generator, D/C power supply, oscilloscope, etc.) And the know-how to use these tools correctly. Here's my parameters for the project. 2004 Nissan Armada with 44"W x 24"H x 26"D to work with. $1000 to spend on this, I know whoever reads this is scoffing or smiling now, and I know why. So past the fact that I'm just a weekender, I need advice on Sub size 12, 15, 2x 12's, 2 15's etc. Sub Brand, Mono class D amp, Enclosure type and size, relax I don't need you to build it for me. I have downloaded, read, and practiced manipulating these audio design calculators; WinISD, BoxNotes, SubBox Pro, AJDesigner, DB Dynamix Audio Calculator(All the free ones). After plugging in my user parameters to each of these calculators and taking note of what changes with one factor, when I make a change to another. I have a pretty good understanding, mechanically of whats taking place. And I understand the plans that it gives me; how to cut a straight line to the right length, bracing, calculating area, but I don't know if the plans it gives me will produce the sound I'm looking for, because I don't know what the data is supposed to look like if that makes sense. That's where you guys come in. Also, I have not forgotten that at some point, probably first, I will have to get the vehicle's electrical upgraded. alternator, battery power and ground. I'm not wanting to have to run another battery and supply back there for this project as the factory Bose head unit, mid's, and high's will not be replaced. So before I go any further I will let you guys fire away at the noob. Thank you in advance for any time and input to my project. Have a nice day!

Update- OK after much review and contemplation, I have started the gears to move forward, well at least the ones that open my wallet...So, hopefully I have used this forum, and the information provided,( thank you everybody) to upgrade the audio system in my vehicle. I'll start with the first suggestions first. I am/was happy with the factory Bose for my upper mids and highs, but for the price I figured it would be worth it (4)Rockford Fosgate 6.5" 3-ways to replace the 4 factory 6.5's -$50. There's a factory tweeter on the dash I will omit or find a replacement. The instrument cluster cover was cracked a while back so I ordered a new cover (goes behind bezel for head unit) -$200/not part of the project funds. Since I'm taking that out I thought about new head unit and found a Sony non-touch screen DD w/harness, wiring kit, and bezel to fit -$130. The SSA GCON 15" -$260. The Big 3 upgrade Alt/Ground/Batt wiring -$70. Now on to the amp and 3-D plans for the enclosure -$50 to $100 , although I have been fine tuning my skills with WinISD, Port-Box Design, Subwoofer Design Software but I'd hate to waste 2-3 sheets of MFD. That leaves around $500 for the 1 ohm class D amp, dampening material, speaker wire, misc fasteners and hardware etc. Its coming together! Updates to follow, again thanks everyone!

Randal Johnson which manufacture for sub and amp would you use? Tuned to 36 htz? Forgive me I'm just learning the sound dynamic variables, but isn't 36 Htz a little high for a 15" sub? Am I correct on this: Tuning the box and port too low or too high for a particular driver will not allow that driver to capture certain frequencies because the box and port have been tuned higher or lower than that setup will allow? Could you show me what a good signal data set should look like for frequency response generally speaking for this project? And which way is better and worse on the scale? Ideally the signal should look like a rolling soft angled uppercase "M" with the left peak rolling off in the low 20's Htz, and the right peak starting around 45-50 htz with minimal loss in between? The dB should be just lower than sub's manufacturers spec? I just purchased Subwoofer Design Toolbox and this software seems a little more user friendly for me. I'm trying to avoid making the NOOB mistakes, but its hard to translate youtube descriptions and such to software interface and know what happened...I appreciate the help.

Thank you

Thank you for the direction

Thank you

Thank you rich00