starvingf150

I don't have a box built at all. I'm looking for advice on what design to build, overall. That's including volume, port area and tuning, etc. My old box was 2.5cuft at 35Hz slot ported and loved it. Don't remember the port area on that though. Overall size limit for this build would be below glass. Hence the moving it in and out often. So 48" wide, 24" tall, and 36" deep. So 24 cu ft before port and sub displacement, right?

I have a Dodge Journey that I want to put 2 SX 12s in. (By the way, only have one right now, need another. Put the word out, D2) I want to have the 'right' box for it. Not one that a experienced builder can demo and know quickly that it's a crap build. I have been reading the available threads on what makes a vented box a 'good' vented box. But to honest, it seems pretty complicated. I am not a fluid dynamics student. But I am trying to learn. It is hard to narrow down my music style. It's 50/50 between hard rock like Metallica and such, and also rap/hip-hop. I know that doesn't make it easy. It will be running on a solid 2300wrms. I have the whole back available for the build, but if it possible to be not so bulky, that'd be great. I will have to take it in and out often as its a company car. Lol. I am willing to make sacrifices either way. I built a slot ported box from the site RE Audio has, a few years ago. It was tuned to 35Hz with 1 SX 12 on 600wrms and I liked it. But isn't that a generic build? Can I get better results by digging in deeper with design advice? Thanks for all your help in advance.

I agree its a lot of back and forth. Can it be made easier to understand for say people who aren't studying fluid dynamics? Ha. I'd really like to build a properly designed vented box myself very soon. This thread makes me think that I haven't ever experienced that type of enclosure before, which makes me excited for what could be in store. Maybe a night and day difference between proper and improper? So any help on simplifying how to design one would be great. Maybe asking for too much here. Ha. ----- I.E. How do you know the right amount of port area? What is 'the' tuning frequency that's preferred? Dependent on power, vehicle, etc? ----- Anyone willing to put together a comprehensive guide? Thanks.

Ok good deal. Well i do have a decent understanding of electronics and whatnot. Design/modeling software, not so much. Electronic tools consist of a multimeter for me. But if a car can't be modeled from one to another, and regarding a website database for this type of thing, how does an 'off the shelf' passive set sound good from one car to another? How does the manufacturer overcome this for customer satisfaction? So most people are limited to 'off the shelf', until they have all the tools and knowledge to build a solid passive or active set? No way really to experience it without that?

I do have an Alpine 45x4 amp already. I was going to bridge it for the orignal idea. But if you think active is better, then i do have the channels for it. I just dont know where to start on how to create a great active set up. Are there any similar resources like Zaph, but for car audio instead of home audio? Still nonetheless, why couldn't I create or 'someone' with the proper design, build a better DIY passive set than what you could get off the shelf on retail? I would think there is a lot of margin in the sets retail and also yet, a big difference in the parts dollar per dollar, retail to DIY. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info guys! Well if I buy pre-fab from a car audio company, seems anything worthwhile with quality components (namely in the x-over) and output is out of my price range. And since they are still passive, figured I could build my own passive set up with great parts for much cheaper... My range is $200-300 complete. Run 150 to 200wrms to each door (mid and tweet). If you say active, can you point in the right direction of some solid reading material to inform me of a good choice? There are threads and such, but want to make sure its the right info. I have a feeling that active would prob be out of my price range as well. Thanks again. If this is now getting too off topic, can it be moved? Don't want to cause any issue in the HT section.

Thanks for the reply. I was meaning like a MDF base with an upright face to mount the speakers to. Like a bookshelf cabinet with only the bottom and face.. Just to get some sound of the highs/mids and whatnot. Then adjust if necessary. I am not a huge audiophile by any sort. Is it that precise for a 2way setup primarily used for car audio in the x-over design? Crazy. (Noob) I was thinking off the shelf was cool.. Just wanted something that would be pretty musical and loud. To keep up nicely with a 12" on 1kW. I'll read up on that article btw. Thanks. It would be much easier on me with a 6.5" mid and .75"-1" tweet btw.

I want to build a 2way setup from Parts Express. I was thinking part # 290-307 Goldwood 6.5" and # 264-1006 Vifa 3/4" I was going to use one of their Dayton pre assembled x-overs at 2k Hz. It has poly caps and such, good choice? Its easy for sure. I wanted to build a IB stand for in home listening and then if they sound good put them in my car. I also need to find an amp for in home 4 ohm use, unless I'm not thinking of another way of powering them? Series, add something to the x-over, etc.. Thanks for all input. Greatly appreciated.! Ben