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rk772

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Posts posted by rk772

  1. Posted

    Custom Cherryman box, 1.6 ft3, tuned at 34, wired at 1ohm  

    I'm deciding between a new IA10.1 for $390 or a gently used SAZ 1500D V3 for $360. I know the SAZ is under rated but I cand find any bench test results on the IA10.1. 

    Im imagine the 300 RMS between the two amps cannot be heard by the human ear. Would there be any difference in SQ between the 2 amps?

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  2. Posted

    15 hours ago, CrazyKenKid said:

    Morning RK,


    If you would like to try/have an JL Audio Clean sweep I have one of those you can have.

    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qvIxLKXiJNc/p_136441DSP/JL-Audio-CL441dsp-CleanSweep.html

    I was going to use it to integrate with my Ford escape so I could retain my steeringwheel controls and sync functions also. Long story short I ended up just installing a double din head unit. 

     

    I don't mind giving it away as when I was younger car audio peaked my interest and from it I learned all about electrical, like power, AC/DC watts, ohm (resistance), capacity (batteries and caps) and now Im a system integrator all because of car audio! so I wouldn't mind helping out!  

     

    if you would like it drop me a PM w/ your address and I will send it out soon

    Thank you. I sent you a PM

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  3. Posted

    I haven't built a system since 2009. I had 2 Fi BTL 15's in a pound that sound box, powered by a SAZ 3000D. Well, my kid is becoming a bass head and is wanting to build a system in his car. I suggested him helping me build one in my car first so that he can learn more about it and see what he really wants before spending his money. I'm planning on putting an SSA ICON 10 with an SAE 1000D or maybe a 1500D , all in the trunk of my 2017 Mustang GT. Im going more for sound quality than SPL this time around. My car came with the sync and navigation package. I want to keep my dashboard stock  but obviously don't have any RCA outs on the stock navigation/radio unit. It was suggested that I wire one of these from the rear factory speaker wires in my trunk. 

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2IB/AudioControl-LC2iB-Black.html

     

    evidently you can run your amps switched power blue wire to this box as well. My question is, am I giving up SQ by wiring a system like this, vs having a head unit with dedicated RCA outs? What other negatives are there when using this converter off the rear speaker signals?

    thanks

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  6. Posted

    I actually just found it on their website:

    Need incredible Xmax to feed your 160dB at 20Hz obsession? Add our extended length coils (28mm of Xmax). With over dozens of different option combinations to choose from, we can build the exact sub you need to fuel your SPL fire.

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  11. Posted · Edited by rk772

    Here are a few vids I shot today

    I know this song is played out but it hits so damn hard

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    My Kids being silly. This was the 2nd time they heard the new setup. I wish I had gotten the 1st on video. It was priceless watching them scream. They were ready for it this time though.

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  15. Posted

    Thanks to the Sundown folks for answering all my stupid "rookie" install questions. This was my first install and I did everything but build the box. My emails were all answered within 20 minutes or less. GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE.

    Those Nightshades are going to rip my little CRV apart. Here is the finished product. (Well almost. I haven't gotten the 100.4 hooked up yet)

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  16. Posted

    I have a pair of bolts for each sub. I guess another way to do it would be to go from a + and - on the amp to the + and - on the left sub. Then from the other + and - on the amp to the + and - on the right sub. Then wire the empty + and - on the left sub together and do the same for the right sub. Does that make sense?

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  17. Posted · Edited by rk772

    You can just use on of the +'s and one -

    You see on the diagram how there is one positive and one negative that go into the amp? That one positive can go into either positive on the amp. And the Negative can go into either negative on the amp.

    Yea, I'm just using 1+ and 1- from the amp

    What I'm talking about is: do I run 2+ wires from the +bolt inside the box (1 to each sub+) and 2- wires from the -bolt inside the box (1 to each sub-) ?

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  18. Posted

    Wire EXACTLY how you see it and it's right.

    Remember the SAZ-3000 has looks like it has 2 places for a +/- but the "two" +'s are a solid piece of metal that just have to slots. Same with the -'s.

    Make sense?

    I was just making sure that running 2 positive wires and 2 negative wires from the inside of the respective bolts was the best way to do it.

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  19. Posted

    2_1ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

    1 Saz-3000D

    2 Nightshades 15 D1

    Wired for 1ohm

    All 8 gauge with a + and - Bolt in the box

    From 1+ terminal on amp to + bolt

    From 1- terminal on amp to - bolt

    1+ wire from inside bolt to + on left sub

    another + wire from inside bolt to + on right sub

    1- wire from inside bold to - on left sub

    another - wire from inside bolt to - on right sub

    Left sub: + to -

    right sub: + to -

    It looks just like the diagram but I'm a little OCD and feel the need to triple check everything

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  20. Posted · Edited by rk772

    Where do you live? I'm up in Kingwood by Intercontinental. I'm in the middle of a build right now. I should be done by next week. Let me know if you'd like to take a look at my ride for some ideas. rob0772@yahoo.com

    2003 Honda CRV

    1 Sundown SAZ-3000D

    2 Sundown Nightshade 15"D1

    Custom box 6cuft; 34Hz

    1 Sundown SAZ-100.4

    CDT 6.5 component w/4 CDT tweets

    Powermaster D5100 under the hood

    Powermaster D3100 in the back

    DC Power 290amp HO alternator

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  21. Posted

    I've had a few people throw them out... they are in the bubble wrap to the right of the cosmetic carton.

    Has the remote, remote control wire, spare fuses, and mounting screws in a little bag.

    I bought the 3000 and 100.4 and The onlyl things wrapped up in the bubble wrap were the remote and remote wire. Are you talking about mounting screws for the amp or for the remote?

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  24. Posted · Edited by rk772

    I can only comment on the customer service at www.dcpowerinc.com. Its pretty much like dealing with Jacob at Sundown. Rob is the owner and you can talk to him directly at the number on their website. He talked me through a couple of problems I was having installing my MLA module I bought with my 250a alt while he was driving his kids home from school, now thats customer service !!!

    I have no experience with the other vendors so I can't comment on their service. but you won't be sorry with DC Power.

    I was initially going to get an Iraggi but have read several negative reviews on other forums. When I send him an email, it takes several days for a return.

    Customer service is one of my top concerns. I called DC today and Dave answered on the first ring. After talking for a while, I ended up ordering a 260 amp alternator. He said it should ship in about a week. It's gonna be pushing these bad-boys through two powermaster batteries:

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