jellyfish420

i got that graph from the man himself, mike. after he gets some chit straightened out hes gonna redo the SS site with all the graphs for the RL-p's just like he did for the RL-i's. so just be patient

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless".... But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> but figuring the q, there is nothing really to model.either way i'm awaiting mike's email back. i will post his responce to the question when i get it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I was just pointing out that a larger box wouldn't be sloppier <{POST_SNAPBACK}> good call for squeak! i think i'm gonna go w/ the bigger box, so if it don't suit my needs... i can just slap some ports in it, instead of rebuilding the whole thing

mikes response: Both the 3.25 cu ft and the 2 cu ft net volumes will work, but in all honesty the response difference between the two will be quite minimal. Attached you will find the leap graph for the RL-p15 exhibiting the relative differences. The Butterworth (magenta solid) box is 2.1 cu ft net volume. The Bessel (tan dashed) box is 3.55 cu ft net volume. The Enhanced Q (green dotted) is 0.95 cu ft net volume. Essentially, you are asking for a comparison between the Butterworth and Bessel alginments, which as evidenced in the attached image, follow each other quite closely. I do not think that a 2 cu ft box will be much more peaky than a 3.25 cu ft box at all to tell you the truth.

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless".... But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> but figuring the q, there is nothing really to model.either way i'm awaiting mike's email back. i will post his responce to the question when i get it.

how hot should the cone get? after wanging pretty hard tonite for some reason i decided to feel the cone. i couldn't even keep my hands on them. i unstand that the vc produces heat and aluminum will "wick" the heat away from the "vc" which don't get me wrong, is a good thing. but how how does everyone else get?

i've been hearing that stereo>mono>surround. why is that. i've been wanting to do something cool for the house but i don't know what to do. i used to have a dvd player w/ surround built in. $100 walmart special. well it just crapped out. so i was wondering what a good "stereo" setup would consist of that would be better than surround. i'm kinda cheap and i like to do stuff myself so it'll be DIY. i already know i need a nice sub and amp for the sub. but what would the front be? 4's, 2's, 6.5's??? i hope you get what i'm saying.....

ya, i think i'm just gonna go sealed. i have a q though...a q of .707 is the flatest response and the lowest F3, using all the calculators i found said this would be around 3.25ft per driver. would there be anydraw back from doing around 3ft per as opposed to the 2ft that is recommended other than a little lower power handling? this way if i wanted to port it later i could just add the ports, instead of rebuilding the entire box to make up for port displacement.

before..... after.... well i had to send one of my 6.5's in to RE so i decided it would be a perfect time to mess w/ these. i had a couple of gouges where the screw driver had hit it. i also added about a 2" hole in the back of each one. i haven't got to here both of them together but from what i can tell, the one 6.5 has as much midbass as the both of them together...

the grills don't fit. i first made these for my cdt cl-6x's which didn't have grills. i was thinking about just taking the mid out and painting the ring black.

i found this. looks to be pretty nice http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=164

Are you kidding CB? That shifter is awesome! Jelly has mad style. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> why thank you. i like my shifter too. here is some better res pics... maybe if your lucky i'll clean the shifter up and get a pic of it too

i've been there before when i smell the glue is when i shut it off for a while.

bottom: top: caps & transformers: transistors & heatsink:

the shop up the road wants $70 just to look at it. so i'm probably just gonna try my luck. what would normally go wrong in an amp that comes on, but has no output?

ps its HEAVY. i threw it on the scale and its about 35lbs.

thats looking really good! gotta question. how far does the window go down?

thats what i thought... OMG that cone is havin sex w/ the phase plug

wow that site told me that i need a MIN of 179in^2 port area but w/ the calculator i was right 4-4" ports would be 1.7ft @ 42Hz. and w/ 1 port plugged its 1.9ft @ 35Hz. all ports being 25.5" long. how do you guys feel about subs up and ports forward?

i think i found a way to do a fiberglass ported box it'll be 2.9ft^3 net @ 34Hz w/ 3-4" ports. per sub w/ a 4th 4"port that has some sort of plug so for a comp i can unplug it for 2.6ft^3 net @ 42Hz. hey kent if you could, double check this for me. 2.9ft after all displacements 3-4" ports @ 34Hz....how long do you come up with? i get ~26"

well i've been wanting spl, spl, but as my system gets better i find myself listening to less rap, and more rock. and i've always loved double kick drum. you heard that new system of a down? lots of double kick. the sealed would be considerably faster and tighter w/ that type of music, right? as for the fiberglass ported. the only way i have enough room for the 2 ported is w/ my half wall box, and that needs to be built inside the car. but the sealed i could do out of the car....i don't know what i wanna do i'm just throwing around some ideas right now...

you cant tell from the pic, but all the dots on the dice are painted chameleon the one 6.5 seems to have as much midbass as the pair used to have. it is also more full sounding, there is no hollowness to it anymore i'm in the process of building new kicks. w/ the tweeter by the mid. i'm gonna raise them off the floor this time, and glass them to the panels thats there. this was mainly to see how the "hole" sounded, and see how i liked the yellow.....i like it

12's or 15's?

very clean, very clean!!! i like it alot!! what do you have running the subs? what are the specs on the box. again, NICE install!

i got one...and no i don't live in LA but its a very helpfull piece of equipment..might wanna pick one up.