dlink

ok ok no w7!

Well I was quite outbid (went for 305). I am really liking the Fi Q10 & Fi BL10

Well I max bid 250 on the w7 and all I have heard from it so far was pretty much all good things. Not attempting to call you out or anything like that at all, again, newbie, just saying what I have read. We will see if I am out-bid I guess http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showth...highlight=jl+w7 For example: Granted there are statements there that speak poor of it, but most sounds like improper installation, etc. That is also the thread that sparked my interest in Fi (before it was mentioned in another of my numerous threads here) As for the value statement, that is I why I went e-bay and max bid at 40% retail cost (from crutchfield)

exactly! I don't want to take up much space, but it is not a deal breaker. I am bidding on ebay for a 10w7, I like the looks of the Fi SSD. I am learning. I ask questions to gain knowledge and make better decisions. I don't ask to get answers I want to hear. I asked about my L4+XXX, found out that it wouldn't be the sound I was looking for, so I scratched it. I asked about a slim woofer, found out a regular would be better and not eat up a ton of space, and I am reading about quick disconnects on this board as well as on other sites, so it may be a non-issue. My misunderstanding of the definitions of SPL, etc. I am learning and I really do appreciate everyones' help and patience with someone who is new to the game. I've learned more about car audio these past few months than I have computer programming theory (which is bad since that is my second major ) I've received more help from more people on this board in a week than I have for 2-3 weeks on other boards combined!

I was worried I'd have to take everything apart. I wanted to do a self install, but living in an apartment, not a huge selection of tools, and even less space to keep things like seats and carpet. Also the only shelter for my car is the tree that I park under, and November in IL generally calls for a bit more than that I could leave it at my parents' house and drive my 15 yo sisters' car while she waits for her license over winter break.

no luck on the torrent front

The true purpose is to get some great sounding music for my daily commute. The "get loud" aspect would just be a nice bonus. I don't see why you can't have both.

So I'm looking for sub. Nothing huge, a 10" would most likely be best. I would prefer a small footprint, so I was looking at some of the slimmers subs out there. Kickers, JL, etc. What is the deal with slim subs? Do they perform as well as their deeper counterparts? Any benefits to them other than the small boxes needed? ANd on the topic of boxes, I read how you needed a proper box to make the sub sing, but I am curious. 1) how do you determine port length? 2) pro/con of doing a bended port? 3) the box can easily be too small, but can a box be too big? Just some questions while I am learning everything.

I want them to hear it. Not see it I drive a tiny car, so I think it would be fun to be sitting on campus next to some guy in a tweeked civic and next thing he knows he hears music and has no idea where from

That is interesting! I would not have though that. Well ok then. A full sub it is Although, this thread wasn't 100% just to see what would fit my car, I did have a general curiosity of the differences. I am a math major, so playing with these numbers amuses me. I read that whole ported tutorial for fun, for example

It was more of a joke then anything, hence my smiley The real desire is Although, I do want my car to be noticed. I'm trying to build a system I can be proud of, I want to show it off That SSD 10 looks really nice, and not too hard on the wallet either. Weird thing here. Fi's website says box size of .9-1.5 cuft ported. I went to RE Audios L-Port Box Calculator and input the specs into step 1 and it gave me an ideal volume of 34.071 ft.cu And yes, I convereted mm in in and cm^2 into inches^2

If I had a well built 10" slim next to a well built 10" regular, If I closed my eyes would I be able to tell the difference? Are there general differences in wattage, frequency range, etc.

I am going to go along with your two assumptions that I am confusing my terminology. My goals, in laymans terms, are: Long story short: I want a system that sounds good at all levels, and I want one that can sound good and be loud at the same time. Long story long: I want a system that sounds good for most all types of music, but primarily hard rock, rap, techno, and classical. By "good" I mean accurate sounds, I want the music to be complete, no missed instruments. I had a set of Aiwa headphones back in the day that let me hear parts of my music I didn't know existed. I want a complete system. I want highs, mids, AND bass. I don't need necessarily need bass that rattles houses, but I want my rap to sound like rap, and my Disturbed and Slipknot to sound mean too. This will be a daily drive car, so I want to be able to hear these nuances at any sound level. Speaking of sound level, I also want the system to be able to get loud. Now I am not going to be in any competitions, but I want to be able to roll my windows down in the summer and cruise campus and piss people off, or at least let them know what I am listening to I don't care if the people in the buildings know, but the people on the sidewalk or in the car next to me should. I want to be the guy who has his car on when my friends and I go out and hang out in the parking lot after we see a movie or whatnot. This "extra volume" is what I was incorrectly calling spl.

Poor wording on my part. This is what I meant by smaller. Let\'s define the box dimensions to be width * depth * and height. We will call width left to right that touches the floor, depth: front to back as touches the floor, and height be from the floor to part of teh box furthest from the floor (the top). My assumption was that a slim sub would have a small footprint, ie, the area of the base (width*depth) would be smaller than a regular box. Granted it would have a larger height, but in terms of cargo space, I could put more in the hatch, as I do not normally stack items. My question still stands, though, do they perform as well as their regular depth counterparts? Also, no ported for slim? Then why do some sites give ported specs for their slim line? ie: The new RE Audio SL Series http://www.reaudio.com/specs.html

Perhaps not the right thread, but I'd like the true story on capacitors; are they needed, are they not? When do you need a second battery (or whatver a batt clip is)?

working tags

My first ideas was subless. I still wanted an even mix of volume and quality. The subless plan was due to a desire to keep the system simple, but most importantly to retain cargo space in my tiny hatchback. After a bit (well, more than a bit really) of reading and research, I found that a subless system would be lacking in both. Volume for obvious reasons, and SQ due to my lack of lower frequency support. So, I now am going to get a L61-2 front stage with some sort of sub in the back. I was thinking a slim would be nice do to the small footprint, but I don't know if they lose quality or punch when you slim them down.

L4s are gone! They went fast RE XXX 6.5c left, still only 300 US$

Interesting. I was worried this would be the result (selling off everything). Well, I got a pretty good deal on the L4s and the XXX's, so I'll be able to pass that on to some lucky forum members I guess. Luckily for me, I might be able to get a L61-2 set for sub 500$ /edit gah, I need 25 posts before I can go to classifieds, but consider the L4 and RE XXX 6.5c for sale. 200 for L4 300 for XXX 6.5c Pics avail when my g/f brings me her digital camera.

Specs for the 9887 can be found >here<. I'd love to just post the info, but I honestly don't know what I am looking for :/ The XXXs were not meant as rear fill, they were meant for midbass. I figured tweets for highs, L4s for midrange (that's what they are advertised for) and XXX for midbass. I'm grabbing the freq specs now, so expect an edit sometime soon: Freq. Specs: XXX tweets - 30 hz L4 - 90-1700 Hz via manual (.pdf) XXX 6.5 - 62.3 Hz (seems weird) Other data tells me: 87.5 dB midbass 92dB Treble (for what it is worth) i cannot find any documentation on the freq range of the XXX's. All I have is a crappy pic off the box The numbers are based off this site: http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...=auto&tl=en /edit I'm starting to think I should just sell the speakers and go L61-2 L1 - 3,000 hz - 20,000 hz L6 - 51.5 hz - 5000 hz Sub - ~20-50 hz depending on choice

and that is exactly what I found on all the boards where people asked the same question. I've also read that rear fill is pretty much unnecessary and a waste of funds, but I didn't buy the XXXs for rear fill, I bought them for midbass, so should I keep them all? Also, will the 9887 handle this many speakers? The specs page says... so will it even be able to handle 2 L4s + 2 XXX 6.5s + 2 tweeters + 1 sub? If not, or if it would sound better, should I sell those and get the L61-2 set for the just a bit more? http://www.12velectronics.com/servlet/the-...nologies/Detail Or get a C61-2 for the same price? http://www.12velectronics.com/servlet/the-...nologies/Detail /edit anyone who would like to take the time to talk to me in real time, my aim is dlinkwit27. i'd appreciate it.

150-250 for sub 150-250 per amp ~750 max

what I meant by "50:50 SPL:SQ: was that I meant like I want equal parts SQ and SPL. Ideally, I want speakers that can do a combination of both. That is why I got the RE and the L4's . I heave read and heard great things about them. The L4s have a great range, and the XXX's supposedly can get some crazy midbass. However, despite this, my rresearch has made me think that I'd still be lacking the truly low frequencies if I don't go with a sub, hence the thread. I'd prefer to stay at 10" or an absolute max of 12" because I'd like to keep as much space in the hatch as possible. I haul stuff on a regular basis. That was why I started out with a desire to be subless. A 15" is simply out of the question. I was thinking a 12" slim might work as well because even ported it would have a relatively small footprint, but I wasn't sure if I'd be sacrificing anything by going slim. As for the front stage locations, my plan was as follows: RE XXXs in rear locations absolutely. The Yaris has a 6" front speaker, but I've seen people put a 6x9 in there, so I figured I could have the L4s and the tweets be put in a 6x9 sized baffle and put them both in the panel. If not, I can just put the tweets in the A-pillar. As for budget, my original budget has been thrown out the window more or less. I'm not trying to stay less than 1500, preferably around 1200 (USD) The L4s and XXXs cost me around 450, the HU another 250, so that leaves me with roughly 500-750 left to spend on speakers alone. I am not counting install and dampening yet. With the L4s and the RE's I know the sub would have a lot to live up to, so I am thinking maybe around 150-250 for the sub and the same for each amp (assuming I would need 2 amps to run what will be 7 speakers). Again, though, I am not above selling the L4s and XXX's if you think something simpler like like the HAT L61-2s + sub would be a better sound than what I have. I hope that clears things up. Thanks a ton for the comments already. If I had known I'd get such a fast reply I would have started here earlier in the process.

I want both, if possible. For a daily commute, I'd like for it to sound nice. I want what has been described as a "warm" sound. Nothing to high or "crisp" but I also want the ability to make it loud during the summer or if I am out with my friends. If this is not possible, let me know. I am new to this admittedly.

i liked garden state. 3rd post. off to handle my business