ric

well i taught about it due to a box designed for large theaters, they use subs in this type of design, they say the design help the sound be loud and large, filling a very big room, but still helps control the sub and produce accurate tunes to make you feel like everythings real. do we have a calculator found online for this type of design? i dont know or cant find it...

can the single of a L-ported box be divided into two? instead of one port on one side and the sub on the otherside, it will look like ports on both end of the box with the sub in the center? if its possible, is there a calculator online for that? thanks...

any comments about the plan?

thanks john... but... 1. mono amp dosent look the same as the 4ch amp. mono should be the SAZ1500 if ill go with the sundown 2. 4ch amp is refurbished. i dont know but in a little sceptical/afraid of refurbished items...

it just that i like the cleaner look of a 1 brand amp setup on the trunk, it looks proportioned. specially if ill join shows. but offcourse, quality should also be there... and not to mention budget is also limited so im off to these 3 brands... if i just have all the funds, this would not be an issue... ohh well... BTW: nothing goes more than $700xx

any updates?

thanks bigjon... hmmm, i just hope there not the case as for the HD... otherwise i might end up getting 2nd hand legasias or 2nd hand fokal K3p's...

so CDT's are good sounding but not durable? x-over are not good? cant be fed with hi wattage amps? are these correct?

BTW: 94sundace, would you be refering to the old amps or the new ones?

tnx bro. SS=1 PPI=0 BA=0

sorry caligreen but my question is not about how should i go about my install but simply which is the better combo? all sub amps can go 1500W in 2ohms and all 4ch amp give out around 120watts per channel. but w/c one is more durable? w/c has a better crossover network? w/c has better internal parts resulting to better / cleaner output? if we would regard to them as b4, letsay late 90's, PPI with their atr series is the way to go. 2nd would be a fight bet. the bostons and the SS with the rubicons. but as of now, with all company changes, management, mergings etc? w/c would still be up there? all 3 brands after 2000 became quiet? what happend?

thanks alot guys... this will be used for a bit loud but SQ setup...

most probably the default settings are tuned incorrect... and i agree, go with what your ears tell you...go tune with what ever makes you smile...

tons of audio gurus, countless numbers knowledge based material and information... so im here... i want to learn........ :bigclap:

BTW: does anybody know of a car built for SQ that uses the SAX100.4? if ever can you give me a link? i just wanna see the install and possible equipments used.

Im currently checking out amplifiers to be used on an SQ setup in a sedan. Currently looking for good sounding amplifiers that have tremendous flexibilities on its crossover network. As of now all I have seen perfect would be from brand names such as DLS namely the ultimates and Audison namely the LRx. Are these the only options available with those requirements? i find it hard to look for amps with the same crossover functionality like those 2 that can do an active setup. Any other recomendations? Hoping to get feedback possibly that would not go over the said prices of the amps. Possible even cheaper than those two. The lower the price with the same quality and spec would be better. Thanks alot.

just to clarify... based on everything in here, it seems that everything will boil down to the install, so does that mean that any amplifier will do as long as the install is correct and that simply is where my focus should be... INSTALL?

thank you so much M5, i am really learning alot from you... just a pop up... whats a gain block? is it something that increases the output voltage of an HU lets say 4V preout to a 8V or higher? somethinmg that most SPL competitors used?

ok, well these are the options that i only have due to box size limitations. if i buy the 15", i can only go for a sealed box. ported will be to big or will simply eat all of my trunk space. but with a sealed 15, i can get all the low's and still play loud, but with a 12 i could have a faster sound for fast transients... so im really not sure on which would actually be better...

additional flexibility when needed i guess. i think its better to have something more when needed then not have nothing to spare... thanks alot for the inputs guys. based on all of the responses, i would really need to work hand in hand with the installer...

Hopefully you'll be running those speakers active then.. I don't know a whole lot of guys that use or win with passive component sets. that is correct! and thats why im really considering this because of the flexibility of the xover, just like the DLS and Audison. Independent xovers on the channels. not to mention this is alot cheaper... hehehe! thats why im really looking at this.

not relly on the same car and wirings but speakers and HU are the same. Im simply basing it from the learnings and experiences i got from Home Audio. Just not sure dude if it really dosent apply anymore to car audio. im guessing that the differences i got from the sound would be from the slopes used in the amps mention, namely 12db on the DLS and i think 18db on the audison... assuming that 12db crossover solpe tends to gove a warmer sound or have mo mids and lower end on it...? A difference of 6dB on the slope will simply let more of the audio you are trying to remove into the speakers. It shouldn't discolor the sound to the point where things sound "warmer". That sounds more like something in the converters is messing around with the sound. Hmmm. thanks alot for that, good point!... i guess after of of this, all im just after is possiblly getting the best possible score in an SQ competition. and i just simply want to be sure that this is something that can be used for a winning piece... otherwise i might look into something else like the ones i mentioned above. i might be going by the way with a focal 3way , a DLS 3way or a morel 3way in case your wanderring...

If your goals are as you state, you should separate the crossovers from the amplifiers as none of them will truly be flexible enough. Obviously they are exceptions where companies lump a high end processing unit with the amplifier like the Zapco's, but the rest are not really flexible enough. First off, I'd cross off all amps that don't have time alignment and independent left right equalizers. i think i would simply be using the time alignment and independent left right equalizers of the HU... might be going with an Alpine 9887 or something...

not relly on the same car and wirings but speakers and HU are the same. Im simply basing it from the learnings and experiences i got from Home Audio. Just not sure dude if it really dosent apply anymore to car audio. im guessing that the differences i got from the sound would be from the slopes used in the amps mention, namely 12db on the DLS and i think 18db on the audison... assuming that 12db crossover solpe tends to gove a warmer sound or have mo mids and lower end on it...?

counld you elaborate on this more vladd to help enlighten me? i just want to understand... as far as what i have experienced, the DLS amps tends to sound warmer compared to the audison on the same speakers i heard. focal V1. but the audison tends to give out a more detailed top end?