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dlink

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Posts posted by dlink

  1. Posted · Edited by dlink

    2 ohm, which I assumed was ok.

    From the Alpine site:

    * Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 4Ω for 4ch.) 75W x 4

    * Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz @ 2Ω for Mono ch.) 300W x 1

    From what I read, lower ohm => harder tod rive, so if it can do 2, it can easily do the L6 and L1 at 4 an 8 respectively

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  6. Posted

    Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that.

    And considering that 600W is in the zone marked in red in the manual, why would you want it to? :)

    What it can "handle" is different than what's optimal.

    Yea, I screwed that reading up. Realized it too late to edit.

    The pdx5 doesnt get super hot, is ok to touch, not too too hot, and it doesnt seem to affect the amp, i would say after 10 mins it gets to the temp it stays at, but ive drove for hours at times with it on 1/2 to 3/4 volume and it never shuts off, just stays warm.

    the actual output of mine is 105 rms x 4 in 4 ohm and 367 rms x1 in 4 or 2 ohm.

    367 pretty close to 400, which is right at the top of optimum, so we might be looking at my setup.

    HAT L6 + HAT L1 + JL 10w6 + Alpine PDX-5

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  7. Posted

    Right now the M5 IXL 10 looks real appealing, the only problem is that it needs power, so I'd have to get it its own amp. The 10w6 would still be cheaper in the long run.

    Before shipping I'm looking at the following combos and prices. The Fi Q would give me the same issues. I failed to notice it would take 1000w rms

    JL w6 275

    PDX-5 360

    635

    m5 IXL 165

    PDX 4.100 289

    MRMP-M1000 250

    704

    m5 IXL 165

    PDX 4.150 375

    MRMP-M1000 250

    790

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  8. Posted · Edited by dlink

    Kicker zx700.5 looks like a good one too.

    RMS Power Rating:

    4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel

    2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel

    4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)

    Except that it says it is a class D. I know most mono are D for the sub, but I can't tell if the front four are D also, or AB.

    /edit

    Either way, it's 20+ inches long, so won't easily fit under the seat.

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  12. Posted · Edited by dlink

    Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers. :P

    I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

    im using an alpine pdx 5 and it puts out lots of clean power, and it hardly takes up space, but it gets hot,. i paid 600 for mine, way to much, but thats the only one i could get, then a week or two later, bam the store on here throws up some of the pdx 5's for $369

    How hot, and after how long? And hypothetically

    CEA-2006 Power Rating
    • CEA-2006 Power Rating (4Ohm@14.4 V =1% THD+N), S/N 76dBA (Ref: 1W into 4Ohm & 2Ohm for Mono ch.):
    • 75W x 4 + 300W x 1
      RMS Power Ratings

    • Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 4Ω for 4ch.) 75W x 4
    • Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz @ 2Ω for Mono ch.) 300W x 1

    So that would be enough for

    • L1 Pmax : 100w (8 ohm) Pnom: 7w
    • L6 Pmax : 250w (4 ohm) Pnom: 60w
    • w610: Pmax: 600w (dual 4 ohm) Poptimum: 300-400

    ?

    The reason I ask is because the JL site has the following image

    7923.jpg

    Which says to me that the optimum wattage is around 300, which means the PDX will be putting out its max wattage for that channel on a continuous basis.

    Furthermore, the manual says it can handle 600w continuous. The PDX-5, from what I can see, can't even reach that.

    This would explain the heat issue, but can this reduce the lifespan of the amp?

    /edit

    the JL Org Slash is even weaker

    Rated Power Front Channels: 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

    Rated Power Rear Channels: 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

    Rated Power Subwoofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

    PA1100.5

    Power

    Power Specs 125 watts x 4 (@ 2 ohm) and 600 watts x 1 (@ 1 ohm) Continuous

    or

    80 watts x 4 (@ 4 ohm) and 280 watts x (@ 4 ohm)

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  14. Posted · Edited by dlink

    I don't think you'd be making a bad decision with the Q, but have you looked into the W6v2?
    No, because I am an idiot and read another thread wrong and until about 10 seconds ago thought the W6 was the SPL sub. :-/ I thought the w7 was the SQ, which is why I was so interested in it. /slaps head. I have also heard good things about the RE SE. And I can get a 10SE for ~130 on ebay. Half of what the Q and w6 cost. ikesound has the SE12 for 99$ !!
    Just drop the BL off your list right now. You're running HAT drivers, run a sub that will blend with them

    Consider it dropped. :) I have no spine :P

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  15. Posted · Edited by dlink

    Oh. I thought 2-channel meant left/right, and 4-channel meant front left/right + rear left/right, but I guess then that does make sense. Stupid numbers. :P

    I've ditched the W7. Thinking Fi Q10 or Fi BL10 (daily) now. Seem to have the highest reviews for the price. I've heard rumors of 5-channel amps, but I've done no research on those yet. A decent 5 might cost the same/less than a 2 and a 4 (maybe ?) Alpine PPDX-5 for $350 on eBay, Polk Audio 1100.5 for $475, for examples

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  17. Posted · Edited by dlink

    Do I need a 4 channel? I figured with the L6 midrange/midbass in the kickpanel and the L1 tweets, I would only need a 2 channel.

    Trying to stay around 200 US$ as I'll need another for my sub. I looked at the Sundown SAX 100.2, but a tad out of my price range at the moment at 219 US$.

    Unless there is a consensus that I can't beat the quality of a 100.2 at 219, then I might consider it.

    The RF T400-2 looked interesting also. Rockford is a name that comes up a lot, so it can't be all bad, also I can get one on ebay pretty easily.

    /edit

    For what it is worth, HU is Alpine CDA-9887

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