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About Hoemygosh

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  1. Thanks Tirefryr.. that all makes sense. I've done a ton more reading over the course of today and finally had an AHA! moment. Especially regarding the data I already had from trying to find my box rise. The thing I wasn't grasping previously was the fact that yes, the coils are wired to 1ohm.. but the amp itself isn't actually seeing that low of impedance. Especially after going through the above data and running the average, which came out to 2.64ohm. It now makes sense that I can't expect to see 1 ohm power rating output from an amp that's seeing almost triple that on average.. Regardless of how cheap or expensive the amp is. So I think I've kinda learned my own answer after slowing down to read and think a little more. For what its worth though, I did stop at a buddy's house today to use his SPL Lab meter.. 140 flat from the dash on one of my favorite tunes by E40. Not a huge number... but I think mildly respectable considering the power situation?
  2. So playing a test tone at the same frequency of a sustained note within a song isn't the same? I'm here to learn, so definitely direct me to where I need to read to understand the difference. I always assumed that a test tone would play the same as the same frequency note of a song. (example, Ying Yang Twins - Salt Shaker I believe is a 39?hz note) but it won't draw/sound the same as a 39hz test tone?
  3. Alright guys. I picked up a Hifonics BXX2000.1D for my Fi BLv3 18. A good friend of mine has a scope, so we dialed in gains on a 0db 50hz test tone. I have the electrical to feed it. I’m able to maintain voltage at full tilt. I was reading about power and impedance rise and decided to clamp the amp and get some readings for myself. I’ll save you the time in telling me “it’s a hifonics amp, you get what you pay for... etc” I’m fully aware. I plan on going Sundown this spring with tax money. However, I’ve ran a few HF amps in the past and have been satisfied. I ran test tones at full tilt, 20hz to 55hz, measured AC voltage at speaker output terminals, and AC amperage output clamped on positive speaker lead. Wired to 1 ohm. Wrote everything down, popped into a spreadsheet, and now I’m a little concerned with the output I’m getting. Watts calculated = Amps x Volts Impedance calculated = Volts / Amps From what I understand, the rise and peaks go hand in hand accurately.. but less than 300w actual output??? Am I missing something? I understand HF doesn’t usually “rate” at RMS if ever at all.. but wtf. Can anyone offer any input? Does this sound right, is something up?
  4. A valid idea, but I’ve never felt anything out of the ordinary whatsoever in my steering.. I’ve driven without or with a bad pump on previous vehicles before. The issue also happens when coming to a stop in a straight line as well though.. From what I’ve been reading, I am starting to think it has more to do with the alt Control settings that are in the PCM... but I’m not sure how I can address that
  5. Alright, so I've done some searching and can't find any posts similar to what I'm dealing with. The closest I can find on google is something referring to the battery current sensor. Aparrently its only on 2005+ Tahoes though, but it senses draw and adjusts alternator charging output accordingly. Mine is a 2000, and when I went through my Big 3, I saw no such sensor as expected. The issue I'm having is a lot more noticeable now that I have a Stinger volt gauge in the dash (Installed same time as new HO Alt, 9/11/19) When I start up, I'm at around 14-14.3v.. after warmed up, 13.9v is consistent. Now... I've notice multiple times that when I am coming to a stop, or slowing down to make a turn, I see a large drop to high 11's to mid 12's.. but straight back up again to 13.9v after fully stopped or out of the turn I was making. Happens regardless of draw (Lights on/off, heat/ac on/off, volume high/low) I would like to assume this has something to do with my main battery, seeing as how its a standard wet cell and has some age to it. I plan on swapping for an NSB34/78 in the near future when the wallet isn't empty. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something stupid or something that could be addressed in the mean time until I get a new cell up front. Also for the record, while sitting still at idle, or at cruising speed, full tilt on the music yields less than .1v drop if any, no dimming either. 2000 Tahoe 5.3 Big 3 (4 soon) in 2/0 255a Alt Standard Group 34 wet batt Not sure what other info is needed, but I can get as specific as you need... Any ideas?
  6. Been cruising the forums for years, had an account, didn’t post much.. Finally getting back into one of my favorite hobbies now that daycare isn’t eating the bottom of my wallet! Not sure what my old account was, but I had an 18” AA Avalanche in an old Jeep Cherokee XJ.. had a few of you good ol’ boys help me through my first recone IIRC.
  7. Hoemygosh

    How did you guys find SSA???

    Always cruising threads linked in google results.. decided now that I finally *almost* have something built that I’m proud of, maybe I should join in on the action around here