dubbreak

For products email him at sales@mach5audio.com. Yeah I saw that previously, but I was asking if Mach5 will still exist as Mach5 and will be still producing product. I'm sure Mark has plenty of old stock, but will he be making new stock? Will it be the same stuff. What ever happened to that 0 compression build?

So anyone have any info from Mark on what's up? Will the products still exist in some form or another?

Look at the FR and harmonic distortion and decide for yourself. Nearly no breakup. 3rd order harmonic distortion isn't the best but it's pretty good (and it drops above 2k). 2500hz is probably the best match for a decent tweeter, but you could easily run them higher imho.

Judging by the graphs alone you'd have to be running those pretty far off axis to notice the top end droop. Actually for a 1" tweeter they look pretty decent as far as off axis response goes. 30 degrees looks fine (little bit of a droop but it's above 10K). 60 looks like it'd be noticeably missing some top end sparkle, but that's pretty far off axis. Some cheap tweeters have a lift in their top end to compensate for being used off axis. Of course you wouldn't want to run those on axis without addressing the topend lift. I have some cheap peerless that do that.

Don't run two tweeters in a door! The tweeters are more efficient than the mids, they will get plenty loud and running multiple per side will ruin your imaging. It will sound better with one tweeter per side. 2 is a waste of money and completely useless. Though if there is a discount on 4+ then buying 4 isn't a bad idea (just in case you blow one up).

Best bang for your buck on a tweeter is gonna be the Vifa DQ25SC. You'd have to pay a lot more for a tweeter that can match that one. Plus it's a nice small neo motor (could even do sail panels with them). If you can actively cross LR4 (24db/octave slope) you could cross them as low as 2000hz. 2400-2500 would be safer and since the MLI has nice smooth response you should be able to get it to cross that high easy. The vifa xt25 is popular with the SQ crowd. It's a decent price. A really nice tweeter, but it has to be crossed a bit higher than the cheaper one I linked to and the ring radiator style is tempting for people that like to poke. The Seas 27tff is also popular (nice small size and can cross pretty low). The form factor is really nice for car audio. There is a metal cone version as well. 27TAF or something. Check out Zaph's tweeter mishmash for some decent reviews on tweeters. The compare tool lets you check out frequency response and distortion measurements. Since he performs all the measurements the same they are actually comparable to each other (unlike graphs from the manufacturers).

4 sets of components per door will ruin your imaging. Period. Plus it makes no sense from a sensitivity persective. Having one set of components and 2x8" makes a lot more sense. Not only will all those tweeters have major combing issues, so will the mids and you'll get horribly lobing. NIce for show but not so good for listening to IMHO. Actually I don't like the show aspect either. Unless you are shooting for "OMG LUK @ TEH SPEAKERZ!" Even if you are going to a SPL build (not sq or ""SQL"") it stil doesn't make sense running multiple component sets. If one tweeter per side isn't enough (i.e. you are blowing tweeters), then you are either crossing them too low or you need different tweeter. There are compression drivers that are 110db efficient (1W/1M) and can handle 100W rms when crossed at 1200hz (more if crossed higher). Those should keep up with any sub stage you have.

I don't even see the point in running them with components as well. They are mids. Get some good tweets and cross them actively with your 4 channel. Definitely do not do 2 pairs components per door. You'll have horrible imaging. Running two sets of tweeters in one door is a bad idea (guaranteed to get comb filtering). You can get away with multiple mids depending on how low they are crossed and how close they are to each other. I'd go: -decent tweets 2500hz up (i.e. high passed), maybe some Seas tweeters, there are some affordable Vifa that would do the job nicely as well -Mach 5 MLI 60hz-2500hz (i.e. band passed, aka high passed at 60 and low passed at 2500) -subs low passed at 60. If you insist on going with 5.25 components then: -high pass comonents 500hz -mach5 mli 60-500hz (band passed) -subs 60hz low pass Those are just some starting suggested values. I don't think you'd want to run the MLI down to 40hz. Better to let the subs take care of that. You may want to run the MLIs as high as 80hz on the high pass portion of the bandpass. You'll have to play with them to see.

What's your system? What are you running for tweeters? What are you running for subs? What are you crossing your current speakers at?

I can think a few reasons: 1. Wanting to "get all you can out of your amp" , even if you don't actually use it, if you wanted to crank it that far you could (mechanical limits not being a factor) 2. People who think the speaker "sees" 3000W when it's hooked up to an amp that produces 3000W at Xohms. I've seen this a lot. I have even heard stories of car audio reps thinking this. They think an amp will always put out its rated power even with no signal. So of course you need a sub rated for that power. I wonder how these people explain gain... 3. Similar to above, thinking that the power rating on a sub or combination of subs must match your amp rating. With class d amps the last thing you want to do is drive them into clipping. You want head room. When a class d clips it creates a lot of high order odd harmonics (bad sounding harmonic distortion, as opposed to the "nice" sounding low even order harmonics tube amps are known for). An amp that produces a really clean signal unclipped suddenly creates lots and lots of distortion. Luckily this won't wreck a sub (as long as thermal and mechanical handling isn't exceeded.. which is possible as clipping increases the amount of power..), but it definitely is good for the SQ. Another thing I rarely see take into consideration is speaker efficiency. How loud you can go is a combination of power handling and efficiency. Who cares if you sub can handle 2000W if the sensitivity is rated at 80db.. gimme a 87db sub that can handle 1000W and everything else being equal I'll get louder with less power, less wire, less alt, less batt etc.

If your looking at running that much power why not look into the SPL line from Mach 5? Yeah, it seems like the goal is volume, so a little loss in extension for volume and power handling seems like a good tradeoff. Going by thermal power handling throws up red flags to me.. depending on the box alignment you are most likely gonna hit mech limits before you hit thermal (with music at least). You can model that if you have an idea what way you are going with the box (size and tuning).... If you plan on tuning high and burping with tones or something similar (i.e. definitely running into thermal limits before mech) then an SPL oriented sub makes more sense imho. If you are going for SQ, get the ixl and don't go crazy with the gains. Headroom is a good thing (the amp will be operating at low distortion and not heating up if you aren't pushing it to the limits).

When did this happen? It looks like the website was just updated recently. Any chance there are some of the 'old' model ixl 10.2.2 and 12.2.2 with the lower FS kicking around to be purchased? With my application sealed is a lot easier (yes the recommended ported sizes are small, but you still have to get a port in there). I can't do 2.5cubes so the 15.2.2 is out of the question.

Yeah. If you haven't ordered any yet then be patient for the new VC configs. You want to get the most possible out of your amp I'm assuming (run it at 1ohm), and there is no way to do that with the current ones, so hold tight. Not sure if Mark has an eta on them, but I'm sure they'll be well worth the wait.

What? Amps don't get "wired to 1 ohm".. they see whatever load you have attached. If you have two ixl 12s (dual 2 ohm VC) and have both wired in parallel to the amp, then yeah it's seeing a 1/2 ohm load. The amp is what you have to worry about. iirc that amp can do 1/2 ohm (bet it's getting hot) but it voids the warranty. You should wire each of the subs VC in series so they are both 4ohm and run those in parallel to the amp so it sees 2ohms. You won't get as much power, but you won't void your warranty and the amp will last longer.

I'm in BC. So ordering from SSA probably isn't the most cost effective way to get my hands on an IXL..

Cool. Thanks for the update Mark. I'll be watching for updates. I'm itching to get a 12.2.2.

Is it next week yet?

All prices are in US Dollars Damn, quite true. I have no idea why I thought that now that it looks like they ship from texas. Maybe I was thinking css or somewhere else. Solen only seems to have pricey plate amps right now. Good company though (Solen), I've ordered from them and they were quick and helpful even though my order was pretty small.

Check out O Audio for plate amps. The HTR for an amp is a nono (won't handle the impedance and how are you going to cross it?). A proper sub plate amp is probably cheaper than the alternative of running a pro-audio type amp and an x-over (though you could possibly do w/o the xover if you are using the sub out on your receiver). http://www.oaudio.com/ The 300W is only $159 and the 500W is 229CAN. If you are in the states also check out parts-express. Sub plate amps often go on sale there. With any of the plate amps you'll have to run the voice coils in series. I haven't seen a plate amp that can do 1ohm yet.

That's pretty much all the mach5 website lists (IXLs are now all dual 2ohm and SPLs are all dual 2 ohm). The MJ 18Ms are single 4 ohm though.

How do you protect them from the elements and run them IB through the floor? Why not just box em through the floor? The ixl 10's don't need much space and you can get a more gradual rolloff with a sealed box than IB. Just curious why IB is a requirement. I can see running bigger drivers IB (ixl 15 or 18) due to the box requirements, but I can't wrap my head around why you would want to IB the 10s. They don't have a lot of cone area, with their fairly low qts they will roll off fairly quickly (can't remember off my head the qts of the 10s, though the 15 and 18 seemed to model well IB) and it will dramatically reduce the power handling as they will reach mechanical limitations quickly.

Funky Pup clones ?? Nice.. screw the cake mix and ship each of those with a box of Kraft Dinner.