ibanender

That must be why in drop in tests, SA's are significantly louder, stay together, and sound better. Thanks for clearing that up.

Not everybody documents everything they touch in their cars. Furthermore, 2 of them in particular are friends of mine who doesn't post on forums, or take pics of his install to show the nobody he tells about it. One of them swapped 1 amp, one of them swapped 6 amps. Ask around for people who have swapped and they'll tell you. http://****/forum/showthread.php?t=5340 That's an old thread, but going from the 1500 to a 2000 gained 0.7 and from a 2000 to a 3000 gained 0.8. The 2500 is actually close to the 3000 board. Even testing right there would be 1.5 dB. I am asking around, I posted here didn't I? I just think there are too many factors to say how many decibels you will see. Even if it is a rough estimate. I just like to at least see pics and/or videos of things like this before I believe it. It's like the three Lamborghini's I own, I just can't show you pics or any proof of them existing but I totally have them. The only factor that would prevent you from doing that is lower voltage, which probably isn't going to be insanely drastically different from anybody elses drop. Again, all those "factors" would be between vehicles, these are people swapping amps and thats it. All the potential variables are constant because of the control group.

Skar 12 has a much lower Fs, lower motor force, triple stack vs double stack, different inductance, looser suspension, and isn't as loud. So no, they aren't "almost identical".

That's not a full range amp, so it would sound terrible.

What's your idea of "low end" you're missing? Like, are there certain tracks that lack? A known frequency range? I think what you're after is gonna require taking up more space. An EQ isn't the answer to gain frequency bandwidth. Generally speaking, if you gotta add/cut more than 3 dB, you have an overall problem that should be addressed with the installation or equipment.

Based on the original post, I thought you were running 2 subs only, because why would you run 2 subs different from the other 2..... 4 subs you'd be fine.

Not everybody documents everything they touch in their cars. Furthermore, 2 of them in particular are friends of mine who doesn't post on forums, or take pics of his install to show the nobody he tells about it. One of them swapped 1 amp, one of them swapped 6 amps. Ask around for people who have swapped and they'll tell you. http://****/forum/showthread.php?t=5340 That's an old thread, but going from the 1500 to a 2000 gained 0.7 and from a 2000 to a 3000 gained 0.8. The 2500 is actually close to the 3000 board. Even testing right there would be 1.5 dB.

No matter how you cut it, running that amp @ 1 ohm is too much for all of those subs.

3500/14.2= 247 amps Too bad amps aren't 100% efficient. Even going by those numbers, at 70% efficiency that comes out to 300 amps. Holy schnikes, the manual says a 300 amp fuse!!! They ARE however capable of much more draw.

You're forgetting something.... That Autotek 2000 watt, wasn't doing 2000 watts to start with. You may not be informed, but people that swap out SAZ-2000d's to SAZ-2500d's commonly gain around 1.5 dB. So, swapping to that Autotek to the SAZ-2500d I can see up to a 2 dB gain.

Raptor wire isn't bad, but it does have thick insulation. It's quite flexible (not as much as say Stinger Uberflex) and OFC.

There's a lot to be said for buying from a local dealer. You have a problem with it, you take it back, might even get a new product swap right then. From an unauthorized internet dealer, you might be screwed all together or best case scenario you pay shipping and wait a couple weeks to get it back. If you need it professionally installed, they'll take better care of you and possibly discount labor for buying product from them. Price of equipment wise, there is soooooo much crap out there because the market was driven that way by people who won't buy anything locally unless it's stupid cheap which drives away the market for good equipment. Back in the day people were proud to pay $1/watt for amps. Are there good dealers and bad dealers? Absolutely. They get that way because they'll hire anybody who can stand there and talk, because the truely capable people want more money which they can't get because distributors are selling product for less than THEIR cost. You can't get quality people without making money. 4 shops here have gone under because of ebay. A friend of mine dropped Kicker because he couldn't sell it because of internet pricing. The only remaining shop anywhere near me worth a damn is still around because they only carry mid and high end product, do VERY good work, and take care of their customers. You won't find cheap anything there, but they deliver a premium you can't get from the internet.

What about a SAX-100.4 and bi-amping the components?

It's much easier to pass the linear limits than thermal limits, so long as you're using clean power, that's what I'm after. Hell, I could make the 1st gen Mach 5 IXL go past xmax with just 250 watts in the box I was using. Granted, I knew I was just using a bridged 4 channel for the subs so I built the box accordingly. But that's not always the case. If you can physically max it out on 250 watts, the box is too big or tuned too high. If you use a small box, you can thermal it before you reach mechanical limits. THAT is the point I was making. Not every box is yours.

There are some big things being overlooked here. 1/0 will be fine for such a short run, and the amp takes 1/0 in anyway. Then there's the fact that a single battery isn't enough for a 3500, or 4500. You need at least 2 decent batteries for a 3500 and 3 decent or 2 excellent batteries for a 4500. Then there is your alternator situation......

It greatly depends on the size of the box anyways. So they are infinitely capable of thermal handling?

Thank you for your professional response. Everything is very clear. We have not extended production "Boss" on the following characteristics are interested in a lot of my friends. http://sundownaudio.ru/produktciya-sundown-audio/subwoofers/sa-series-12.html

If he's got his mind set, it doesn't matter what he drives. Do it right or do it wrong, they'll do it anyway.

My guess is that is not a good sub. Look harder, it has 8 mm of xmax. Aside from that I'm sure the 96 dB sensitivity isn't 1w/1m, its 2.83v. If the rating is 2.83v @ 2 ohms (coils in parallel) then the actual 1w/1m sensitivity is 90 dB, average for an ordinary 12. Also, 1150 RMS is probably a stretch on a $65 sub. A coil that will take that much power in that basket will probably cost $20 itself.

Correction, NSv2's are out of stock. They have many Zv2 motors in stock at Sundown.

If you're gonna do 6 cubes, you may as well go ported, like SA's, that will work in that space.

If he wants it to sound good, I wouldn't recommend either of those. They aren't known for their quality.

BL is a solid sub, Z's are out of stock, SA's WILL NOT take 1600 watts per driver. Incriminator Audio Death Penalty's would do the trick as well. Subs are only a 1 note wonder if you make them that way.

Just curious, have you ever used one, or even had one in front of you? i had both jacob i love sundown im using the skars now and the sundowns in my altima I wouldn't exactly say Skar's will "want more" at 700-800 watts. They'll be content.

I'll be there with the Sundown and Stereo Integrity crew.